FW
Pure London was held from July 22 to 24. The event welcomed thousands of buyers and influencers, new sectors and new brands, inspiring speakers and leading change-makers mulling the future and how to make it sustainable, circular and inclusive top of the agenda. Topics included diversity, body shape, ethics and environmental issues. One was on how brands can be more representative of society and the role they play in changing people’s perspectives on body image and the beauty standard.
A huge increase in brands with an ethical standpoint and environmentally-made collections exhibited this season as part of the new Pure Conscious section, demonstrating the pace of growth and interest in this sector as it drives to become the norm. Future trends by WGSN were brought to life on the catwalk with a special appearance from Graduate Fashion Week winners and graduates. Pure London invited everyone to adopt one of five simple pledges: Get Dirty, Turn It Down, Pass It On, Ethicool, and Actually I Can to advance the UN’s Global Goal 12 for responsible consumption and production.
Pure London is the UK’s leading trade fashion buying event, representing women’s wear, men’s wear, footwear, accessories and young fashion. The show offers buyers from department stores, etailers and mail order the opportunity to discover collections launching for the season ahead.
Australian brand Toorallie, is emerging as one of the bright stars of Australia's wool industry and it is the younger consumers who are propelling its growth. Run by two identical twins Simon and Steve Smith, Toorallie is well aware of this emerging market.
The brand flourished for a decade — making colorful, bulky knit jumpers and classical knitwear. But by 2004, cheap Chinese clothes were flooding the Australian market. Sales of woollen clothing had stagnated. Fashion, ever fickle, had moved on. The business collapsed under a mountain of debt. But Steve and Simon Smith had devoted their prime years to the brand and never considered walking away.
The brothers brokered a business partnership with Peter Small, a veteran woolgrower who had spent decades processing Australian wool into fine yarn. Small became a co-owner with two other silent partners and the re-born Toorallie has gradually gone from strength to strength.
The company now supplies more than 250 retail outlets in Australian and New Zealand markets. All its fleeces are sourced from Pooginook, a famed wool growing property near Jerilderie in southern New South Wales. The Smith brothers are excited about the growth prospects for Merino clothing, domestically and in emerging markets such as the Asian middle class.
A recent research from ‘YouGov Omnibu’ indicates that 46 percent of U.S. consumers prefer comfort over style and cost when buying a pair of jeans. Around 56 percent of Americans have at least one pair of jeans that no longer fit. While one in 10 consumers reported having just one pair of non-fitting jeans in their closet, while 17 percent reported owning two pairs that don’t fit.
Meanwhile, 8 percent said they have six or more pairs of jeans in their closet that don’t fit them. According to the report, around 46 per cent of women, despite services like personal shopping and fit guides and wider availability to brands with inclusive sizing, do not know their size when they step into a store. As against this, only 24 percent of the men do not know their sizes.
Of the women surveyed, 63 percent are not confident about finding the right size when shopping at an online retailer for the first time, compared to 43 percent of men. Around 81 percent of Americans are “very” or “somewhat” confident that they will know the clothing size that will fit them best from somewhere they’ve shopped before.
The special package for India’s textile and garment sector, launched in June 2016 and hailed by many as a potent tool for creation of decent jobs, has met with limited success.
Just .265 million workers have till date enrolled under the Pradhan Mantri Paridhan Rozgar Protsahan Yojana (PMPRPY) for the textile-garment sector. And not all of these are new employments either.
Just 788 units have availed themselves of the benefit so far.
The scheme’s objective was very ambitious: to achieve a cumulative increase of 30 billion dollars in export of textiles and garments and Rs 74,000 crores ($US 10.79 billion) of investments in the employment-intensive sector over three years. The package for the sector included making EPF optional for employees earning less than Rs 15,000 ( $US 219) per month.
While the PMPRPY for the textile sector has had only some success, the PMRPY, aimed at accelerating job creation in the formal sector, has done relatively better as 75,753 units have availed themselves of the benefits of the scheme and the number of beneficiaries (workers) stood at 608.1 million.
Under the scheme launched in August 2016, the government is obliged to pay the entire employee pension scheme (EPS) component of the employer’s EPF contribution for workers with a salary up to Rs 15,000 ( $US 219) per month for the first three years of their employment.
Mexican and Canadian officials are optimistic of clinching the NAFTA trade deal with the U.S. in the next several months even amid sticking points on car production, an automatic expiration clause and President Donald Trump’s threats to impose tariffs on foreign vehicles.
The nations will try to work an agreement before U.S. mid-term elections in early November. Some of these negotiations will result in meetings between the two nations. While the U.S. has expressed a preference for bilateral deals, Mexico and Canada remain committed to a trilateral agreement.
Many of Trump’s senior economic advisers expect him to impose a 25 percent tariff on about $200 billion in foreign-made automobiles later this year. Canada has termed this as absurd and expressed its confidence that US will follow common sense and refrain from imposing these tariffs.
Archroma has a unique combination of technologies for denim effects and colors, from fiber to finish, from the authentic roots of indigo to the most innovative and eco-advanced solutions.
Denisol is a newly developed pre-reduced liquid indigo solution. It is compliant with major official eco-standards and requirements from retailers, brands and fashion leading companies and helps to produce fabrics suitable for current eco-labeling such as bluesign and GOTS. Denisol is a non-toxic alternative to dyes that are used for the iconic and traditional indigo blue that consumers associate with denim and jeans.
Archroma is a global leader in color and specialty chemicals. Its coatings and washing solutions are aimed at bringing denim creativity to a whole new dimension. The company’s advanced denim dyeing technology allows savings of up to 92 per cent in water, 87 per cent in cotton waste and 30 per cent in energy compared to a conventional denim dyeing process. The technology has been adopted by brands like Patagonia.
Diresul RDT Ocean Blues is a collection of vibrant, ocean-themed bright sulfur blue dyes. These best-in-class dyes and their auxiliaries bring out the best of indigo, improve workability, dyeing consistency and process safety.
Archroma’s dye and chemical specialties portfolio allows the creation of exciting colors and effects.
Men’s brands at Liberty Fairs in New York launched their Spring ’19 collections from manufacturers like Parasuco Jeans, John John Denim, Hudon, Neuw Denim and Swonne.
Parasuco Jeans introduced a black velvet denim set for men which gives a brushed effect layered over a deep shade of indigo that seeps through the plush fabric. The brand also offered stretch linen denim in off-white for a lighter look. The brand John John Denim focused on 3-D effects and clear washes in its Spring’19 collection while Hudson’s introduced a new chino denim in an array of relaxed, summery colors in both pants and shorts. For edgier looks, Hudson offered skinny cargo pants in army green and camouflage.
Neuw introduced the Kerouac, its widest fit yet with a 15.25-inch opening while new brand Swonne presented its full range of comfort stretch jeans, button-down shirts and hand-painted dead stock parkas.
Outland Denim, added four new pieces to its tight collection of denim essentials for Spring ’19. Eddie offers a regular straight fit with a slightly wider leg. The Ava, a slightly cropped jean jacket, is Outland’s first jean jacket made specifically for women. The jacket is offered in clear blue, as well as an on-trend patchwork style. The collection also introduces white denim, jean skirts and women’s cuffed shorts.
According to the 2018 Global Lifestyle Monitor, 81 percent of the global respondents preferred cotton over other fibers. Cotton was perceived as most comfortable by around 69 percent, sustainable by 65 percent and longest lasting by 55 percent.
COTTON USA is the label that brands and retailers use to denote that over 50 percent of a product’s material is made from U.S. cotton. A hang tag study conducted in 2016 showed that nearly two-thirds of consumers surveyed would pay more for a product with the COTTON USA hang tag. The 2017 consumer survey also showed that over half of all global consumers associate the COTTON USA trademark with comfort, quality, reliability, a premium brand and trust – leading attributes in purchase decision-making.
Licensees may utilise the COTTON USA mark to highlight U.S. cotton products throughout the supply chain and at retail. Since 1989 the COTTON USA brand has been licensed to over 51,000 product lines representing more than 3.8 billion apparel and home textile products. The licensees span the entire global supply chain from 31 countries.
Pure London was held July 22 to 24. The event welcomed thousands of buyers and influencers, new sectors and new brands, inspiring speakers and leading change-makers mulling the future and how to make it sustainable, circular and inclusive top of the agenda.
Topics included diversity, body shape, ethics and environmental issues. One was on how brands can be more representative of society and the role they play in changing people’s perspectives on body image and the beauty standard.
A huge increase in brands with an ethical standpoint and environmentally-made collections exhibited this season as part of the new Pure Conscious section, demonstrating the pace of growth and interest in this sector as it drives to become the norm. Future trends by WGSN were brought to life on the catwalk with a special appearance from Graduate Fashion Week winners and graduates.
Pure London invited everyone to adopt one of five simple pledges - Get Dirty, Turn It Down, Pass It On, Ethicool, and Actually I Can to advance the UN’s Global Goal 12 for responsible consumption and production.
Pure London is the UK’s leading trade fashion buying event, representing women’s wear, men’s wear, footwear, accessories and young fashion. The show offers buyers from department stores, etailers and mail order the opportunity to discover collections launching for the season ahead.
The next edition of ISPO Munich from February 03-06, 2019 will house the leading textile innovations in the ISPO Textrends Forum. The forum will enable its visitors to easily access new products and innovations that define the season. Awardees at the forum will be automatically included into the seasonal Trend Book with photos of the winning products combined with direct contact info and full descriptions.
The products will be judged by an international jury of textile experts from all aspects of the market in November 2018. The selected products will be awarded Best Product, Top 10 and Selection for each sector, with all awarded a place within the ISPO Textrends forum plus the additional benefit of marketing.
This year, two new areas will be highlighted for the Fall/Winter 20/21 edition at ISPO Textrends. The first of these include the Performance Finishes developed to highlight the development from chemical finishing companies. More brands are looking to using layering technology in their fabrics, and through the latest scientific developments many functional factors can be added to a fabric through finishing.
The second segment to be highlighted includes the Natural Generation that has been incorporated to cater to the growing demand for natural fabrics with performance. Applications to this new sector must have a minimum of 80 per cent natural ingredients as the proprietary fiber.
