FW
"In 2012, Europe adopted GSP+. The Plus (+) is a Delegated Regulation aimed at simplifying the entry mechanism to ensure transparency and predictability of the process. When a Standard GSP beneficiary requests GSP+ status, the country has to undertake a binding commitment to the ratification and effective implementation of 27 core conventions from the United Nations (UN) and the International Labour Organisation (ILO), in areas such as human rights, labour rights, good governance and environmental justice, highlighted Henri Malosse, former president, European Economic and Social Committee."
In 2012, Europe adopted GSP+. The Plus (+) is a Delegated Regulation aimed at simplifying the entry mechanism to ensure transparency and predictability of the process. When a Standard GSP beneficiary requests GSP+ status, the country has to undertake a binding commitment to the ratification and effective implementation of 27 core conventions from the United Nations (UN) and the International Labour Organisation (ILO), in areas such as human rights, labour rights, good governance and environmental justice, highlighted Henri Malosse, former president, European Economic and Social Committee.
Pakistan was added to the list of GSP+ beneficiaries in 2014 due to devastating floods. It ratified the GSP+ Conventions but implementation has been far from effective. Since then, despite the country continuously violating norms has been a part of the pact. The European Commission, specifically The Directorate General responsible for Trade, is still considering to maintain GSP + for Pakistan without any inquiry or serious verification.
Significance of Plus
As per DG Trade, GSP+ encourages Pakistan to make great efforts to adopt international conventions – It is true, Pakistan has adopted some new laws but implemented few. The EU values fair, multilateral and rule-based order in trade arrangements, hence beneficiary countries are expected to put into practice key UN human rights and International Labour Organisation conventions. But, this rights based approach to trade is being ignored by DG Trade as it believes that suspending GSP+ will destabilise the economy, especially the textile industry, and those left unemployed may face serious hardships. The real concern should be that Pakistan has concentrated its exports in the textile sector with low-cost workers without trade union, social or labour rights of any kind. Women especially are receiving wages below the minimum standards and have no rights due to a justice system with inherent gender inequalities. While it cannot be disputed that a few companies are benefitting from GSP+ subsidies, especially those close to the Government, the benefits are not being percolated to each and every worker.
Other GSP and GSP+ accorded countries such as Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, Armenia or Colombia have been complying with the criteria. Countries such as Belarus and Sri Lanka have also borne the brunt of the stringent regulations when their subsidies were removed for non-compliance. This actually sets a benchmark for others. Even after lot many warnings, Pakistan doesn’t seem to change and the GSP+ authorities are also not removing it from the list is quite surprising, according to trade analysts.
DG Trade recognises the importance attached to the GSP + status, still no concrete measure is being taken to comply with the same. While on one hand, there are few European countries who are still exporting machinery or importing products from Pakistan, forgetting the overall negative effects on manufacturing and jobs in Europe. On the other hand, the European Union’s partner countries in the Maghreb or those countries, like Sri Lanka, who are genuinely addressing previous human rights abuses, are being ignored completely.
Complexities
The European Union is bound by Article 207 of the Treaty on the Functioning of the European Union, the EU’s common commercial policy must be conducted ‘in the context of the principles and objectives of the Union’s external action’, and that, pursuant to Article 3 of the Treaty on European Union, it must contribute, inter alia, to sustainable development, the eradication of poverty and protection of human rights. Trade is not an end in itself.
In 2017, Oerlikon delivered its targets and recorded top-line growth as well as improved operating profitability across all segments. The group recorded profitable growth by securing wins in its markets and industries, delivered on its strategy and sustained a high ebitda margin after offsetting sizeable investment expenses.
Full-year group order intake increased year-on-year by 24.5 per cent, including a positive currency impact of 0.7 per cent while sales were 22.1 per cent higher year-on-year, including a positive currency impact of 0.8 per cent.
The global economic expansion provided a steady backdrop for the upward trend in trade, export and capital investments in practically all of Oerlikon’s end markets, including automotive, aviation, tooling, general industries, energy, filament equipment, agriculture, construction and transportation.
The surface solutions segment continued steady upward trend, generating notable organic growth that was complemented by technology-strengthening acquisitions. The manmade fibers business reported substantial recovery, driven mainly by the China-led filament equipment market. The drive systems business made significant gains in sales, orders and operating profitability.
Oerlikon achieved strong year-on-year growth in operating profitability for the full year, as measured by both ebitda and ebit. Group ebitda increased 24.3 per cent, yielding a margin of 14.6 per cent. Full-year group ebit for 2017 was 7.7 per cent of group sales.
India’s textile exports dropped 13 per cent year-on-year in January following a sharp fall in cotton textile exports. Cumulative exports of textile and apparel products dropped four per cent year-on-year in April to January 2018. While cotton textile exports fell one per cent year-on-year, apparel exports dropped five per cent year-on-year.
The share of textile and apparel exports also declined from 14 to 12 per cent in January 2018 as compared to the corresponding period previous year. One of the key factors for the decline in exports is embedded duties, which are more than five per cent. The slide in exports comes at a time when there has been a rise in imports of textile products post GST. Imports of textile yarn, fabric and made-ups increased by 15 per cent year-on-year during April to January 2018.
Post-GST effective import duties have come down sharply, making imports cheaper for the domestic industry by 15 to 20 per cent. Cotton yarn exports dropped over 26 per cent between 2013-14 and 2016-17 in spite of the textile industry’s adding over three million spindles and 62,000 rotors in spinning capacity during the period under review. The industry wants export incentives for cotton yarn as it is a vulnerable sector.
Apparel Textile Sourcing will be held in Miami from May 21 to 23, 2018. It will attract over 200 exhibiting companies and 2500 visitors from the US, Latin America, and Caribbean. The centerpiece of the event will be The Americas Pavilion, a section devoted to manufacturers from Latin America with an emphasis on the fashions and production benefits of sourcing from Latin America.
The Latin American region is one of the world’s leading producers of apparel and textiles. The pavilion will showcase products of Mexico, Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua, and El Salvador. Mexico is the second largest exporter of blue jeans to the US; it is also the third largest exporter of knits and the fourth exporter in cotton pants. Worldwide, Mexico is the 13th largest exporter of textile products, and in the footwear sector, it ranks in the top ten.
Latin America produces 15 per cent of all apparel purchased in the US. The Americas Pavilion will feature a curated selection of companies gathered to build communication channels between suppliers and buyers. Product categories exhibited on the show floor will include apparel for men, women, children, active and intimate wear, socks, home textiles, bed and bath, denim, knits, synthetics, linen, and accessories like handbags, hats, wallets, ties, and more.
Goop has launched an active wear line called G Sport. This is a collection of tops, bras and bottoms. G Sport has the goal of providing women with mix-and-match performance pieces that are simultaneously technical, comfortable, and fashion-centric. G Sport’s collection is focused on form, function and femininity, with bright peonies adorning leggings and bras on a navy background, while other pieces are available in basic grey or black. Leotards, crop tops, a puff-sleeve mesh tee, leggings and a fleece round out the first collection. From a performance standpoint, G Sport delivers standard tech features such as flat-locked seams and elastic support.
Goop was launched as a lifestyle brand by Gwyneth Paltrow in 2008. It started off as a weekly newsletter, aimed at providing information related to food, health and travel. It has now expanded into e-commerce, provides recommendations on travel, food and health. It has launched its own pop-up stores and in 2017 saw its own magazine materialize.
Paltrow isn’t the only celebrity shaking up the entrepreneurial space. Actress Jessica Alba helped co-found The Honest Company in 2012, a goods maker that offers eco-friendly products; while Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen and Victoria Beckham have launched their own fashion lines.
US sport-lifestyle retailer Foot Locker’s revenue grew 4.8 per cent in 2016. However, weaker-than-expected results for Q4 penalised its performance for 2017 as a whole. Comparable sales were down 3.1 per cent on an annual basis while they had increased 4.3 per cent in the previous financial year.
The latest financial year’s Q4 recorded a 3.7 per cent decrease in comparable sales. Total sales were nevertheless slightly up, by two per cent, thanks to the fact that this quarter featured 53 weeks as opposed to 52 the previous year. However, Foot Locker’s profitability declined. Net income fell 57 per cent compared to 2016. Tremendous changes in consumer expectations continued to affect its business in the fourth quarter.
Foot Locker now operates 3,310 stores in 24 countries. In the last financial year, it closed down 147 stores (mostly in the US), relocated or renovated 185 stores and opened 94 new ones, notably in Europe. The company remains cautious about the 2018 financial year, forecasting comparable sales to remain stable or to fall slightly.
Foot Locker retails athletic footwear, apparel and accessories. It is the largest footwear retailer in the United States. Major retailers such as Macy’s and JCPenney are heavily affected as shopping continues to move to the digital space.
Chinese scientists have developed a fiber that mimic the structure of polar bear hairs. Textiles that can mimic polar bear hair’s IR-reflecting abilities might be useful in stealth applications, such as concealing soldiers. Polar bears’ hair has a hollow core, which reflects back IR emissions from the body. This structure not only helps prevent heat loss and keeps the bears warm in Arctic environments but can conceal the bears from thermal imaging cameras used in many night-vision devices.
Previous attempts to make synthetic versions of the hair produced fibers that were too weak to be practically useful. But the Chinese used a freeze-spinning method to make fibers that are porous, strong, and highly thermally insulating. They consist of fibroin, a protein found in silk, along with a small amount of the polysaccharide chitosan.
Researchers slowly squeezed a viscous, watery mixture of these materials through a cold copper ring, forming a frozen fiber that contained flat ice crystals. Freeze-drying the fibers removed the ice by sublimation to produce strong fibers about 200 micrometers wide with up to 87 per cent porosity.
After varying conditions such as the viscosity of the mixture and the temperature of the ring, they found that running the process at minus100 degree Celsius produced pores about 30 micrometers across, which offered the best balance between strength and thermal insulation.
The apparel industry accounts for 6.7 per cent of the world’s greenhouse gas emissions, and together with the footwear industry generates a total of eight per cent. If the global apparel industry doesn’t change, proportion could increase by 49 per cent over the next 15 years.
The industry’s value chains stretch across seven stages - from fiber production/material extraction to end-of-life. Yarn preparation and dyeing and finishing are the phases with the highest environmental impact.
Numerous standards offer regulations for these negative impacts, such as the Oeko-Tex Standard, the Global Organic Textile Standard, the Fair Trade Standard, and others. However, these regulations are often just as complex as the textile industry itself. Any difference can cause in consumers, as well as in retailers, more confusion than responsible decisions. There is a lack of universality of standards.
Last year, several fashion brands, including Levi’s, Gap and Nike, joined a global effort to reduce their greenhouse gas emissions and prevent global warming by two degrees. The latest fashion brand to sign up is Spanish clothing company Skunkfunk.
Among the recommended steps are increasing efficiency by switching to renewable energy, disrupting through digitisation and designing for the future. The power of data and transparency will take care of the rest.
The actual number of workers in Bangladesh’s readymade garment sector is uncertain. It is estimated that some 4.4 million workers, most of whom are women, are employed in the sector, although there is no specific data on the number of male and female workers or their ratio.
Many believe nearly 80 per cent workers in the sector are female. But there has been an increase in male participation following the adoption of more modern technologies in the sector. The importance of a central database for workers was seriously felt after the Tazreen fire and the Rana Plaza collapse, as it took a long time in proper identification of victims due to the absence of such a database. It also delayed the process of compensation for affected workers and their dependents.
Both the apex apparel trade bodies – BGMEA and BKMEA – are yet to complete preparing a biometric database of the workers under their respective member factories. Till date, some 2.95 million workers of some 2,136 member factories of Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association have been enlisted. On the other hand, Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association has been able to enlist the workers of only 147 of its member factories so far, out of active 900 units, in its database.
"Despite the economic ups and downs in China over the last few years, demand for premium European textiles remains high. Whether it be premium wool for the flourishing suiting market, ladieswear fabrics, lace & embroidery for high-end domestic brands each with hundreds of stores across the country, innovative yarns & fabrics for the booming sports and activewear sectors, or original pattern designs for the thousands of new online fashion brands, European suppliers remain the go-to option for Chinese buyers looking for quality and style."
Despite the economic ups and downs in China over the last few years, demand for premium European textiles remains high. Whether it be premium wool for the flourishing suiting market, ladieswear fabrics, lace & embroidery for high-end domestic brands each with hundreds of stores across the country, innovative yarns & fabrics for the booming sports and activewear sectors, or original pattern designs for the thousands of new online fashion brands, European suppliers remain the go-to option for Chinese buyers looking for quality and style.
As an undisputed leader in the European textile scene, Italy is always a good bellwether of the trends between Europe and China. After a less than stellar 2016, Italy’s fabric exports to the Mainland China and Hong Kong markets grew by 12.4 per cent in the first 10 months of 2017. The expected demand for European brands at Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics will be most evident in the SalonEurope zone, which features exhibitors from Austria, France, Germany, Italy, Spain, Switzerland, Turkey and the UK, as well as country pavilions & zones from France, Germany, Italy and Turkey. There is also continuing demand for overseas expertise when it comes to more technical areas such as sustainability and digital printing, solutions to which can be found in the fair’s All About Sustainability area and Digital Printing Zone.
SalonEurope showcase
The best of the best from Europe will be on display at SalonEurope, with a range of products across the whole textile spectrum on offer. Alumo (Switzerland) will be celebrating 100-year anniversary this July. Alumo has undertaken a complete refresh of their brand, highlighting the character of their mill in Appenzell, Switzerland that has deep roots in the local textile industry. This edition, they will showcase a renewed collection of luxury shirting fabrics with intricate designs and added functions such as natural stretch and wrinkle-free, and a newly enlarged, never-out-of-stock ‘Sartorial’ collection. Hatfil Tekstil Isletmeleri (Turkey), a Turkish-Italian joint venture, offer a huge range of yarns including eco-friendly options such as organic, BCI and fair trade yarns, as well as cotton, Tencel, Amicor, bamboo, cashmere, modal and other varieties.
Ricamificio Paolo Italy SpA (Italy), an embroidery manufacturer, has developed a new technique using thin embroideries to produce a lace-like effect, which can also be customised to the customer’s requirements in no more than four weeks. They have also produced a quilt-like fabric suitable for spring / summer garments, which is made from materials such as silk organdie, cotton yarn or lurex to produce a shiny effect. Teseo Tessitura Serica Di Olmeda SpA (Italy)’s summer 2019 collection is inspired by the natural elements with increased attention to sustainability with GOTS-certified bio silk and eco-friendly yarns. New articles are lighter and enriched with yarn-dyes, include jacquard stripes and checks, gauze and devoré bands to add transparency, and more.
Digital Printing Zone
While digital printing is rapidly gaining traction in the global textile industry, this is especially so in China due to its potential to reduce pollution during the production process. Amongst the exhibitors looking to take advantage of this in the fair’s new Digital Printing Zone is MS Italy, a market leader in the design, development and distribution of innovative digital ink-jet printing systems and associated consumables, which serves the high-end, roll-to-roll textile printing and specialty material markets. Also exhibiting is Digitex, which will introduce the latest digital- and inkjet-printed natural and manmade fabrics.
Apart from digital printing exhibitors, a day-long forum will inform fairgoers on the exciting possibilities of digital printing. Held on Day 2, the Fast Fashion and Digital Printing Application Forum, features sessions on fast fashion technology & trends and digital printing applications. These are followed by a series of discussions on topics such as flexible supply chains, business opportunities created by digital printing and IP protection. The forum also includes a presentation on the findings of a six-month study conducted by Fashion Print, a Chinese publication, for which they visited hundreds of textile companies, printing and dyeing enterprises, as well as their suppliers to produce a research paper on the digital textile printing market and technology.
