The UN has banned North Korea from exporting its textiles. The ban is expected to disrupt a business largely based in China and pose compliance headaches for clothing retailers around the world. More significantly it will hurt North Koreans, create difficulties for ordinary workers and their ability to make a livelihood.

Textiles are North Korea’s biggest exports after coal and other minerals. Nearly 80 per cent of these textile exports go to China. A lot of North Korean textile trade to Europe and other places goes via China. Despite tightening sanctions, trade in non-banned goods including food and other daily necessities continues between China and North Korea carried by hundreds of trucks crossing back and forth every day. But enforcing the textile ban along North Korea’s long border with China can be difficult. Goods are smuggled across, often on boats at night. Another challenge is that clothes can be partly made in China and partly in North Korea with a Made in China label attached to the finished product. Even if a label says Made in China, the buttons may come from Italy, the cotton may come from Australia or India, the labor may come from North Korea or China, the accessories may come from Bangladesh.