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China will put a stop to export subsidies it has been granting for years to a host of industries, giving them an unfair advantage when competing with other companies around the world. China ended a program which provided export subsidies of some billion dollars over three years to Chinese companies in seven economic sectors including apparel, textiles and footwear, hardware and building materials, light industry and agriculture.
China is supposed to be subsidizing billions more in exports through its support for state-controlled behemoths that ship low-cost products around the world, threatening rivals in the US and other countries.
Export subsidies are prohibited under WTO rules. China’s export subsidies were not consistent with international trade obligations and a balanced business model. The US felt Chinese subsidies were hurting American workers, farmers, ranchers, and businesses, who wanted to play by the rules and wanted to compete fairly, on the merits of their hard work and the quality of their products. Americans employed in seven diverse sectors that run the gamut from agriculture to textiles to medical products will benefit from a more level playing field on which to compete.
China’s rise to become the world’s largest exporter of textile and apparel products was aided a lot by a pervasive series of state-sponsored subsidies.
Ahead of the International Digital Printing Industry Fair (TPF 2016) at Shanghai, a one day conference on digital printing titled - ‘Fast growing Textile printing to co-exist with the traditional printing source,’ held as a precursor to the event. At the conference, Edri Baggi, Business Development Officer Inks Europe, Sensient imaging technologies SA and Katja Ebers, Reggiani Machine Spa were the speakers among others.
In her presentation Baggi said, the social and environmental aspects have to be well addressed to make digital printing a globally sustainable story. Thanks to textile digital printing industry, we can expect a much faster turnaround, resultant less wastage/water requirement. Therefore today we can sell what we make based on consumers insights than what are forced to and be more judicious to our stakeholders and in turn society and environment, she observed.
Baggi mentioned that we can be more responsive to ever tightening regulatory restrictions coming up from different global brands and retailers’ season in season out, especially in the backdrop of growing global consciousness about sustainability and the impact it may have on society and environment.
Speaking by introducing Reggaiani, Katja Ebers said that Reggaiani has always been at the forefront to lead the industry to new age production and processing.
She also mentioned about the opportunities for the global textile digital printing by pointing out that the digital printing technology currently is below is 5 per cent and that itself speaks the volumes of the upside possible in the story.
Traditionally, textile is always been a key application area for digital printing. She identified the upcoming application areas - upholstery, flooring carpets, wall coverings etc. where opportunities are waiting to be explored. Ebers concluded by saying that the digital printing in textiles is an improved technology of natural first preference.
"The one day conference on Digital Printing held in Shanghai as a precursor to the International Digital Printing Industry Fair (TPF 2016, 17-19 April) started on a positive note. With the theme that ‘Fast growing Textile printing to co-exist with the traditional printing source,’ James Rankin, Market Intelligence Lead-WTiN set the motion as a keynote speaker."
The one day conference on Digital Printing held in Shanghai as a precursor to the International Digital Printing Industry Fair (TPF 2016, 17-19 April) started on a positive note. With the theme that ‘Fast growing Textile printing to co-exist with the traditional printing source,’ James Rankin, Market Intelligence Lead-WTiN set the motion as a keynote speaker.
Digital advantages
Rankin emphasized amongst other things the growing global market for textile digital printing where the new normal versus conventional printing. Even though digital printing is still in early days, it’s only since last 5-7 years it’s coming of age, he observed. These are some of the key advantages it offers over the conventional to make it a winner. Short delivery time; no need of plate making and sizing, delivers identical production, short run, more ecological and sustainable, a faster process and preparation process is short. There is much better consistency in quality, helps avoid production waste and response time is less, speed to market is faster. Digital printing allows to run your imagination wild, allows design freedom, unique patterns and colour spectrums are quite wide. And of course this can be used for large scale as well. There’s almost no water used and it works on water conservative technology.
From the end user’s perspective, with increasing pressure of shorter delivery time, fast turnaround in the fast fashion world is supporting the digital printing case. The client today wants best printed quality any which way. To control cost, we need to embrace this new age printing. It improves surface appeal and gets you the opportunity to better your pricing power and profitable sustenance, observed Rankin.
Johanny Zhao, Commercial Manger, SPG Prints, a co-presenter at the conference said, though analogue still enjoys maximum share but momentum is on the digital side, with an annual growth of 30 per cent plus and synthetic fiber will be a growth driver in the time to come and increasingly its share versus natural is improving through the period. Asia accounts for 40 per cent of global market and within Asia, China and India along with Pakistan are emerging blocks. Turkey is showing a steady growth and European demand is stabilizing and Central America is emerging. The revelation however was although as of now India ranks 6th largest market by size but by scope and growth rate, it is surprising many especially the width and the depth it offers
Emerging applications
In digital printing, garments as of now got a share of 2/3 rd of the pie and the rest comes from home textiles. Though home fashion application is very challenging but is retarded by global slowdown rather than its acceptance level, the speakers observed at the conference.
As far as the hardware part of the industry is concerned, Japanese and Italian markets are amongst the global front runners. But at the same time, the local manufacturing outcome witnessed in China and India cannot be ignored, the speakers said. Big players like HP are also waiting with a bated breath to see how the whole story unfolds before unleashing to make a good sense for them.
Meanwhile supply chain is also putting pressure for sustainable and responsible products with minimum environmental impact. The conference appreciated the initiatives of global brands/retailers like Levi’s to reduce water consumption across production line up. Uniqlo another global retailer stressing on the recycling and company called DYECOO intending to reduce water consumption also got appreciation from the conference.
As of now, growth of textile digital printing is between 2-3.6 per cent of the global printing market. In the existing scenario is rotary around 65 per cent, flat bed around 25 per cent. But going forward, it expects to go up to as high as 10 per cent by 2020, according to industry experts.
Challenges ahead
However, lack of real time understanding of the technology, mindset, under utilization of machinery, the need to create the right kind of environment for getting the best results are cited as the stumbling block in the growth of digital printing. The conference observed that the digital printing shall co-exist in the near to end term basis and with the conventional printing and will not really take over the traditional industry growth despite of being very competitive. Technology should follow the history. Digital technology should complement rather than replacing conventional methods to produce sustainable and environmental friendly products.
Taiwan showcased its industry’s artistry, including areas of eco-textiles, function and fashion textiles, dyes and trimmings at the Saigontex 2016 textile exhibition, concluded recently in Ho Chi Minh City. The Taiwan Textile Federation (TTF) endorsed the island’s distinctive sample at this year’s exhibits, under the theme, Think Taiwan for Textiles.
Saigontex 2016, was held at the Saigon Exhibition and Convention Center (SECC) from March 30 to April 2, and witnessed participation of 1,063 exhibitors from across 24 countries /regions. At the exhibition, TTF promoted the island’s textile industry under three broad categories of fashion, functionality and eco-friendliness.
Export of Taiwanese products to Vietnam has seen a significant growth in the recent years, owing to the country’s trade ties under ASEAN. Moreover, Taiwan has also expressed interest in joining the TPP, of which Vietnam is already a member. Taiwan also hopes to promote a proposed Free Trade Agreement of the Asia-Pacific (FTAAP) amid multilateral efforts to boost economic integration in the region.
TTF’s Textile Export Promotion Project (TEPP), organised by Taiwan’s Ministry of Economic Affairs’ Bureau of Foreign Trade, promotes the textile industry by organising trade missions, collaborating meetings and ensuring attendance at various international shows like Saigontex. The country’s textile product quality is evident in its partnerships with brands like Decathlon, Oasis, Thai Tuan, Garmex, Lime Orange, Vinatex, Poong In and Walmart.
In its recent report, ‘The Future of Dye Sublimation Printing to 2021’, Smithers Pira tracks the increased use of this technology across key end-use segments – signage, technical, household, and garments. The data demonstrates a strong year-on-year growth of 18.4% in the amount of material printed across the next five years. This in turn is projected to increase by over 100% of the volume and value of material that is dye sublimation printed across the study period.
Smithers Pira also forecasts approximately 900,000m2 of textiles be printed with the process by 2021, the global dye sublimation print market is anticipated to grow over double in the coming five years, creating a global market worth of nearly 3 billion euros ($3.4 billion) by 2021. The increase is attributed to the broader rise of digital inkjet systems in the textile trade.
Eventually, as the dye sublimation market booms, it will create several opportunities for ink and textile suppliers, press builders, and partners across the value chain. In its analysis, Smithers also identifies five major factors that will determine the dye sublimation print market’s growth through to 2021.
"Digital printing is likely to bring high volume printing opportunities to industries such as paper, industrial surfaces of all kinds and textile. These industries are reluctant to hop on the bandwagon usually due to each application’s particular drawbacks but in most cases manufacturers are simply oblivious to the availability of digital printing’s advantages and capabilities also for high volume industries."
In today’s world, any printer can spurt out the advantages of digital printing over traditional printing. The graphic arts sector, signage and packaging industry are examples of industries which adopted digital printing technologies alongside traditional printing. Yet, some sectors are very slow to adapt to digital in spite of its advantages.
Digital printing is likely to bring high volume printing opportunities to industries such as paper, industrial surfaces of all kinds and textile. These industries are reluctant to hop on the bandwagon usually due to each application’s particular drawbacks but in most cases manufacturers are simply oblivious to the availability of digital printing’s advantages and capabilities also for high volume industries. In the textile industry, the majority of textile printing is done in traditional analogue method but there is a growing interest for digital printing on textiles. This demand may have emanated from dye sublimation printing on polyester achieved easily with a simple digital printer usually with the mediation of a transfer paper but the demand may have emanated from the textile industry’s latent acknowledgement of digital printing capabilities.
A necessity than an option
According to an industry experts, with each year passing the cost of digital printing is coming down. Very soon costs of digital printing and rotary will converge. Every year the difference is getting smaller. But the quality you get in digital you don’t get in any other form. It is impossible to get the same quality, color and depth in rotary or screen technology.
He opined that digital is environment-friendly, has no discharge, no waste. It is a totally green way of doing printing. We only print on the fabric where it is required. There is no testing or sampling required. You can print short run or long run.
Today, China is the world leader in digital printing in terms of volume. Whereas, Turkey is the leader in quality and volume put together. But India is catching up fast and it can bring the latest technology and the best pricing for customers.
Converting to digital is not an option. It is a necessity. And this is being done both for exports as well as for the domestic market.
Observed Mark Elvidge, Business Development Manager, Roland DG UK Ltd., Desk top printers have made things easy. Textile screens used to be made. It used to take 15 days to make a file. Colors were limited to eight or ten colors. Now we have 16 million colors. But, pricing is a problem. The difference is quite high. At one time the textile industry in India was dominated by small and medium units that had short runs and found this technology unviable. Now small orders of 20,000 or 30,000 meters are no big deal. At one time it used to be 500 or 1000 meters. Now, volumes have really gone high. In India there are about 150 fast machines now already installed.
Said, Smarth Bansal, Brand Manager, ColourJet that the Indian market has taken to digital textile printing and a lot of Indians across the world are buying the most expensive machines. The machines don’t use as much water as traditional printing uses. So this is a big reason for people to convert. And shorter print runs are possible. You can have a number of designs. You can have low inventory management. So we are happy with the Indian and international markets.
Water and waste management
European markets have the largest share of digital printing in the pie because of the strict laws on water saving and waste management. And these machines do exactly that. So they have taken to this technology in a very big way. But in India people evade these issues and stick to traditional printing. But the market will grow in India because India is the second largest textile exporter.
Fashion apparel means a lot of new designs a day. This is possible with digital machinery. Bansal believes in approving one design from 70 odd design options. That’s the main reason digital textile printing is in vogue. Moreover, home furnishing sector have inventory management issues. That’s why they have adopted digital textile printing.
Digital machines have an advantage when it comes to indirect cost like waste management, water use, and inventories. Anything on screen printing needs a huge amount of inventory. You have to have huge amounts of print runs. But in digital you can give a command for even ten meters. So your inventory level goes down. Your stocks go down. You can produce more number of prints and designs for your customers. It is true that with digital machines you need the numbers. The machine cost is a big capital investment. So we feel you should buy the machine only if you have a decent production. There are people who buy even for sampling because sampling is also a big job.
Enabling sustainability
According to Sri, Director South Asia-Veit Machine, the garment industry is reviving. Markets like Vietnam, Bangladesh, Indonesia, Sri Lanka are coming up well. People are more toward technological up gradations, conserving energy, investing in solar panel installations. Garment sourcing is happening from south Asia. Earlier suits were made only in Europe for quality reasons. Now they are confident countries like Vietnam, Bangladesh have the technology and skill levels. So there is a volume shift to these markets.
Production costs in China are becoming substantially higher than the other markets. But China will remain the biggest apparel manufacturer because of its domestic consumption. But production of shirts, suits which don’t have much fashion changes has started moving out of China. That has flooded the market in Sri Lanka, Bangladesh, and Vietnam. Even in India to a certain extent we could see an inflow of shirts for export. China has become considerably expensive not only because of the operating cost but because of the devaluation of the currency. This made it more expensive to produce in China.
The garment industry has been forced to take up technological advancements. Earlier the industry was not too keen on taking up technology. They looked at the accounts and not really at the overall picture. Contract labour was hired. Issues like skill they never considered. So people are now looking at technology to reduce their dependence on contract labour. Technology is not only about upgrading labour but also about saving power and enabling sustainability.
Sunder Belani, Managing Director of Ramsons is of the opinion that people are looking at sustainability, saving energy, water, reducing chemicals in the wash cycle and reducing carbon footprint. They are looking at better standards of working. They want to standardize compliance systems. Technology is not just to reduce manpower, it’s also to give a better quality and automated systems, he concluded.
Off Price New York will take place on May 2 and 3, 2016. This is a market-sized fashion and apparel tradeshow. It is a dynamic order writing show that connects apparel retail buyers of all sizes with leading off-price specialists in 20 to 70 per cent below wholesale apparel, accessories, footwear and more.
The show offers 68 booths of men’s, women’s, and children’s apparel and accessories. All the categories are well represented and there are opportunities for the entire family.
This is an intimate show where people can really sit down, evaluate opportunities, look for matches, have the opportunity to talk about things, try new things in their store, and see what everyone is offering. It’s also an opportunity to find trends that may have been missed, and to spend more time discussing options.
Off-price retailers sell clothing and accessories ranging from major label brands to private label, non-branded goods at a significant discount. When a designer or manufacturer produces more clothing than it can sell through specialty retailers or department stores, or a store can’t move all of the items in a particular line, the excess inventory is sold at a 20 to 60 per cent discount to an off-price retailer.
www.offpriceshow.com/newyork/show-dates-hours
In its 14th annual conscious actions sustainability report published recently, Hennes & Mauritz (H&M), the Swedish fast-fashion giant claimed that 78 per cent of its electricity used came from renewable sources in 2015, up from 27 per cent in 2014. At the same time, its total emissions were reduced by 56 per cent. Last year, H&M collected 12,000 tons of textiles for reuse through its in-store garment-collection program. That’s the equivalent of 65 million T-shirts.
According to Cecilia Bransten, H&M’s sustainability business expert, when it comes to engaging their customers, the garment-collecting initiative is actually the second most well-known sustainability initiative that they do, aside from their conscious collection. H&M reported that sustainably sourced materials made up 20 per cent of the total material it used, up from 14 per cent in 2014. Organic cotton, recycled cotton and Better Cotton (certified by the Better Cotton Initiative) represented 31.4 per cent of H&M’s cotton intake in 2015, versus 21.2 per cent in the previous year. The company’s goal is to only use cotton from sustainable sources by 2020 and set a timeline which will determine when they will reach a stage of using 100 percent recyclable and sustainable sources of materials. Meanwhile, with its reprocessed polyester products, the brand recycled the equivalent of 90 million PET bottles.
Canopy works to protect the world’s forests by collaborating with business leaders, scientists and decision-makers to help create sustainable supply chains and foster innovative solutions to environmental challenges. Canopy creates brand partnerships based on a policy. There is no cost to join the organization, which 105 brands and retailers have done. The movement toward a more sustainable apparel and textile supply chain has evolved in the last decade or so.
This ranges from improving the environmental impact of raw materials and manufacturing to the advent of recycled materials used in fibers and fabrics, and reuse of textiles and apparel. Technology is helping companies better trace their suppliers and manufacturers, and collaborative efforts have emerged to create more transparency and better methods of ensuring a safer route from factory to retail shelf.
Companies are creating systems and programs to achieve the goals of circularity, which brings the added benefit of avoiding compliance risks and costs in the overall product development and production process. Sustainability empowers organizations to protect the well-being of workers, reduce risk, improve productivity, enhance compliance, and drive measurable business improvement.
A growing number of businesses see the risks posed by the linear economy as an opportunity, and are preparing to progress towards a circular economy, where products and the embedded resources within them are used at maximum capacity and then regenerated at the end of their use phase for further life cycles.
The International Apparel Federation (IAF) together with Spesa and Messe Frankfurt is hosting a panel discussion at the Texprocess Fair in Atlant, Georgia on May 2, 2016. Moderated by IAF's Matthijs Crietee, the theme of the discussion will be on ‘How technology is implemented across the globe increase productivity in the apparel industry,’ which will be a fixed item on IAF’s and Messe Frankfurt’s calendar. The concept is that IAF members from all continents join in the discussion around an apparel technology management oriented theme.
In the panel discussion, the organizers will explore the most promising technologies to improve productivity. They will discuss how in different parts of the world technology is being used to improve productivity and if this is all new technology, or sometimes simply a reuse of existing methods. And specifically, the panel will explore how far automation will have proceeded in 2020. Now that the organizers can see examples of the fashion industry returning to high cost locations, leading to trends such as reshoring or newshoring, they wonder how technology is enabling these trends.
The panelists will include: Dave Gardner (Spesa), John Stern (Methods Workshop), Han Bekke (MODINT), Stefanon Festa Marzotto (Sistema Moda Italia and FBS), Mike Fralix ([TC²]), Van Tucker (Nashville Fashion Alliance), Ed Gribbin (Alvanon), Murat Aydin (TCMA and Modega) and Geoff Willis (Trigon Select).
