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Mahlo GmbH + Co KG will partner with Shanghai Kuantex to showcase its latest systems and solutions for efficient, sustainable, and high-quality textile production and finishing at ITMA Asia 2024 on Oct 14 in Shanghai.

A key theme of Mahlo’s presentation would be production optimisation, with the company continuing its tradition of providing solutions that streamline textile manufacturing, improve efficiency, and reduce waste. The introduction of advanced digitalisation and energy-saving technologies highlights Mahlo's commitment to addressing the needs of a rapidly digitalizing and environmentally conscious industry.

Mahlo will feature its renowned modular process control system, Optipac VMC, alongside the advanced data management platform, mLog Enhanced. These tools are designed to improve monitoring and control throughout various stages of textile production, ensuring consistent quality and operational efficiency.

One of the primary highlights will be Mahlo’s groundbreaking straightening concept for feed-forward control of knitted fabrics with large, fluctuating distortions. The company’s new flagship straightener, the Orthopac RXVMC-20, which was introduced as a prototype last year, has already proven successful in numerous installations worldwide. It delivers reliable results across diverse textile applications. In line with its reputation for innovation, Mahlo will unveil a new development in straightening technology at ITMA Asia. This new technology will be available as both a standalone solution and a retrofit for existing machines, enabling manufacturers to enhance their performance and functionality. As a pivotal platform for the global textile industry, ITMA Asia provides Mahlo with an ideal stage to present its technological innovations to an international audience. Given the significance of Asia in textile manufacturing, the event offers a valuable opportunity for industry professionals to explore the latest trends and forge important business connections.

  

Designer Aarti Vijay Gupta partnered with Liva Reviva to unveil her Spring/Summer 2025 collection, Postcard from Kashmir, at London Fashion Week in September 2024. The collection highlights a seamless blend of sustainable materials and high-fashion design, captivating audiences with its innovative use of eco-friendly fibres.

Crafted from up to 30 per cent recycled textile waste combined with FSC-certified wood pulp, the garments provide a luxurious alternative to traditional viscose while remaining soft and breathable. The collection pays homage to Kashmir's rich cultural heritage, featuring elements like Kashmiri miniatures, Papier Mache art, and Namda embroidery, all modernized through contemporary silhouettes.

The runway presentation showcased fluid drapes and intricate detailing, merging style with sustainability. Both menswear and womenswear designs drew inspiration from Kashmir’s lush landscapes, with striking photo prints taken by Gupta herself, juxtaposing sophisticated dresses and co-ord sets. Notably, Gupta introduced fitted mesh-printed bodycon dresses, marking a departure from her signature oversized silhouettes. The collection’s versatile pieces, characterized by cleaner lines and a subdued color palette, can be effortlessly mixed and matched.

Sree Charan, VP Marketing at Birla Cellulose, highlighted the significance of the collaboration, noting that Aarti Vijay Gupta's ability to combine sustainable materials with modern design perfectly represents Liva’s commitment to creating fashion that is both aesthetically appealing and environmentally conscious.

Aarti Vijay Gupta expressed her excitement about showcasing the Postcard from Kashmir collection using Liva Reviva fibres, describing it as a rewarding experience. The materials effectively captured the essence of Kashmir while adhering to sustainable practices. This collaboration highlights Liva’s dedication to promoting sustainability in the fashion industry, enabling designers to create fashion that is both mindful and visually captivating.

  

Kering has launched the second season of its podcast, “Fashion Our Future,” focused on sustainability and fashion’s evolving landscape. This season, Kering teams up with content creator and author Andrea Cheong, known for promoting ethical fashion and conscious consumerism. Cheong hosts in-depth discussions with grassroots activists and luxury industry innovators, offering insights into the sustainability challenges and opportunities in fashion.

The 15-episode season will focus on five main themes. The opening series, "Crafting Luxury: What Makes It Truly Valuable," now available for streaming, features Valerie Steele from the Fashion Institute of Technology and Bode's Emily Adams Bode Aujla as they explore the intersection of heritage and sustainability. In a London-based episode, Cheong interviews designer Ksenia Schnaider about her brand’s innovative use of upcycling and craftsmanship.

The season launched during London Fashion Week on September 16th, with Cheong and Timothy Chernyaev (@relaxitsonlyfashion) leading a live discussion on whether sustainability conflicts with creativity. Upcoming episodes will address supply chain challenges, eco-influence, and regenerative agriculture, with guests such as Orsola de Castro, Marcelo Gaia, and GosiaPiatek.

New episodes will be released monthly across all audio platforms.

  

Nike has appointed Eliott Hill, Former Senior Executive, as the brand’s new President and CEO. He will replace John Donahee as a part of leadership shakeup to revive Nike’s faltering sales, and fend off rising competition.

With over 32 years of experienceduring his earlier stintat Nike, Hill held several leadership roles across Europe and North America besides playing a pivotal role in growing the company’s revenues to over $39 billion. Before his retirement in 2020, Hill served as president of consumer marketplace, overseeing commercial and market operations for both the Nike and Jordan brands.

To soon step down from his company, Donahoe focused on strengthening Nike’s online presence and driving direct-to-consumer sales during his stint. This strategy helped Nike achieve over $50 billion in annual sales in fiscal 2023. However, recent sales have slowed due to inflation-affected consumers cutting back on discretionary spending, as well as a sluggish recovery in key markets like China.

Nike's growth has also been hindered by a lack of innovative, attention-grabbing products, as competitors such as On, backed by Roger Federer, and Deckers’ Hoka have drawn customers with more trendy and fashionable offerings.

Speculation about a leadership change had been mounting after billionaire investor William Ackman revealed a stake in Nike. While Ackman has not publicly shared his plans for the company, his involvement added to the anticipation of Hill’s appointment as CEO.

  

Calling for a radical overhaul of the country’s taxation system, leaders attending a roundtable conference said, the apparel sector in Bangladesh continues to grapple with reduced government support, shrinking bank finance, and worsening energy crises.

Organised by The Business Standard on Sep 15, the roundtable conference cited procedural complexities as far outweighing the marginal incentives for export sector in the country. Voicing concerns about losing market share to competitors, Fazlee Shamim Ehsan, Executive President, Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA),urged the ‘revolutionary’ new government to introduce business-friendly policies.

Industry leaders also demanded accountability in the financial sector, particularly concerning bad loans. Shams Mahmud, Managing Director, Shasha Denim, criticised the high bank interest rates businesses face due to mismanagement, calling for both those responsible for bad loans and the bank employees who enabled them to be brought to justice.

The event also addressed labor unrest in the apparel sector. Khandoker Rafiqul Islam, President. BGMEA, stated, recent protests in the industry were driven by outsiders rather than workersHe hoped, military and law enforcement support would help resolve the issue.

Abdullah HilRakib, Senior Vice President, BGMEA pointed out, labor leaders often focus on workers’ rights but fail to emphasise their responsibilities, questioning how workers could vandalise factories where they’ve been employed for years.

Showkat Aziz Russell, President, Bangladesh Textile Mills Association (BTMA), urged the government to prioritise restoring law and order, ensuring uninterrupted power and energy supply, and easing access to financing for industries. He also highlighted the failure of the previous government to ensure a reliable energy supply despite raising prices.

MA Jabbar, Managing Director, DBL Group, emphasized on the need for a stable business environment, improved energy supply, and greater support from the new government to achieve Bangladesh’s $100 billion export target.

Warning that power outages were damaging machinery in factories, raising long-term costs, Mahmud urged the government to plan for zero carbon emissions by 2030 to stay competitive in international markets.

  

Inching closer to its target of achieving £1 billion in annual profitNext has raised its profit forecast for FY24 to £995 million, following a 23 percent increase in international sales in the six months to July.

This growth has helped the retailer offset a nearly 1 percent drop in UK sales of Next-branded clothing, with total group sales rising by 8 percent and pre-tax profits growing 7.2 percent to £452 million.

Next attributes the rise in its international sales to the growing convergence of global fashion tastes, fueled by the influence of tech platforms and improved global delivery networks, which make it easier for consumers to explore and purchase clothing from different countries. However, the retailer notes, while international tastes are becoming more aligned, cultural and climatic differences still exist.

Simon Wolfson, CEO, Next, states, more than half of the company’s sales now come from online channels and rapid growth in non-Next brands, which make up 17 percent of overseas sales. The group is expanding its wholly owned labels, such as Cath Kidston and Love & Roses, following the acquisition of these brands.

Next has also been expanding its international presence through partnerships. It has signed a deal with Indian retailer Myntra to develop online and physical stores, and it is strengthening its collaboration with US department store Nordstrom, now offering childrenswear in its stores. The company is also eyeing potential partnerships in Japan, China, and Australia.

To better serve international customers, Next plans to enhance its shipping hubs in the Middle East and Europe. The retailer’s full-price sales rose by 4.4 percent during the six-month period, and better-than-expected performance in the weeks that followed boosted sales by 6.9 percent. The retailer now expects second-half sales to increase by 3.7 percent, up from previous forecasts of 2.5 percent.

  

Kipaş Denim has introduced Contra Denim-a new fabric collection designed to be more compatible with sustainable finishing technologies. This laser- and laundry-friendly range achieves vintage effects and high contrast on denims while minimising environmental impact.

Developed in collaboration with chemical company Archroma, Contra Denim utilizes Archroma’s Denim Halo approach, which incorporates resource-saving pretreatment and dyeing processes to make fabrics easier to wash and laser. The Denim Halo method includes Dirso lRD, a pretreatment applied to dry denim yarn in the first box of the dyeing machine, explained Umberto De Vita, Archroma’s market segment director for denim.

Launched earlier this year, Archroma’s Denim Halo platform significantly reduces the environmental footprint of traditional denim finishing. It also reduces yarn shrinkage and improves garment tensile strength. Denim Halo technologies feature Denisol Pure Indigo 30 LIQ, Diresul Smart denim Blue, and Diresul Evolution Black.

Contra Denim’s vintage aesthetics are achieved using laser marking technology from Spanish firm Jeanologia, eliminating the need for harmful manual processes like hand scraping and potassium permanganate spraying. The collection is available in black and indigo. The Contra Black range earned a low Jeanologia Environmental Impact Measurement (EIM) score of 11 on stone washing, compared to the market standard of 67, highlighting its reduced water and energy consumption, lower chemical impact, and improved worker safety.

  

Hosted on Sep 13, 2024 by Uzbekistan, the inaugural Global Textile Dialogue Forum underscored Uzbekistan’s commitment to elevate its role in the global textile industry.

The forum reinforced Uzbekistan’s dedication to enhancing its position in the global textile market through strategic partnerships, sustainable practices, and continuous innovation. Gathering textile associations from approximately 20 countries, along with diplomatic representatives and over 150 local entrepreneurs, the event demonstrated Uzbekistan’s emerging role on the global textile stage.

Attendees at the forum engaged in discussions on critical industry topics, including value creation in supply chain, the impact of artificial intelligence, production digitisation, challenges and opportunities within the textile sector.

The forum focused on the GIZ funded Social & Labour Convergence Program (SLCP) pilot project that aims to improve working conditions across global supply chains while supporting the sustainable development of Uzbekistan’s textile and garment industries. To be implemented at selected enterprises, this pilot project will benefit from the expertise of two social compliance specialists and will be verified by an SLCP-approved organization. This marks a key step in positioning Uzbekistan as a reliable and responsible sourcing hub.

The GTD forum also highlighted the substantial benefits available to local entrepreneurs, driven by strong government support. Tax incentives and simplified regulations have created a favourable environment for the growth of the textile sector. Additionally, the development of specialised industrial zones with tailored infrastructure and services was identified as a critical factor in attracting investment.

The event further explored opportunities for expanding international trade. During his presentation, Mohammad Monirul Islam, Ambassador of Bangladesh to Uzbekistan, highlighted the potential for enhanced cooperation, leveraging historical ties and geographic advantages. Future collaborations are expected to extend beyond cotton yarn trade to include employment opportunities, knowledge exchange, and advancements in education and scientific fields.

  

Accusing Japanese apparel manufacturer FullCount Co of violating previous court orders by continuing to manufacture and sell garments that infringe Levi’s famous trademark, Levi Strauss & Co has filed a new lawsuit against the company in the US District Court for the Northern District of California.

The lawsuit claims, acting in ‘contempt of [the] court,’ FullCount continues to produce items that feature ‘nearly-identical copies’ of Levi’s Tab, Arcuate stitching, and ‘501’ trademarks, despite being under permanent injunctions from earlier legal actions in 2007 and 2016.

One product at the center of this dispute is FullCount’s ‘1933 501 jeans,; which prominently display the words ‘LEVI,’ ‘501,’ and ‘San Francisco,; along with a pocket flasher that closely resembles Levi’s Guarantee Ticket trademark. Levi’s alleges that these actions are part of a strategy by FullCount to ‘co-opt [its] brand and reputation,’ violating the court’s previous rulings.

This lawsuit follows a decade-long legal battle between the two companies. Despite previous injunctions barring FullCount from using Levi’s trademarks without permission, Levi’s claims that the company has continued to infringe on its marks, including by manufacturing and promoting infringing products more aggressively in recent years.

Levi’s seeks sanctions against FullCount for its ‘willful and blatant; violations of court orders. In addition to claims of contempt, Levi’s is pursuing allegations of trademark infringement, counterfeiting, and trademark dilution, arguing that FullCount’s actions demonstrate a ‘malicious intent’ to counterfeit Levi’s federally registered trademarks. The lawsuit also names U.S. retailers Franklin and Poe Trust Company LLC and Standard & Strange as defendants for selling the infringing products.

Levi’s asserts that FullCount’s misuse of its iconic Tab and ‘501’ trademarks, along with its Arcuate stitching design, is likely to cause consumer confusion and damage the distinctiveness of Levi’s brand, furthering its claims of unfair competition and trademark dilution.

  

Valued at $10 billion in 2024, the global spandex market is projected to grow to $21.9 billion by 2034, expanding at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 8.1 per cent over the decade. As per a report by FactMR, this growth will bedriven by the increasing use of spandex in various industries, including medical textiles, where it is utilised in compression garments such as bandages, surgical hoses, and support garments. Spandex’s lightweight and flexible properties make it ideal for sportswear and activewear, like swimsuits and workout clothing.

Additionally, spandex is widely used in socks to improve fit and elasticity, as well as in incontinence products and diapers. The demand for diapers is expected to rise significantly, particularly in countries such as China and India, which will contribute to market growth. In 2024, the spandex market in the US is expected to reach $1.2 billion, while the value of Japan’s spandex market is projected to rise to $600 million during the year. China will hold a 53.4 per cent sharein the East Asia Spandex market that is projected to grow at a CAGR of 8.5 per cent through 2034.

Essential in sports clothing due to its ability to enhance comfort and prevent injuries caused by excessive fabric stretching, spandex was traditionally produced using petroleum-based raw materials like Polytetramethylene Ether Glycol (PTMEG) and Diphenylmethanediisocyanate (MDI). However, with growing sustainability concerns, manufacturers are shifting toward producing bio-based and eco-friendly spandex. In April 2024, the world’s largest spandex manufacturer, Hyosung announced the development of a $1 billion facility in Vietnam that will use Genomatica’s fermentation technology to convert sugar into 1,4-butanediol (BDO), a spandex precursor traditionally derived from coal or natural gas. By 2026, Hyosung plans to produce 50,000 metric tons of bio-based BDO annually, increasing to 200,000 metric tons by 2035.

This shift reflects the spandex industry’s increasing commitment to sustainability, as it reduces reliance on petroleum and coal, with many Chinese BDO plants still using coal as a primary raw material.

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