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Calling for a radical overhaul of the country’s taxation system, leaders attending a roundtable conference said, the apparel sector in Bangladesh continues to grapple with reduced government support, shrinking bank finance, and worsening energy crises.
Organised by The Business Standard on Sep 15, the roundtable conference cited procedural complexities as far outweighing the marginal incentives for export sector in the country. Voicing concerns about losing market share to competitors, Fazlee Shamim Ehsan, Executive President, Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA),urged the ‘revolutionary’ new government to introduce business-friendly policies.
Industry leaders also demanded accountability in the financial sector, particularly concerning bad loans. Shams Mahmud, Managing Director, Shasha Denim, criticised the high bank interest rates businesses face due to mismanagement, calling for both those responsible for bad loans and the bank employees who enabled them to be brought to justice.
The event also addressed labor unrest in the apparel sector. Khandoker Rafiqul Islam, President. BGMEA, stated, recent protests in the industry were driven by outsiders rather than workersHe hoped, military and law enforcement support would help resolve the issue.
Abdullah HilRakib, Senior Vice President, BGMEA pointed out, labor leaders often focus on workers’ rights but fail to emphasise their responsibilities, questioning how workers could vandalise factories where they’ve been employed for years.
Showkat Aziz Russell, President, Bangladesh Textile Mills Association (BTMA), urged the government to prioritise restoring law and order, ensuring uninterrupted power and energy supply, and easing access to financing for industries. He also highlighted the failure of the previous government to ensure a reliable energy supply despite raising prices.
MA Jabbar, Managing Director, DBL Group, emphasized on the need for a stable business environment, improved energy supply, and greater support from the new government to achieve Bangladesh’s $100 billion export target.
Warning that power outages were damaging machinery in factories, raising long-term costs, Mahmud urged the government to plan for zero carbon emissions by 2030 to stay competitive in international markets.
Inching closer to its target of achieving £1 billion in annual profitNext has raised its profit forecast for FY24 to £995 million, following a 23 percent increase in international sales in the six months to July.
This growth has helped the retailer offset a nearly 1 percent drop in UK sales of Next-branded clothing, with total group sales rising by 8 percent and pre-tax profits growing 7.2 percent to £452 million.
Next attributes the rise in its international sales to the growing convergence of global fashion tastes, fueled by the influence of tech platforms and improved global delivery networks, which make it easier for consumers to explore and purchase clothing from different countries. However, the retailer notes, while international tastes are becoming more aligned, cultural and climatic differences still exist.
Simon Wolfson, CEO, Next, states, more than half of the company’s sales now come from online channels and rapid growth in non-Next brands, which make up 17 percent of overseas sales. The group is expanding its wholly owned labels, such as Cath Kidston and Love & Roses, following the acquisition of these brands.
Next has also been expanding its international presence through partnerships. It has signed a deal with Indian retailer Myntra to develop online and physical stores, and it is strengthening its collaboration with US department store Nordstrom, now offering childrenswear in its stores. The company is also eyeing potential partnerships in Japan, China, and Australia.
To better serve international customers, Next plans to enhance its shipping hubs in the Middle East and Europe. The retailer’s full-price sales rose by 4.4 percent during the six-month period, and better-than-expected performance in the weeks that followed boosted sales by 6.9 percent. The retailer now expects second-half sales to increase by 3.7 percent, up from previous forecasts of 2.5 percent.
Kipaş Denim has introduced Contra Denim-a new fabric collection designed to be more compatible with sustainable finishing technologies. This laser- and laundry-friendly range achieves vintage effects and high contrast on denims while minimising environmental impact.
Developed in collaboration with chemical company Archroma, Contra Denim utilizes Archroma’s Denim Halo approach, which incorporates resource-saving pretreatment and dyeing processes to make fabrics easier to wash and laser. The Denim Halo method includes Dirso lRD, a pretreatment applied to dry denim yarn in the first box of the dyeing machine, explained Umberto De Vita, Archroma’s market segment director for denim.
Launched earlier this year, Archroma’s Denim Halo platform significantly reduces the environmental footprint of traditional denim finishing. It also reduces yarn shrinkage and improves garment tensile strength. Denim Halo technologies feature Denisol Pure Indigo 30 LIQ, Diresul Smart denim Blue, and Diresul Evolution Black.
Contra Denim’s vintage aesthetics are achieved using laser marking technology from Spanish firm Jeanologia, eliminating the need for harmful manual processes like hand scraping and potassium permanganate spraying. The collection is available in black and indigo. The Contra Black range earned a low Jeanologia Environmental Impact Measurement (EIM) score of 11 on stone washing, compared to the market standard of 67, highlighting its reduced water and energy consumption, lower chemical impact, and improved worker safety.
Hosted on Sep 13, 2024 by Uzbekistan, the inaugural Global Textile Dialogue Forum underscored Uzbekistan’s commitment to elevate its role in the global textile industry.
The forum reinforced Uzbekistan’s dedication to enhancing its position in the global textile market through strategic partnerships, sustainable practices, and continuous innovation. Gathering textile associations from approximately 20 countries, along with diplomatic representatives and over 150 local entrepreneurs, the event demonstrated Uzbekistan’s emerging role on the global textile stage.
Attendees at the forum engaged in discussions on critical industry topics, including value creation in supply chain, the impact of artificial intelligence, production digitisation, challenges and opportunities within the textile sector.
The forum focused on the GIZ funded Social & Labour Convergence Program (SLCP) pilot project that aims to improve working conditions across global supply chains while supporting the sustainable development of Uzbekistan’s textile and garment industries. To be implemented at selected enterprises, this pilot project will benefit from the expertise of two social compliance specialists and will be verified by an SLCP-approved organization. This marks a key step in positioning Uzbekistan as a reliable and responsible sourcing hub.
The GTD forum also highlighted the substantial benefits available to local entrepreneurs, driven by strong government support. Tax incentives and simplified regulations have created a favourable environment for the growth of the textile sector. Additionally, the development of specialised industrial zones with tailored infrastructure and services was identified as a critical factor in attracting investment.
The event further explored opportunities for expanding international trade. During his presentation, Mohammad Monirul Islam, Ambassador of Bangladesh to Uzbekistan, highlighted the potential for enhanced cooperation, leveraging historical ties and geographic advantages. Future collaborations are expected to extend beyond cotton yarn trade to include employment opportunities, knowledge exchange, and advancements in education and scientific fields.
Accusing Japanese apparel manufacturer FullCount Co of violating previous court orders by continuing to manufacture and sell garments that infringe Levi’s famous trademark, Levi Strauss & Co has filed a new lawsuit against the company in the US District Court for the Northern District of California.
The lawsuit claims, acting in ‘contempt of [the] court,’ FullCount continues to produce items that feature ‘nearly-identical copies’ of Levi’s Tab, Arcuate stitching, and ‘501’ trademarks, despite being under permanent injunctions from earlier legal actions in 2007 and 2016.
One product at the center of this dispute is FullCount’s ‘1933 501 jeans,; which prominently display the words ‘LEVI,’ ‘501,’ and ‘San Francisco,; along with a pocket flasher that closely resembles Levi’s Guarantee Ticket trademark. Levi’s alleges that these actions are part of a strategy by FullCount to ‘co-opt [its] brand and reputation,’ violating the court’s previous rulings.
This lawsuit follows a decade-long legal battle between the two companies. Despite previous injunctions barring FullCount from using Levi’s trademarks without permission, Levi’s claims that the company has continued to infringe on its marks, including by manufacturing and promoting infringing products more aggressively in recent years.
Levi’s seeks sanctions against FullCount for its ‘willful and blatant; violations of court orders. In addition to claims of contempt, Levi’s is pursuing allegations of trademark infringement, counterfeiting, and trademark dilution, arguing that FullCount’s actions demonstrate a ‘malicious intent’ to counterfeit Levi’s federally registered trademarks. The lawsuit also names U.S. retailers Franklin and Poe Trust Company LLC and Standard & Strange as defendants for selling the infringing products.
Levi’s asserts that FullCount’s misuse of its iconic Tab and ‘501’ trademarks, along with its Arcuate stitching design, is likely to cause consumer confusion and damage the distinctiveness of Levi’s brand, furthering its claims of unfair competition and trademark dilution.
Valued at $10 billion in 2024, the global spandex market is projected to grow to $21.9 billion by 2034, expanding at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 8.1 per cent over the decade. As per a report by FactMR, this growth will bedriven by the increasing use of spandex in various industries, including medical textiles, where it is utilised in compression garments such as bandages, surgical hoses, and support garments. Spandex’s lightweight and flexible properties make it ideal for sportswear and activewear, like swimsuits and workout clothing.
Additionally, spandex is widely used in socks to improve fit and elasticity, as well as in incontinence products and diapers. The demand for diapers is expected to rise significantly, particularly in countries such as China and India, which will contribute to market growth. In 2024, the spandex market in the US is expected to reach $1.2 billion, while the value of Japan’s spandex market is projected to rise to $600 million during the year. China will hold a 53.4 per cent sharein the East Asia Spandex market that is projected to grow at a CAGR of 8.5 per cent through 2034.
Essential in sports clothing due to its ability to enhance comfort and prevent injuries caused by excessive fabric stretching, spandex was traditionally produced using petroleum-based raw materials like Polytetramethylene Ether Glycol (PTMEG) and Diphenylmethanediisocyanate (MDI). However, with growing sustainability concerns, manufacturers are shifting toward producing bio-based and eco-friendly spandex. In April 2024, the world’s largest spandex manufacturer, Hyosung announced the development of a $1 billion facility in Vietnam that will use Genomatica’s fermentation technology to convert sugar into 1,4-butanediol (BDO), a spandex precursor traditionally derived from coal or natural gas. By 2026, Hyosung plans to produce 50,000 metric tons of bio-based BDO annually, increasing to 200,000 metric tons by 2035.
This shift reflects the spandex industry’s increasing commitment to sustainability, as it reduces reliance on petroleum and coal, with many Chinese BDO plants still using coal as a primary raw material.
The global apparel industry continues to go through dynamic landscape, with leading brands vying for dominance in a competitive market. Latest financial performance data compiled by Statista reveals, Inditex, the parent company of Zara, has further solidified its position as the world's leading apparel retailer. In fact, there is a widening gap between Inditex and its closest competitors, H&M and Fast Retailing’s brand Uniqlo.
Inditex takes the lead worldwide
Inditex reported impressive total sales of $38.9 billion, significantly outpacing its closest competitor, H&M, which recorded $22.8 billion in sales. Inditex's sales figures underscore the effectiveness of its fast-fashion model, characterized by rapid trend adaptation and a vast global supply chain. This strategy has allowed the company to consistently capture consumer demand, even amidst a challenging economic climate.
Table: Financial performance of the top 10 apparel retailers
|
Brand |
Total sales (in $ bn) |
|
Inditex (Zara) |
38.9 |
|
H&M |
22.8 |
|
Fast Retailing |
18.3 |
|
Gap |
14.8 |
|
Lululemon |
9.6 |
|
PVH |
9.2 |
|
Next |
6.9 |
|
Ralph Lauren |
6.4 |
|
Victoria's Secret |
6.1 |
|
American Eagle |
5.2 |
Swedish brand H&M, still a significant player, trails behind with total sales of $22.8 billion. The company has been grappling with excess inventory and a slower pace of adaptation to changing consumer preferences, impacting its financial performance. Fast Retailing, the owner of Uniqlo, secured the third position with total sales of $18.3 billion, further highlighting the prominence of fast-fashion brands in the global apparel market. However, the company's focus on affordable basics and innovative fabrics has resonated with consumers, but it faces intense competition in the fast-fashion space.
Lower in the list, Gap continues to struggle, posting sales of $14.8 billion. The company has been undergoing a restructuring process, including store closures and brand realignments, in an attempt to revitalize its business. And Lululemon, with its focus on athleisure wear, continues to demonstrate strong growth, achieving sales of $9.6 billion. The company's premium positioning and emphasis on community building have contributed to its success. The performance of other leading brands showcases the diverse nature of the industry.
Highlights of the data
• Inditex's dominance: One major highlight is Inditex's substantial lead underscores its effective strategy and strong market presence. The company's focus on rapid inventory turnover and trend-driven designs has resonated with consumers globally.
• Fast Fashion's strength: The strong performance of Inditex, H&M, and Fast Retailing reaffirms the continued popularity of fast fashion. These brands offer consumers affordable and trendy clothing options, driving significant sales growth.
• Diverse market: The presence of established brands like Gap, luxury players like Ralph Lauren, and athleisure brands like Lululemon highlights the diverse nature of the apparel market. Each brand caters to specific consumer preferences and market segments.
Despite the numerous challenges the global apparel industry faces with supply chain disruptions, rising costs, and increasing competition, there are numerous opportunities for growth, particularly in e-commerce and sustainable fashion. Overall, the financial performance stats provide valuable insights into the competitive landscape of the global apparel industry. While Inditex currently holds a commanding lead, the market remains dynamic, with brands continuously adapting to meet the evolving demands of consumers.
The fiber, yarn, and fabric industry is entering 2025 with a renewed sense of resilience and adaptation. While recent years have presented significant challenges, including supply chain disruptions, rising costs, and increased focus on sustainability, industry leaders are demonstrating a commitment to innovation and collaboration to navigate these obstacles.
Navigating supply chain disruptions
Businesses are increasingly adopting multi sourcing strategies and establishing production facilities closer to their main markets to reduce reliance on long-distance shipping and mitigate the impact of global disruptions. Moreover, companies are investing in real-time tracking systems and data analytics to optimize operations and ensure a resilient supply chain network. Collaborations across the supply chain are becoming more critical, with companies fostering strategic partnerships with local and international suppliers to improve agility and responsiveness.
Addressing rising costs and sustainability
Many companies are exploring renewable energy solutions to stabilize power costs and improve sustainability. And the rise in misleading environmental claims has led businesses to strengthen their traceability efforts through technologies like block chain-based digital passports. Companies are also developing sustainable solutions as they invest in research and development to create innovative materials and processes that meet both aesthetic and environmental standards. Transparency and traceability too are in focus as brands and consumers increasingly demand transparency about the origin and production processes of textiles. Solutions like block chain-based digital passports and DNA tagging are being adopted to ensure traceability and combat fraudulent claims.
Industry trends
Certain clear trends have emerged in the industry viz:
Nearshoring: Establishing production facilities closer to major markets is a growing trend, improving efficiency and responsiveness to customer demands. Companies like UNIFI are leveraging regional production chains to reduce lead times and ensure faster delivery to customers.
Digitalization: Technology adoption, such as real-time tracking and data analytics, enables companies to optimize operations and enhance supply chain visibility.
Sustainability: Investments in sustainable materials, recycling technologies, and circular practices are reshaping the industry's landscape. Companies like ISKO and NILIT are investing in research and development to create innovative, eco-friendly materials and processes. Collaboration with partners and a circular approach to design are becoming the norm.
Collaboration: Partnerships and collaborations across the supply chain are crucial for addressing challenges, sharing knowledge, and fostering innovation.
Improved planning and forecasting: Companies are focusing on better planning, communication, and forecasting to cope with unpredictable demand and disruptions. This includes investing in real-time tracking systems and data analytics.
Outlook for 2025 Industry leaders remain optimistic about the future, despite ongoing challenges. Companies that embrace innovation, invest in technology, and prioritize sustainability are expected to thrive in 2025. The industry is poised to emerge stronger, more resilient, and better equipped to meet the evolving demands of the market. Overall, the industry is moving towards a more sustainable, transparent, and resilient future. By prioritizing innovation, collaboration, and adaptability, fiber, yarn, and fabric businesses are well-positioned to overcome future challenges and meet the evolving demands of the market.
YKK Corporation (Tokyo, President Hiroaki Otani) has introduced a revived renewal series aimed at extending the life of textile products, focusing on the fashion industry’s growing need for sustainability. With repair-oriented solutions becoming more critical, YKK’s new replacement elements for Vislon zippers allow for quicker, targeted repairs. Using a special tool, damaged elements can now be replaced without removing entire zippers, significantly reducing repair time at brand repair centers.
The initiative aims to combat the environmental impact caused by the large-scale disposal of apparel products. By simplifying zipper repair processes, YKK’s solution encourages longer usage of clothing and reduces waste. This renewed product line is expected to make repairs more efficient, promoting a shift towards a circular fashion economy.
YKK plans to continue expanding the series while addressing broader environmental challenges in the apparel industry's supply chains. The company’s efforts align with its goal of enabling consumers to maintain their favorite clothing items longer, contributing to a sustainable future.
As ITMA ASIA + CITME approaches, Karl Mayer Group is set to open a new showroom at its Changzhou facility on October 13. This launch, part of an in-house event running until October 18, will showcase a curated selection of textile innovations and trends from the group’s diverse business units in a 480 square meters space.
A key highlight of the new showroom is Stoll's TexLab, which has been strategically positioned to foster collaboration. Instead of multiple smaller showrooms, the decision was made to establish a single, expansive TexLab at Karl Mayer (China). This setup enables seamless integration with Stoll's research and production departments, providing customers with a unified experience from machine design to the final product. The central TexLab is specifically designed to enhance the industry's ability to quickly adapt to market demands, particularly in China, where speed is essential for developing new materials and designs.
The Stoll TexLab will serve as a dynamic hub where customers can engage in concept development, experiment with yarns, and create patterns with Stoll’s application engineers. It will also facilitate collaboration with local yarn suppliers and support various target groups, including designers and textile institutions.
The showroom features an extensive array of patterns, expert consultations, and Stoll machines, including the newly installed CMS 530 in gauge E20, tailored for high-quality flat knit garments. The space aims to blend technical prowess with an inviting atmosphere, offering visitors a chance to explore new designs, test materials, and engage with experts in a relaxed setting.
Local clients and attendees of ITMA ASIA + CITME in nearby Shanghai are expected to visit, benefiting from the proximity of the new showroom to the trade fair.
