Amazon is currently being plowed down by cattle farmers producing leather for the fashion industry, say researchers from sustainability nonprofits Slow Factory Foundation and Stand.earth. Researchers have identified dozens of fashion brands whose factories source hides from the Amazon, including Nike, Adidas, American Eagle Outfitters, H&M, Zara, Coach, and Cole Haan. The destruction of the Amazon rainforest is moderating climate change by reducing its ability to absorb carbon dioxide. Fashion brands are adding to this problem by sourcing leather from the Amazon. They should instead opt more sustainable leather alternatives, says the study.

Buyers to be blamed for climate change

Known as the world’s carbon sink, the Amazon rainforest plays a vital role in keeping the earth’s temperature’s stable. However, fire and deforestation are destroying this vast jungle, says a study in the July edition of the scientific journal Nature.

Greg Higgs, Director-Research, Stand.earth, points out instead of small-scale farmers, many of whom live below the poverty line and big companies buying their cattle hides should be blamed. Stand.earth traced the journey of these hides and which industries are buying them. Through custom and export data it identifies two main industries buying it: auto industry, which uses the leather in car seats; fashion industry, which uses it in shoes, handbags, and accessories.

Research by Slow Factory shows, cow hides are moving from leather tanneries in Brazil to leather manufacturers in many countries and then to fashion brands that turn the leather into products. Factories of over100 brands source leather from Brazil, many of which are some of the biggest labels in the world.

According to Higgs, companies work with leather factories that source from many countries, including Brazil, India, and China. Since all the leather is combined once it arrives at the factory, the brands can claim they have no way to tell if they’re using Brazilian leather sourced from the Amazon. Companies often use this as an excuse to keep using these factories.

Brands can be the change

While fashion companies contribute to the problem, they can also help bring about systemic change, opines Celine Semaan, Co-founder and CEO, Slow Factory. They can compel the Brazilian government to regulate the deforestation of the rainforest. Consumers can also cancel brands.

Brands and consumers can address this problem by auditing their supply chains in a better way, force tanneries and manufacturers they work with to disclose where they source their leather, and direct them to stop buying from suppliers contributing to deforestation. They can also pledge to stop buying leather from suppliers that can’t trace where their leather is from, in order to ensure that none of their products are contributing to deforestation.

The Slow Factory itself has partnered with MIT to develop Slowhide, a material that mimics leather but is all natural and plant based. Similarly, a company called Mylo has developed a leather alternative made from mushrooms that is used by brands like Lululemon and Stella McCartney. Consumers can also play a role by refusing to buy from brands that don’t commit to more sustainable practices. Slow Factory urges people to sign a petition demanding that brands and manufacturers fix problems in their supply chain to stop deforestation.