Chanel, the world's second-largest luxury brand, hosted a spectacular Metiers D’Art show in Hangzhou, China, amidst swirling rumors about its next artistic director. The event, attended by 1,100 guests, including stars like Tilda Swinton and Lupita Nyong’o, highlighted Chanel’s focus on its very important clients (VICs), who spend upwards of $20,000 annually.
China's slowing luxury market has affected global brands, including Chanel, which reported $20 billion in revenue for 2023. Chanel's president, Bruno Pavlovsky, highlighted the importance of re-establishing connections with Chinese customers, emphasizing the brand's strategic focus on the region following the challenges of the Covid-19 pandemic.
Choosing Hangzhou over fashion hubs like Shanghai was a nod to the city’s artisanal silk heritage and Coco Chanel’s Coromandel screen collection, which inspired the show’s lakefront setting and floral motifs. The collection blended Chanel’s iconic bouclé coats with local silks, jade knits, and pleated skirts, though some designs lacked cohesion.
While the event celebrated craftsmanship, questions linger about Chanel’s creative future. The absence of a bold artistic vision underscored the need for a new designer capable of delivering innovative, exciting fashion that captivates clients and critics alike. For now, Chanel is focused on strengthening ties with its loyal clientele, even as the industry eagerly awaits its next creative leader.
