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The challenges for the textile machinery industry are manifold with a view to 2019, according to Thomas Waldmann, Managing Director of the VDMA Textile Machinery Federation. “The political and economic framework conditions have deteriorated, incoming orders in important markets are difficult to predict,” he said.
“Markets that have so far been less in focus have to be observed and worked on more intensively. Digitalization requires the design of business processes and models. At the same time, the recruitment and retention of both academic and industrial junior staff is becoming a permanent task for companies.”
ITMA Asia 2018
The ITMA Asia was the most important marketing and sales event for the industry in 2018 – albeit in China in a demand environment that is currently declining in many segments. Nevertheless, in a VDMA survey, 74% of participants rated the number of visitors to their own stand as “satisfactory” to “very good”.
“The quality of the discussions held with visitors from outside China was assessed even more positively,” added Mr Waldmann. “Members took advantage of the VDMA offers for image promotion, networking and exchange, in particular, the press conference and the Association’s half-time results evening.”
ITMA 2019
ITMA 2019, which will take place from 20-26 June in Barcelona, Spain, will offer visitors an overview of the innovation diversity of the entire industry: In line with this goal, a group of experts led by the VDMA is developing the Research & Education Area initiated in 2007 into the ITMA Innovation Lab.
Four strategic topics for textile entrepreneurs will be addressed by prominent experts at the Speakers Corner. These will include:
Innovative Raw Materials & Manufacturing Technology
Strategic Business Innovation through Automation & Digitisation
Technical Textiles Innovations and Manufacturing Technology
Sustainable Textile & Garment Manufacturing in the Circular Economy
The ITMA Innovation Lab approach also includes exhibitors presenting their innovative technology in the virtual framework of the ITMA Innovation Video Showcase.
New talent
“In 2017, joint textile research was able to raise project funds amounting to millions of Euros. Eighty-two projects were started, 161 projects are running at German textile institutes. Textiles continue to be the frontrunners of industries carrying out joint industrial research,” continued Mr Waldmann.
“Recruitment of is a long runner. Competition from other technology sectors is fierce. In 2019, the VDMA’s Walter Reiners Foundation will continue the tried and tested instruments of recruiting young people, at the same time breaking new ground and developing answers with its member companies to the question of how engineers can be enthusiastic about I4.0 tasks in the industry.” At the ITMA in Barcelona, the VDMA will once again give students the opportunity to visit the leading trade fair as part of an excursion group.
In April, the creativity awards of the Foundation will be presented for the first time in a “young environment” at the recruiting fair MG ZIEHT AN - GO TEXTILE. This year, the awards ceremony of the Walter Reiners Foundation of the German Textile Machinery Industry took place in the Digital Capability Center in
Aachen.
"As the fashion industry moves towards size-inclusivity and sustainable practices, consumers are still facing issues with ‘one size fits all body types’. To cater to individual needs new made-to-measure business model will be the trend in future. Fashion brands are tailoring each garment to customer's size, body type and — in some cases — style preference. Businesses, such as Zozo and Red Thread, are using mobile technology to acquire a 3-D body scan for an accurately-sized garment, while others like Olivia Rose The Label -make their pieces, taking individual measurements and aesthetics into account."
As the fashion industry moves towards size-inclusivity and sustainable practices, consumers are still facing issues with ‘one size fits all body types’. To cater to individual needs new made-to-measure business model will be the trend in future. Fashion brands are tailoring each garment to customer's size, body type and — in some cases — style preference. Businesses, such as Zozo and Red Thread, are using mobile technology to acquire a 3-D body scan for an accurately-sized garment, while others like Olivia Rose The Label -make their pieces, taking individual measurements and aesthetics into account.
Home Fitting Box for new styles
Shoppers can use Sene's Home Fitting Box to try out three styles for five days; using feedback from a ‘Smart Size quiz that uses the consumer’s personal clothes for reference and a virtual fitting over videochat, Sene uses its integrated pattern technology to manufacture a correctly-sized garment.
A 3-D model for perfect measurements
Red Thread's garments are tailored to fit in San Francisco. A team of fit analysts design, tailor, measure, cut and sew the
garment to the customer's desired specification using Red Thread's mobile scanning technology, which creates a 3-D body model that supplies up to 15 key measurements.
Zozo system and app for custom-fitting of garments
Zozo, launched in November 2017 in Japan, uses the Zozo measurement system, which includes the Zozo Suit, to capture precise measurements of your unique body. Customers can also use the Zozo app to capture 12 photos — standing at each point on the face of a clock — to create a 3-D rendering that will get turned into a custom-fitting garment.
Responding rather than predicting
Eshakti responds to of-the-moment trends rather than anticipating what will be trending in three or six months. The results are off-the-rack styles that come in a wide array of fabrics and colors in sizes 0 through 36, as well as custom clothing, which requires Eshakti's specialised software to take customer measurements and create personalised garments.
Proprietary algorithm for well-fitting tops
Careste was launched in October 2018 with the goal of bringing luxury couture to every woman's wardrobe, as well as reducing the waste used by mass production and environmental problems caused by synthetic fabrics. Its debut pieces included five different top silhouettes made from select fabrics and colors that tie into the brand's current concept and inspiration. Its factory and tech team use a proprietary algorithm that converts key customer measurements into well-fitting tops.
Powered by 3-D imaging technology
Suit Kits's made-to-measure service is powered by the 3-D imaging technology on its website, which allows customers to see themselves in the suits in real time. Its app allows human tailors to record your measurements and link them to your profile.
Olivia Rose the Label
Launched in January 2017, the Olivia Rose label tailors each piece and every detail to the individual customer. Its designer makes every garment herself by hand which can take a few months and multiple samples to get a design perfect. She can accept around 25 to 30 orders per week, depending on the length of time it takes to make one item.
Turning pre-made clothing into customised garments
Launched in 2016, Hemster, an on-demand tailoring service offers customers the ability to resize their clothing without leaving their homes. The home-fit service is currently available in California and New York. Hemster is able to turn any pre-made clothing into customised garments, which allows the company to increase sales and lower returns for brands, while understanding each shopper's preferences better.
Thus, by utilising advanced technology and eliminating overstock, made-to-measure brands aim to not just to survive in the short term, but also pave the path for the industry’s future.
"Apparel retailers are embracing advanced analytics and blending intuition with science to regain control and price smarter. This has brought about a margin and sales lift of three to six percentage points for some companies. Pricing smarter requires understanding where customers perceive value and having the agility to respond to competitors’ moves with full insight into the impact on financial performance. Industry leaders are investing carefully in price and promotion, as well as leveraging insights from advanced analytics to make smart decisions."
Apparel retailers are embracing advanced analytics and blending intuition with science to regain control and price smarter. This has brought about a margin and sales lift of three to six percentage points for some companies. Pricing smarter requires understanding where customers perceive value and having the agility to respond to competitors’ moves with full insight into the impact on financial performance.
Industry leaders are investing carefully in price and promotion, as well as leveraging insights from advanced analytics to make smart decisions. This approach gives merchants clear, analytics-informed price for a style before they plan sales volumes and make inventory commitments. Such foresight can spell the difference between strong sell-through and piles of excess inventory later in the season.
Integrating technology for price-sensitive styles
New styles appear every season, often with little connection to products sold previously. As a result, products do not have a long sales history to analyse. Artificial intelligence can address these style-matching challenges more accurately and efficiently than merchants ever could. Integrating techniques such as computer vision, text mining, and machine learning can identify groups of styles that are likely to respond similarly to changes in price and promotions.
In many other industries, and even in some retail sectors, off-the-shelf models of price elasticity and responses to promotions
describe consumer behavior accurately. But the nuances of apparel—not least of which are seasonality and trends—require a more tailored approach.
Analytical approach to determine preseason decision
To isolate the impact of each promotion, leading retailers have integrated cutting-edge approaches to elasticity modeling, controlling for factors that might dampen or amplify sales results. This enables planners and merchants to assess the impact of their promotional plan and in-season tactics on both the top and bottom lines of the business.
In the era of real-time, dynamic, and individualised pricing, it’s even more challenging to make investment, costing, and pricing decisions months before a product hits the floor and consumers react to it.
Many retailers address this challenge with concept testing, online or in stores. However, retailers can apply analytical approaches to better inform preseason buying and pricing decisions. Instead of relying solely on trends or intuition to plan each style, they can use analysis to deconstruct style-level performance into discrete drivers, such as underlying category trends, changes in prices, and inventory levels by store.
Retailers must now take into account the logistics costs of shipping inventory between stores and between channels. This requires understanding consumer demand at much more granular levels to determine not only appropriate markdown timing and depth but also optimal channel and location.
Of course, leading retailers use a combination of algorithms helpful for optimising markdown options, including a number of trade-offs inherent in the omnichannel model. The best rank and prioritise scenarios to make it easy for planners to manage by exception rather than by reviewing every potential consideration.
Accessing key facts needed to make smart pricing decisions: price elasticity, competitors’ prices, and the role of a category in creating value perceptions etc, requires a year-round commitment to pricing analytics. Apparel retailers who apply science to their historically art-based pricing decisions will develop a powerful capability that can restore full-price selling.
"A number of brands will actively engage themselves in improving their eco-footprint in 2019. Younger consumers will align themselves with businesses that support their values. This includes tracing the origin of products, its manufacturing technique and impact on environment. Recycled fashion will become more popular, with major brands starting to offer recycled (second-hand) clothing, as they keep up with the demand for more sustainable and conscientious practices."
According to predictions by Immago, the top five emerging trends for 2019 are:
Growing emphasis on sustainability
A number of brands will actively engage themselves in improving their eco-footprint in 2019. Younger consumers will align themselves with businesses that support their values. This includes tracing the origin of products, its manufacturing technique and impact on environment. Recycled fashion will become more popular, with major brands starting to offer recycled (second-hand) clothing, as they keep up with the demand for more sustainable and conscientious practices.
Bigger role for artificial intelligence
Next year will see a rise in application of Artificial Intelligence for developing human-like qualities, enabling more interaction with clients and a faster resolution time. AI is streamlining the industry, improving everything from shipping routes to marketing decisions. These systems will now become cheaper allowing small to medium business enterprises to harness the power of AI.
Social media, mobiles to take the market by storm
Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and all other platforms have become the playing field for improving customer relations. Online
marketing, specifically through social media platforms, will dominate over everything else in 2019. A meaningful dialogue with clients on a personal level will become the new norm, instead of leaving feedback forms or waiting for a reply from an email.
With online purchasing becoming safer and giving more options, consumers are expecting brands to offer mobile purchasing apps, or purchasing on a mobile-ready website. As per Google, three out of 4 consumers will switch from a poorly designed mobile site to an alternative mobile site that makes purchasing easier.
As consumers become more comfortable buying online through their phones, any business which doesn’t have an app for easy purchase should seriously think about investing in one.
Preparing for the future
Since Donald Trump became President, the US has focused on turning inwards to protect itself, rather than looking to grow and expand free trade around the globe. This has led to tariff wars with China, which has caused turmoil in markets around the world. The geopolitical landscape is extremely complex, making it almost impossible to predict the specific effects that they will have on your business, but it’s important to keep a close eye on what’s happening, to try to anticipate and prepare for any changes that could affect you.
"Technology is changing the way fashion functions as tech companies including Google are partnering groundbreaking fashion projects. A case in point is Levi’s smart jacket, a project implemented in collaboration with Google. Computers allow modern designers to create new patterns and styles compared to old tools. But computing does not mean a laptop or desktop running windows new CAD software but machine learning and the use of AI to create a new era for the fashion industry. It is possible to use and mix styles with innovative materials such as bioengineered textiles and leather made from microbes."
Technology is changing the way fashion functions as tech companies including Google are partnering groundbreaking fashion projects. A case in point is Levi’s smart jacket, a project implemented in collaboration with Google. Computers allow modern designers to create new patterns and styles compared to old tools. But computing does not mean a laptop or desktop running windows new CAD software but machine learning and the use of AI to create a new era for the fashion industry. It is possible to use and mix styles with innovative materials such as bioengineered textiles and leather made from microbes.
The role of artificial intelligence in fashion
Artificial intelligence (AI) aids brands to mine a big pool of data on any specific subject. This information can help fashion brands to deliver customised services and to examine consumer’s preferences. More important, Artificial Intelligence has the capacity to play a complementary role in fashion design.
With the help of AI, fashion designers can not only predict the upcoming trends, dictated by the current fast-changing
environment of fashion, but also examine and minimise the environmental impacts in their production process.
Sustainable fashion projects on a rise
More efforts and deep expertise will be devoted to developing projects that save animals from suffering for the sake of fashion all over the globe. Stella McCartney, a well-known vegan designer, has already implemented many innovative ideas and presented garments made in a laboratory. The material of the garment was similar to the silk but made from natural materials.
Adidas too has made a similar contribution towards a more sustainable fashion industry by cooperating with ‘Parley for the Oceans’ in a limited edition of sneakers made from the plastic collected from the ocean.
3D Printing in Fashion
3D printing finds applicability not only in high-end fashion but also in low-end, by somehow providing a new range of creative applications. 3D printing enables professionals to transcend any boundaries of design, as it gives them a chance to turn the most improbable projects into reality. 3-D textile projects, implemented despite their overall complexity, combine different materials into one piece of cloth, for instance, waterproof textile with a flexible one, and so on. Another important trend to pay attention to is the customisation of garments. Customisation helps in achieving fittings depending on individual parameters, such as size, height, etc. Surely adoption of tech in fashion brings more value than is visible. It is imperative to educate on the subject and release constant news regarding latest projects, collaborations, and plans.
Leading computerised knitting machine manufacturer Shima Seiki will exhibit its latest solutions at the 16th Dhaka International Textile & Garment Machinery Exhibition. The exhibition will be held from January 09-12, 2019 in Dhaka, Bangladesh, in cooperation with its partner Pacific Associates.
Shima Seiki will showcase a comprehensive line-up of whole garment knitting machines. One of these, the MACH2X features four needle beds and Shima Seiki’s original SlideNeedle, capable of producing high-quality fine gauge whole garment knitwear in all needles.
MACH2S is a V-bed machine that offers the flexibility of producing whole garment knitwear using every other needle, as well as conventional shaped knitwear using all needles. SWG091N2 provides opportunities in whole garment knitting across a wide range of items in a compact, economical package. In conventional shaped knitting, SVR123SP and SVR093SP each feature a loop presser bed mounted above the rear needle bed and is capable of in lay technique for producing unique, value-added hybrid knit-weave fabrics.
SVR123SP at DTG features the new i-Plating option, capable of alternating yarn colors in any pattern, producing jacquard like designs using plain jersey stitch. Plating can be performed within the same course and for individual needles for even greater diversity in knit design.
Shima Seiki will also display its P-CAM series computerised multiply cutting machine and prototype P-SPR2 automatic spreading machine as part of its Shima Cutting Solutions strategically developed for the Asian and South Asian markets.
According to a report by Fast Company, the Self-Assembly Lab at MIT has developed a technology that provides a clever solution to the problems of mass customisation. The collaboration between Ministry of Supply and the Self-Assembly Lab approaches the problem from a different perspective: Their sweater, coming to stores within a few months, can be mass-produced in standard sizes. The customisation process happens in-store, instead of during the production process.
This smart sweater doesn’t need a battery, nor is it robotically knitted using metal thread or shape memory alloy, which would traditionally be used to make a material change its form. Instead, the fabric shrinks when exposed to heat, thanks to both the structure of the knit and the combination of materials used. The shape-shifting technology depends on the way that two different off-the-shelf materials interact together when they’re exposed to heat.
The Self-Assembly Lab developed the fabric through hundreds of experiments, combining different types of materials together and then trying out different knitting patterns to see how they would react to each other when exposed to heat. The research, which is part of a grant from the MIT-based non-profit organisation Advanced Functional Fabrics of America, was originally aimed at creating reversible transformations when it comes to shape and porosity, to make garments more breathable or waterproof based on temperature and moisture.
Pakistan's readymade textile and garments exports grew by less than one per cent in July to November 2018.Readymade garment export growth grew by 21 per cent in July to November 2018.
Exports of readymade textiles fell by one per cent in November 2018 compared to November 2017. Export volume of readymade garments however shot up by 18.06 per cent in November 2018 compared to November 2017.
Pakistan’s exports of textile and clothing increased 0.86 per cent during the first quarter of the fiscal year.
Raw cotton exports declined by 76.21 per cent. Exports of cotton yarn decreased by 2.25 per cent. Exports of towels fell 0.55 per cent. Exports of readymade garments decreased by 1.55 per cent.
On a yearly and monthly basis textile exports in September recorded a decrease of 4.91 per cent and 18.53 per cent when compared to exports during September 2017 and August 2018 respectively.
Textile exports make up around 60 per cent of the country’s total exports. The textile sector has the largest share in Pakistan’s exports.
Pakistan’s competitors are upping the ante on textile exports to make inroads into more global markets. While China’s share in global textile exports is 36 per cent, Vietnam contributes 12.4 per cent, and Pakistan 1.7 per cent.
Indian apparel exporters are looking forward to a hike in duty drawback of about four to 4.5 per cent to mitigate the embedded taxes paid by exporters.
This is expected to translate to around a Rs 5,000 crore boost for the sector.
Indian exporters pay embedded taxes in products like seeds, besides electricity duty and taxes on diesel, but are unable to recover them, which is weakening their competitiveness.
In the first nine months of the current fiscal, the sector registered a decline in exports compared to the previous fiscal. Exports of apparel have declined after the implementation of GST due to lowering of the duty drawback rate from 11 per cent to 3.7 per cent and non-disbursement of the drawbacks. Fiscal 2018-19 is likely to be flat for apparel exports.
The old duty drawback rate which was very attractive, that came to an end in September 2017. Because of this attractive scheme, Indian exporters advanced their delivery schedules to avail of the duty drawback scheme. Consequently, textile and apparel exports skyrocketed in September 2017. Exports one year later, in September 2018, declined sharply.
India’s share in world trade in textile and clothing is estimated to be 4.95 per cent. With these exports, India is ranked second among suppliers in the world.
"At the recent seminar held hosted at the 26th Hong Kong Fashion Week for Spring/Summer, industry leaders discussed latest trends in fashion and how the industry can identify new opportunities in this industry. The seminar was organised by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC). Titled "New Retail Era: 'Fashion x E-commerce' Strategies", the seminar was attended by Alin Dobrea, Head of Brand Partnerships at Zalora; Eddie Lee, Regional CEO, Taiwan, Hong Kong and Southeast Asia, ECMS Express"
At the recent seminar held hosted at the 26th Hong Kong Fashion Week for Spring/Summer, industry leaders discussed latest trends in fashion and how the industry can identify new opportunities in this industry. The seminar was organised by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC). Titled "New Retail Era: 'Fashion x E-commerce' Strategies", the seminar was attended by Alin Dobrea, Head of Brand Partnerships at Zalora; Eddie Lee, Regional CEO, Taiwan, Hong Kong and Southeast Asia, ECMS Express; Edwin Wong, Founder & CEO, Cloudbreakr; and Raymond Yeung, Senior Sales Manager, Publications & E-Commerce Department at the HKTDC.
Boosting boost through AI
Dobrea said, the information provided by e-commerce channels can be used to identify the latest market trends
which can further help retailers to improve their procurement processes and boost sales. Online fashion retailer Zalora boasts of a pool of over seven years' data that gives the company a better understanding of the differences and similarities between the Indian and Southeast markets besides highlighting the most popular items, patterns, colors and brands in these markets.
One way e-commerce companies can boost businesses is through cost, speed and reliability of logistics, which can be elevated through artificial intelligence (AI). Cross-border logistics solutions enable customers to track their orders even if the delivery process is outsourced to different suppliers. This reduces their costs significantly.
Logistics firms have now entrusted the entire responsibility of managing their returned goods to e-commerce companies to manage returned goods. This constitutes a considerable portion of sales which significantly impact their profitability. These firms can set up their returns centre around the world to collect the goods, inspect and repackage them, or even directly send them to neighboring countries from the centers to satisfy new orders. This enables them to operate in areas where they do not have an operations office and rely solely on remote monitoring, resulting in significant savings in money and time.
More companies investing in e-commerce
The trade friction between the United States and Mainland China has prompted many companies to develop their own e-commerce businesses. As Eddie Lee, Regional CEO, Taiwan, Hong Kong and Southeast Asia, ECMS Express explains, the infrastructure of a single website can cater to many markets like Japan, Taiwan and Singapore. While this new e-commerce business might only constitute a small proportion of a company's overall revenue, it may be the only sector that sees strong growth compared with the largely stagnant traditional markets. This makes it natural for companies like Giordano to allocate more resources to e-commerce.
Influencer marketing to boost conversion rates
Since it is important for brands to raise their influence in the market, e-commerce companies need to use influencer market and tell the right story on the most appropriate social media channels. This will help brands to increase their influence in the market and boost conversion rates. Tools like AI can help social media companies analyse the most relevant topics based on what people post on their pages using natural language processing and image recognition. These companies can identify everything from brand matching, interest affinity, audience group, social performance metrics and content style.
Edwin Wong, Founder & CEO of digital marketing firm Cloudbreakr feels, brands can use a mix of different content such as an instant video feed, short video clips, an image on a post or even a long video tutorial. He cites the examples of video sliders using66 multiple images to grab fans' attention and drive viewership. He views instant video polling, before-and-after trials and full product tutorial videos as other good ways to boost fan awareness. Wong believes the way people interact on various social media platforms can differ markedly. He points out that since that fashion and accessory brands are highly appeal-driven and affected by peer opinions, they are more inclined to give free samples to multiple influencers at the same time to drive an instant trend.
