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Cotton made in Africa (CmiA), a sustainable cotton standard, partnered with the Zambia Agriculture Research Institute to survey small-scale cotton farmers in Zambia on how climate change is affecting agriculture and biodiversity. The results show that biodiversity loss, driven by deforestation, poaching, and settlement expansion, is taking a toll on cotton cultivation, with species disappearing and soil quality declining.
Farmers report seeing the impact through soil degradation, diminished yields, and water shortages. Biodiversity indicators like fungi loss and the proliferation of weeds reflect these changes, which are further compounded by extreme weather patterns.
To combat this, farmers are employing sustainable practices such as crop rotation, composting, and integrated pest management. By minimizing the use of chemicals and focusing on organic methods, they aim to preserve soil health and biodiversity.
CmiA has long promoted environmental sustainability, conducting regular training for farmers to enhance resilience against climate change. The survey involved 46 percent men and 54 percent women across six focus groups, with a majority of participants living in the area for over 10 years.
Kraig Biocraft Laboratories has announced its largest-ever production cycle for its BAM-1 spider silk line. Utilizing its newly expanded production center, the company will more than double its previous caterpillar production record.
The batch has been divided into two groups: 20 per cent are BAM-1 hybrids for reeling silk, while 80 per cent consists of two BAM-1 parental lines. These lines will crossbreed to produce millions of first-generation BAM-1 hybrid silkworm eggs for future production.
The first-generation hybrids are produced by crossbreeding the BAM-1 parental lines, creating stronger production cocoons with enhanced reeling performance. Kraig Labs is maintaining a smaller population of these parental lines alongside the hybrids to accelerate BAM-1 hybrid egg production.
CEO Kim Thompson stated that this milestone underscores the company’s commitment to expanding its spider silk production to meet growing demand in the performance materials market.
The fashion industry, a trendsetter known for its volatility, is facing a new challenge – a climate one. Sweltering heatwaves are disrupting business as usual, forcing brands to adapt to a world where scorching summers are becoming the norm.
A 2022 study by the World Meteorological Organization highlights, extreme heat events are becoming more common across the globe. North America, Europe, South Asia (including India), and parts of Africa have witnessed record-breaking temperatures in recent years. Similarly, a 2023 report by the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) predicts a rise in extreme weather events, with heatwaves being a major concern. According to a study published in Nature Climate Change, regions like Europe, North America, and South Asia are experiencing a significant increase in heatwave frequency and intensity.
This means countries that traditionally relied on winter clothing sales, like Canada or Russia, are seeing a shift in consumer behavior. This shift aligns with a 2023 consumer survey by McKinsey & Company which indicated a growing preference for natural, temperature-regulating fabrics.
From fur to linen, product shifts due to the heat
"We're seeing a clear decline in demand for heavy winter wear," says Marie Durant, head of design at a Montreal-based fashion house. Brands are responding by introducing lighter fabrics like linen and breathable synthetics into their collections, even in traditionally colder regions. The same climate patterns causing heatwaves can also lead to harsher winters, says a recent study in Geophysical Research Letters. This might seem contradictory, but it's due to disruptions in jet stream patterns. The future of fashion might involve a wardrobe that caters to both extremes.
While heatwaves could disrupt winter wardrobes, milder winters could lead to decreased demand for heavy jackets and boots. However, the unpredictable nature of climate change might also see an increase in extreme cold snaps, making versatile clothing a necessity.
Supply chain strain, raw material blues
What’s more, the heat isn't just affecting consumer preferences; it's impacting raw material production. Cotton, a staple fabric, is particularly vulnerable. A 2021 study by the World Wildlife Fund highlights how droughts associated with heatwaves can significantly reduce cotton yields. Similar concerns exist for other natural fibers like wool, where changing weather patterns can affect livestock health and wool quality.
Therefore, the future of fashion in a heating world will likely be defined by sustainability and adaptability. Brands that embrace eco-friendly fabrics made from recycled materials or natural fibers requiring less water could gain an edge. Additionally, the ability to offer versatile, season-less clothing will be key. "The fashion industry needs to become more responsive to climate change," says Aarti Rajwani, Founder of sustainable clothing label Reformation. "We need to innovate and adapt to create clothes that are not only stylish but also practical for a hotter world."
While some might see a potential boom in summer clothing sales, the overall impact on the fashion industry remains uncertain. Disruptions in the supply chain, rising costs of raw materials, and the need for constant design innovation could all lead to higher prices for consumers. The true impact will depend on the industry's ability to adapt and embrace sustainable practices.
Fashion's future forecast
The fashion industry is at a crossroads. Climate change presents a significant challenge, but it also offers an opportunity for innovation and a shift towards a more sustainable future. Brands that can adapt to the changing climate and consumer needs will likely thrive, while those clinging to old models might find themselves out in the cold, even during a scorching summer. This is just the beginning of a changing fashion landscape. As the climate continues to shift, the way we dress will undoubtedly evolve alongside it.
At the ITMF+IAF Joint Conference 2024 held earlier this month in Samarkand, Uzbekistan, Ajay Sardana, President & Head-Petchem Industry Affairs at Reliance Industries, delivered a compelling presentation highlighting the growing dominance of polyester in global textile industry.
Polyester's ‘magical’ properties
Sardana began by emphasizing polyester’s versatility, calling it the ‘magical fiber’ due to its wide-ranging applications across various sectors, from high-fashion to sportswear, home furnishings to technical textiles. Its blendability, lightweight nature, breathability, hypoallergenic properties, and ease of maintenance further contribute to its popularity.
Global fibre demand
Backed by statistics, Sardana argued that while cotton consumption is expected to grow at a modest 2 per cent CAGR, polyester is projected to experience a significantly higher growth rate of 4 per cent CAGR. This increase in demand is attributed to polyester's adaptability and its ability to blend seamlessly with other fibres.
|
Major fibre demand (in KT) |
2023 |
2030 (Projected) |
CAGR |
|
Cotton |
23,793 |
27,535 |
2.10% |
|
Total Polyester |
61,668 |
81,199 |
4.00% |
|
Polypropylene |
7,963 |
9,653 |
2.80% |
|
Total Cellulosic |
6,921 |
8,457 |
2.90% |
|
Nylon Filament Yarn |
4,867 |
5,827 |
2.60% |
|
Acrylic |
1,290 |
1,374 |
0.90% |
|
Total |
107,891 |
135,517 |
3.30% |
Polyester's growing popularity in India
Sardana highlighted India as a key market for polyester growth, with a projected CAGR of 5.1 per cent, outpacing global average. He attributed this growth to supportive government policies, increased use in non-woven and technical textiles, evolving consumer trends, and a growing workforce.
|
Total Polyester Demand (in KT) |
2023 |
2030 (Projected) |
CAGR |
|
India |
6,154 |
8,723 |
5.10% |
|
China |
39,386 |
51,543 |
3.90% |
|
World |
61,668 |
81,199 |
4.00% |
Sardana's presentation showcased a promising picture for the future of polyester, driven by its versatility, sustainability, and growing demand in emerging markets like India. Reliance Industries, with its integrated presence and focus on innovation, is poised to play a pivotal role in shaping this future.
In the first seven months of this year, spanning Jan-July’24, Bangladesh recorded a 4.84 per cent decline in apparel exports to the European Union (EU). Data from Eurostat, the statistical of the European Union shows, Bangladesh’s apparel exports to the EU declined to $11.11 billion during the period as against $11.68 billion reported during the same period in 2023. This decline is slightly better than the overall 5.22 per cent drop in the EU’s total apparel imports, which fell from $52.60 billion in 2023 to $49.85 billion in 2024.
Industry insiders expressed concerns that, despite Bangladesh faring better than some competitors, the reduction in exports highlights challenges in maintaining its competitive edge in the EU market. They pointed to factors such as rising utility costs, gas shortages, and wage increases, which have weakened Bangladesh’s position.
The broader decline in EU apparel imports from several countries indicates potential shifts in consumer demand and economic challenges within the apparel sector. For example, the EU’s apparel imports from China fell by 7.34 per cent to $12.34 billion as against $13.31 billion during the same period in 2023. Similarly, Turkey’s exports to the EU decreased by 8.55 per cent, to $5.89 billion in 2024 from $6.44 billion in 2023.
India also experienced a smaller decline in exports to the EU, with its readymade garment (RMG) exports falling by 1.93 per cent, reaching $2.96 billion, compared to $3.01 billion in the previous year. Meanwhile, Vietnam’s apparel exports to the EU in the first seven months of 2024 dropped by 5.07 per cent to $2.19 billion from $2.31 billion in 2023.
Contrary to this, apparel exports by Cambodia to the EU rose by 10.36 per cent to $2.03 billion, while Pakistan saw a 6.32 per cent increase, reaching $2.06 billion. Morocco also posted a 4.05 per cent growth in apparel exports to the EU increasing amounting to $1.73 billion.
Experts believe, such strong performances by Cambodia and Pakistan suggest a shift in EU sourcing preferences, underscoring the need for suppliers to adapt to changing market dynamics. In contrast, Sri Lanka’s apparel exports to the EU declined by 4.45 per cent, while Indonesia’s exports fell by 8.86 per cent.
Amid rising investment interests in the sector, Morocco and China have reaffirmed their commitment to explore strategic partnerships in the textile sector of both the countries.
In a meeting with a delegation from the China National Textile and Apparel Council, Mochine Jazouli, Minister Delegate for Investment, Morocco discussed opportunities for a collaboration between the two countries. Bringing together 20 business leaders, the meeting focused on enhancing cooperation in the textile sector and showcased the industrial potential of both nations.
Moroccan representatives presented an overview of the country’s industrial capabilities, highlighting its strategic position as a member of the African Continental Free Trade Area (AfCFTA). This position makes Morocco an attractive destination for global investors looking to access African markets.
Chinese companies are already active in Morocco's textile sector, with several companies investing MAD 300 million ($30 million) and creating employment opportunities in the sector. By 2025, these companies aim to employ nearly 2,000 people.
In early September, Lei Xu, President, Sunrise International, a Chinese textile giant announced a $422.2 million investment in Morocco during a meeting with Aziz Akhannouch, Head of Government. The investment is expected to create 11,000 direct jobs over the next three years across various Moroccan provinces and regions, Lie Xu said.
The Moroccan Government has long emphasised the importance of the textile industry as a key pillar of its investment strategy. In 2022, Abdellatif Jouahri, Governor, Central Bank, Morocco, highlighted, the textile sector accounted for 32.3 per cent of the country’s production enterprise, up from an average of 25.6 per cent between 2000 and 2018.
With growing Chinese investments and strategic collaborations, the textile sector is poised to play an even more crucial role in Morocco’s economic growth and development.
Timberland and American Eagle have launched a collaborative collection of 14- athleisure pieces comprising anorak jackets, flannels and waterproof lace-up boots in sizes XS to XXL. The apparels in this collection are priced from $34.95 to $139.95 while the hats and boots are priced in the range of $19.95-$170.
The collection mostly includes menswear. However, the apparel pieces can also be styled for women. Though mostly comprising technical outdoor apparel, the range also offers everyday wear.
The collaboration also plans to launch a 19-piece outerwear and footwear capsule collection on Oct 24, and a 12-piece denim and denim-inspired footwear collection on Dec 12. These collections will blend American Eagle’s denim roots with Timberland’s heritage craftsmanship, besides evoking a sense of the’90s nostalgia, says Jennifer Foyle, President and Executive Creative Director of American Eagle and Aerie.
An integral part of many brands’ strategies, collaborations help brands expand their customer base and reach new markets.
Last week,VF Corp-owned Timberland launched a 6-inch boot in collaboration with streetwear brand JJJJound. Earlier in the year, Timberland launched a collection in partnership with Japan-based streetwear label White Mountaineering, and a 2022 capsule with stylist Veneda Carter.
Meanwhile, the Q2, FY24 revenues of Timberland’s parent company VF Corp declined by 9 per cent Y-o-Y with the boot brand’s revenue declining by 10 per cent during the quarter. On the other hand, the Q2, FY24 revenues of American Eagle increased by 8 per cent Y-o-Y to $1.3 billion. The earnings followed the company’s launch of its fall back-to-school campaign and a new brand platform featuring a refreshed ‘Live Your Life’ marketing message aimed at its core Generation Alpha, millennial and Generation Z customers.
Thai Acrylic Fibre Co, (TAF) has teamed up with the FibreTrace technology to offer full transparency and verification of its Regel fiber.
Representing a major step in TAF’s dedication to sustainability and accountability within the textile industry, this partnership enables TAF to integrate the FibreTrace technology to ensure complete traceability of Regel fiber across the value chain.
This innovative solution embeds a luminescent pigment ID directly into the raw fiber, enabling tracking from the fiber stage all the way through to yarn, fabric, garment, and beyond. The unique pigment supports a digital passport that physically tracks the raw fiber, documenting its journey, authenticity, and supply chain transparency.
By adopting the FibreTrace technology, TAF ensures complete visibility and verifiability of its production process. This capability not only meets the rising demand for sustainable and ethically sourced materials but also enhances consumer confidence by ensuring the authenticity of TAF’s products.
This innovation not only improves the traceability of the Regel fiber but also sets a new industry standard. It is part of the company’s larger strategy to lead the market in sustainability, quality, and consumer trust, says Tuhin Kulshreshtha, Vice President- Business Development, TAF.
The FibreTrace technology is recognised as the original and most reliable solution for fiber traceability, embedding a traceable pigment into fibers to track and share each product's origin and journey through the supply chain. In an era where consumers increasingly value environmental responsibility and ethical production, this transparency is crucial for building trust and ensuring accountability.
After a decline in 2023, China’s textile, clothing and accessories exports rose by 1.12 per cent in Jan-July’24 period.
China exported goods worth $169.8 billion in these three categories over the seven-month period. Its textile exports increased by 3,3 per cent to $80,8 billion during these seven months as compared to the same period in 2023, according to the figures from Chinese Customs. However, clothing exports by the country fell by 0.8 per cent to $88.9 billion over these seven months.
Although much smaller than the decline seen last year, this drop in exports reflects ongoing international economic challenges affecting Chinese manufacturers.
Chinese clothing and accessories producers remain heavily reliant on Western orders, while textile manufacturers supply materials to several Asian countries that feed production chains for Europe and the Americas. Last year, consumer spending in these regions slowed due to inflation, causing buyers to place fewer orders.
The slow recovery in exports comes at a time when Chinese manufacturers cannot easily pivot toward domestic demand. Despite its size, the Chinese market is grappling with the effects of a property crisis, which lowered growth to 4.7 per cent in Q2, FY24 and limited household consumption growth to 2 per cent Y-o-Y.
This economic strain led Chinese leaders to hold an emergency meeting in mid-July, which resulted in a surprise cut in short-term interest rates to encourage spending.
Despite these challenges, China's sub-council for the textile industry (CCPIT-Tex) remains optimistic. In addition to modernising and automating its industrial base to reduce costs and lead times, the council is betting on the positive impact of the New Silk Road initiative. Countries participating in the initiative, including Bangladesh, Cambodia, Indonesia, Myanmar, Pakistan, the UAE, Egypt, and Turkey, account for over 50 per cent of China’s textile and clothing exports, offering potential for continued growth in the sector.
The flagship brand of the Inditex Group, Zara is set to unveil a new campaign for its highly anticipated collaborative collection with renowned Italian designer Stefano Pilati.
Captured by acclaimed American photographer Steven Meisel in New York, the campaign features Pilati alongside supermodel Gisele Bündchen, showcasing standout pieces from the ‘Stefano Pilati x Zara’ capsule collection.
Known for his timeless elegance, Pilati brings his signature style to the collection, featuring fluid fabrics and perfectly tailored silhouettes that blend refinement with effortless sophistication. Comprising 30 pieces designed for both men and women, the collection also includes an extensive selection of accessories such as shoes and leather goods.
A part of Zara’s ongoing strategy to elevate its brand through partnerships with influential designers, the collaboration is expected to reflect Pilati’s distinguished career, which includes pivotal roles at prestigious fashion houses like Yves Saint Laurent and Ermenegildo Zegna. Currently focused on his personal label, Random Identities, Pilati has gained a cult following for his avant-garde, gender-fluid designs.
Over the years, Zara has worked with notable names such as Cuban-American designer Narciso Rodríguez, Dutch creative collective Kassl Editions, and South Korean label Ader Error. The latter marked Zara's entry into the digital world with a presence in the Zepeto metaverse. More recently, Zara collaborated with British stylist Harry Lambert on a vibrant, circus-themed collection.
Beyond fashion, Zara's sister brand, Zara Home, has also pursued high-profile collaborations, including a recent partnership with the renowned French publishing house Éditions Gallimard.
Founded in 1974, Zara ended 2023 with 1,811 stores worldwide, a mix of company-owned and franchised locations. As part of the Inditex Group, which also includes brands like Massimo Dutti, Bershka, Stradivarius, Pull&Bear, Oysho, and Lefties, Zara continues to be a key player in the global fashion market.
Under the leadership of Marta Ortega, Co-Founder, Inditex reported strong financial performance, with revenues rising by 7.2 per cent Y-o-Y to €18.065 billion in the first half of the current fiscal year. The company is also expanding operationally, with new directors joining its executive committee for the Bershka and Stradivarius brands, and Zara pushing forward its commitment to sustainability with the development of a second-hand platform. Additionally, the brand is enhancing its digital presence through the launch of Zara's livestream shopping service.
