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Driven by a quest for rare, invaluable fibres to manufacture the most magnificent fabrics in the world, the House of Dormeuil is celebrating the 175th anniversary of its foundation with an innovative creation. Known as ‘175 fabric’, this new cloth is masterfully woven with, the softest Vicuña and the finest Merino wool form an exquisite fabric. The fabric is a combination of two superlative wools from the Andes and Tasmania. Dominic Dormeuil, the 5th generation of the family, searched the Altiplano until he reached the Puno province, at 4800 meter mountaintop. From there, he selected the finest Vicuña, the fibre of the Gods.
Driven by a quest for rare, invaluable fibres to manufacture the most magnificent fabrics in the world, the House of Dormeuil is celebrating the 175th anniversary of its foundation with an innovative creation. Known as ‘175 fabric’, this new cloth is masterfully woven with, the softest Vicuña and the finest Merino wool form an exquisite fabric. The fabric is a combination of two superlative wools from the Andes and Tasmania. Dominic Dormeuil, the 5th generation of the family, searched the Altiplano until he reached the Puno province, at 4800 meter mountaintop. From there, he selected the finest Vicuña, the fibre of the Gods. Long reserved for the Inca emperors, it is today revered as a sacred gift of Pachamama, the Mother Earth goddess. Sheered only once every two years, a vicuña produces from 120 to 300 gm of fibre.
These animals demand specific attention to care and unpolluted fields for grazing. The Winton merinos produce a wool of unparalleled fineness, thanks to the quality of the land, 3,000 hectares of gently rolling hills, abundantly covered in lush vegetation and boasting a mild climate. When sheering season arrives during the Austral winter, the fleece bears witness to its extraordinary quality. Perfectly uniform and crimped, the long fibres are bewitchingly velvety and very resistant. Their ultra-soft feel, lightness and remarkable fineness (13.5 microns) offer a unique texture.
Weaving finesse
The Dormeuil Huddersfield workshops in Yorkshire have designed a specially adapted weave. Master weavers drew from 175 years of expertise combining ancestral weaving and finishing methods in the English fashion with innovative techniques. On state-of- the-art looms, each weaver ensures that the process runs smoothly and that the shuttles remain supplied with yarn. Fabric 175 has impeccable drape that recovers neatly when stretched, proof of its elasticity. The House has designed a straightforward, contemporary palette for 175 in tune with the Dormeuil tradition.
The USP
Dominic Dormeuil, President, says “Dormeuil is the first company in the world that has launched natural stretch in pure wool fabrics, without any use of spandex or elastane material.” He explains, wool as a fibre has natural elasticity up to 30 per cent, earlier as a process, elasticity is removed before processing the wool fibre in spinning, weaving and finishing because it is very difficult to process with elastic fibre. “But now, we have developed technology to process the natural elasticity through spinning, weaving and processing to have a finished product that has stretch up to 15-25 per cent, and please note this is not mechanical stretch. A part of our range has already been introduced in natural stretch. This adds approximately 10 per cent to the cost of fabrics. But this is being highly appreciated by luxury brands, as no one in luxury segment appreciates spandex/elstane based stretch,” informs Dominic Dormeuil. For Dormeuil, Asia is the biggest market especially Japan and China, followed by the US and then Europe.
Colours & trends
The luxurious fabric is available in tones of navy blue and anthracite grey, echoing the magnificent immensity of the Altiplano and Tasmania. Deploying the traditional dying processes, the discreet weave pattern underpins the remarkable fineness of the wool. For Dormeuil, all colors and shades of blue are in, the trend now as he says, “Blue is the new Black”. Speaking on trends, he remarks, that trend is towards more of casualwear and youth wear, jacketing and reversible products.
India’s annual rate of inflation, based on the monthly wholesale price index (WPI), declined to 2.60 per cent for September 2017 over the same month last year. The WPI for all commodities for the month of September 2017 declined by 0.4 per cent to 114.3 from 114.8 for the previous month.
The index for manufactured products for September 2017 rose by 0.4 per cent to 113.4 from 112.9 for the previous month. The index for the textiles sub-group rose by 0.6 per cent for the previous month due to higher price of texturised and twisted yarn and weaving and finishing of textiles, manufacture of cordage, rope, twine and netting and cotton yarn. However, the price of viscose yarn and manufacture of knitted and crocheted fabrics declined.
The index for primary articles declined by three per cent from the previous month. On the other hand, the index for fuel and power rose by 1.7 per cent from the previous month due to higher price of LPG, naptha, ATF, petrol, kerosene, HSD, furnace oil, and bitumen. However, the price of petroleum coke declined.
The index for Manufacture of Wearing Apparel sub-group rose by 0.1 per cent in September 2017 from the previous month due to higher price of trousers/pants made of cotton and/or manmade fiber.
"To attract consumers with its ethical practices, textile and apparel industry needs to look for sustainable alternatives. There are six interesting alternatives natural resources like bananas, coffee, pineapple, lotus, stinging nettles and hemp that can be used to turn into sustainable textiles. One of the most versatile natural fibers can be obtained from hemp (Cannabis Sativa plant) - hemp fibers, which are antibacterial, durable and resilient, work as a natural air-conditioning system. In addition, hemp is a fast-growing plant that consumes little water and does not require herbicides, pesticides, synthetic fertilizers or GMO seeds."
To attract consumers with its ethical practices, textile and apparel industry needs to look for sustainable alternatives. There are six interesting alternatives natural resources like bananas, coffee, pineapple, lotus, stinging nettles and hemp that can be used to turn into sustainable textiles. One of the most versatile natural fibers can be obtained from hemp (Cannabis Sativa plant) - hemp fibers, which are antibacterial, durable and resilient, work as a natural air-conditioning system. In addition, hemp is a fast-growing plant that consumes little water and does not require herbicides, pesticides, synthetic fertilizers or GMO seeds. China currently accounts for more than 50 per cent of the global hemp production and holds more than half of the more than 600 international patents on hemp fibers and textile production. This needs to change.
Hemp fibre
The common stinging nettle, Urtica dioica, is a widely used plant that is easy to grow. For the production of the fibers, the nettles are harvested in the summer and the stalks dried well. This removes the sting. After drying, the stalks are broken to separate the woody parts. Then, the plant is hackled to separate the fibers and to remove the leaf attachments. After that, the fibers are spun wet and then dried. Twisting them increases tear resistance.
Similar to hemp fibres, stinging nettle fibres are versatile, keep the wearer warm in winter and cool in summer, and can be grown with far less water and pesticides than cotton. Thanks to new spinning techniques and hybrid plant species, nettle plants with super high fiber content are obtained, which are strong and flexible and have a good spinning length.
Coffee ground fibre
To make coffee ground fibres, the most important raw material is coffee ground which most coffee drinkers simply throw away after making their coffee. Taiwanese textile company Singtex’s technology combines the post-patented processed coffee ground with polymer to create master batches before spinning it into yarn. The resulting coffee yarn is multi-functional and can be used in a variety of products, from outdoor and sports performance wear to household items used every day.
Fabrics made out of coffee ground fibres like S.Café by Singtex offers excellent natural anti-odour qualities, in addition to UV ray protection and a quick drying time. The coffee grounds used to create the yarn are taken and recycled from some of the world’s largest coffee vendors, like Starbucks. In this way, the company gives a second life to coffee grounds which would have otherwise ended up in the trash. Coffee ground fibres have many advantages but now, the challenge remains in taking the fibre global and ensuring more apparel brands incorporate it into their collections in lieu of conventional fabrics and that it extends its reach to outside of the fashion industry.
Pinatex
Pineapple fabric Piñatex, is a vegan alternative to leather, which is made from pineapple leaves. London-based Ananas Anam has developed a natural and non- woven textile out of pineapple leaves, known as Piñatex which is remarkably similar to leather. The revolutionare pineapple fabric is made from pineapple leaf fibres, a by-product from the pineapple harvest in the Philippines. During a process called decortication, the fibres are extracted from the leaves. The fibres then undergo an industrial process to become a nonwoven textile, which is the base of Piñatex. A by-product derived from the manufacturing process is biomass, which is converted into organic fertilizer or bio-gas and used by the farming communities, thereby closing the loop of the material's production.
Piñatex is the result of years of work and the search for an alternative to leather; a new type of natural tissue, which is 100 percent vegan and sustainable. In addition, it is also a strong, yet versatile, breathable, soft and flexible, material which can be easily printed on, stitched and cut, making it suitable for a number of fashion products. It has also won a number of awards. The next big step is to popularise Piñatex further and to continue developing and stabilizing its supply chain to meet the growing demand for its pineapple leaf, in a way that does not compromise its mission and fundamental values concerning environmental, ethical, social and economic sustainability.
Banana & lotus fibre
Banana fibre is another world’s strongest natural fibres made from the stem of the banana tree and is incredibly durable and biodegradable. The fibre consists of thick-walled cell tissue, bonded together by natural gums and is mainly composed of cellulose, hemicelluloses and lignin. Banana fibre is similar to natural bamboo fibre, but its spin ability, fineness and tensile strength are said to be better. Banana fibre can be used to make a number of different textiles with different weights and thicknesses, based on what part of the banana stem the fibre was extracted from. The material cycle is closed when producing banana fibres as they are made from waster products: from recycled banana stems, which the farmers would throw away otherwise.
Banana fibres can be used to make ropes, mats, woven fabrics as well as handmade papers. Green Banana Paper, a company based on the island of Kosrae in Micronesia, is using banana fibre to make vegan wallets, purses, beads and paper. However, extracting the banana fibre from the banana stems is not an easy, or simple, process but a labour intensive one. Banana yarn or cloth is made by boiling strips of the sheath in an alkaline solution to soften and separate them. Once this is done, the fibres are joined together to create long threads which are then spun wet, in order to prevent them from breaking. Afterwards, the threads can be dyed or weaved.
Lotus fibers have been used for special garments for centuries in Thailand and Myanmar. The manufacturing process produces a luxurious fabric that feels like a mixture of silk and raw linen that is also stain-resistant, light weight, soft, silky and extremely breathable. But in this case, the complicated and lengthy manufacturing process is the biggest hurdle when using lotus stems.
It remains to be seen how commercially viable and suitable each of the six sustainable fibres are for large scale production. Fabric made out of lotus and pineapple likely to interest the luxury market while hemp, nettles and coffee has huge potential in the mass market.
Bangladesh’s export earnings in the first quarter were 2.84 per cent less than the target set for the period. However, earnings for the readymade garment sector were 7.17 per cent higher compared to the same period a year ago. Earnings from knitwear products were 10.18 per cent up, and woven garments’ earnings were up 4.04 per cent compared to the corresponding period last year.
September earnings fell short of the monthly target. September exports were 10.18 per cent less from a year earlier and 44.23 per cent less from August. Lower shipments of garment products, which typically account for 80 per cent of the total export receipts, have been blamed for the slump in September’s export earnings. Another reason for the slowdown in garment exports in September is that it coincided with Eid-ul-Azha, so the factories remained shut for a long stretch.
Shipment of jute and jute goods grew 15.46 per cent, which is 5.87 per cent below the target for the July-September period. Home textile exports grew 23.81 per cent during July-September. Bangladesh targets reaching $50 billion in exports by 2021. It’s essential to take steps to reduce transport costs, ensure better infrastructural facilities and build deep-sea ports.
The global market leader and trendsetter in the production of warp knitting and warp preparation machines, Karl Mayer, is celebrating its 80th anniversary in 2017, and is marking this milestone by holding a series of special events with in-house shows held at its different subsidiaries. As part of this, the company will hold a show in China’s city Changzhou from November 23 to 25. On display will be Karl Mayer’s DS OPTO, a flexible direct warping machine for rigid filament yarns for production from short and sample warp beams to standard block color warp beams. The ISOSIZE is a conventional sizing machine based on a modular design, which can cater to every market demand. The beaming machine, the size box, and the drying unit are important components of the line. Karl Mayer demonstrates efficient, high-precision technology for the denim sector in the shape of its long chain beamer. This tried-and-tested machine is used in rope dyeing for converting ropes to yarn sheets of exceptionally high quality.
The new TMJ 4/1-T terry warp knitting machine in a gauge of E 24 is used for producing patterned towels will also be shocased. The RDJ 5/1 double-bar raschel machine with piezo jacquard technology, also in a gauge of E 24, produces a spacer textile with an innovative multicoloured design for use as a shoe fabric. A brightly coloured ground surface is combined with a discreetly coloured cover face with a mesh pattern to produce this striking look. The coloured spots showing through create a butterfly-like pattern. All the main pattern elements of the final shoe are incorporated in the mirror images of the two halves of the design.
Mercedes Benz, and Diesel and Motor Engineering Company Plc (DIMO), in partnership with the Academy of Design (AOD), will be holding the first-ever international fashion platform in Sri Lanka from October 27 to 30. The event will open up major opportunities for both the fashion and apparel industries through its fashion show, showcasing great creativity and sublime talent.
The Mercedes Benz Fashion Week, celebrating the evolution of the island’s remarkable fashion and apparel industry, will present remarkable insights into the local fashion world as well as providing the next generation with access to new knowledge. The event aims to highlight Sri Lanka’s massive apparel manufacturing industry and its impressive capabilities as it looks to transform itself into a full-spectrum service destination for fashion.
The first day of the fashion week promises to encompass a new Sri Lankan style which will highlight the cutting-edge innovation with low tech traditional craft while the second day will encapsulate an attractive new fashion proposition from the country itself. The final runway of the series will be an energetic insight into the future, providing a platform for all young design graduates who will carry on the creative industry.
The knowledge-sharing sessions at the fashion week include the South Asian Apparel Leadership Forum, which is perhaps the most influential meeting of minds for Sri Lankan fashion, while the new addition the Female Futures Forum will explore the topic of maximising the power of the female workforce.
Nilit presented its new premium brand Sensil at Intertextile Shanghai, October 11 to 13. On the opening day of the show, Nilit presented a seminar to share some of the consumer and retail market information that led to the creation of Sensil. It presented a Sensil fabric and garment collection. Nilit is a manufacturer of nylon textile fibers. Sensil is a premium Nylon 6.6 brand.
Sensil was created based on extensive analysis of evolving consumer attitudes and rapidly shifting retail shopping trends and, with its launch this summer, rapidly elevated the quality standard for Nylon 6.6. Nilit conveyed the benefits of its premium Nylon 6.6 products to apparel and fabric designers, brands, retailers, and consumers. It featured knit and woven garments inspired by Sensil premium Nylon 6.6 products.
Sensil is naturally softer, stronger, more durable, and more moisture-wicking and odor-resistant than other manmade fibers. It creates gorgeous fabrics with beautiful drape and hand. Sensil performance yarns are enhanced to provide additional attributes that consumers require in today’s advanced fabrics.
Sensil Breeze imbues apparel with a cooling effect. Sensil Body Fresh protects against the odors microbes can cause, which means clothes don’t have to be laundered as often. Sensil Heat provides warmth on chilly days while Sensil Aquarius wicks perspiration to stay comfortable on warm days. Sensil Innergy helps energise cells and reduce the appearance of cellulite.
The Woolmark company has entered the next phase of its ‘Grown in Australia Made in India’ campaign. The nationwide consumer-facing campaign will bring to the forefront the farm to fashion journey of Merino wool from Australia to India, and champion both woolgrowers of Australia, as well as handloom sector in India. It aims to connect those present across the wool supply chain including brands, manufacturers and the government, while also allowing consumers to be a part of this beautiful journey.
Capturing the stunning view and landscape of a sheep farm in Australia, the campaign film features Indian Wool Ambassador Shravan Reddy with international model Aleyna FitzGerald, exploring the farm while donning chic Merino wool attire. The progressive relationship between brands in India and Australian woolgrowers is a key highlight, as Indian labels such as Manish Malhotra, Dhruv Kapoor, Dhruv Vaish, Nachiket Barve, Ekaco by Rina singh, Rahul Mishra, Troy Costa and brands including Van Huesen, Raymond Ready to wear, Park Avenue, Color Plus, Ambassador shawls, Shinghora, Zeven, Monte Carlo and Louis Philip have all contributed carefully selected fashion pieces for the campaign video. The overarching theme of cross-country linkage comes to the frontline as the stunning background of Australia and its Merino sheep are juxtaposed with Indian brands and talented actor Shravan Reddy.
The media plan for the campaign will begin with in-film ads in cinemas in October and December. The campaign video will also be featured across national TV channels in November, followed by billboard promotions in Tier I, II and III cities across India. This engaging outreach will be supported by on-going lifestyle magazine adverts throughout the campaign duration.
Material ConneXion has added new high-performance Cordura fabrics to its global innovation library. Between Material ConneXion’s extensive showrooms all around the world and the easy accessibility of its online directory, designers will have quick and convenient insight into Cordura’s latest Live Durable fabric technologies.
Cordura Denims from the brand's X. Venture Collexion, a retro-futuristic line of garments created through a collaborative effort with designer Michele Rose and in concert with Artistic Milliners, the brand’s longest running authorized Cordura Denim mill, were selected and voted in after the materials caught the attention of Material ConneXion.
These innovative denims are now on display in Material ConneXion's multiple global showrooms, as well as included in the company's comprehensive online database. Cordura fabric is a primary ingredient in many of the world’s leading high-performance gear and apparel products ranging from luggage, upholstery and backpacks to footwear, military equipment, tactical wear, workwear and performance apparel. Cordura is a trademark of Invista, one of the world’s largest integrated producers of chemical intermediates, polymers and fibers.
Material ConneXion is a materials and innovation consultancy. It provides a global, cross-industry perspective on materials, design, new product development, sustainability, and innovation. Material ConneXion maintains the world’s largest subscription-based materials library with thousands of innovative materials and processes.
Cambodia wants GSP for its garment and footwear exports to the US. GSP is a preferential trade treatment. The US is due to review its GSP program for least-developed countries by the end of the year. Currently, GSP coverage for Cambodia does not include garment and footwear articles -- major export products for Cambodia. Only 82.6 per cent of Cambodian products currently enjoy preferential trade treatment with the US.
If the US accedes to the request, it would help the Cambodian economy in terms of export growth, new investment and employment generation for thousands of Cambodians. Australia, New Zealand, Norway and Switzerland give preferential trade treatment to 100 per cent of Cambodian products. The European Union, under the Everything but Arms treaty, allows the import of 99 per cent of products duty and quota free.
Canada gives preferential treatment to 98.6 per cent of Cambodian products, Japan to 97.9 per cent and China to 97 per cent. In July last year, the US granted duty-free benefits for Cambodia for the export of travel goods such as luggage, backpacks, handbags and wallets under GSP. There are some 60 registered footwear manufacturing factories in Cambodia and exported $700 million worth of goods last year.
