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A recent Stanford University study ‘How the Apparel Industry Could Refashion Itself with Sustainability in Mind’ highlights the need for the apparel industry to embrace sustainability. The research points to the rise of fast fashion – cheap, trendy clothing with a short lifespan – as a major culprit behind the industry's growing environmental impact, particularly textile waste.
Fast fashion's environmental toll
The study emphasizes that current practices are unsustainable. The mass production of low-quality garments leads to a surge in textile waste, which ends up in landfills. This has significant environmental consequences.
The researchers propose alternative models that prioritize sustainability without sacrificing profitability. One solution is for companies to establish garment collection and buyback programs. These programs, coupled with secondhand stores, can extend the life cycle of clothing and reduce demand for new items. . “While some firms have taken positive steps, the apparel sector overall shows no signs of becoming more sustainable," says Barchi Gillai, Associate Director of the Value Chain Innovation Initiative (VCII) at Stanford and co-author of the paper.
Closing the loop with textile-to-textile recycling
Circularity refers to a closed-loop system where used textiles are recycled back into new clothing, minimizing waste and resource consumption. The study highlights the importance of textile-to-textile recycling. This closed-loop system would not only divert textile waste from landfills but also lessen the environmental impact associated with virgin resource extraction and garment production.
Rethinking production and consumption
The study underscores the need for a multifaceted approach. Encouraging companies to innovate with sustainable materials like recycled fabrics and biosynthetics is crucial. Additionally, a shift in consumer behavior – prioritizing quality over quantity and embracing pre-owned clothing – is essential for long-term sustainability. Also, responsible disposal through garment donation is highlighted as a key step.
Sustainable future for fashion
"The responsibility to make the apparel industry more sustainable falls on all of us," says Gillai. "This white paper offers a roadmap for companies to navigate this crucial shift." Manufacturers need to embrace sustainable practices throughout the supply chain, while consumers must become more conscious of their clothing choices and disposal habits.
The Stanford research offers a roadmap for the apparel industry's path towards a more sustainable future. By adopting these recommendations, the industry can minimize its environmental footprint while catering to the growing consumer demand for eco-conscious fashion.
The 5th TAG meeting, attended by prominent government officials and industry leaders including Minister for Textiles Giriraj Singh, took place today, focusing on the textile industry's growth and challenges. The meeting aimed to achieve the total textile trade target of $350 billion by 2030.
Key issues discussed included:
Raw material shortage: The industry faces a severe shortage of PTA, a basic raw material. The government acknowledged the issue and will address the price difference and shortage.
Illegal imports: The industry requested restrictions on illegal knitted fabric imports from China. The Textile Minister agreed to consider the proposal. Re-export policy: The industry sought an extension of re-export days from 180 to 540 for imports under advance licenses.
Custom duty protection: The industry requested protection for value-added products to boost domestic production.
Pending state TUF dues: The Maharashtra State Textile Minister was urged to release long-pending dues.
The meeting was marked by open and interactive discussions, with all stakeholders sharing their viewpoints. The government officials assured support to address the industry's concerns and achieve the targeted growth.
Scoop’s first day at Olympia West was a triumph, redefining the fashion experience with its theme ‘Here Comes the Sun’. The event drew buying teams from top retailers such as Young Ideas, ALC, Applause, Lola, Sister, Moda Rosa, The Gate, Ediit, KitiCymru, and many Irish retailers including Macbees, Rococo, Elegance, Ohh by Gum, and Sheena’s Boutique, all eager to explore over 200 contemporary designer collections.
Visitors were greeted with a stunning vintage French Riviera floral boat display, evoking a 1930s seaside resort. Inside, iconic artwork by Paul O’Farrell, the renowned Costume Designer at the Royal Opera House, added a vibrant and captivating visual experience. The entrance and aisles were adorned with large bodice displays in colorful and golden tones, creating an enchanting atmosphere.
Rosie Wild from Moda Rosa praised the show, highlighting the excitement of discovering new designers, particularly French collections. Gillian Northcott from Gillie G’s in Petersfield found impressive new additions like CYC handbags and accessories. Longtime attendees Doranne Hickey and Aoife McBride from Macbees appreciated the inspiration and emerging designers.
Designer Tristan Vankelgom of Dream Catchers noted the positive reception and diverse store attendance. Returning designer Brenda Knight was charmed by the show’s beauty and impressive European designers.
Scoop Founder Karen Radley expressed delight at the enthusiastic response from UK and Irish independents, emphasizing the importance of showcasing new talent. Scoop continues until 16th July at Olympia West, featuring over 250 collections.
Day one of Source Fashion, Europe's leading responsible sourcing show, saw prominent brands like John Lewis, River Island, and Harrods converge at Olympia London. Running until July 16th, the event connects global sourcing communities with responsible manufacturers, showcasing innovations in sustainable fashion.
Designer Jeff Banks CBE, attending for the first time, emphasized the importance of understanding manufacturing capabilities, noting that knowing the source and quality of materials is crucial for his work. He highlighted that meeting manufacturers at the event simplifies his design process and aligns with his focus on sustainable practices and product longevity.
The event featured a dynamic sustainable catwalk show curated by stylist Rebekah Roy, highlighting four key trends: Nature’s Patina, Craft Punk, Emotive Nature, and Cartoon Culture. The show emphasized natural and alternative materials, blending earthy tones, innovative leather substitutes, and bold, expressive streetwear influenced by pop culture.
Headline designer Anna Pabissi presented a fully biodegradable eveningwear collection, utilizing antique fabrics and deadstock textiles. During her talk, Pabissi stressed aligning personal values with business practices in fashion.
Fashion futurist Geraldine Wharry explored future sustainable fashion infrastructures in her session, "Future Humanity Systems." She highlighted the need for systemic change and presented three macro trends: I Trust You Systems, which emphasizes transparency and regenerative models; Agency of Governing Species, which examines bioregionality and AI-enabled animal communication; and a wild card scenario featuring edible fashion packaging.
Suzanne Ellingham, Event Director, expressed pride in the event's impact, stating that their mission is to catalyze positive change. She noted that day one successfully forged new sourcing connections and addressed industry challenges, supporting the journey towards responsible production.
Source Fashion continues to be a pivotal platform for sustainable innovations in the fashion industry.
Sri Lanka’s regional cumulating agreement with Indonesia will grant the country a greater access and enhance competitiveness within the EU apparel market.
Approved by the European Union this year, the agreement will enable Indonesia supply approved textile fabrics to Sri Lanka, which will then be processed into apparel products for export to the EU. This will help boost the apparel industry in Sri Lanka, notes Yohan Lawrence, Spokesperson, Joint Apparel Association Forum (JAAF).
Under this agreement, Indonesia will export fabrics to Sri Lanka, which will then re-process these materials to manufacture apparel products for the EU market. The agreement permits cumulation of origin for certain materials from Indonesia—specifically, HS Chapters 51 to 55, 58, and 60. Sri Lanka can produce textile products under HS Chapters 61 and 63 using regional cumulation, provided both countries remain in the Generalized System of Preferences (GSP) scheme. This ensures Sri Lanka a steady supply of high-quality materials, which is crucial as the country faces stiff competition from Bangladesh and Vietnam.
Dhammika Fernando, Chairman, Free Trade Zone Manufacturers Association, adds, Indonesia serves as a key source market for fabric imports used in Sri Lankan garment production for the EU.
While Sri Lanka is already negotiating a Free Trade Agreement with Indonesia, this new regional cumulation deal specifically benefits trade with the EU under the GSP Plus scheme.
Kenya-based Modular Real Estate has commenced the development of a Sh69.4 million Export Processing Zone (EPZ) in the Athi River.
Scheduled for completion within eight months, the facility is one of the first green textile factories in the country. Once operational, it is expected to create jobs for 2,000 Kenyans. To be built using up-cycled containers, the sustainable warehouse will utilise solar energy and rainwater harvesting, reducing CO2 emissions by an estimated 18 tons annually. Spanning 6,000 sq m, the industrial space aims to address Kenya's demand for an additional 100,000 sq m of factory space.
The project has garnered significant investment, including Sh69.4 million from the United States Agency for International Development (USAID), a joint venture with Modular Real Estate, and a Sh170.3 million loan from Trade Catalyst Africa (TCA).
Richard Cheruiyot, Chairman, Export Processing Zone Authority, emphasises on the strategic location of the facility for exports. This industrial park hosts 97 enterprises with 26,760 employees as of December 2023, he states. Activities in the park will include textile and apparel production.
According to the latest data from the Economic Survey 2024 by Kenya National Bureau of Statistics, textiles production in Kenya rebounded from a 3.3 contraction in 2022 to 6.4 per cent in 2023. This growth was largely driven by a 34.4 per cent increase in woven fabric production. However, the production of wearing apparel declined by 1.3 per cent, attributed to a 5 per cent decrease in shirt production during the review period.
As per a report by the Kenya Apparel Insights for 2024, the country's apparel market generated revenue amounting to $5.95 billion (Sh763.2 billion). Industry experts forecast, the sector will grow at a CAGR of 3.51 per cent between 2024 and 2028 to reach a volume of 376.2 million pieces by 2028.
Kenya's apparel market is experiencing a surge in demand for sustainable and ethically produced clothing, driven by increasing consumer awareness of environmental and social responsibility. This trend underscores the importance of initiatives like the green EPZ in Athi River, positioning Kenya to capitalise on the growing market for sustainable textiles.
Minifibers has developed fiber packages using PureCycle resin made from post-consumer recycled (PCR) waste. Developed in partnership with PureCycle Technologies, these packages were further sent to Beverly Knits, a US textile manufacturerto be converted into textiles for a wide range of markets, including home goods, automotive applications, industrial solutions, and apparel products.
These initial product samples aim to assure brand owners that introducing PureCycle resin into their products will not compromise quality.
Dustin Olson CEO, PureCycle, remarks, Minifibers has demonstrated a keen interest in incorporating recycled content into their materials. Traditionally, fiber producers have faced challenges using recycled polypropylene due to varying contaminant levels causing thread breakage during manufacturing. This process eliminates these contaminants at the molecular level, resulting in stronger product quality.
The trial exemplifies the use of PureCycle resin in non-food grade applications. Fiber accounts for approximately 15 per cent of the global demand for virgin polypropylene, and until now, there hasn't been a scalable supply of recycled material to meet that demand. PureCycle resin can serve as a viable replacement for fossil-based polypropylene in many areas.
Ron Sytz, Owner, Beverly Knits, states, the performance of these fabrics is similar to those made with virgin polypropylene fiber, making them nearly plug-and-play for customers. PureCycle’s resin can be seamlessly integrated into textiles, transforming the fabric into a sustainable solution without any compromises. Customers can incorporate PureCycle’s technology into cutting-edge fabrics designed for their specific needs.
The Southern Gujarat Chamber of Commerce and Industry (SGCCI) will host the 'Yarn Expo 2024' from Aug 09-11, 2024, at the Surat International Exhibition and Convention Centre, Sarsana, Surat.
To be hosted in partnership with the Southern Gujarat Chamber Trade and Industries Development Centre, the expo will aim to accelerate the development of the textile industry in Surat besides providing industrialists with the latest technology in yarn production, says Vijay Mewawala, President, SGCCI.
Spanning approximately 116,000 sqft, Yarn Expo 2024 will feature over 80 exhibitors from various cities, including Ahmedabad, Bharuch, Valsad, Vadodara, Silvassa, Mumbai, Bangalore, Chennai, Coimbatore, Erode, Salem, Namakkal, Hooghly, and Kashipur.
Nikhil Madrasi, Vice President, SGCCI, highlights, bringing together yarn manufacturers from across India, this sixth edition of Yarn Expo will showcase a wide range of yarns, including polyester, nylon, viscose, cotton, cationic yarns, and specialty varieties such as antibacterial yarns, imitation silk yarns, granite yarns, and recycled yarns.
The show will be attended by genuine buyers and visitors from numerous states and cities, including Erode, Ichalkaranji, Tirupur, Tamil Nadu, Coimbatore, Haryana, Hyderabad, Panipat, Varanasi, Warangal, Ludhiana, Indore, Amravati, and Bengaluru, notes Ramesh Vaghasia, Immediate Past President of SGCCI.
NiravMandlewala, Honorary Secretary of SGCCI, and MrunalShukla, Honorary Treasurer of SGCCI, add, international buyers from countries like Peru, Thailand, Turkey, Canada, Australia, the US, Germany, Russia, Portugal, Spain, Brazil, UK, Indonesia, Sri Lanka, and the Czech Republic will also attend the show.
The show will also note the presence of weavers, knitters, industry leaders, and entrepreneurs from across the countryalongwith several representatives from South Gujarat's business industry, states BijalJariwala, Chairman -All Exhibitions, SGCCI. Last year, the expo attracted over 20,000 buyers, and this year, more than 25,000 visitors are expected.
GirdhargopalMundra, Chairman, Yarn Expo 2024, emphasises, the exhibition will feature all varieties of yarns, including 100 per cent polyester textured yarn, dope dyed polyester yarn, recycled polyester yarn, slow polyester yarn, blend yarn, cationic yarns, air textured yarns, slub yarns, cotton look polyester yarns, cotton felt polyester yarns, fancy polyester yarns, inherent fire-retardant yarns, and inherent antibacterial yarns.
The Taliban-led Afghan government struck a deal to export 10,000 tons of cotton thread to China, a sign of potential economic progress for the war-torn nation. The Ministry of Commerce facilitated the agreement between Afghan Golden Cotton and Shanghai Khuban Textile, marking a bright spot during National Export Day celebrations in Kabul.
This development comes amidst the Taliban's efforts to woo investors. They've consistently urged local and foreign businesses to invest in Afghanistan. However, the path to economic revival remains arduous. Banking restrictions, high tariffs, and heavy taxes create significant hurdles for the private sector.
Further complicating matters, the Taliban recently appointed Noor Ahmad Agha, a sanctioned individual, as the governor of Afghanistan's Central Bank. This decision raises concerns within the international community, potentially hindering efforts to unlock financial aid crucial for Afghanistan's economic recovery.
While the cotton deal offers a glimmer of hope, Afghanistan's economic future hinges on the Taliban's ability to address investor anxieties and establish a more transparent and accountable business environment.
PureCycle Technologies, in partnership with MiniFibers and Beverly Knits, has achieved a major milestone by producing high-quality textile samples using PureCycle resin derived from post-consumer recycled (PCR) waste.
MiniFibers, a leader in specialty fibers, created fiber packages with PureCycle resin, which were then used by Beverly Knits, a US textile manufacturer. These samples demonstrate that PureCycle resin can match the performance of virgin polypropylene, addressing concerns over quality and contamination that have historically plagued recycled fibers.
PureCycle CEO Dustin Olson highlighted the significance of this trial, noting the challenge of incorporating recycled polypropylene due to contamination issues. PureCycle’s advanced process removes these contaminants at the molecular level, ensuring stronger, high-quality fibers. Olson emphasized that this success opens up opportunities for PureCycle resin in the fiber industry, which consumes about 15 per cent of global virgin polypropylene demand.
Beverly Knits owner Ron Sytz praised the resin's performance, noting it offers a sustainable alternative without compromising quality. Both companies are eager to explore further applications and integrate this technology into various textile markets.
