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UK’ leading sustainability exhibition, the Future Fabrics Expo unveiled innovative methods to promote textile recycling and eco-friendly dyeing techniques using lasers and enzymes. The event featured over 10,000 varied textiles and solutions designed to help the fashion industry adopt sustainable materials and move towards circular practices.
Among the exhibitors were the Textile Engineering and Materials Research Group (TEAM) from De Montfort University Leicester (DMU), showcasing collaborations that offer alternative materials and solutions to reduce the environmental impact of textile production and facilitate the industry's transition to circularity.
Professor Jinsong Shen, DMU, along with Loughborough University, highlighted innovations such as laser technology for dyeing textiles. This method significantly reduces energy, water, and chemical consumption compared to traditional techniques. Additionally, biotechnological approaches using enzymes for dyeing textiles provide a sustainable alternative, resulting in energy savings and reduced effluent waste.
Supported by industrial partners such as Camira Fabrics, the Woolmark Company, and Fox Brothers and Co, researchers from DMU and Loughborough University presented a groundbreaking biotechnology approach developed through a BBSRC-funded project. This initiative involves recycling waste wool and wool/bast fiber mixed fabrics, separating flax and hemp fibers from the waste, and recovering dyes in powder form from discarded wool fabrics. The recovered dyes can potentially be used to dye or print new wool fabrics, making mixed textile materials recyclable and reducing landfill waste.
The expo attracted a diverse audience eager to explore environmentally friendly solutions to the challenges facing the fashion industry, particularly the significant environmental footprint of traditional dyeing processes, which consume large amounts of water and energy.
Expressing enthusiasm about showcasing their innovative technologies in the Innovation Hub Zone at this year's Future Fabrics Expo, Professor Jinsong Shen, Head, TEAM-DMU, said, these pioneering innovations demonstrate University’s commitment to promote textile sustainability and support the industry’s shift towards circular practices.
As the Olympic Games approach, a coalition of human rights advocates and major Nike investors is urging the sportswear giant to pay $2.2 million in overdue wages to garment workers in Cambodia and Thailand. The demand, supported by 70 investors managing over $4 trillion in assets, calls out Nike's failure to address two significant labor rights violations.
In Cambodia, the Violet Apparel factory's closure in 2020 left workers without $1.4 million in legally owed wages. In Thailand, an illegal wage theft scheme at the Hong Seng Knitting factory deprived Burmese migrant workers of $800,000. Despite ongoing protests and global pressure, Nike has denied responsibility and ignored evidence of its products being manufactured at these factories.
The investors' resolution, set for discussion at Nike’s September annual meeting, emphasizes the contrast between Nike's substantial marketing expenditures and its refusal to pay workers. Rights groups, investors, and labor advocates continue to press Nike to address these injustices and uphold basic industry standards.
Christie Miedema from the Clean Clothes Campaign highlighted Nike's misplaced priorities, pointing out that the company spent $1 billion on marketing in early 2024 while refusing to pay $2.2 million owed to its workers. This inconsistency undermines Nike's image as a progressive, inclusive brand. Miedema emphasized that paying these workers is the only way for Nike to genuinely demonstrate care for the people in its supply chain.
The coalition demands immediate action from Nike to resolve these wage disputes and demonstrate genuine corporate responsibility.
A pioneer in digital textile printing, Orange O Tec will launch its ‘Made in Bharat’ digital textile printing machine, the Fabpro 1i at the GartexTexprocess exhibition in New Delhi on August 1, 2024.This launch marks Orange O Tec’s transition into a manufacturer of digital textile printing machines .
Orange O Tec has been an importer of digital textile printing machine for over a decade. However, the company-manufactured Fabpro 1i embodies the company’s vision and technical prowess. More than just a product; the machines symbolises Indian engineering excellence and innovation, designed to meet and exceed the high standards demanded by the textile industry.
Developed entirely in India, this cutting-edge machine incorporates advanced technology aimed at boosting productivity and ensuring top-tier print quality. With its Ricoh 8-head production system, the Fabpro 1i achieves an impressive speed of 2,200 linear meters per day, all within a compact design that maintains unparalleled precision.
Complementing this innovation is Orange O Tec’s comprehensive portfolio, offering bespoke digital inkjet printing solutions, software, ink, accessories, and professional services tailored to meet diverse customer needs. The Fabpro 1i is set to redefine standards in efficiency and reliability, providing businesses with a robust solution for their textile printing requirements.
Luxury conglomerate Kering SA has warned of a significant decline in profit during H2, FY24 due to cooling of luxury demand and ongoing challenges in reviving its flagship brand, Gucci.
The Paris-based company reported a 30 per cent decline its recurring operating income during the period compared to the same period last year. This follows a 19 per cent drop in comparable revenue for Gucci in the second quarter, surpassing the 15.9 per cent decline anticipated by analysts.
Despite appointing a new designer last year and distributing new collections more broadly, Gucci continues to face weak demand. ArmellePoulou, CFO, acknowledges, while the brand's new creations are well-received, demand for some of its staple leather products, such as the Marmont and Ophidia bags continues to decline.
Despite owning other brands like Balenciaga and Yves Saint Laurent, Kering continues to depend on Gucci, which accounted for about two-thirds of the group's profit in the first half. Notably, BottegaVeneta was the only major brand within Kering to register growth in the second quarter.
The luxury sector is experiencing a slowdown in demand for high-end bags and apparel. Even the sales of stalwart brands such as Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior, part of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton SE, fell short of expectations. This year, Kering's shares also declined by roughly 25 per cent. Owned by the Pinault family and led by François-Henri Pinault, the company continues to navitage a period of heightened uncertainty. Fragile consumer confidence across all regions could further impact demand for the company’s products, opines Poulou.
In H1, FY24, Kering reported a 42 per cent drop in recurring operating income to €1.58 billion ($1.7 billion), underscoring the challenges the company faces in the current market environment.
To be held from Sep 01-07, 2024, at Dubai Design District (d3), Dubai Fashion Week (DFW) SS 25 will showcase streetwear and haute couture collections by over 30 brands from countries including France, India, Indonesia, Italy, Kuwait, Lebanon, Libya, Malaysia, Palestine, Russia, the United Arab Emirates, and the United Kingdom.
Co-founded by Dubai Design District (d3), a global creative hub by Tecom Group PJSC, and the Arab Fashion Council, DFW epitomises excellence, foresight, and diversity in the fashion industry.
The first three days of DFW SS25 will highlight haute couture collections, offering high fashion and personalised shopping experiences in collaboration with distinguished retailers. The latter three days will focus on ready-to-wear collections from acclaimed designers such as Alia Bastamam, April & Alex, BenangJarum, BLSSD, DimaAyad, Lama Jouni, Mrs. Keepa, Born in Exile, Buttonscarves, Choice, Heaven Lights, Riva, Viva Vox, and Weinsanto.
These presentations are supported by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, the governing body behind Paris Fashion Week. The final day will emphasise private appointments and a buyers’ market.
This year, DFW will also introduce the International Buyers Program that aims to enable global retailers to enroll in DFW’s Tier Benefits. This program expands buyers’ reach and talent discovery within Dubai’s vibrant fashion ecosystem, further establishing the city as the region’s fashion capital.
Khadija Al Bastaki, Senior Vice President, Dubai Design District (d3) – part of Tecom Group says, DFW has unveiled incredible opportunities, partnerships, and global networks to participating designers and buyers. The event aims to push the envelope further with this latest edition, which includes a new buyer’s platform, an expanded venue, more events, and an extended schedule of designers. Dubai Fashion Week will once more raise the bar for fashion excellence and cement Dubai among the global fashion capitals.
Mohammed Aqra, Chief Strategy Officer, Arab Fashion Council, adds, a key objective of the Buyers Program is to foster meaningful connections between global retailers and the innovative designers that Dubai Fashion Week showcases. The positive feedback from the global fashion industry underscores the platform’s importance in the international arena.
Lingerie brand, Victoria’s Secret will revive its fashion show with a renewed focus on inclusivity and grandeur, As per Janie Scaffer, Chief Design and Creative Officer and Sarah Sylester, Executive Vice President-Market, celebrating the brand’s transformation, the revamped show will resonate with its current brand identity.
Held at Pier 94 in New York, the last Victoria’s Secret show in 2018 featured the iconic Victoria’s Secret Angels and performances by stars like Shawn Mendes and Halsey. However, the brand faced backlash due to allegations of a ‘culture of misogyny, bullying, and harassment; and criticism for its lack of diversity. Ed Razek, Chief Marketing Officer, quit in 2019 following controversy over his refusal to hire plus-size or transgender models.
Since then, Victoria’s Secret has become an independent public company and made strides toward inclusivity, as highlighted by the 2023 documentary ‘The Victoria’s Secret World Tour,; which showcased diverse global creatives.
Aiming for inclusivity, Sylvester emphasises on the company’s commitment to diversity, equity, and inclusion (DEI). In its upcoming edition, the show will represent all types of women on the runway, she adds.
Participants confirmed to participate in the show include Taylor Hill, American Model and Former Victoria’s Secret Angel and Mayowa Nicholas, Nigerian Model who will make her debut.
Symbolising strength and fragility, the iconic wings will return to the show. This year’s show will also feature a record number of models and a vast holiday collection, indicates Schaffer.
One of the highlights of the show will be the new VS Sport collection to be reintroduced with technical fabrics and high-fashion aesthetics.
The Featherweight Max bra will also be showcased alongside a new Featherweight front-close bra and other new products debuting this fall, accompanied by a significant marketing campaign.
The Pakistan Yarn Merchants Association (PYMA) has urged the federal government to implement immediate measures to reduce the cost of doing business in the domestic industry.
Shams Qaiser, Chairman, PYMA, warns, failure on the part of the government to meet these demands may result in the gradual shutting down of the industry.
The increase in power tariffs by the government has made it impossible for the industry to continue operating, he alleges.
Further, high production costs y have led to the closure of approximately 29 per cent of spinning mills and 20 per cent of knitting mills across the country, adds Qaiser. Additionally, out of 880,000 water jet machines, 32 per cent have ceased operations, he notes.
The closure of these mills will not only increase unemployment rates but also adversely affect the country’s export targets for the fiscal year, emphasises Qaiser.
He reveals, in the past few months, around 150,000 textile industry workers have lost their jobs.
To support the domestic industry, the government needs to reduce electricity rates, Qaiser urges.
Sohail Nisar, Senior Chairman, also highlights, the looming energy crisis as a significant threat to the industrial sector. Despite a demand for 22,000 MW, the nation is currently paying for 45,000 MW, with industries and the general public bearing the cost of underutilised capacity, he adds.
Skyrocketing capacity charges have severely impacted many industries, particularly in Punjab, where half of the region's spinning mills have shut down over the past two years.
Nisar also urges the government to renegotiate agreements with Independent Power Producers (IPPs) to alleviate the crisis. The future of Pakistan’s economy depends on the government's actions, he adds.
The share of European Union in global used clothing exports is estimated to continue growing in the next few years as collection rates continue to rise.
Currently, EU accounts for over a third of global used clothing exports, as per a report by the United Nations Economic Commission for Europe (UNECE) and the United Nations Economic Commission for Latin America and the Caribbean (ECLAC). Exports of used clothing from the region has tripled from 550,000 tons to 1.7 million tons over the past few decades, adds the report. .
However, despite this, the region is yet to adopt a design-led circular economy approach to clothing. Though it introduced key policies such as the EU Circular Economy Action Plan (CEAP) adopted in 2020, the EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles in 2022, and the EU Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation in 2023, these are yet to yield significant large-scale solutions to textile waste issues, shows the report.
Tatiana Molcean, Executive Secretary, UNECE, says, to foster circularity, traceability and sustainability in the industry. exporters and importers need to introduce new policies.
Many countries in Latin America including Argentina, Brazil, Colombia, Mexico, and Peru, have already banned clothing imports to protect prevent clothing dumps. Conversely, Chile imposes no tariffs or quantity restrictions on imports, requiring only sanitization through fumigation. This policy has made Chile one of the top 10 importers of used clothes globally and the leading importer in Latin America.
However, three-fourths of these imports are non-reusable, with 30,000 tons now polluting 30 hectare of the Atacama Desert, posing health risks to local communities.
While the trade in second-hand garments provides employment and income for national and migrant populations in Chile, the environmental and social issues must be addressed. The report recommends, EU and Chile need to jointly create robust regulatory frameworks to mitigate the impact of second-hand textile trade.
Jose Manuel Salazar-Xirinachs, Executive Secretary, UNECLAC proposes, the two companies should pioneer innovative approaches to set new global standards for the trade of used textiles with a focus on sustainability and social responsibility.
Additionally, the report recommends, international trade agreements, such as the 2023 Interim Trade Agreement between the EU and Chile, should be amended.
This agreement could serve as a model for other bilateral trade agreements between the EU and other countries to enhance cooperation and sustainability in the used textile trade, the report adds.
Summer's sizzling temperatures are prompting a shift in denim fashion, with a focus on lightweight fabrics, looser fits, and moisture-wicking technology. Consumers are demanding comfort and coolness, and designers are responding with innovative approaches to the classic material.
Lighter fabrics for breathability
Sweltering in heavy denim during the summer is passe. Brands are prioritizing lightweight fabrics, like chambray and seersucker, that allow for better air circulation. Cotton remains a go-to fiber for its natural breathability, but advancements like Tencel and linen blends offer even more comfort.
Weave construction for comfort
The way denim is woven can significantly impact how it feels on the skin. Seersucker's puckered texture creates space between the fabric and the wearer, while looser weaves allow for more airflow.
Focus on moisture-management
Technology is playing a key role in keeping summer denim cool. Brands are incorporating features like Coolmax fibers and Levi's Performance Cool to wick away moisture and keep wearers dry.
Shifting styles for the season
Skinny jeans are taking a backseat to looser fits like wide-leg, relaxed straight, and barrel leg silhouettes. Consumers are opting for styles that offer more airflow and comfort in hot weather. The cropped denim trend is also gaining traction, with cuts ranging from skinnies to wide-legs. For shorts, the trend leans towards longer inseams for women and a resurgence of jorts (jean shorts) for both men and women.
Color with a twist
While classic blue denim remains a staple, washes are getting a refresh. Men's denim is showcasing a more worn-in look, while women's is venturing into colors beyond blue. Neutrals like grey are gaining popularity, reflecting a minimalist aesthetic.
Consumer awareness
Consumers are increasingly aware of the technical aspects of denim and are seeking out features that address their comfort needs in hot weather. The rise of social media trends like cuffed jeans and DIY distressing reflects this growing interest in detail and customization.
The forecast for summer denim points towards continued innovation in fabrics, fits, and technology. As heatwaves become more frequent, expect to see even more performance-driven features integrated into denim design. Designers will likely cater to consumer demand for comfort and style, offering a wider range of lightweight, loose-fitting, and moisture-wicking denim options.
A name synonymous with excellence in the textile industry, House of Maruti plans to expand its operations in Dubai and the broader Gulf region. Renowned for its exceptional quality and innovative designs, this government-recognised export house aims to collaborate with leading fashion players in the region to deliver the latest in fashion to garment industries.
Founded in Surat, India’s textile hub, House of Maruti has built a formidable reputation over the years. The company operates through three distinct subsidiaries: Maruti Exim, handling global exports; Maruti Trendz, catering to the Indian domestic market; and Maruti Studio, specializing in digital printing and bespoke fabric creations. This diversified approach allows House of Maruti to seamlessly blend traditional craftsmanship with cutting-edge technology, resulting in luxurious textiles for a discerning global clientele.
The company's strategic expansion began in earnest with the opening of its Dubai office in 2011, explains Vikas Modi,, Co-founder .The company has grown significantly in the Gulf region and the Middle East since establishing its presence in Dubai. It now aims to collaborate with leading fashion players in the region to further extend the reach of its world-class textiles and craftsmanship.
House of Maruti boasts an impressive product portfolio, including fabrics made from polyester, cotton, viscose, and various blends, along with intricate embroidery and cutting-edge digital prints. The company’s long-standing relationships with suppliers and rigorous quality control measures ensure that each product meets the highest standards of quality and consistency.
From its humble beginnings in Surat, House of Maruti has expanded its presence across the Middle East, Africa, and other regions. In addition to Dubai, the company has established operations in Saudi Arabia and several African countries. Its products are distributed in Kuwait, Iran, Iraq, and other parts of the Middle East, as well as in Nigeria, Sudan, Senegal, Morocco, and South-East Asian markets such as Indonesia and Thailand.
