FW
Marks & Spencer (M&S) published its ‘2015 Plan A Report', the first since it launched the third stage of its Plan A sustainability strategy - Plan A 2020. The report has outlined a number of achievements made by the company over the last 12 months, including around 652,000 workers in M&S's clothing supply chain having received training on subjects such as financial literacy and health information and services.
M&S said that it has been working with its suppliers to help them become more efficient, reduce their environmental footprints, and provide better working conditions for their employees. As a result, 102 of its largest clothing factories have adopted energy efficiency measures, making estimated savings of 10 per cent. Now it aims to consult with customers and stakeholders on what they consider to be important about how and where M&S sources and produces its products. The retailer is hoping to respond by improving the information available by 2020.
M&S said it last year collated results from a small-scale online survey of sustainability specialists, a review of best practice by Forum for the Future, and a summary of findings from existing customers and public market research. This year, it has commissioned further research with GlobeScan, gathering the views of 172 sustainability specialists globally. In a further move to increase transparency in its supply chain, M&S plans to publish a list of its clothing suppliers - a goal the retailer said it has not yet started, but is aiming to publish by 2016.
M&S also outlined a number of new sustainable innovations, including its Footglove Earth shoes made from recycled and sustainably sourced materials. It has also started using mixed recycled fibres collected through its Shwopping clothes recycling scheme to make Topaz filling for use in mattresses. The company has also started a two-year project – Redress - with the University of Cambridge, Institute for Manufacturing, to investigate opportunities to increase the volume and value of garment recovery.
More than 25 brands and retailers, including H&M, Inditex, Levi Strauss & Co and Marks & Spencer, have pledged to phase out endangered forest fiber in their product lines. Denim brand G-Star Raw will eliminate the use of rayon and viscose fabrics derived from ancient and endangered forests. The brand will give preference to recycled and FSC-certified wood products. The brand is working with environmental organisation Canopy, which last year produced research suggesting threatened forests are routinely making their way into rayon, viscose, modal and other trademarked fabrics.
Aditya Birla, the world’s largest producer of viscose, will stop sourcing raw material from ancient and endangered forests. The Indian conglomerate said it applies to wood and pulp sourcing for all its mills, including those in Canada, Indonesia and China.
Canopy's Fashion Loved by Fashion campaign seeks to shift suppliers away from endangered forest sourcing as well as advancing long-term conservation solutions and more sustainable fabric solutions, such as recycled fabrics or non-wood fibers like straw.
This, in addition to Lenzing’s augmented sourcing policy, translates to 40 per cent of the global supply of viscose fibers being on track to avoid being sourced from endangered forests, forward conservation solutions and explore alternative inputs like recycled clothing.
The Rainforest Action Network (RAN) has protested against 15 apparel brands including Ralph Lauren, Prada, LVMH, Michael Kors, Tory Burch, Vince, Guess, Velvet, L Brands, Forever 21, Under Armour, Footlocker, Abercrombie and Fitch, GAIAM and Beyond Yoga accusing them of irresponsible fibre sourcing.
RAN protesting during the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) Fashion Awards at Lincoln Center in New York said that these brands are manufacturing merchandise at the cost of forest destruction, human rights abuses and climate pollution.
The organisation demanded that these companies must take responsibility for their supply chains, identify and eliminate bad actors, and develop strong, time bound commitments to protect forests and human rights. RAN accused that the global expansion of mega-plantations for the production of pulp for fabrics is making negative impact on the indigenous and forest-dependent communities. Illegal land grabbing according to RAN has become another major concern.
Bangladesh has decided to take stern action against garment factories that fail to conduct structural, fire and electrical assessment. Punitive action includes stopping factory production. Some 11 garment factories, which were unwilling to be assessed in the past, say they are now interested in receiving the free inspection service. Roughly 1,500 factories, which remain outside the purview of Accord and Alliance, are expected to be assessed by a government-ILO joint program and ILO is paying the cost of inspection.
The joint assessment program began in November 2013. Some 800 garment factories have so far been assessed under the initiative, while Accord and Alliance inspected their listed factories within the set timeframe. The assessment program was reportedly delayed due to non-cooperation of factory management and inconsistencies in information including factory addresses and contact numbers the ILO received from apparel industry associations.
Earlier, the deadline for the free assessment of garment factories was set at April, 30, 2015. It has since been revised to July 31. After the expiry of the revised deadline, building and factory owners have to bear the cost of assessment. The assessment covers factories that are members of either the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) or the Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA).
Pakistan's textile mills want import duty on polyester staple fiber (PSF) to be abolished. They want imports of specialty fibers including acrylic to be allowed at zero per cent import duty enabling the industry to diversify its product base.
They also want imports of viscose staple fiber, which is not being manufactured locally, to be allowed at zero per cent customs duty. The country’s textile industry is predominately cotton based with an odd fiber mix, i.e. 80 per cent cotton and 20 per cent manmade fibers. The global trend is 70 per cent manmade fibers and 30 per cent cotton.
Mills say the proposal to increase customs duty on PSF imports would not only make export-led textile goods unviable but also make PSF-based textile goods for domestic consumption unaffordable. Already, they say, cheaper imports and smuggling of fabric and synthetic yarn have made inroads into the domestic market due to the present high polyester tariff.
Pakistan’s textile industry is unable to produce the exportable surplus, in particular manmade fiber-based textile products, to benefit from the enormous opportunities under GSP Plus of export of synthetic-based textile products.
The country’s textile industry finds itself unable to compete in man-made fiber textile and clothing products owing to the protection extended to local PSF.
The Russian clothing and footwear market has been suffering due to low demand and consumer sentiment since 2014. This has forced many European brands to exit the market. China on the other hand is losing its position as the world’s leading garments manufacturer and this has opened Russia’s doors for other Asian countries.
Studies suggest that from the beginning of 2015, the Russian clothing and footwear retail market declined by 25–35 per cent in volume terms. It is, however, expected to grow at about 3.5–4 per cent by the end of the year in terms of value to reach 3.21 trillion rubles ($60.9 billion), according to Y-Сonsulting analysts’ estimates. In the first quarter of 2015, sales volume declined by 42 per cent and 19 per cent in value. The mid-range segment has experienced the most severe drop. Since 2014, many international clothing brands made an exit from the Russian market, including Italy’s OVS, British New Look and River Island, and Germany and Hong Kong headquartered Esprit, with more on their way out.
Russia opens doors to China’s neighbours
With China’s position as world’s number one destination for cheap textiles on decline, its neighbouring Asian counties such as India, Bangladesh, Vietnam, Thailand, and Indonesia have gained importance and access to the market like Russia.
Vietnam Textile & Apparel Association (VITAS) statistics reveal between 2005 and 2011, the country’s garment exports increased by 32 per cent, while China's exports increased by 15 per cent and exports from India, Turkey, Malaysia and Thailand increased by about 7 per cent. There are two major factors that make garment imports to Russia from these counties more competitive than from China, - the prices and the lower import duties imposed by the Russian government.
Bangladesh and Vietnam are on the list of seven largest apparel exporters to Russia, according to on Consulting Group data. Although their shares are not as big as China’s, the growth is more impressive. In 2012-14, imports from Bangladesh grew at 25.59 percent and Vietnam at 16.96 per cent while imports from China fell by 4.48 percent.
Vietnam National Textile and Garment Group (Vinatex) says, the European Union will continue to be Vietnam’s major market in the coming years. However, with Moscow no longer levying high tariffs on Vietnamese apparel products, its exports to Russia will increase. Recently, Vietnam signed a free trade agreement with the Eurasian Economic Union (EAEU) comprising Russia, Belarus, Armenia, Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan. Russian authorities expect this agreement to become a model for Russia’s further integration with other members of ASEAN trade bloc.
Asian imports and domestic production
While imports from emerging Asian countries to Russia are on the rise, the Russian government supports expanding domestic manufacturing capacity and improving production efficiency. There are 653 large and medium enterprises and about 4,000 small companies in Russia engaged in the garments and textile industry, according to government statistics. The industry is witnessing shoots of revivals since the crisis of 2009.
According to Souzlegprom (Russian Union of Entrepreneurs of Textile and Light Industry), domestic manufacturers benefit from Russia's Light Industry Development Strategy, which provides state support for textile and garments manufacturers, including modernization of technological base and enhancing their competitiveness, among other measures. Last year, the Russian government banned using imported textiles for manufacturing of military uniforms, leisurewear, underwear, bedclothes, hats, socks, pillows and shoes to boost domestic production.
Inspections on hundreds of small and medium-sized garment and textile factories in Vietnam will be carried out soon. The aim is to improve safety and working conditions in the sector. Another goal is to improve the knowledge and skills of labor inspectors.
Over the next five months, around 160 firms will be inspected across 12 provinces. The campaign will take place across a readymade garment sector that employs around 2.5 million workers. The companies that will be inspected will mainly be small and medium-sized enterprises, outsourcing companies, those that have no direct relationship with exporters.
Inspectors will be trained on how to plan, implement and evaluate the campaigns so that similar initiatives can be carried out in future. A risk mapping exercise was carried out in 2014. Around 25 companies in the readymade garment sector were visited by inspectors trained in standard procedures. The finding then was that there were significant risks of non-compliance in the sector and identified the main causes as poor understanding of the law and a failure to grasp the benefits of compliance.
Vietnam is a strong garment sourcing destination. Gamrents making industry is one of the most important in Vietnam, accounting for 13.6 per cent of the country's export turnover and 10.5 per cent of the country's GDP.
Pitti Uomo will be held in Italy from June 16 to 19, 2015. This event takes place twice a year and remains one of the world’s most important platforms for men’s clothing and accessory collections and for launching new projects in men’s fashion.
With its dynamic continuously evolving geography, Pitti Uomo picks up all the new moods and trends in fashion. This year, a new section goes beyond gender distinctions to dictate a precise kind of style. Unconventional will present the most vibrant voices in luxury underground styles. The future look for menswear are being explored by Futuro Maschile. There are sections dedicated to fashion research such as Touch! and l’Altro Uomo.
Women’s collections no longer be presented under a gender sign but distributed around the fair according to styling criteria. Global brands use the event to launch new projects and present new concepts. Little-known brands see Pitti Uomo as the place for establishing their identities and generating business.
Over 30,000 visitors attended the last edition representing the world’s major department stores and small retailers. Forty per cent of the vendors at this edition will be coming from more than thirty countries and there will be approximately 1150 brands.
www.pittimmagine.com/en/corporate/fairs/uomo.html
Technical Fiber Products (TFP), UK-based speciality wet-laid nonwoven manufacturer is a leading nonwoven manufacturer. The company is doubling its production capacity with the installation of a state of the art third manufacturing line. TFP’s wet laid nonwoven materials have been developed specifically to significantly improve the mechanical properties of a composite with minimal modifications to the manufacturing process necessary. The lightweight veils can be interleaved between reinforcement plies to provide a means to significantly improve the interlaminar toughness of a composite structure, increasing resistance to both mode-I and mode-II fracture.
The materials have been specifically designed to provide multiple benefits and enabling a high quality surface finish whilst simultaneously imparting surface functionality such as conductivity, EMI shielding and corrosion and abrasion resistance to a composite structure.
Other benefits include the use of dielectric nonwovens to prevent galvanic corrosion, which occurs when aluminium or other metals come into contact with carbon fiber in a composite structure.
The nonwoven provides an extremely uniform, lightweight barrier between the two materials to isolate them, stopping an electrochemical reaction occurring. In addition, the ultra lightweight veils are designed as an effective carrier or support for adhesive films, ensuring a minimum weight addition whilst improving handling and setting the bond line.
TFP’s range of fire protection materials also delivers highly effective passive fire protection at the surface of a composite without compromising the integrity of the structure.
www.tfpglobal.com/
Spinners want Tamil Nadu to reduce VAT on cotton, cotton yarn and man-made yarn to two per cent from the present five per cent. Tamil Nadu has a 55 per cent share of the total spinning capacity in India. But since cotton production in the state is insufficient, mills have to source it from other states. But logistics costs and fuel prices and various other factors have hiked their production cost making them less competitive compared to mills in other states.
Sale of cotton yarn in Tamil Nadu attracts five per cent sales tax, whereas it is only two per cent for yarn from neighboring states. This difference also increases the cost of finished goods within Tamil Nadu and on inter-state sales, making them expensive as compared to the price of yarns from other states.
Considering this, mills want Value-Added Tax (VAT) to be reduced to safeguard the spinning industry in the state and save livelihood of millions of workers in the textile industry. They also want the one per cent market cess levied on cotton waste to be abolished.
The VAT is a tax on the consumption of products. It is referred to as an indirect tax because it is typically collected by intermediaries (manufacturers, retailers etc.) rather than collected directly by the government.
