FW
UK and the US demand in contrast
While in the UK, product orders for premium and luxury market (averaging $315 for a pair of women’s jeans dropped by 24 per cent, they increased by 9 per cent in the US where the average pair’s price is $179. However, in the UK, in the mass market (jeans for $57) and value market (jeans for $26), product arrivals were up 29 per cent and 58 per cent. In the US, these markets, with jeans respectively at $69 and $30 on average, decreased by 2 per cent and 8 per cent.
The study further goes on to show that luxury products saw greatest discounts. Only 45 per cent of sales were made at full price, as compared with 65 per cent in the premium market and 61 per cent for those in the mass and value market. The major retailers selling denim included Asos for both countries for the mass market segment, and Nordstrom in the United States and Farfetch'D in the UK for luxury and premium segments. The most stocked brands for men were Levi's, 7 for all mankind and Diesel in the US, and Diesel, Levi's and G-Star in the UK. The most stocked brands for women included 7 for all mankind in the US, followed by J. Brand and Paige Denim, while in the UK, J. Brand, G-Star and 7 for all mankind occupied the top spots.
Editd’s study also reveals that the notion that rise of fitness apparel has had a negative impact on denims is not entirely true. While new arrivals of leggings, jeggings and other sweatpants almost doubled between January 2014 and January 2015, denim arrivals were also 31 percent higher. But while sales of casual pants were up 114 percent, sales of denim posted over 45 percent rise. Over the course of two years, sales curves essentially followed the same trends. editd.com
Sustainability will be one of the main topics at the Kingpins Show in Amsterdam to be held from April 16 to 18, 2015. Kingpins is an international denim sourcing show. This event showcases innovation, sustainability and craftsmanship in the apparel and clothing, textile, fabrics, yarns and fashion accessories industries.
This edition will feature a concept called ‘Transformers’. Transformers are people in the denim supply chain who recognize that they need to invest in new and better ways to produce denim, from making dye stuffs to manufacturing fibers and finishing garments, to make the industry environmentally and financially sound by 2029.
There will be a panel discussion on water use in producing denim. A selection of people involved in the denim supply chain will present their concepts for change in their specific area. The panel will end with conclusions and industry suggestions, all with input from an audience of denim professionals.
A pair of jeans requires huge amounts of water at all stages of the manufacturing process. Transformers are those who offer new technologies and alternative practices to significantly reduce the jean industry’s water usage.
A special ‘Denim Days’ program will be carried out throughout Amsterdam from April 13 to18, with a range of events and activities in and around the most important denim stores in Amsterdam. This will provide an opportunity for denim brands, producers, consumers, press and designers to celebrate all things indigo.
www.amsterdamdenimdays.com/kingpins-show-15-16-april/
On February 12, Première Vision Paris closed its doors on the first fully integrated edition. The event was roaring success. After three days of strong business, fruitful meetings and professional exchanges, the show at the Parc des Expositions de Paris Nord Villepinte was a unique event, once again earning strong support of the global fashion industry. Exhibitors and visitors alike affirmed the positivity with high quality contacts and growing sales activities and international visibility, Première Vision Paris, through its six shows, stood out as an important seasonal event.
Around 58,443 visitors visited Première Vision Paris, but steady growth in the visitors at 73 percent showed a slight decline of 5 percent against February 2014 edition. The decrease in attendance was largely due to a decline in Russian visitors, a result of economic and political instability, and a drop in American attendees, whose presence was affected by the New York Fashion Week, held the same week.
Organisers claim that the shows took place in an increasingly complex and evolving international economic and political environment, which could have had much more serious consequences owing to a decline in the global consumption of textiles and apparel, especially in Europe; a slowdown in exports of luxury products towards hitherto untouched territories such as China, but also and especially the Russian market, penalized by a 40 percent devaluation of the ruble since January 2014 and the situation in Ukraine and increasingly concentrated apparel companies, leading to a reduced number of players on the global fashion scene. www.premierevision.com
Eight handloom weavers from Zambia are set to promote higher quality artisanal textile production in their home country having received training in Tamil Nadu. Zambian handloom weavers received training at the Indian Institute of Handloom Technology (IIHT) in Salem on textile design, block printing, use of sophisticated handlooms and quality management.
During the training period of two months they visited several handloom cluster sites in Tamil Nadu. The weavers will spearhead ITC’s pilot handloom cluster development project in Zambia. They will become the lead trainers of project beneficiaries in two cluster locations in Lusaka and Mumbwa. The master weavers will be linked up with stakeholders in Lusaka and cotton farming communities in the district of Mumbwa who are waiting to receive training.
The Zambian pilot handloom cluster development project is part of a larger EU-financed program for African cotton promotion and value addition. This program seeks to introduce low cost traditional techniques to stimulate artisanal textile production and competitiveness, and to build linkages to regional and international markets.
The project has supported weavers to build value addition skills and move up the competitive ladder along the cotton value chain. The cotton handloom sector in Zambia has the potential to contribute substantially to employment creation and poverty reduction.
US organic cotton growers have planted the most acreage in 2014 since 1995. This despite grappling with limited seed supplies, persistent weeds and a shortage of seasonal labour, finds a report published recently. The Organic Trade Association (OTA), in its report titled ‘Preliminary 2014 US Organic Cotton Production & Marketing Trends’, reported a 14 per cent increase in organic cotton acres planted in 2014, from 15,973 in 2013 to 18,234, representing the largest planted organic cotton acreage in this country in almost 20 years.
OTA is committed to promote the growth of organic cotton industry and the organic fiber sector. The OTA report is based on a survey conducted in December of organic cotton growers in Arizona, California, New Mexico, North Carolina and Texas. West Texas is the leading organic cotton region in the country. As per the report, organic cotton acreage has been slowly but steadily growing for the past several years. In 2013, acres planted rose 6 per cent to 14,787. Production increased by almost 20 per cent to 10,335 bales in 2014.
Commercial supplies of organic seed continue to be another major hurdle, with genetically modified (GM) seeds now dominating the marketplace. US organic cotton growers enjoy a healthy market for their products, and command a premium over non-organic cotton. Sales of organic cotton have grown significantly in recent years as consumers seek out sustainable, chemical-free fiber. Organic fiber is now the largest non-food organic category in the market, with organic fiber sales in the US closing in on $1 billion in 2013.
Bangladesh's Accord on Fire and Building Safety will have another licensee in the form of the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill for producing UNC-logoed clothing in the country. This policy will affect each new license contract and renewal for UNC-logoed goods, said the university. All existing licensees are already members of the Accord.
Following the collapse of Rana Plaza factory building in Dhaka nearly two years ago in which more than 1,100 people had lost their lives, nearly 200 companies have signed the Accord. The Accord includes independent safety inspections at factories and public reporting of the results of these inspections.
After an eight-month review of both the Accord and Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety as well as its UNC’s own research, the university has opted for membership of the Accord.
Chancellor Carol Folt is reported to have said that the decision reaffirms UNC’s commitment to worker safety in Bangladesh and clarifies its position on the requirements for licensees that make UNC-logoed clothing in Bangladesh. The university will also provide an update via an annual system-wide review in January next year.
Munich ISPO saw very high attendance. It's a key European sporting goods and apparel trade show and was held from February 5-8. The event very saw the participation of 100 countries including China, Turkey, Spain, Great Britain, Northern Ireland and the United States who saw their numbers grow. Among the 2,585 exhibitors, health and fitness segments saw the largest footfalls at the event held on 1.1 million sq. ft. area and 16 halls. As per Klaus Dittrich, President of Messe München, Ispo’s organizer, health and fitness is a fast-growing market. Since last year, ISPO has devoted an entire hall to the segment, with health and well-being are becoming increasingly important values. This trend creates new opportunities for the sports market, he observed.
As per a survey conducted at the show, the latest edition satisfied as many as 74 per cent exhibitors. Chinese sports goods supplier 361°, which is beginning to develop in Europe and was participating for the first time in the Munich show, were satisfied with the response. German brand Schöffel indicated that there were more contractors this year, including business leaders.
EMEA vice president Olivier Cantet found the show useful helping to boost morale. One saw energy in the sector, new brands, new products, their development, trends, and accordingly plan for 2015-16, she observed. The next edition of Ispo Munich will be held from January 24-27,
Around four garment manufacturing units and over a dozen cars were damaged by a group of factory workers in Udyog Vihar, who got agitated over the rumoured death of their fellow worker working at Gaurav International.
According to report, Shammi, a quality checking staff of Gaurav International, a garment manufacturing unit in Udyog Vihar Phase III reached 10 minutes late to work. The guard on duty stopped and slapped him for coming in late for duty which led to a heated argument. The incident was followed by personnel manager of the unit along with four other guards thrashing the worker due to which he collapsed on the spot.
The worker was then rushed to the hospital, which led to rumours of his death. Fellow workers could not take it lightly and a mob of around 200 workers damages cars and manufacturing units to express their anger. Workers were also agitated since the guards and manager in question, who beat the worker were not arrested.
Lyocell fiber giant Lenzing has launched a new micro version of its tencel A100 fiber which has been specially developed for use in knitwear production and blends with wool and synthetic fibers. The Grimsby, UK, tencel plant specialises in the A100. Conventional A100 is mainly used for all fiber types for high end fashion, but the new micro version of A100 is said to be most appropriate for wool, silk and synthetics for sportswear and knit fashion.
The trend now is that people want to have a fabrics that better fits their shape, which are also finer and more lightweight. The A100 micro fiber fulfils the needs of these properties, which is one of its biggest advantages. A very interesting characteristic of the A100 version is that the color can be very intense, especially with black fibers. There is quite a significant difference in longevity between it and regular fibers.
Austria-based Lenzing group supplies the global textile and nonwovens industry with high quality man-made cellulose fibers. The portfolio ranges from dissolving pulp, standard and specialty cellulose fibers to engineering services. It’s the only company combining the manufacturing of all three man-made cellulose fiber generations on a large industrial scale under one roof – classic viscose to modal and lyocell fibers.
C.L.A.S.S. is taking its Spring/Summer 2016 collections of exclusive eco-materials, certified and carefully selected for their innovative characteristics through its second World Class Tour that began in Milan on February 3. The tour will now move to Copenhagen on February 23, then London on February 25, Madrid on March 3 and will conclude in New York on March 13.
The C.L.A.S.S. S/S 2016 World Class Tour premieres the latest, exclusive and innovative collections and trends for sustainable fabrics at the international fashion capitals of the world. C.L.A.S.S. is the style and international network platform that promotes the latest sustainable fabrics for the designer collections of tomorrow. According to the trend-watchers at C.L.A.S.S., S/S 2016 will be characterised by the contrast of strong emotions and softer contradictions, just like an emotional journey. There are two key trends: Unconventional Mellow - chromatic dynamism and multi-coloured patterns, which will have fabrics with shiny effects, geometric prints, drawn lines, irregular jacquards and light embossing. Next is Emotional Resonance having reliefs, circular knits, striped fabrics and denim looks.
The new products presented in the showrooms of C.L.A.S.S. employ yarns and fibres of the highest technological content for fabrics of the finest silk, 100 per cent bio cotton, knits, and the woolen fabrics.
www.classecohub.org
