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"Even though in the Global Fashion Agenda, sustainability has been this season’s must have accessory, almost half of fashion industry is yet to take any action on it. The term has been reduced to self-serving market jargon used by brands to perk up sales. As Orsola de Castro, Co-Founder of Fashion Revolution notes, big brands usually associate th2e word ‘sustainability’ with something unobtainable. However, smaller labels and independent designers are effectively creating their garments in the most conscious way."
Even though in the Global Fashion Agenda, sustainability has been this season’s must have accessory, almost half of fashion industry is yet to take any action on it. The term has been reduced to self-serving market jargon used by brands to perk up sales. As Orsola de Castro, Co-Founder of Fashion Revolution notes, big brands usually associate th2e word ‘sustainability’ with something unobtainable. However, smaller labels and independent designers are effectively creating their garments in the most conscious way. The key to their success is their consideration for the environment, believes Clair Bergkamp, Head of Sustainability and Innovation at Stella McCartney. She advises brands to incorporate sustainability right from the inception of their operations.
Environmentalist advice focus on organic and recycled materials
Few leading designers are embracing sustainability by using recycled materials and deadstock fabrics. For
instance, womenswear designer Richard Malone works with nylon recycled from ocean plastics. Designer Bethany Williams sources her recycled denim from a waste depository in Kent and turns waste paper into woven textiles. Dutch designer Duran Lantink splices second-hand designer clothes into mash-up hybrids. Phoebe English sources all her organic recycled materials from Britain to reduce carbon footprint, while Stella McCartney recycled deadstock from previous collections into an entirely new one at Paris Fashion Week this season.
Bergkamp further advises these brands to focus on their fabrics, use organic cotton, recycled polyester and nylon, chose a viscose supplier that can guarantee they do not destroy ancient and endangered forests for their fibre, use hemp and linen and don’t use leather.
Independent suppliers, plant-based materials to deal with sustainability
One of the biggest issues the fashion industry faces in implementing sustainability is the arcane supply chain that is difficult to trace. To deal with this, new platforms such as the Open Apparel Registry are emerging to map out garment factories across the globe to encourage consumer transparency. Designers are also working with independent suppliers who are controlling their environmental impact. Richard Malone, for instance, uses plant-based dyes for his fabrics, many of which are recycled and made by a community of women who dye all the yarn, spin and hand-weave the fabric in Tamil Nadu.
According to Francois Sourchet, Head, Make Fashion Circular campaign, another method through which brands can reduce wastes is through repairing, customising, swapping, donating or resale. He believes if the clothing has been made from safe and renewable materials, and designed to be recycled, it can feed back into the system and be used to make new clothing.
New e-com channels and partnerships
The internet offers lots of information on the source of these clothes. De Castro believes consumers need to patiently go through this information, to read between the lines, and question everything, and then rely on their gut instincts to discern what feels relevant. Many companies are developing plant-based materials as an alternative to animal products. One such company Bolt Threads makes silk from protein, created using fermentation, and leather made from mycelium, the root structure of mushrooms.
For many, sustainability starts with limiting their production and building meaningful relationships with retailers and individual clients. This may also include working outside of the conventional fashion calendar, or simply partnering with recycled textile suppliers and designing smaller collections around those materials that are available. To achieve this, brands may have to ask their customers to wait longer for their clothes or make clothes only when required. They need to also employ the most appropriate business besides entering into new partnerships and collaborations. Only then, their goal of sustainability can be achieved.
ALBSTADT, Germany — December 18, 2018 — Mayer & Cie. (MCT) has since December had a new line of business. From January 2019, the company is manufacturing braiding machines in addition to circular knitting machines at its Albstadt works. Mayer Braidtech, a wholly owned Mayer & Cie. subsidiary, is responsible for sales and service of the new machines, manufactured for the past 40 years by US-based affiliate Mayer Industries. With Mayer Industries due to cease operations in the medium term, Mayer & Cie. has decided to integrate and take forward this successful line of business at its Albstadt location.
Good reasons for braiding machines
“We see this step as an opportunity to come much closer to our target of sensible diversification,” says Marcus Mayer, managing director at Mayer & Cie. and in charge of technical development. “As a manufacturer of circular knitting machines we are subject to the vagaries of the textile machinery market, which experience has shown to be liable to strong fluctuations. A sector-unrelated product such as braiding machines will make us a good deal more — and healthily — independent.”
It was apparent right now, how important diversification is, Benjamin Mayer, Mayer & Cie.’s co-managing director, noted. He is responsible for sales. After a fast and furious start to 2018 demand for circular knitting machines had tailed off in the second half. That was mainly due to turbulence in international trade policy, he said, in the wake of which uncertainty had spread widely in many important circular knitting markets. Order books for braiding machines, in contrast, are full for months ahead because other laws apply to the hydraulic hoses used in, for example, automobile manufacturing and aviation. That is also true of tubes that drive pumps on the seabed in offshore operations. Braiding machine manufacturing capacities are currently fully booked until the beginning of 2020.
Although circular knitting and braiding machines are only distant relations, there are many synergy effects between the two lines of business. “That was a powerful argument for integration,” says Benjamin Mayer. “Our new investment stays within limits because we can make many braiding machine parts with our existing machine tools and production machinery. Assembly employees can not only assemble circular knitting machines, shipping employees can not only ship circular knitting machines.” Mayer & Cie. also anticipates a positive effect in the key sector of research and development, but with the stated aim of establishing a separate research department as soon as possible.
Series manufactured in Albstadt from January
In January 2019, Braidtech is embarking on series production in Albstadt-Tailfingen. Preparations for this milestone took nearly 12 months. Premises needed to be provided, the production line prepared, procurement organized and, not least, the team lined up. At the moment, it consists of 12 employees who do production-related work in, say, assembly, quality assurance and logistics. They are currently working flat out on the prototype of their first braiding machine, an MR 15 24 Carrier. Patrick Moser, head of the new Mayer Braidtech business unit, explains that “the model as such is tried and established, but for us here, in new conditions, it is an ‘original’.”
The plan for the first half of 2019 provides for the shipment of two double deck systems, each consisting of two MR15 24 Carriers, per month. Preparations are also be made for series production of the second model in a range consisting of six products.
Distribution structures are well established. Mayer Braidtech has handled world sales of braiding machines for years. “Our business,” Moser says, “is project business, so the largest sales markets can vary from year to year, but for some time we have had many orders from Italy and China.”
Interim production support from the United States
As overall demand still exceeds production capacity in Albstadt-Tailfingen, Mayer & Cie. affiliate Mayer Industries will continue to manufacture braiding machines in the year ahead. Mayer Industries, based in Orangeburg, S.C., has made a name for itself in this field over the past 40 years and its systems are considered to be premium products. Founded in 1970, Mayer Industries originally manufactured circular knitting machines, but when orders stopped coming in during the 1970s crisis the owners, the Mayer family, acquired patents for braiding machines, thereby laying the foundations for a new, distinct line of business. When Mayer Industries ceases business operations, probably at the end of 2019, this line of business will continue to provide its services, but at a different location.
BRIXEN, Italy — December 21, 2018 — Durst, a manufacturer of advanced digital printing and production technologies, has entered into a 50/50 joint venture with printing press manufacturer Koenig & Bauer for the joint development and marketing of single-pass digital printing systems for folding carton and cartonboard corrugated industry.
As technology leader in inkjet printing, Durst bundles this expertise with the market presence and excellent mechanical engineering of the Koenig & Bauer Group, which, with more than 5,700 employees, is one of the world’s major suppliers of packaging and banknote printing.
In future, fully automated production lines will be developed in the joint venture and distributed worldwide. The digital transformation is also in the packaging industry, as the ever-changing requirements can no longer be met with conventional production technologies. Unlike in the graphics industry, an inkjet press alone is not enough, but there is a need to integrate different peripheral systems into a fully automatic production line. The new partner company will be based in Germany and will also manage the service and ink business in close cooperation with the global network of both companies.
“Durst and Koenig & Bauer is really a ‘perfect match’ because combining our strengths will drive digitalization in the packaging industry,” said Christoph Gamper, CEO of Durst Group. “Both companies are similar in their culture and strategic direction, and both are technology leaders in their fields. With the partnership, we are even more strongly positioning ourselves as a high-end systems supplier to the industry.”
Claus Bolza-Schünemann, CEO of Koenig & Bauer AG, said: “We look forward to the joint innovations and further development of future-oriented digital printing solutions for folding carton and corrugated board printing, which offer our customers added value. For folding carton printing, the modular concept of the VariJET enables the combination of digital inkjet printing with off-set printing and inline finishing options. Durst is the ideal partner for these goals because of its existing know-how and experience with inkjet and its high-quality solutions.”
AMSTERDAM — December 21, 2018 — Mimaki Europe, a manufacturer of inkjet printers and cutting systems, today announces its collaboration with over 10 inspirational world-leading designers for Heimtextil 2019 (8-11 January 2019, Frankfurt, Germany – Stand J81, Hall 3.0). Under the theme of ‘The Fusion of Innovation and Design’ and celebrating digital print within all elements of art, interior design and fashion, Mimaki commissioned work from designers including Sigrid Calon and Claire Vos (Studio Roderick Vos), will be showcased throughout the Mimaki booth and used to demonstrate the power of digital print to increase the creative process.
Seeing printed applications on a diverse range of textiles, fabrics and interior materials, visitors will learn how they too can use advanced Mimaki technology to drive design innovation and profitability. From designers including Anousjka Röben displaying shoes; creative studio Deux d’Amsterdam showing a unique kimono designed specifically for Mimaki and Heimtextil, all designs were digitally printed by Textiles & More (T&M). The Mimaki stand will showcase a printer for almost every type of textile application, with additional digitally printed textiles applied to design classics in the ‘Pode’ range from Leolux, and feature walls utilising photography from Arjan Benning also being displayed.
“Heimtextil is always a really good show for us. For 2019, we’re excited to share the results of our collaboration with these amazing designers and to demonstrate what’s possible with our comprehensive range of printers,” says Mark Sollman, Mimaki Application Manager EMEA.
“From entry-level printers to production workhorses, each Mimaki system delivers premium quality print and profit-enhancing productivity. What’s more, using our wide range of inks, a huge variety of substrate applications now becomes available too. So, whether you’re a designer seeking to push the creative boundaries of textile printing, or a brand looking to increase your productivity and lower your environmental footprint, a visit to the Mimaki stand is a must,” continued Sollman.
Heimtextil visitors will experience Mimaki’s broad portfolio of printing solutions, split into three distinct areas including interior design, fashion and art. In the art section, the UCJV150-160 inkjet printer with environmentally-friendly UV-curable inks, will be used to produce wallpaper. Textiles will be printed in both the interior design and fashion areas, with the ultra-productive TS55-1800 sublimation transfer inkjet printer focusing on upholstery. Using a belt-conveying solution, the TX300P-1800B entry-level direct-to-textile system will also be printing onto stretchable fabrics used in fashion.
Claire Vos, introduced by Textiles & More (T&M) and a graduate of Design Academy Eindhoven, studied her craft in Italy, Switzerland and Indonesia before settling in the Netherlands. With a contemporary graphical industrial flavour to her work, many of Vos’s products are produced using Mimaki printers for Textiles & More. Her work, shown under the theme of ‘The Dressing Room’, will be shown at Heimtextil through Mimaki-printed upholstery including chairs and cushions.
Bringing vivid colour and fine graphical elements into her work, Sigrid Calon is a visual artist. At Heimtextil, the detail and vibrancy of Calon’s art will be brought to life by a 2×2 metre artwork utilising Mimaki’s latest printhead technology delivering smooth gradations and sharp and precise details. Examples of Calon’s work will also be shown in various materials, produced by Mimaki advanced print technologies including UV and 3D printing.
“Quite simply, fabric diversity means that designers no longer have to compromise,” states Sollman, “Whether it’s for the fast paced and ever-changing high-street marker or for more bespoke pieces, substrate availability is paramount for all fashion today.”
Danna Drion, Senior Marketing Manager EMEA, Mimaki Europe, concludes: “We’re absolutely delighted to be showcasing this collection of talent at Heimtextil – it perfectly demonstrates what can be achieved when you mix design excellence with high quality digital printing from Mimaki technology. Of course, we will also show the business case that supports these projects too – profit generating print solutions that enable innovation and business growth.”
BOXMEER, Netherlands — December 20, 2018 — With the year 2019 — the year of ITMA Barcelona — coming closer, it’s more than time for a sneak preview of what to expect at the SPGPrints ITMA booth. At ITMA 2019, SPGPrints will showcase the latest innovations in both conventional and digital textile printing for the fashion and the home-furnishing industry. But don’t take our word for it, come to see for yourself at ITMA from 20th until 26th of June 2019 in Barcelona.
Looking for either a conventional or digital textile printing system, SPGPrints is your go-to all you need in printing partner that can help you find all the essentials you need. At one of the largest booths of ITMA Barcelona 2019, you’ll be able to see the latest conventional and digital printing solutions as well as get the opportunity to visit the brand new rotary screen and digital ink technology center to assist you in finding the right equipment for your printing process.
In terms of conventional printing systems, SPGPrints will take the opportunity at ITMA Barcelona 2019 to showcase its latest generation of laser engraving equipment and the nine color PegasusEVO rotary screen printer.
On top of that, we wouldn’t be SPGPrints if we would not perform live demonstrations of our digital textile printing solutions at our booth. At ITMA Barcelona, you get the chance to witness a live demo of our PIKE single-pass digital textile printing machine but in a different format than we did ever before. Of course, our multi-pass digital textile printing machine, the JAVELIN, will be on showcase too.
SPGPrints would like to welcome both their loyal customers as well as newly interested people to their 1500m2 stand at ITMA Barcelona to see for themselves how SPGPrints can be their all you need in printing partner while enjoying a typical Spanish happy hour. See you in Barcelona.
Mahlo, a leading German machine builder and an inventor of automatic straightening, will showcase its measurement and control solutions for textiles production at the Dhaka International Textile & Garment Machinery exhibition (DTG), which will take place from 9-12 January in the International Convention City Bashundhara, welcoming 35,000 visitors and more than 880 exhibitors.
“Bangladesh is the second biggest exporter for Ready Made Garment in the world, and thus one of the most important markets in the textile branch,” said
Mahlo’s Area Sales Manager Adnan Andac. Together with service partner Tootal Quality Resources, he says he is ready to answer any questions of the expert audience. “In order for Bangladesh to keep its current market position, a shift to higher quality goods can be observed. And that’s why Mahlo is the ideal partner for local textile producers.”
“The company provides straight goods reliably. Based on experience that goes back to 1945 the machine impresses with latest technology in distortion correction. The modular straightening and process control system ensures a straight-thread product before and after the drying or fixing process and optimises the processes all around the stenter.”
“This increases quality and saves resources and energy.” With the help of the process control system Optipac VMC-15, textile producers can measure and controls critical parameters, such as dwell time, thread density or residual moisture.
Mahlo is a leading manufacturer of measuring, control and automation systems for the textiles and finishing industry, as well as the coating, film and paper sector. Mahlo is located in Saal on the Danube in lower Bavaria but operates worldwide. Six branch offices in Italy, Belgium, Spain, Brazil, China and the US serve as support stations for the key markets.
COLZATE, Italy and DHAKA, Bangladesh — December 20, 2018 — Itema, the leading Italian manufacturer of best-in-class weaving machines, spare parts and integrated services, is exhibiting at DTG Dhaka (Hall 7 / 510) from January 9th – 12th at BICC – Bangabandhu International Conference Centre in a joint booth with its sole agent in the country Pacific Associates.
The Italian based Company will showcase its absolute worldwide best-seller, the Itema rapier machine R9500. The R9500 on show, courtesy of the Itema Customer Well Group based in Chittagong, will exhibit a shirting fabric which represents one of the most produced in the Bangladeshi weaving mills. The Itema target is to demonstrate to the industry the textile superiority, the real production performances and the excellent efficiency of the R9500 when it comes to weaving the widest range of fabrics, including shirting, apparel, bed sheeting.
DTG is for Itema the perfect stage to allow the Bangladeshi weavers to experience first-hand the advanced weaving technology and the worldwide Itema references, in what is defined as one of the future leading countries in the woven fabric production.
In fact, despite garmenting is a major industry in Bangladesh the biggest amount of fabric required is still imported from other countries. In this landscape, the future development of the weaving industry represents one of the main potential sectors for growth of the Bangladeshi textile industry.
Itema positions itself as a reliable partner – and not only a simple supplier – for textile companies, providing best-in-class, made in Italy weaving machines along with a real-time after-sales service, highly professional trainings for the weavers and integrated textile consultancy.
Itema is uniquely positioned in the market to offer textile manufacturers the top three weft insertion technologies – rapier, airjet and projectile, OEM spare parts, upgrade kits and a the dedicated online shop MyItema for the historic brands now part of Itema – Somet, Sulzer and Vamatex, plus highly professional trainings in 6 worldwide locations.
Itema, as a customer-oriented Company, wants to give to the Bangladeshi textile entrepreneurs a valuable option in the market and features a solid organization in the country, relying on a trained and professional locally based team of technicians.
The Italian representatives of the Company along with the Bangladeshi Itema dedicated team will be at DTG to meet the industry players, to listen to their needs and to show to them the multiple possibilities and advantages that they could get by dealing with Itema.
To learn more about Itema’s technological innovations, visit the Joint ITEMA & PACIFIC ASSOCIATES booth in Hall 7 Stand 510.
Picanol will participate in DTG 2019. This event will take place from January 9-12, 2019 in Dhaka, Bangladesh, and Picanol will be present at the booth of its agent, Spintex Technology (Booth 7-126).
Bangladesh has been an important market for Picanol over the last decade. Picanol has become one of the leading weaving machinery suppliers to the market, due to its complete and competitive product portfolio and top class service.
Bangladesh textile industry is investing mainly in in denim, bottomweights, shirting and bedsheeting fabrics. Picanol offers both rapier (OptiMax-i, TerryMax-i) and airjet weaving machines (OMNIplusSummum and TERRYplusSummum) for these applications.
For a number of years, Picanol has been represented in the region by Spintex Technology, which ensures excellent local service via a pool of trained technicians and an excellent after market service for spare parts and Weave-Up packages. At least once a year, all of the technicians travel to the Picanol headquarters in Belgium in order to receive training on all of the latest developments.
Picanol expects the Bangladesh market to continue its growth story in fabric manufacturing.
35 000 visitors and more than 880 exhibitioners: the Dhaka International Textile & Garment Machinery exhibition (DTG) is the perfect opportunity for Mahlo GmbH + Co. KG to make its products even more known in Bangladesh. From 9 to 12 January, the German machine builder Mahlo will showcase its measurement and control solutions for textile production at booth 820, located in the International Convention City Bashundhara.
Mahlo Modular straightening and process control system. Figure: Mahlo Modular straightening and process control system.“Bangladesh is the second
biggest exporter for Ready Made Garment in the world, and thus one of the most important markets in the textile branch”, says Mahlo’s Area Sales Manager Adnan Andac.
Together with service partner Tootal Quality Resources Ltd., Adnan Andac is ready for questions and issues of the expert audience. In order for Bangladesh to keep its current market position, a shift to higher-quality goods is much needed. Bangladesh is the second biggest exporter for Ready Made Garment in the world, and thus one of the most important markets in the textile branch.
ADNAN ANDAC, AREA SALES MANAGER, MAHLO
Andac also added, “And that’s why Mahlo is the ideal partner for local textile producers.”
The world market leader’s weft straightener, for example, provides straight goods reliably. Based on the experience that goes back to 1945 the machine impresses with the latest technology in distortion correction. The modular straightening and process control system ensures a straight-thread product before and after the drying or fixing process and optimizes the processes all around the stenter. This increases quality and saves resources and energy. With the help of the process control system, Optipac VMC-15 textile producers can measure and control critical parameters such as dwell time, thread density or residual moisture.
For everyone who wants to optimize the production process and increase the product quality at the same time, should come to booth 820, operated by Mahlo and Tootal. The experts will work out the perfect solution for individual challenges.
The challenges for the textile machinery sector are likely to manifold in 2019, said VDMA, Germany's mechanical engineering industry association. The political and economic framework conditions have deteriorated, incoming orders in main markets are difficult to predict. Hence, markets that have so far been less in focus have to be worked on more intensively.
At the same time, the recruitment and retention of both academic and industrial junior staff is becoming a permanent task for companies, VDMA said in a
statement at the turn of the year 2018-19. Recruitment of new talent is a long runner. Competition from other technology sectors is fierce. In 2019, the VDMA’s Walter Reiners Foundation will continue the tried and tested instruments of recruiting young people, at the same time breaking new ground and developing answers with its member companies to the question of how engineers can be enthusiastic about I4.0 tasks in the industry. At the ITMA in Barcelona, the VDMA will once again give students the opportunity to visit the leading trade fair as part of an excursion group.
In April, the creativity awards of the foundation will be presented for the first time in a 'young environment' at the recruiting fair MG Zieht An - Go Textile. This year, the awards ceremony of the Walter Reiners Foundation took place in the Digital Capability Center in Aachen. (RR)
