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Uzbekistan, the world's fifth-largest cotton producer will supply textile products worth $70 million to South Korea till the end of 2018. Relevant agreements were reached during the negotiations of the Uzbekengilsanoat delegation with leaders of the major Korean trading companies Posco Daewoo, Color Paradise, Solsang International Corp, Ratel E & T Co, , Korea Factory and Lotte Mart retail network. During the meeting with the leadership of the Korean International Trade Association (KITA) and the national electronic trading platform (KTNET), agreements on joint activities to promote Uzbek textile products in Korea in 2017-18 through the electronic trading platform KOREA Trade, including providing services through representations of Uzbek companies in Korea or Korean importers and transport companies for electronic customs clearance were signed.
Since the beginning of the year, various textile semi-finished and other products valued at $23.4 million were exported to the Korean market. Further, a supply of knitted goods to the Lotte Mart retail networks, dyed and mélange yarn for manufacturers of knitted goods from Korea was launched this year. Uzbekistan is expected to achieve full processing of cotton fibre in 2021. By 2020, the capacity of local enterprises will ensure the full processing of cotton produced in Uzbekistan, which can lead to a significant decrease in export supplies of this crop. Only in 2017, the country intends to bring internal processing of cotton fibre to 70 per cent.
At the same time, by 2021 production of textile and clothing and knitted products will increase by 2.2 times compared to 2016, including ready-made fabrics - 2.7 times, knitted fabrics - 3 times, knitted goods – 3.4 times, hosiery – 3.7 times. It is planned to double the export of products. One of the priorities of Uzbekistan, the world’s fifth-largest cotton exporter, is further development of its textile industry. Annually, the country grows about 3.5 million tons of raw cotton, produces 1.1 million tons of cotton fibre.
Since the early 90’s when NAFTA and the WTO came into existence, the apparel industry in the US has been one of the hardest hit losing about 85 per cent jobs to competition abroad. Denim and jeans, as inseparable as a horse and carriage, have been an American icon for more than a century. Earlier, there were hundreds of mills manufacturing denim and now there are just two denim plants and, what is worse, 98 per cent of the apparel purchased in the US is manufactured abroad.
The unkindest cut of all is that the iconic Cone Denim White Oak plant in Greensboro, NC which will be closing by the end of this year. One is sure that the US President will not be happy to hear this news. The plant opened in 1905 and quickly became the world’s largest producer of selvedge denim manufacturing 1.6 million square feet during its heyday. And Michael Williams of men’s wear site ‘A Continuous Lean’ says it’s a national tragedy. The mill represents tradition, pride and the expertise that gets woven into some of the world’s most revered fabrics. History can’t be rewritten, and when the plant closes Americans will have lost yet another piece of our national identity.
It’s not that the US can’t compete with other countries when it comes to quality and productivity, what the country is competing against is cheap slave labour (sweatshops); poor environmental regulations; countries that just dump their waste into drinking water supplies; and countries like Bangladesh that pays its employees $68 a month. It’s distressing to note that now ‘Made in America’ is going to cost more.
Rural Electrification Corporation (RECL), sponsored under its CSR, the training of 540 candidates belonging to SCs, STs backward classes, physically handicapped, minority, general (economically weaker) and other segments of society in longer-duration (6 months -720 hrs.) courses in production supervisor-sewing/apparel pattern making, basic course. The course was conducted by Apparel Training and Design Centre (ATDC), the largest vocational training provider in the apparel sector with over 200 ATDC centres across 23 states, 86 cities and 150 districts.
The ATDC which conducts employment linked vocational training programs to provide trained workforce to the apparel industry has since 1996 trained over 3 lakh candidates, including over 2 lakh candidates under Integrated Skill Development Scheme (ISDS) of the Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India, thus providing placement mostly in export units. More than 80 per cent of candidates are women. Over 72 per cent of the trained candidates have been gainfully employed in the apparel sector.
Speaking on the occasion Darlie O Koshy, DG&CEO, ATDC thanked RECL for reposing confidence in ATDC to implement CSR initiative of RECL. He stated that ATDCs endeavour of providing skills to the youth of disadvantaged section of society are fully supported by AEPCs over 8,000 registered exporters by gainfully employing the ATDC trained candidates in various garment factories in most apparel clusters in the country.
Koshy further stated there are numerous success stories and many ATDC trained candidates have reached the position of factory head in many garment factories. With the quality of training provided by ATDC and 3rd party Assessment and Certification by NSDC (MSD&E, GOI) nominated AMH-SSC, trained candidates are getting employment in the apparel sector not only in India but also overseas.
Members and guests of the Southern Textile Association (STA) heard a variety of presentations during their recent Northern and Southern Division Fall Meetings in the US. Mary Lynn Landgraf, Senior International Trade Specialist, Office of Textiles and Apparel (OTEXA) in the US Department of Commerce, said the industry has an image problem in many ways, but letting people know that it’s a dynamic, growing industry is critical. Revealing data on buying attitudes toward American-made products, Landgraf said more than 80 per cent of Americans and a ‘surprising’ 61 per cent of Chinese say they would pay a premium for American-made goods in comparison to products made in China, according to a survey by Boston Consulting Group. She also shared a number of other surveys supporting this.
She said reshoring is real, based on OTEXA data, she added. The office tracks: 1) Who is coming back to the U.S, and why? and 2) Foreign Direct Investment (FDI). And the tides have begun to turn, she added. FDI has grown since 2014 and manufacturing innovation institutes have been created in the US. She also cited several factors that are driving industry back to the US., including: higher product quality and consistency; rising offshore wages; a skilled workforce; no issues with child labour; freight costs; shorter lead times; lower energy costs; minimal intellectual property and regulatory compliance risks; improved innovation and product differentiation.
Japanese used-clothing retailers are looking at enhancing exports in Southeast Asia. These retailers purchase unneeded clothes from consumers and resell them at their stores — which used to be mainly in Japan. Today they have seen that Southeast Asian markets are eagerly waiting to lap up used clothing. The Japan discards/burns around 1 million tonnes of clothes annually, however, by ensuring new markets, the efforts to encourage reuse of what would eventually be thrown away helps reduce environment pollution.
Don Don Up, a second-hand clothing store chain located in the Iwate Prefecture in Northern Japan, launched its Dondondown on Wednesday store in the Cambodian capital of Phnom Penh in 2014. It now operates 12 stores in Cambodia aiming to increase it to around 50 by 2021. The retailer also plans to expand its footprint into Thailand, Vietnam and other countries in the region.
Don Don Up’s President Akifumi Okamoto says most people in Cambodia, even those who are strapped for cash, have smartphones, they now have access to sufficient information and have become conscious about what they wear and how they wear it. International fast-fashion brands are hardly seen in the country. This is another reason for the Japanese retailer to expand its footprint in this market where there is a rising demand for used clothing.
The retailer's policy is to ‘buy anything, other than underwear.’ At its 51 stores across Japan, the retailer never refuses to buy clothes brought in by consumers, even those other second-hand retailers would not accept, such as heavily damaged or stained items, as well as clothing with personal names marked on them. For ordinary clothing, Don Don Up pays up to 500 yen ($4.42) per kilogram. Branded clothing are priced separately. The retailer picks what it wants to resell in Japan. The rest are sent to its overseas outlets. Some of them are remade into different items. Don Don Up exported 2,865 tons of used clothing in the year through September. Treasure Factory, another second-hand retail clothing shop in Japan, now sells such used items in Thailand. In a smart move, the retailer's Thai outlet buys second-hand clothes locally and resells them to consumers there.
The Nigerian Textile Manufacturing Association (MTMA) lobbied for a ban on export of cotton from the country. MTMA’s Acting Director-General, Hamman Kwajaffa, points out such restriction was required as locally produced cottons are just enough for manufacturers of textile materials in the country. Kwajaffa spoke at a public hearing organised by the Abubakar Moriki led House of Representatives committee on industry considering a Bill for an Act to establish the national cotton, textile and garment (CTG) development council and standardization in CTG value chain and ways to achieving CTG self sufficiency in Nigeria.
Kwajaffa described the move to establish the CTG development council as a step in the right direction since it would create a suitable environment for the economy to grow. Stakeholders in the garment industry have welcomed the plan to establish CTG, as it would boost cotton production in the country.
Decrying the reliance on imported fabrics by Nigerians, she said it was unfortunate that Nigeria is yet to reap the benefits derivable from the African Growth Opportunities Act (AGOA) due to the reverses suffered by the textile and garment sector of the economy over the years.
The J.Crew Group disclosed another sales drop in its third quarter, despite strong Madewell sales which continues to be a profit making entity the struggling company. The Goup also announced plans to close 50 stores this year, up from a previous target of 30. The American retailer reported a 5 per cent drop in total revenues for the three-month period ending October 28, falling to $566.7 million. Comparable company sales decreased 9 per cent, following a fall of 8 per cent in the third quarter last year.
Sales fell 12 per cent at the New York-based company’s flagship brand in the third quarter, however, robust growth was delivered for its Madewell brand.
Madewell sales increased 22 per cent to $107.5 million, while comparable sales enhanced by 13 per cent. Despite this fact, Madewell sales were too minimal to alleviate J. Crew’s woes, which it has been fighting for the last two years.
Jim Brett, Chief Executive Officer of the Group said, "Our goal is to reinvigorate the J.Crew Brand to reflect the America of today and to continue to drive strong momentum in the Madewell Brand. During the third quarter of fiscal 2017, we drove gross margin expansion and reduced SG&A by delivering on our expense initiatives. As we solidify longer term strategies, we will continue to leverage our strong brand equity and unique capabilities to expand our reach, accelerate growth and maximise profitability.”
As of November 21, 2017, the company operates 269 J.Crew retail stores, 121 Madewell stores and 182 factory stores.
ITMACH India, the largest textile machinery exhibition in the country will be launched in Gandhinagar, Gujarat. Participants are expected from all over the world. The four-day exhibition will take place from December 7 to 10, 2017 at a modern venue ‘The Exhibition Centre’. The show will host over 350 exhibitors from 10 countries and occupy 40,000 sq. mt. area.
ITMACH India is an ideal opportunity for investors and machinery marketers to interact. It is worth noting that Gujarat recently extended its flagship Textile Policy to draw investment for the sector and backed it up by an unique Apparel Policy that incentivise garment making and employment in the state. Further, incentive policies from the Centre and other states (Maharashtra, Madhya Pradesh, Telangana, Rajasthan, Himachal Pradesh, Haryana etc,) for the textile industry offers a conducive environment for growth in the post GST era.
ITMACH India would bring together latest textile machinery and technology worldwide. Machinery from each segment of the industry from spinning, weaving, knitting, dyeing, printing and processing will be showcased during the show days. Visitors will get to learn about the latest trends, developments and opportunities to share their knowledge and fine-tune their ideas. The mega event will ensure that a wide range of business ideas will be discussed and ensure facilitation of dynamic business networking.
This season, Eurovet, a leading organiser of lingerie, swimwear and activewear network events, reinvents the show experience offering numerous new elements for its two January shows: Salon International de la Lingerie and Interfilière Paris, which are comprehensive showcase of the market and its innovations. Organisers of the shows say, “Faced with markets undergoing profound shifts, Eurovet trade shows support key stakeholders and visitors in dealing with these changes. Breaking with traditional rules of the game, the Salon International de la Lingerie and Interfilière Paris shows will share their vision and innovative ideas from 20 to 22 January at Paris Expo – Porte de Versailles.”
The Interfilière Paris show offers a preview of innovations processes and experimental research while offering flexibility for brands and retail platforms. The objective of this edition is highlighting expertise and new technology for the world of lingerie. Today, shopping is no longer a purchasing process, rather it is a yearning for a fun filled experience in a meaningful setting and a desire to socialise and have fun.
Nearly 400 brands are expected to participate in the Salon International de la Lingerie which brings together brands, offering a diverse selection that includes essential labels, venerable craftsmanship and multifaceted creativity: luxury collections from designers, young creative brands, must haves names in lingerie and corsetry, sleepwear, loungewear, home wear and ready-to-wear brands, alternative labels, bold ranges and men’s collections. Nearly 180 exhibiting companies will be coming to display their latest innovations at Interfilière Paris.
The lingerie and loungewear selection is expected to showcase innovative designs with the arrival of new European accessory firms such as Soyelle (France) and Preformatex (Spain). New technical stakeholders who were in Paris in July, such as Japanese company Seiren, a seamless shape wear specialist, and Italian company Cadica, an innovative label and packaging specialist, have also confirmed their participation for this session. This year at the Salon International de la Lingerie Wacoal, a Japanese brand is presenting lingerie that is all about beauty, serenity, and innovation.
GOTS hosted a pre-conference to the 19th Organic World Congress of IFOAM - Organics International in New Delhi. The conference was a first of its kind, solely focused on ‘Social Compliance Issues in the Organic Textile Supply Chain’. The GOTS accredited independent Certification Bodies report over 1.4 million people working in GOTS certified facilities.
More than 80 high profile attendees and speakers from 12 countries – including scholars, CSR managers and HR representatives of companies, certification bodies, standard setters, government and NGOs discussed on hot spots like income equality within countries and globally, land grabbing, dealing with non-compliances or how certification as a diagnostic tool could be supplemented by instruments or measures which provide a measurable continuous improvement process.
Three main outcomes were agreed upon to put to larger scale in presenting them in Track 7.A of the 19th Organic World Congress (OWC) by GOTS representatives Christopher Stopes and Satoko Miyoshi. These were: Social criteria in sustainability standards help improving working conditions. Improve standards with measurable criteria and keep inspection/certification as a diagnostic tool; In addition or – if possible – in combination find and apply suitable aspirational approaches and tools; Find and apply efficient means to draw the big brands and retailers into utilising their responsibility for sustainability of the textile industry.
GOTS is the stringent voluntary global standard for the entire post-harvest processing (including spinning, knitting, weaving, dyeing and manufacturing) of apparel and home textiles made with organic fibre (such as organic cotton and organic wool), and includes both environmental and social criteria. GOTS was developed by leading international standard setters - Organic Trade Association (US), Japan Organic Cotton Association, International Association Natural Textile Industry (Germany), and Soil Association (UK) - in order to define globally-recognised requirements that ensure the organic status of textiles.
