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Chinese consumers’ enthusiasm for international fast fashion retailers such as H&M has cooled off. The company’s sales growth declined in the Chinese Mainland, with the figure at four per cent in the second quarter of this year, compared with an average of more than 20 per cent before 2015.
Fast fashion retailers chase the latest designs at lowest cost, so their quality can't match that of items produced in a long manufacturing cycle. Substandard quality is a common problem among fast fashion brands. Batches of fast fashion clothes are being sent back or destroyed due to unqualified color fastness or pH or formaldehyde readings higher than the required limit.
Competition in the fast fashion segment has escalated in recent years, mainly due to the growth of local brands. The fast rise of domestic brands including Urban Revivo, Peace Bird and Heilan Home poses a challenge and threats global counterparts. Between its establishment in 2006 and August this year, Urban Revivo opened more than 160 stores in China and abroad. In August alone, it opened four stores, compared with H&M’s 21 in China in the first half. Fast fashion is changing into ultra fast fashion. Shoppers increasingly want it now and production cycles are speeding up.
Cotton USA will present to the global textile and apparel industry what’s new in cotton, including US cotton-rich fabrics created with innovative technology, at its booth in Hall 6, D60 at Première Vision in Paris from September 19 to 21.
Cotton USA invites attendees to visit the booth to learn about its collaboration with leading brands and retailers around the world, as well as how to license the Cotton USA mark, which quantitative consumer research proves is of high value to consumers and can drive both preference and higher prices. For the first time at Premiere Vision, Cotton Council International (CCI), Cotton Incorporated and Supima will exhibit jointly in one large cotton pavilion to showcase cotton innovation, including innovation in technologies, fabric blends, performance, design and fashion.
Cotton USA will showcase the US cotton industry’s sustainability efforts, global cotton market developments, the findings of current market and consumer studies, and its ongoing Sourcing Programs that match US cotton buyers and suppliers throughout the supply chain.
CCI Executive Director Bruce Atherley says innovation is one reason that Cotton USA has become the cotton the world trusts. At Premiere Vision, ‘what’s new in cotton’ section will showcase innovative technologies, or thinking that will inspire brands with new ideas for cotton and cotton blended fabrics. The objective is to inspire everyone in the textile business to think about the many opportunities in US cotton, and you will want to visit the booth to learn more about innovative cotton fabrics.
The company is dedicated in providing the entire supply chain with networking opportunities, ongoing education, and the latest research and technological innovations says Atherley.
Eco-friendly Hong Kong fashion label BYT wants to make a difference to a wasteful industry in a city with a throwaway culture. It crafts clothing from textile waste and by upcycling and reworking old pieces.
Sustainable fashion has had a bad rap over the years, as designers struggle to create collections that are commercially viable, fashionable and relevant to the consumer. BYT promotes the concept that sustainable fashion is the future and can be marketable and profitable.
As a concept, BYT takes fashion waste, in particular, surplus luxury fabrics, and transforms them into beautiful, affordable clothing using sustainable and socially responsible supply chains. Everything is produced in Asia, using sustainable manufacturers and social enterprises. The collection features several styles based on wardrobe staples such as the biker jacket, trench coat or tailored blazer – all of which have been crafted from fabric waste sourced from luxury brands and suppliers. The look is modern with a twist, allowing each piece to be styled individually depending on the wearer.
The biggest challenge was the fabric. BYT sometimes gets restrictions on certain fabric quantities, which means it has to be creative with design and production to achieve the numbers. BYT is an affordable luxury brand, not a fast fashion brand, so the goal is to make a luxurious and beautiful product using waste.
The world’s top cotton buyers, all in Asia, are flocking to India. Fierce hurricanes in the United States, the biggest exporter of the fiber, have affected the size and quality of the crop this year. Buyers are switching to Indian cotton. This could help India’s exports grow by a quarter in the 2017-18 season beginning October. Two fierce hurricanes -- Harvey and Irma -- caused widespread damage to the crop in Texas and Georgia, major cotton producing states. India is also the world’s biggest cotton producer.
Favorable crop conditions would help India sell 7.5 million bales of cotton on the world market in 2017-18 against six million bales in the previous year. Hobbled by the rising rupee and unattractive global prices, India was struggling to sign export deals until a few weeks ago. But a recent rally in global prices made selling overseas more competitive.
Other than attractive prices, close proximity encouraged most Asian buyers to turn to India. While cargoes from the United States take about 50 days to reach Vietnam, Bangladesh and Pakistan, India can ship its cotton in two weeks. India’s new season crop will be available to buyers from October, but the supplies from the United States will reach consumers only in January.
Bangladesh was the sixth largest importer of textiles across the world in 2016. During the year Bangladesh imported textiles worth $7.15 billion mostly from China and India. In the previous year, that is, 2015, textile imports reached $10 billion.
The decline in textile imports by Bangladesh is mainly due to a slowdown in demand from the industry. The import value of textiles was $6.8 billion in 2014 and $6.2 billion in 2013. The European Union was the largest importer of textiles last year followed by the United States and China. Vietnam and Japan ranked as fourth and fifth respectively.
China is the largest exporter of textiles followed by the EU and India. Bangladesh has set a target of earning $50 billion from readymade garment exports by 2021. The readymade garment sector is a vital industrial sector of Bangladesh which is immensely contributing to the country’s export earnings, employment generation and value addition. Contributing approximately 80 per cent of the country’s total export earnings, Bangladesh is the second largest apparel exporter in the world, next to China.
Efforts are being made to ensure a safe, sound, green, environment-friendly and a vibrant garment sector. Out of 10 eco-friendly factories of the world, seven are located in Bangladesh.
Asia Pacific is anticipated to remain at the forefront of global market for apparel accessories throughout 2017 to 2022. A steady rise of the region, an expanding base of working class population, availability of ample amount of raw materials and cost-friendly labor resources are factors that are playing an important role in driving the growth of apparel accessories market in the Asia Pacific.
The region is anticipated to command a considerable revenue share of global market as well as reflect a steady CAGR. On the basis of apparel accessory types, demand for handkerchiefs is expect to gain traction in future. In terms of revenue, sales of handkerchief currently command nearly 14 per cent share of the global market.
Demand for apparel accessories with economy pricing is expected to remain considerably high. Currently, the economy apparel accessories segment accounts for nearly 39 per cent of revenues of the market. The segment is expected to reflect a CAGR of over four per cent during the forecast period. Modern trade is expected to remain the largest sales channel for apparel accessories over 2022. Each year, a large bulk of apparel accessories are sold through modern trade.
US-based A&E has partnered CGS to improve productivity, quality and employee motivation within manufacturing operations in Sri Lanka. A&E is a global leader in premium quality industrial and consumer sewing thread, embroidery thread and technical textiles. CGS, also US-based, is a provider of business applications, enterprise learning and outsourcing services. It has offices across North America, South America, Europe, the Middle East and Asia.
Sri Lanka's apparel manufacturing facilities are among the most sophisticated in the world. These world class operators have the ability to further enhance production efficiency through the use of A&E’s premium sewing thread and CGS’ real time technology in Blue Cherry Shop Floor Control.
Sewn products manufacturers are challenged to improve productivity and efficiency in order to reduce throughput time and production costs and improve quality and reduce work in process inventory levels. CGS' Blue Cherry Shop Floor Control provides tools that automate the collection and reporting of production, enabling real-time shop floor visibility and control, improving factory operations and productivity while reducing costs.
A&E is committed to the marketplace in the advancement of improved manufacturing operations and productivity. CGS is looking forward to building a strong relationship with A&E in the Sri Lanka market.
"Retail analysts closely following the US apparel trends feel the athleisure trend is going to end soon. The insight came as Dick’s Sporting Goods reported its same-store sales performance up by a weak 0.1 per cent in the second quarter. John Zolidis, President of Quo Vadis Capital, pointed out skidding athleisure sales contributed to lackluster revenues at Big Five Sporting Goods, Hibbett Sports, Lululemon, Under Armour and Nike."
Retail analysts closely following the US apparel trends feel the athleisure trend is going to end soon. The insight came as Dick’s Sporting Goods reported its same-store sales performance up by a weak 0.1 per cent in the second quarter. John Zolidis, President of Quo Vadis Capital, pointed out skidding athleisure sales contributed to lackluster revenues at Big Five Sporting Goods, Hibbett Sports, Lululemon, Under Armour and Nike. Some of these stores should be benefiting from the Sports Authority closing 450 stores across the nation last year after the large sporting-goods chain filed for bankruptcy. Southern California–based Sport Chalet also filed for bankruptcy last year, shuttering 47 stores.
As per The NPD Group, activewear sales for men, women and children added up to $45 billion for the 12 months ending in June, which is not even a marginal growth in the business. In comparison, non-activewear totaled $170 billion in sales for the 12 months ending in June, down slightly from a year ago. Athleisure is still growing but slowing. Part of the slowdown is the nature of the product, feels Marshal Cohen, Retail Analyst, The NPD Group. Cohen says, athleisure has entered that area where everyone is getting into the game and prices are coming down rapidly. Target is putting together a good sports bra for $19 and an athletic bottom for $39 compared to other brands that sell a bra for $79 and a bottom for $120. Then there is the fashion part of it, which doesn’t change much. Leggings are leggings with only a few things such as prints changing seasonally.
Counter views
Offering another perspective, Roseanne Morrison, Fashion Director, The Doneger Group, a trend forecasting and retail advisory company in New York, points out people are still working out. Girls are extremely competitive about what they are wearing, and they want to keep up with the trend, look their best and see what other people are wearing. This lifestyle trend to be fit and well is a shift in our culture.
Deborah Weinswig, a global retail analyst and MD, Fung Global, also feels the same way and believes it has enough energy to keep jogging. However, it does appear to be entering a new phase. Consumers still want to incorporate sport-styled designs into their everyday wardrobe. Athleisure for men is one area that continues to gain momentum. That was seen at athleisure retailer Lululemon Athleta, which now sees menswear making up 20 per cent of its total revenues.
Manik Aryapadi, Principal-retail practice, AT Kearney, is of the view athleisure has grown at a double-digit pace over the last three years but is hitting some headwinds. Retailers fear Amazon will be stepping into the arena with their own private athleisure label, adding to the fact that the field is already crowded as more companies enter the category. There are possibilities that Amazon could partner with a big athleisure brand, much like it did with Nike. By 2021, Amazon is expected to account for 16.2 per cent of apparel sales, or $62 billion, followed by TJ Maxx and Macy’s.
Innovation still driving athleisure
Innovation is going to draw the game here in a big way. Outdoor Voices, a relatively young athleisure retailer started in 2013, is attempting to bring in innovation in this space. Recently it collaborated with French cult retailer APC to develop a limited collection that had well-fitting and long-lasting pieces that could be worn every day. Currently, Outdoor Voices has three stores and three pop-ups, with one at The Grove in Los Angeles, but it is planning to expand its store footprint this year and next, giving athleisure a new look and a new voice.
In the first eight months of 2017, Vietnam’s textile and garment exports grew 9.9 per cent year on year. The US remained Vietnam’s leading market, accounting for 51 per cent of the market share.
However, Vietnam imports 60 per cent of its fiber as cotton farms in Vietnam have shrunk significantly and meet only 0.04 per cent of the domestic textile sector’s demand. The country is one of the world’s leading importers of fabrics and materials. The shortage of high-quality materials for production is the biggest barrier to Vietnam’s textile and garment industry, hindering the country from taking advantage of free trade agreements.
Vietnam’s textile and apparel sector has set a target of seven per cent growth over 2016. Currently, Vietnamese garment and textile products are available in 40 countries and territories around the world, with major markets including the United States, Japan, the Republic of Korea, China and the EU. Vietnam is one of the five largest textile and garment exporters in the world.
Vietnam's Ho Chi Minh City will build large centers for designing fashion, trading garments, textile material and accessories to become the country’s future garment, textile material and accessory hub. Ho Chi Minh City has set targets of meeting 80 to 90 per cent of Vietnam's demand for garments and textiles by 2020.
Maharashtra is encouraging tussar weavers, a handwoven fabric of Vidarbha. Weavers will be trained for making tussar fabric. Yarn is provided at the weavers' doorsteps who, in turn, make the garments which are marketed by the Maharashtra State Handlooms Corporation (MSHC).
Tussar weaving is a dying art. There are less than a 100 weavers living in the villages of Nagpur and Bhandara districts. Most of them are above 60 years. As their number is fast diminishing, MSHC has started the process to bring forth a new generation of tussar weavers.
Tussar silk is an exquisite thread obtained from a wide winged moth that is yellowish-brown in color. Produced mainly in India, tussar is highly valued for its natural gold colors. The cost difference between tussar silk and other forms of silk arises from the fact that the former is not fed on mulberry.
A lot more textured than mulberry silk, tussar silk is used in the creation of tussar silk saris and silk suits. Indian attire inspired from traditions and values easily take shape in tussar silk. The dull gold texture that it radiates works as a suitable base for embroideries as well as print motifs that have been inspired by nature. Floral patterns as well as those in the shape of trees, buds, leaves and leaflets serve as a source of inspiration for tussar silk.
