FW
Textile technology firm Jeanologia has developed new uses for its e-soft resource saving nano-bubble technology, including the ability to apply 3D resins to denim, water repellent coatings, and wrinkle-free finishes to a wider range of clothing.
At the Denim by Premiere Vision, which will be held in Barcelona for the first time, Jeanologia will be showing new applications of its e-soft finishing technology that uses nano-bubbles to apply chemical finishes to textiles rather than water. Previously used for softening denim fabrics garments with minimal water usage and virtually no residues, this technology can now be applied to 3D resins, water repellent coatings, and easy care wrinkle-free fabric treatments.
Instead of using traditional continuous finishing processes, garment dipping or hand sprays, e-soft works by dissolving the chemical-based finish in a small amount of water and agitating the mixture into a fine mist of microscopic, chemical-laden bubbles. This impregnated fine mist is then fed into a rotating tumbler machine where the textile finish is exhausted on to the surface of the garment or fabric. It can be retrofitted onto existing equipment.
The application of softeners with e-soft provides the greatest savings in terms of electricity, water and chemicals, which are said to be 79 per cent, 98 per cent and 80 per cent respectively. The company also has plans to extend this technology to anti-microbial, microencapsulation, enzyme washes and garment dyeing in future.
www.jeanologia.com/
Indirect sourcing, a non-transparent practice of sub-contracting, is the root cause of safety risks and poor working conditions in the readymade garment sector of Bangladesh. Though indirect sourcing has helped boost the garment industry and Bangladesh's economy, however, global brands doing business in the country need to assess the overall condition of factories and address risks.
Indirect sourcing has become an essential feature of the garment sector in Bangladesh as a means of increasing margins and boosting production while keeping costs low. In the absence of regulation by the government, the prevalence of indirect sourcing has resulted in a supply chain driven by the pursuit of lowest nominal costs.
That means that factories receiving subcontracts are operating on razor-thin margins that leave concerns about safety and workers' rights perpetually unaddressed. However, subcontracting is a reality in the country’s apparel sector as many local readymade garment manufacturing units are not capable enough to do business directly with foreign buyers.
Bangladesh’s apparel makers say sub-contracting is not the sole risk factor and there are a few more. They say factories especially small and medium ones are not adequately compliant so they have no option but to depend on the indirect sourcing business.
Exports of textile products from Pakistan witnessed positive growth at 7.99 per cent in the first nine months of the current fiscal compared to the corresponding period last year. Textile products that witnessed a positive trade growth include: raw cotton exports which increased by 43.48 per cent. Exports of cotton cloth increased by 6.99 per cent while exports of yarn (other than cotton yarn) increased by 10.03 per cent. Exports of bed wear showed an increase of 21.39 per cent. Exports of readymade garments increased by 9.36 per cent.
On a year-on-year basis, textile exports increased by 6.39 per cent in March 2014 when compared to March 2013. On a month-on-month basis, textile exports witnessed a positive growth of 9.19 per cent in March 2014 when compared to the exports in February 2013.
Other textile products that witnessed an increase in trade include made up articles (excluding towels and bed wear), exports of which increased by 17.94 per cent. Textile products that witnessed negative growth in trade during the period include: cotton yarn, exports of which decreased by 5.93 per cent. Exports of cotton carded or combed decreased by 42.53 per cent, exports of towels decreased by 2.55 per cent while exports of tents, canvas and tarpaulin decreased by 23.84 per cent.
This year Cotton Council International (CCI) for the first time promoted the Cotton Leads program at the Heimtextil trade show in Frankfurt, Germany. Cotton Leads is a program that is committed to responsible cotton production. It stresses on sustainability, best practices and traceability in the supply chain. The program is initiated by Australia and the United States. It offers manufacturers, brands and retailers a reliable cotton supply chain solution and confidence that their raw material is responsibly produced and identified.
The Cotton USA booth attracted visitors from all levels of the cotton and home textiles industry and 10 companies from Europe and Turkey signed on to the Cotton Leads program during the show. Heimtextil attracts retail buyers as well as the first levels of the cotton supply chain from merchants to mills. The Cotton USA booth at Heimtextil was an important opportunity for CCI to present the global Cotton USA marketing and licensing program to all segments of the cotton supply chain based on the fact that many key companies in the cotton home textile industry are vertically integrated.
Heimtextil is the world’s leading trade show for home textiles. Cotton Council International staff and representatives from the US, Europe and Turkey attended Heimtextil exhibition during January 8 to 11, 2014.
www.heimtextil.messefrankfurt.com/
The overall textiles and apparel imports by the US in 2013, stood at $105 billion, after crossing the $100 billion dollars mark in 2011. In 2013, imports increased by 3.8 per cent in value terms over 2011, hinting at a revival in consumer sentiments that were under pressure following the economic slowdown.
As per a study by Wazir Advisors, overall imports by the US in 2013 stood at $81 billion, 4 per cent more than 2012. In volume terms, imports increased 4.6 per cent last year, more than value growth, which means average unit price (at consolidated level) has decreased from 2012. An analysis of value and volume change in US imports over last decade indicate barring 2006, 2007, 2008 and 2011, the average prices at consolidated level has decreased over the previous year. A long-term analysis of average prices, shows that in last two decades prices have come down tremendously.
Share of exporting countries and goods
China is the leading supplier to the US with 40 per cent share whereas Vietnam emerged as a distant second with 8 per cent share. However, Vietnam is the fastest growing supplier nation with trade registering 15 per cent growth in US dollars over the previous year.
Apparel was the largest imported category by with a share of 76 per cent and fabrics,
yarns and others (including home textiles) had a share of 6 per cent, 1 per cent and 17 per cent respectively. Among the top five apparel exporters to US, supplies from Vietnam and Bangladesh have grown in double digits over 2012, whereas Indonesia and Mexico were flat. China with maximum share of 37 per cent grew by 2 per cent.
Nearly 75 per cent of US apparel imports (in value terms) are concentrated in top 10 categories that registered positive growth except, women’s/girls’ suits or dresses category, which was down by 0.4 per cent. Knitted category with a share of 53 per cent in value terms is bigger than woven apparel category and witnessed faster growth in 2013.
China and Vietnam are the top suppliers for both cotton and MMF based garments. However, for cotton garments Bangladesh is the third largest supplier whereas for MMF garments Indonesia holds the 3rd rank.
India’s export to the US
Indian textiles and apparel exports to US were $6.3 billion in 2013, up 7 per cent from 2012. Apparel was the largest category with a share of 51 per cent followed by others (including home textiles) which had a share of 43 per cent. Though maximum growth in 2013 was registered by fabric segment the trade value is small to make any sizeable impact.
Cotton based apparels is the largest sub-segment in Indian apparel exports to US with a value of $2.3 billion dollars in 2013, which suffered de-growth by 3 per cent over 2012. Manmade fiber based apparel exports is the second largest sub-segment with a value of $0.7 billion in 2013 grew at a much higher rate of 15 per cent over 2012.
Nearly 80 per cent of Indian apparel exports to the US (value terms) are in top 10 apparel categories. In 2013, the category of knitted men’s/boy’s underwear registered an exceptionally high growth rate. In addition, knitted jerseys and women’s shirts were the two categories with double digit growth rates. However, India’s largest exported apparel category to US – women’s woven suits, dresses, and skirts along with knitted T-shirts and track suits suffered de-growth. On an overall basis the apparel export from India to US grew by 6 per cent to reach 3.2 billion dollars.
Baltic Fashion & Textile Riga 2014 ended on April 6. This international textile industry fair is a major fashion and textile industry event in the Baltic region. There were 120 participants from 11 countries including Latvia, Lithuania, Estonia, Spain, Italy, Germany, France, Russia, Poland, Ukraine and India. They presented the latest casual wear and work clothes, lingerie and knitwear collections, a vast variety of fabrics, sewing accessories and state-of-the-art production equipment. The three day exhibition was attended by 9,721 visitors from 26 countries.
Latvian manufacturers offered original textile products of high quality fabrics like cotton, linen, silk and woolen clothes for different occasions, fine lacy lingerie, exquisitely patterned home textiles and a diversified range of auxiliary materials.
Latvian scientists and manufacturers presented the latest innovations. Visitors could learn about electronic elements integrated into textiles and clothing, amber thread production technology and the use of amber composite threads in a variety of textile products, hemp processing and hemp fibers in various home textile products – towels, blankets, curtains, tablecloths and napkins. Touch sensitive clothing with integrated light-emitting diodes attracted the greatest interest.
The event offered B2B matchmaking to enable textile, fashion and design professionals to develop interdisciplinary cooperation and develop new projects. The next Baltic Fashion & Textile Riga 2015 will take place April 16 to 18, 2015.
www.balticfashiontextile.com/
The All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (Aptma) has launched a media campaign against the government’s policies, particularly on the exchange rate. The central point of the campaign is a veiled threat of shutting down industries in Punjab – the stronghold of the ruling party.
In order to avoid unrest in Punjab during the peak summer season, Prime Minister Nawaz Sharif has constituted a cabinet panel to resolve issues. Central and southern Punjab are facing more than 12-hour-a-day load shedding after a sudden surge in demand due to rising temperatures. This has once again started affecting industries in Punjab.
Aptma feels the revaluation of the rupee has caused losses and that the energy crisis has also forced it to lay off employees. The appreciation of the currency has made the country’s exports uncompetitive.
Aptma is the premier national trade association of the textile spinning, weaving, and composite mills representing the organized sector in Pakistan. It represents 396 textile mills out of which 315 are spinning, 44 weaving and 37 composite units. These spinning mills have production facilities of texturing, mercerizing and dyeing of yarns; weaving mills have a sizeable number of air-jet looms, and the composite mills have manufacturing facilities from spinning to finished textile products under one roof.
www.aptma.org.pk/
The All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (Aptma) has launched a media campaign against the government’s policies, particularly on the exchange rate. The central point of the campaign is a veiled threat of shutting down industries in Punjab – the stronghold of the ruling party.
In order to avoid unrest in Punjab during the peak summer season, Prime Minister Nawaz Sharif has constituted a cabinet panel to resolve issues. Central and southern Punjab are facing more than 12-hour-a-day load shedding after a sudden surge in demand due to rising temperatures. This has once again started affecting industries in Punjab.
Aptma feels the revaluation of the rupee has caused losses and that the energy crisis has also forced it to lay off employees. The appreciation of the currency has made the country’s exports uncompetitive.
Aptma is the premier national trade association of the textile spinning, weaving, and composite mills representing the organized sector in Pakistan. It represents 396 textile mills out of which 315 are spinning, 44 weaving and 37 composite units. These spinning mills have production facilities of texturing, mercerizing and dyeing of yarns; weaving mills have a sizeable number of air-jet looms, and the composite mills have manufacturing facilities from spinning to finished textile products under one roof.
www.aptma.org.pk/
The Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) says global buyers and brands are not offering higher prices for products even though the BGMEA has taken wage hikes and other initiatives to improve workplace safety and compliance. It’s been over a year since the Rana Plaza collapse that killed 1,135 people, mostly garment workers.
The BGMEA says global buyers put pressure on the government to increase wages but don't increase prices of products. Rather they are canceling orders from factories located at shared or rented buildings. During the last one year, 150 trade unions have been registered while the number was only 38 in eight years. BGMEA says buyers are not taking ongoing developments and initiatives into consideration. It also requested global brands and buyers to create a fund for Rana Plaza victims and their families instead of giving only verbal assurances.
Terming buyers' pulling out orders from shared buildings as inhuman, BGMEA says about 40 per cent factories are located in shared or rented buildings employing about 1.5 million workers. It requested buyers to consider the issue and not withdraw orders from those factories. The three initiatives, the Accord, the Alliance and the government and ILO-led factory assessment, have so far inspected 700 factories.
www.bgmea.com.bd/
Chinese investment in Vietnam rose to $2.3 billion in 2013, up sharply from the $345 million in 2012, says the Ministry of Planning and Investment’s Foreign Investment Agency. Most of this investment is happening in the garment and textile as well as real estate sectors.
Recently the Nam Dinh Provincial People’s Committee approved an investment license of Chinese garment and textile giant Jiangsu Julun Textiles Group to construct a $68 million manufacturing facility on an 80,000 sq. mt. area at Bao Minh Industrial Park in Vietnam. When fully operational, the factory specialising in yarn, will have a total annual production capacity of 9.816 tonns, suitable for the production of textiles, sewing, crocheting, knitting and weaving.
In another development, Hong Kong’s Luenthai company, the Vietnam National Textile and Garment Group (Vinatex) and China’s Sanshui Jialida Textile Company held a working session with the leaders of Nam Dinh province, holding preliminary discussions on the constructing a multi-million garment manufacturing facility in the industrial park (IP).
Spread over an area of 1,500 hectares in Nghia Hung district, Nam Dinh province, the IP project has a projected initial investment of $400 million and a target market of developing fields like weaving, dyeing, leather, garments and textiles as well as support industries for Vietnam’s garment and textile sector. Pending final approval, the project is expected to begin construction in late 2014.
In recent times, the garment and textile sector of Vietnam has attracted investments from China, Taiwan, and Hong Kong. Notably, Chinese Texhong Textile Group has invested in two factories in the southern province of Dong Nai with capacity of 500,000 spins of yarns and generated 4,500 jobs in the locality. Subsequently, the group expanded its investment in Vietnam with the addition of a $300 million facility in Quang Ninh province.
Companies in China are said to be increasing their investments in Vietnam sighting signing of the Trans-Pacific Partnership (TPP) that will allow lucrative additional market access. Specifically the TPP rule of origin (yarn forward) which requires businesses to use raw materials, supplies and components in the manufacturing process that originate in the same country the manufacturing facilities are located in, would be greatly in favour of the companies setting up their manufacturing base in Vietnam.
