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From Landfill to Loop Global regulations driving garment recycling

The fashion industry's environmental impact is undeniable, with tons of textile waste ending up in landfills each year. For example, the global fashion industry produces an estimated 92 million tons of textile waste annually. Less than 1 per cent of clothing is recycled into new clothing, highlighting the vast untapped potential for textile recycling. Recycling textiles can save significant amounts of water, energy, and resources compared to producing new garments. To combat the growing problem, governments and organizations worldwide are implementing innovative regulations to shift the industry towards a circular model, where garments are recycled instead of discarded.

EU leads the way

The EU has emerged as a frontrunner in textile recycling regulations, with its Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles aiming to make textile products more durable, repairable, reusable, and recyclable. By 2025, the EU will require separate collection of textile waste, paving the way for increased recycling rates. The strategy also encourages eco-design practices and aims to curb the release of microplastics from textiles. France has already implemented its Anti-Waste Law for a Circular Economy, which includes Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) schemes for textiles. Under EPR, producers are financially responsible for the end-of-life management of their products, incentivizing them to design for recyclability.

US taking action

In the US, legislation on textile recycling is gaining momentum. Several states have introduced bills aimed at reducing textile waste and promoting circularity. California, known for its environmental leadership, passed the Textile Recovery Act of 2023. This law establishes an EPR program for textiles, requiring producers to finance and manage the collection and recycling of their products. It also sets targets for increasing textile recycling rates, with the aim of diverting 75 per cent of textile waste from landfills by 2030.

New York is also taking steps to address textile waste. The Fashion Sustainability and Social Accountability Act, introduced in 2022, aims to hold large fashion companies accountable for their environmental and social impact. It requires them to disclose their supply chain and set targets for reducing their carbon footprint, water use, and waste generation.

Other countries in the lead

Sweden: Offers tax breaks for clothing repairs and incentivizes reuse and recycling through its EPR system for textiles.

Japan: Promotes textile recycling through its Act on the Promotion of Sorted Collection and Recycling of Containers and Packaging, which includes provisions for textile waste management.

Australia: The National Clothing Product Stewardship Scheme aims to establish a nationwide EPR system for clothing and textiles, promoting recycling and responsible waste management.

Impact on industry

The impact of these new laws and regulations is already being felt. In France, the ban on destroying unsold textiles has led to a 40 per cent increase in textile recycling in just one year. In California, the Textile Recovery Act is expected to create thousands of new jobs in the recycling sector and divert millions of tons of textiles from landfills.

Companies too are also responding to the changing regulatory landscape. Several major fashion brands have launched take-back programs, allowing customers to return old clothes for recycling. Some companies are even experimenting with innovative recycling technologies, such as chemical recycling, which can break down textiles into their original building blocks for reuse. For example, Patagonia's Worn Wear program encourages customers to repair, trade in, or recycle their old garments. The Renewal Workshop partners with brands to renew and resell damaged or returned items, extending their lifecycle. These initiatives showcase the potential for circular business models within the fashion industry.

Indeed, while regulations are essential, the textile recycling industry faces challenges, including the complexity of textile blends, the need for advanced recycling technologies, and the lack of consumer awareness. However, the growing momentum for sustainable practices and the increasing pressure on the fashion industry to reduce its environmental impact suggest a promising future for textile recycling. As more countries and companies embrace circular models, we can expect to see a significant shift toward a more sustainable and responsible fashion industry.

  

Allied Feather + Down and Nemo equipment have joined forces to create a more sustainable future for down insulation. Allied, a global leader in ethically sourced and recycled down, is supplying it’s down to Nemo'sendless promise sleeping bag collection, which recently won the Good Design sustainability award.

The Disco and Riff down sleeping bags are designed to be fully recyclable. At the end of their lifespan, they can be returned to Allied, where the down insulation will be removed, cleaned, and recycled into Renu:Trace. This innovative program is the world's first and only fully traceable recycled down offering.

Allied's partnership with Nemo is a major step towards creating a circular economy for down. Daniel Uretsky, Allied's President, stated that down is one of the most sustainable insulations because it is recyclable and biodegradable. He also emphasized that Renu:Trace guarantees that recycled down is fully traceable and ethically sourced.

Allied's commitment to ethical sourcing and traceability is unwavering. Every down feather is traced back to its region of origin, guaranteeing that it comes from ethical sources. The Renu:Trace program is a game-changer, as it allows brands to focus on both post-consumer recycled material and ethically treated animals. While Nemo is the first to participate, the program is open to all of Allied's partner brands.

  

PAKISTAN STORY

Pakistani exhibitors garnered significant recognition at the recently concluded Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics and Yarn Expo 2024, held from August 27th to 29th. This 30th anniversary edition of the expo saw robust participation from 16 Pakistani companies, showcasing a diverse range of apparel and yarn products.

Positive response amidst global participation

The expo was a grand affair, drawing nearly 4,000 exhibitors from 26 countries and regions and attracting over 95,000 trade visitors. Pakistani companies, including Kohinoor, Mahmood Textile, Sapphire Diamond Denim, Abtex International, Indus Dyeing, Xiamen Naseem, and Sardar Corporation, showcased their products, receiving a positive response from potential buyers.

Mahmood Textile celebrates a decade of participation

A highlight of the event was the recognition of Mahmood Textile for its 10 years of participation at Intertextile. This underscored the enduring partnerships and commitment to excellence that the expo fosters. Mr. Akmal, Marketing Manager at Mahmood Textile, expressed his appreciation for the platform and the support provided by Messe Frankfurt Karachi.

Optimism for future engagement

Despite challenging market conditions, Pakistani exhibitors expressed optimism about the future. Mr. Adnan Butt, Director of Sales and Marketing at Yarana Textiles, was particularly encouraged by the strong interest from potential buyers, highlighting the promising prospects in the Chinese market.

In a nutshell, the participation of Pakistani companies at Intertextile Shanghai 2024 was a success, demonstrating the country's growing influence in the global textile and apparel industry.

 

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Thai Acrylic Fibre Co. Ltd. (TAF), an Aditya Birla Group company, made a strong impression at the recently concluded Yarn Expo –China International Trade Fair for Fibres and Yarns, held in Shanghai from August 27-29, 2024. The company showcased its innovative range of acrylic fibres, emphasizing its commitment to sustainability and quality.

Among the highlights of TAF's exhibit were:

Radianza- This eco-friendly fibre, produced using gel-dyeing technology, reduces the consumption of natural resources and pollution. It's a popular choice among eco-conscious consumers and manufacturers.

Regel- A recycled acrylic fibre made from post-industrial waste, Regel offers the same quality and performance as virgin acrylic fibres while supporting a circular economy. It's available in 50% and 75% recycled content variants.

Pilbloc- Known for its anti-pilling properties, Pilbloc ensures durability and long-lasting softness, making it ideal for high-quality apparel and home textiles.

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"Our participation in Yarn Expo underscores our commitment to driving global growth and innovation within the acrylic fibre sector," said Karuna Changmai, Vice President, Global Sales Head, TAF. "We are excited to showcase our sustainable and high-performance solutions and invite visitors to explore how our new offerings can elevate their product basket."

TAF is one of the largest players in the global acrylic fibre market, renowned for its high-quality products and commitment to sustainability. As a subsidiary of the Aditya Birla Group, one of the world's largest conglomerates, TAF benefits from a strong financial foundation and extensive global reach.

Key strengths of TAF include, Product Innovation, constantly investing in research and development, Quality Assurance, Global Presence and Environmental Sustainability TAF's acrylic fibres are widely used in various applications, including Apparel( such as Sweaters, blankets, scarves, and other clothing items), Home textiles (Carpets, rugs, upholstery, and curtains) and Technical textiles ( Industrial fabrics, filters, and geotextiles).By leveraging its expertise, innovation, and global presence, Thai Acrylic Fibre Co. Ltd. continues to strengthen its position as a leading supplier of acrylic fibers in the international market.

Yarn Expo is a premier sourcing platform for the textile industry, attracting exhibitors and visitors from around the world. Suppliers showcase their latest collections of natural and blended yarns, including cotton, wool, flax, and man-made fibres.

 

CENTRESTAGE FINAL

 

The CENTRESTAGE fashion exhibition in Hong Kong recently concluded ( Sept 4-7, 2024), leaving a trail of optimism and innovation in its wake. Despite facing temporary disruptions due to Typhoon Yagi, the event attracted over 8,500 buyers from 82 countries and regions, showcasing the resilience and adaptability of the fashion industry.

Key takeaways and highlights

Optimistic industry outlook: A survey conducted during the event revealed a positive sentiment among industry players, with 34.8% of respondents expecting sales to increase in the next six to 12 months. Emerging markets were identified as a significant growth opportunity, and the growing popularity of online channels was evident, with 52% of respondents utilizing both online and offline sales channels.

Fashion Accessories and Urban Clothing in the spotlight: The survey also highlighted the growing potential of fashion accessories and urban clothing, reflecting the evolving consumer preferences towards style and comfort.

Success stories: Local exhibitor YGM Group and Singapore brand Duxton reported exceeding expectations in terms of buyer interest and potential business deals, underscoring the effectiveness of CENTRESTAGE as a platform for brand exposure and market expansion.

International participation: The event attracted buyers from diverse regions, including Japan, South Korea, and Singapore, showcasing its appeal as a key fashion trade destination in Asia.

Fashion Show Extravaganza: The opening show, CENTRESTAGE ELITES, held at the Hong Kong Palace Museum, featured the triumphant return of acclaimed designer Robert Wun. Other notable fashion shows and events included the Fashion Hong Kong Runway Show, the Redress Design Award 2024 Grand Final Fashion Show, and presentations by local fashion brands.

Circular Fashion draws the spotlight: The Redress Design Award highlighted the importance of sustainable practices in the fashion industry, with Hong Kong designer Tiger Chung emerging as the winner for her collection utilizing upcycled materials.

Young Designers Shine: The Hong Kong Young Fashion Designers' Contest (YDC) showcased the creativity and potential of emerging local talent, with Tiger Chung claiming the Champion title for his collection "Rager."

Ashworth x Mountain Yam: A fusion of heritage and innovation

A highlight of CENTRESTAGE was the groundbreaking collaboration between US golf brand Ashworth and Hong Kong designer Mountain Yam. Their capsule collection, showcased at the event, successfully blended traditional golf wear with a contemporary aesthetic, reflecting the growing trend of athleisure fashion.

Robert Wun'striumphant homecoming

London-based designer Robert Wun's return to Hong Kong was met with great enthusiasm. His "Home" collection, presented at the Hong Kong Palace Museum, celebrated his personal journey and the influence of his Hong Kong upbringing on his designs. Wun's participation in CENTRESTAGE underscored the rising prominence of Hong Kong designers on the global stage.

Redress Design Awards: A showcase of circular fashion

The 14th annual Redress Design Awards celebrated the innovative work of emerging fashion designers committed to sustainable practices. Hong Kong designer Tiger Chung's winning collection, "The Wanderer," demonstrated the potential of upcycled materials and circular design.

YDC 2024: A celebration of young talent

The Hong Kong Young Fashion Designers' Contest (YDC) concluded with a grand finale, showcasing the creativity and originality of 10 local designers. Tiger Chung's collection "Rager" earned him the Champion title, highlighting the limitless potential of Hong Kong's fashion scene.

CENTRESTAGE 2024: Emerges as a vibrant platform

CENTRESTAGE 2024 successfully navigated challenges and emerged as a vibrant platform for fashion trade, brand promotion, and creative expression. The event showcased the industry's optimism, innovation, and commitment to sustainability, solidifying Hong Kong's position as a leading fashion hub in Asia.

 

The Hong Kong Young Fashion Designers' Contest 2024 (YDC) , also termed as Young Knitwear Designer Contest ( YKDC) concluded with a grand finale at CENTRESTAGE, showcasing the boundless creativity and potential of Hong Kong's emerging fashion talent. Under the theme "To Be Seen," 10 local designers presented captivating collections that pushed boundaries and challenged traditional norms.

Tiger Chung takes the crown

After a fierce competition, Tiger Chung emerged as the Champion with his collection "Rager," earning a cash prize, an overseas study trip, and a CASETiFY collaboration. Chung, inspired by subculture and music festivals, aimed to express the unique design ethos of the younger generation through his energetic and vibrant collection.

Other winners shine bright

K Ng received the Excellence Award for "Remnants of Light," while Yoyo Chan earned both the Best Art Direction Award and the "My Favourite Collection" Award for "Trouble X."

Judges impressed by quality and diversity

The YDC judging panel, comprising industry leaders and media representatives, praised the high quality and originality of the entries. VIP Judge Masayuki Ino expressed his excitement for the future of Hong Kong's fashion scene, stating, "All the works presented by the designers are fantastic... I am excited to see all 10 fashion designers from the next generation at YDC."

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MINI x YDC Alumni collaboration

MINI HK, the major sponsor of YDC for the eighth consecutive year, collaborated with YDC Alumni designers Johnson Chong and Kinyan Lam to present a fashion collection inspired by the MINI Cooper and MINI Aceman. Singer Panther Chan added star power to the presentation, showcasing MINI's new-generation design aesthetics and sustainable concepts.

YDC 2024 highlights the limitless potential of Hong Kong fashion

The YDC 2024 grand finale not only celebrated the achievements of young designers but also underscored the vibrancy and innovation within Hong Kong's fashion industry. With their diverse and original fashion statements, these young designers are poised to make their mark on the global stage, solidifying Hong Kong's position as a leading fashion hub in Asia.

 

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The recently concluded Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics (August 27-29, 2024), one of the world's largest textile trade events, shone a spotlight on the ASEAN region, underscoring its burgeoning status as a global textile and apparel investment hub.

Key Takeaways from 3 Sessions on ASEAN Investment Opportunities:

Robust growth and market size: The sessions emphasized ASEAN's remarkable growth trajectory in the textile and apparel sector. With a population exceeding 650 million, a rising middle class, and increasing disposable incomes, ASEAN represents a massive consumer market. Experts shared that the region's apparel market is projected to reach US$300 billion by 2025, fuelled by strong domestic demand and a growing export market.

Favorable investment climate: ASEAN's investor-friendly policies, including tax incentives, streamlined regulations, and free trade agreements, were highlighted as major attractions for foreign investors. The region's stable political environment, coupled with a young and skilled workforce, further enhances its appeal as an investment destination.

Strategic location and connectivity: ASEAN's geographical advantage as a gateway to major Asian markets like China, India, and Japan was underscored. Additionally, the region's extensive network of ports, airports, and logistics infrastructure facilitates seamless trade and supply chain operations.

Sustainable and ethical practices: The sessions also emphasized the growing importance of sustainability and ethical practices in the global textile and apparel industry. ASEAN's commitment to promoting eco-friendly and socially responsible manufacturing practices was highlighted, making it an attractive destination for companies seeking to align with global sustainability standards.

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Data keypoints:

• ASEAN's apparel market is projected to grow at a CAGR of 6% from 2020 to 2025, reaching US$300 billion by 2025.

• The region's textile and apparel exports are expected to reach US$100 billion by 2025.

• ASEAN's young population (median age of 30) represents a dynamic workforce and consumer base.

• The region boasts a network of 10 free trade agreements, providing preferential access to key global markets.

• ASEAN's commitment to sustainability is evident in its various initiatives promoting green and ethical manufacturing practices.

Intertextile Session 2

Additional Insights:

• Experts suggested that investors consider focusing on high-value segments such as functional fabrics, technical textiles, and sustainable fashion.

• Collaborating with local partners and leveraging their market knowledge and expertise can be beneficial for foreign investors.

• It is crucial for companies to conduct thorough due diligence and understand the regulatory landscape in each ASEAN country.

• The sessions at Intertextile Shanghai served as a valuable platform for networking and knowledge exchange, fostering potential collaborations between industry players from across the globe.

Intertextile Session 3

The spotlight on ASEAN at Intertextile Shanghai has undoubtedly sparked interest and optimism among global textile and apparel investors. The region's potential for growth and development is undeniable, and its commitment to sustainability and ethical practices makes it a particularly attractive proposition for companies seeking to navigate the evolving landscape of the global textile industry.

  

Shaun the Sheep has been named the ‘ambaaa-ssador’ for British Wool and The Campaign for Wool in a three-year collaboration aimed at promoting wool flooring as sustainable and eco-friendly. Under the banner 'Shaun Loves Wool,' the campaign will officially kick off at The Flooring Show in Harrogate from September 15-17.

The initiative highlights wool's natural benefits, focusing on the entire supply chain from sheep farming to wool carpet yarn spinning and flooring manufacturing. British Wool, The Campaign for Wool, and the Wool Carpet Focus Group are central to the effort, with a special emphasis on educating consumers through retailer partnerships across the UK.

Key industry players, including flooring manufacturers such as Adam Carpets and yarn spinners like Danspin, are backing the campaign. Wool Safe, a wool flooring care group, is also involved.

Graham Clark, Marketing Director at British Wool, emphasized that the collaboration with Shaun the Sheep aims to boost consumer awareness of wool carpets and increase demand for British wool in the coming years.

Retailers will showcase educational point-of-sale materials to inform customers about wool’s sustainability and long-lasting qualities.

  

Premiere Vision Paris, an international platform for sustainable fashion, is reshaping its events to adapt to industry shifts. Covering the full value chainyarns, fabrics, designs, leather, accessories, and morethe show caters to luxury, premium, and broad distribution markets, serving as a global observatory for fashion's evolving landscape.

In response to sustainability challenges, technological advances, and changing consumer habits, the fashion division of GL events is revamping its event structure. Starting in 2025, Premiere Vision Paris will host two major events in February and September, while Blossom Premiere Vision will occur in early summer and December.

Florence Rousson, General Manager of GL events Fashion Division, highlighted the strategic shift, stating that the changes demonstrate their commitment to transforming the industry by supporting markets and driving the necessary changes forward.

The goal is to ensure Premiere Vision returns to its core mission of being a catalyst for growth, adapting to the industry’s dynamic needs and fostering collaboration across the sector.

  

Beaulieu International Group (BIG) has appointed Jean-Baptiste De Ruyck as its new CEO, marking a significant shift in leadership for the company. De Ruyck, 45, brings extensive experience in senior management and international finance. He previously led Abriso Jiffy, transforming it into a leading European entity in protective packaging and insulation. His past roles include CEO at Omni form and leadership positions in a Latin American start-up, with a background in investment banking in London.

De Ruyck's appointment underscores BIG's dedication to professional, independent leadership and introduces a fresh perspective on the company’s growth strategies. Chairman Dominiek De Clerck expressed enthusiasm about De Ruyck’s potential to drive new opportunities and stability, aligning with BIG.'s sustainable growth objectives.

Jean-Baptiste De Ruyck expressed his honor at joining Beaulieu International Group during this crucial time. He conveyed optimism about the future and enthusiasm for focusing on projects with significant growth potential. He also acknowledged the trust placed in him and expressed his eagerness to lead BIG into its next chapter of success.

De Ruyck will officially begin his role following a transitional period, taking over from Pol Deturck, who departed at the end of June 2024.

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