The fashion industry's environmental impact is undeniable, with tons of textile waste ending up in landfills each year. For example, the global fashion industry produces an estimated 92 million tons of textile waste annually. Less than 1 per cent of clothing is recycled into new clothing, highlighting the vast untapped potential for textile recycling. Recycling textiles can save significant amounts of water, energy, and resources compared to producing new garments. To combat the growing problem, governments and organizations worldwide are implementing innovative regulations to shift the industry towards a circular model, where garments are recycled instead of discarded.

EU leads the way

The EU has emerged as a frontrunner in textile recycling regulations, with its Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles aiming to make textile products more durable, repairable, reusable, and recyclable. By 2025, the EU will require separate collection of textile waste, paving the way for increased recycling rates. The strategy also encourages eco-design practices and aims to curb the release of microplastics from textiles. France has already implemented its Anti-Waste Law for a Circular Economy, which includes Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) schemes for textiles. Under EPR, producers are financially responsible for the end-of-life management of their products, incentivizing them to design for recyclability.

US taking action

In the US, legislation on textile recycling is gaining momentum. Several states have introduced bills aimed at reducing textile waste and promoting circularity. California, known for its environmental leadership, passed the Textile Recovery Act of 2023. This law establishes an EPR program for textiles, requiring producers to finance and manage the collection and recycling of their products. It also sets targets for increasing textile recycling rates, with the aim of diverting 75 per cent of textile waste from landfills by 2030.

New York is also taking steps to address textile waste. The Fashion Sustainability and Social Accountability Act, introduced in 2022, aims to hold large fashion companies accountable for their environmental and social impact. It requires them to disclose their supply chain and set targets for reducing their carbon footprint, water use, and waste generation.

Other countries in the lead

Sweden: Offers tax breaks for clothing repairs and incentivizes reuse and recycling through its EPR system for textiles.

Japan: Promotes textile recycling through its Act on the Promotion of Sorted Collection and Recycling of Containers and Packaging, which includes provisions for textile waste management.

Australia: The National Clothing Product Stewardship Scheme aims to establish a nationwide EPR system for clothing and textiles, promoting recycling and responsible waste management.

Impact on industry

The impact of these new laws and regulations is already being felt. In France, the ban on destroying unsold textiles has led to a 40 per cent increase in textile recycling in just one year. In California, the Textile Recovery Act is expected to create thousands of new jobs in the recycling sector and divert millions of tons of textiles from landfills.

Companies too are also responding to the changing regulatory landscape. Several major fashion brands have launched take-back programs, allowing customers to return old clothes for recycling. Some companies are even experimenting with innovative recycling technologies, such as chemical recycling, which can break down textiles into their original building blocks for reuse. For example, Patagonia's Worn Wear program encourages customers to repair, trade in, or recycle their old garments. The Renewal Workshop partners with brands to renew and resell damaged or returned items, extending their lifecycle. These initiatives showcase the potential for circular business models within the fashion industry.

Indeed, while regulations are essential, the textile recycling industry faces challenges, including the complexity of textile blends, the need for advanced recycling technologies, and the lack of consumer awareness. However, the growing momentum for sustainable practices and the increasing pressure on the fashion industry to reduce its environmental impact suggest a promising future for textile recycling. As more countries and companies embrace circular models, we can expect to see a significant shift toward a more sustainable and responsible fashion industry.