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Since the last two years, the US fashion group Ralph Lauren has been transforming its business model to respond more effectively to industry dynamics and challenges faced. Patrice Louvet, the group's new General Manager, said he is ploughing on in his predecessor's tracks. Louvet is working closely with Ralph Lauren and has revealed the three major fronts the fashion group is engaged in. He felt a need to improve sales performance and the distribution network's quality. He is also looking at putting in new energy into products and marketing to attract the new generation of consumers and also looking at expanding the brand’s digital footprint and its international presence.
The brand sees China as a key area of focus. The size of Ralph Lauren's business in Asia is relatively small. In the last quarter, closed at the end of September, the group's sales in Asia grew 4 per cent at constant exchange rates, however, at current rate revenue in the region remained stable at under $217 million. On the positive side, margins in the region are growing. After being in the red in Asia for a long time, in the last quarter the group generated an operating income of $26.5 million (as against $203 million in North America).
In 2017 fiscal year, they expect to generate a revenue of $50 million in mainland China, equivalent to less than 1 per cent of our global revenue. This is significantly higher than majority of competitors, who have a greater penetration in the region. As per data by market research firm Millward Brown, Polo's brand awareness in China is as high as 83 per cent.
A MoU has been inked in India between Madhya Pradesh State Skill Development Mission (MPSSDM) and the National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT), Bhopal to train the state’s youth in the textile sector under the Mukhya Mantri Kaushalya Yojana (MMKY). Under the agreement, NIFT will impart practical training to around 10,000 youth and develop skills to make them employable.
State domicile and Class 8 pass-outs will be eligible for this month-long training course which is expected to begin in the next 15 days. Those applying for the course will be offered training on batch-basis. Each batch will have 30 candidates. At least 70 per cent of total trained personnel will be recruited post training. Those trained under the scheme will be offered 4-Grade certificates by the Ministry of Skill Development and Entrepreneurship.
Training will be offered in 10 or 12 courses depending on needs of the industry. Initially, four courses related to spinning will be offered. Further, NIFT-TEA College of Knitwear Fashion and the Ministry of Rural Development also partnered recently to start a training programme and train the unskilled youth in the apparel industry under DDU-GKY (Deen Dayal Upadhyaya Grameen Kaushalya Yojana) in Tirupur.
British retailer Mothercare, which specialises in products for expectant mothers and children, recorded a 1.7 per cent decline in total international sales to £393.2 million in first half of fiscal 2017. During the period under review, the retailer’s worldwide sales also witnessed a 1.4 per cent drop to settle at £627.9 million.
In the UK market Mothercare’s sales dopped by 1 per cent to £229 million during the six-month period, while adjusted profits for their international business fell by 208 per cent to £14.9 million. Total company revenues plunged 2.4 per cent from £347.7 million to £339.5 million despite challenging market conditions in the Middle East.
During the months under review, the retailer opened 68 new stores while closing down 83 stores that could not perform and around 127 stores were refurbished into the new modern format.
The Indonesian government continues to spur the growth of textile industry that has a capacity of absorbing mass labour. Their labour absorption is forecast to touch 2.73 million people. The Ministry of Industry targets the growth rate of textile and textile products (TPT) in Indonesia in 2017 to reach 2.59 per cent with textile export of around $12.09 billion. The development of this industry is expected to boost export and market share of national products worldwide.
The next two years, the growth rate of the textile industry is expected to be higher at 3.56 per cent with export in terms of value at US $ 15 billion and the absorption of its workforce can reach 3.11 million people.
To continue to promote the development of the national textile industry, the Indonesian Ministry of Industry cooperated with the Indonesian Textile Association and the Association of Indonesian Synthetic Fiber Manufacturers by compiling a roadmap of the national textile and textile product industry which is integrated from upstream to downstream from Sabang to Merauke from Miangas to Rote Island, 2035.
Indonesia's textile and textile production industry is known for its good quality in the international market, so it can be a strong capital in expanding the distribution of textile products.
The factor in enhancing the demand for textile products was through the implementation of fiscal and non-fiscal policies of several economic policy packages that have been implemented by the government. This is taken as a step to create a right investment climate that is conductive to assist in business activities such as vocational education and also play a role in the research and development of textile and textile products industries.
In addition to participating in improving the performance of the textile and textile products industry by issuing such policies, the government also helps in increasing the supply chain especially in supplying cotton raw materials.
The Ministry of Industry along with stakeholders will make a working visit to the United States to look at the availability of raw materials which will be imported from and stored in the warehouse of Indonesia Bonded Logistics Centre.
A business to business meeting between Vietnamese and Indian companies took place in Ho Chi Minh City recently. Shailesh Martis, Director of Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council of India said Vietnam has emerged as a leading global exporter of garments and is constantly on the look-out for high- quality cotton textiles, including cotton yarn and fabrics. The Vietnamese textile and clothing industry has set a high yet attainable export target of $30.5 billion for 2017. Vietnamese importers are therefore keen on looking at alternative sources for raw materials. The Indian exporters of cotton textiles are eager to meet any gap within the Vietnamese cotton textile supply chain, he said.
K Srikar Reddy, Consul General of India, is of the view that there is huge trade potential in the area of textiles and garments between the two countries. The Indian textile industry has developed a complete product supply chain. The country is also one of the primary suppliers of high-quality materials and fabrics at competitive prices in the world. As Vietnam is looking to diversify its material suppliers in the textile segment, this offers a great opportunity for mutually beneficial co-operation between Indian and Vietnamese enterprises, he disclosed, noting that enhancing bilateral economic engagement is a strategic objective and textile and garments has been identified as a priority sector for co-operation.
The delegation of nine Indian companies has also attended the 17th Vietnam International Textile & Garment Industry Exhibition from November 22-25 at Saigon Exhibition & Convention Centre in Ho Chi Minh City. The delegation showcased cotton, high-quality woven, knitted, and denim fabrics and home textiles. Despite US’ withdrawl from the Trans-Pacific Partnership (TPP), international investors have remained optimistic about Vietnam’s market potential on the back of the country’s stable economic growth.
Karl Mayer has used its Rascheltronic machine, a high-speed jacquard raschel machine, to produce stable upholstery fabrics. Producers of sportswear and lingerie fabrics are using the Rascheltronic to produce stretch and non-stretch textiles with functional zones. The model used is designated the RSJC 5/1 EL, and this new collection has made it an effective tool for manufacturers of home textiles, as per the German manufacturer.
Since the emergence of the athleisure trend, it has become clear that various synergies existing between specific segments of the textile sector can be exploited. For example, lingerie lace is being incorporated into the shirts of women runners and functional materials are being used in sexy briefs, the company informs. Home and household textiles can also profit from the transfer of ideas from one sector to another. For example, the possibilities offered by typical warp knitting machines used in the clothing sector are now bringing a touch of flamboyance to the home. The fabrics incorporate an attractive, graphic design with open-work constructions and are extremely heavy for Rascheltronic fabrics. The final fabrics weigh between 330 and 400 g/m², depending on the arrangement of the weft lapping. In some designs, the weft runs along the holes, which therefore remain open, and does not join any stitch wales. In other patterns, the ground bars with the weft add to the openings, which affects the appearance and characteristics of the textile.
The warp-knitted textiles, with the partially filled-in openings, are denser and more stable in all directions. The fabrics also have the appropriate abrasion resistance values for use as upholstery fabrics. The results of abrasion tests carried out by textile developers at Karl Mayer are within the average range of the specific requirements of most manufacturers. The performance of these durable warp-knitted fabrics has also attracted the attention of shoe fabric producers. The machines are selling very well globally he informs.
Following moves to ensure sustainable growth and production of garments and apparels worldwide, uncertainty prevails on the issue of sourcing garments that come with conflict of interests between ethical correctness and competitive pricing. Apparel brands around the world are keen on keeping their supply chains without issues and maintain sustainably produced garments however, cleaning up the supply chain is not the only key consideration. There are other areas too which create confusion when it comes to making decisions on sourcing for global brands. Africa which jumped into the textile export bandwagon succeeded in changing consumption patterns worldwide with the result that international buyers feel drawn to the African market following its competitive pricing, further the hike in labour and production costs of Chinese textiles have been an added bonus for African countries.
UK also is seeing a major change in its textile manufacturing sector, however, post Brexit, the industry has turned increasingly dependent on government support to stay in business. To alleviate these issues, a new ratings platform has been designed to ascertain reports from the garment suppliers on their customers buying pattern.
Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety has decided to ensure adherence to safety norms by the textile factories set up in Bangladesh, despite this there are many issues such as too many factories face life-threatening safety issues, however , the government body expressed the hope that things will be sorted out by the deadline given of May 2018. To provide relief and ease the situation, the government of Bangladesh has taken assistance from World Bank for setting up infrastructure projects that will be privately funded. The assistance which comes in the form of financial agreements is also expected to diversify the exports of Bangladesh. China’s Wuxi No. 1 Cotton Mill has taken steps to enhance the Ethiopian textile market by signing an agreement to set up an integrated textile park in the country.
At a seminar ‘Is Viet Nam apparel industry ready for fast fashion?’ held in HCM City, Nguyen Thi Tuyet Mai, VITAS’ Deputy General Secretary, said the segment has seen rapid growth in the last few years. Though there are numerous issues related to sustainability of fast fashion products, their popularity among consumers is expanding dramatically.
Saurav Ujjain, Southeast Asia Business Head at ThreadSol, a Singapore-based technology company in the apparel industry, said globally styles are increasing at a 17.9 per cent CAGR. A majority of fashion brands have shifted to the fast-fashion segment as demand is for high variety, low volume and short lead times, therefore, there is intense pressure on apparel manufacturers to speed up their processes.
Mai’s assessment was Vietnamese firms have for long been outsourcing contracts but outsourcing fast fashion would be a big challenge for many of them. In recent years, Viet Nam has become a destination for major international fast fashion brands due in large part to its large young population and increasing incomes. Consequently, brands such as Zara, H&M, Topshop and Mango are rushing to open more shops in the country.
ThreadSol presented its range of innovative solutions for Viet Nam’s apparel industry. They included materials management model. From correct purchases of fabric, to intelloBuy, to the most accurate planning, to cut fabric through intelloCut, these solutions can help manufacturers boost revenues and profits.
Mai said Viet Nam’s garment industry developed strongly in 2010-15, growing at 17 per cent a year. In the first nine months of this year, garment and textile exports were valued at nearly $23 billion, a year-on-year increase of 9.3 per cent, she said, adding that the full-year figure is expected to top $30.5 billion.
Teijin Frontier, the Teijin group's fibre-product converting company, has developed a new fabric that has a premium black colour and is expected to meet the growing demand for lightweight, easy-care formal wear. “Until now, it was difficult to reduce a fabric’s weight while retaining its deep black colour for use as formal wear. The reason was that the fabric had to be shrunk to prevent light reflection and increase its density to achieve a deep black colour, making it unsuitable for formal black wear by its weight,” says Tejin.
To ensure a premium black colour, the company developed a new polyester combined-filament yarn by using a new polymer technology combined with a new yarn-processing technology with orientation control. The brand’s solution was designed to optimise the fibre, the fabric structure and the post-dyeing processing technology in lightweight, premium black fabric. Light reflection was suppressed by lowering the refractive index and using thin-film fabrication processing to make the yarn bulky, thus low transparency is achieved without shrinkage of the fabric.
Still in the development stage, Teijin Frontier produced a deep black colour by greatly shrinking the yarn, but this raised the fibre’s density and increased its contact area which led to whitening due to friction. The thread structure was redesigned to ensure less shrinkage and finer yarn threads. Reduced shrinkage and greater bulkiness decreased whitening surface. The company is now exploring marketing opportunities and sample sales for formal black wear. Annual sales are forecast to touch $1.76 million by the fiscal ending March 2020.
Teijin is a technology-driven group offering advanced solutions in the areas of environmental value; safety, security and disaster mitigation; and demographic change and increased health consciousness. Its main fields of operation are high-performance fibres such as aramid, carbon fibres and composites, healthcare, films, resin and plastic processing, polyester fibres, products converting and IT. The group has some 170 companies and around 19,000 employees across 20 countries worldwide.
Following non-payment of refunds and a steep increase in cotton yarn prices which have sent the value-added textile industry into doldrums, the Pakistan Readymade Garments Manufacturers and Exporters Association has asked the PM give directives for early release of funds and implementation of PM package announced earlier.
PRGMEA (North Zone) Senior Vice Chairman Sheikh Luqman Amin denounced the Finance Ministry and The Federal Board of Revenue for delaying the PMs export package, proposing the government release funds to the Central Bank for disbursement of duty drawback of taxes to exporters, as only the immediate payment of all outstanding refunds of sales tax would save the industry.
The Ministry of Textile Industry has already notified the revised PM's package for exporters’ post the approval of the ECC but the Finance ministry has been sleeping over the issue despite the record high prices of yarn in the country.
Amin decried the fact that value-added textile exporters were battling for their survival in international market following severe competition with the regional countries. He warned that the blocking of funds was the main cause of relentless drop in exports.
He was of the view that the government’s initiative, if implemented timely, will provide relief to exporters who are presently facing severe liquidity crunch. His analysis was that these measures were temporary solution, as the government would have to provide suitable working environment by reducing cost of inputs to ensure export targets were met.
PRGMEAs Senior Vice Chairman appealed to the prime minister to pass orders for swift implementation of the package, however, he was hopeful that the government would fulfil its commitment to bring back the confidence of exporters or else the industry would collapse.
