H&M is nowhere near ensuring a living wage for workers who make H&M clothes. Hundreds of thousands of workers sewing H&M clothes cannot feed their families, send their children to school, see a doctor when they need one, or cover other basic needs.

The continued failure by H&M to ensure a living wage exposes women garment workers to risks of violence in numerous ways. Workers in parts of H&M’s vast supply chain have been speaking up about their working conditions and expressing solidarity. Workers in Bulgaria earn less than one-tenth of an estimated living wage.

A wave of actions against poverty wages has hit H&M’s largest markets and production locations. There have been street actions and online campaigning in Austria, Belgium, Cambodia, Croatia, India, Indonesia, Italy, Germany, Hong Kong, the Netherlands, Romania, Spain, Sri Lanka, Switzerland, the United Kingdom, USA, and Turkey, among others.

In Italy, actions have included a flash mob turning up in front of an H&M store in Milan during prime shopping time. In Germany, activists turned up in front of an H&M with a couch, blankets and other props to demonstrate that they are sitting around and waiting for H&M to fulfil the living wage promise.

AlgiKnit, a biomaterials company which is developing yarn spun from kelp, has received a$2.2 million series seed funds from Horizons Ventures. The funding aims to help the start-up in its manufacturing and commercialisation of bio-derived yarn.

AlgiKnit spins yarn from a combination of algae and plant biopolymers, primarily including kelp, one of the fastest growing organisms on earth. This seaweed absorbs the greenhouse gas carbon dioxide at a rate up to five times faster than land-based plants and improves marine habitats. By using a non-toxic wet-spinning process, the company aims to transform these biopolymers into a strong, hypoallergenic and compostable yarn. In theory, when products made from AlgiKnit’s yarn are worn out, they can be bio-recycled and reclaimed for the next generation of products.

Horizons Ventures, the private investment arm of Li Ka-shing, is a leading investor in some of the world’s most innovative companies and disruptive technologies including Facebook, Waze, Spotify, Siri, Improbable and Impossible Foods.

Azerbaijan with its favorable climate and soil is an ideal place for development of the cotton industry. The state aims to increase its cotton production up to 500,000 ton by 2022 from the current 260,000 ton. Azerbaijan is making every effort to develop the cotton industry and make it more productive. It has planted 132,000 hectare of cotton this year, which will be increased to 100,000 hectare.

The country, till date, has harvested 215, 000 tons of cotton. This year the average yield is 16 cent per hectare, which exceeds last year’s figure. Next year it plans to increase the yield. Its cotton production is mostly concentrated in Saatli, Bilasuvar, Barda, Aghjabadi and Sabirabad.

Azerbaijan, in early 2017, approved the State Program for 2017-2022 with an aim of strengthening measures directed at developing this sphere. The purpose of the State Program is to develop cotton growing, increase export potential in this sphere, ensure employment of the rural population and increase the production.

Bangladesh garment suppliers are being driven down pricewise by apparel brands and retailers. While unit price is going down by the season, prices of all materials and operation costs are going up.

Buyers raise the question of sustainability but don’t necessarily pay more for sustainably produced products. Some small brands do but not always the bigger ones. In a big company the ones dealing with CSR issues are not the ones placing orders. The ones placing orders don’t really care much as it is not their responsibility. So in larger brands, the left arm does not always know what the right arm is doing. So there is talk of sustainability but not about implementation costs.

The relationship between suppliers and brands is essentially unequal. If ever there were a buyers’ market, this is it. So manufacturer may be asked to change the styling, add trims or change the wash method of a garment but the buying team never wants to pay for these changes. Bangladesh is the world’s second largest garment exporter. If the country is to escape the race to the bottom it needs more specialisation, more added value, and more innovation which will lead to greater bargaining power with brands.

China provides huge subsidies to the cotton sector. The country supports cotton production by controlling cotton import volumes and values and by applying border protection measures based on quotas and sliding scale duties, with an effective tariff of 40 per cent on cotton imported without a quota.

Total direct subsidy payments provided to cotton producers in China, in addition to border protection support, were $2.4 billion in 2018 up from $2 billion in 2017. The increase is attributed to higher production during 2018, while the difference between the target and the market price remained almost unchanged. In addition to direct subsidies, border protection benefits are enjoyed by producers in China.

China also maintains a strategic reserve of cotton, serving as a national buffer stock. China releases cotton to the market from reserve through a system of auctions when there is a shortage, and replenishes the reserve in times of abundance, thus supporting prices. Since 2016, China restricted cotton imports by issuing only the tariff-rate-quota import quotas, with the objective of reducing government stocks. As a result of interventions and quotas, domestic cotton prices in China have exceeded international prices during the past three seasons.

In addition, growers are paid a subsidy for using high quality seeds, although small-holder farmers do not benefit significantly from this policy.

A textile and garment machinery exhibition (MTG) will be held in Myanmar, from December 6 to 9, 2018. This is Myanmar’s most comprehensive show for garment and textile manufacturing. On show will be clothing, textile, modern machinery such as embroidery machines, sewing machines, printing machines and flat knitting machines. The expo aims to build an efficient communication platform for the domestic market.

MTG 2018 will attract more than 130 top brands from 12 countries and regions: China, Czech Republic, Germany, Hong Kong, India, Japan, Malaysia, Myanmar, Singapore, Taiwan, Thailand and Vietnam.

Exhibiting brands like Tajima, Northphenix, Hooray and Richpeace will display latest embroidery machines. AMF, Ching Sung, Juki, Kingtex, Toboyo and Yinwei will showcase advanced sewing machines. Kuris and Saloon will demonstrate fabric inspection machines and cutting machines. Mimaki will exhibit printing machines and BOK will present a textile CAD system.

Taiwan Pavilion will feature brands like Kingtex, Saga, Dotec, Kenlen, Shan Tsae, Ching Sung, Triumph, Great Knives, Tso Ta and Huang Tayi. Smart Myanmar will host a series of seminar to enrich the product image of Made in Myanmar. Tajima, a leading brand of textile industry, will hold a seminar for sharing the latest machinery knowledge and technique.

Arvind has opened two manufacturing facilities in Gujarat. A third facility will come on over the next few weeks. These facilities will add a capacity of three million garments a month and generate additional revenues of Rs 1000 crores. They are aimed at strengthening Arvind’s position in the global textile and garment market as an integrated fiber to fashion provider and solutions provider to global retailers and brands. The facilities will also contribute to the company’s foray into performance and functional wear (active wear) and synthetics.

At present only 10 per cent of the fabrics Arvind produces are converted into garments. The aim is to convert 50 per cent of Arvind’s fabrics into garments over the next five years. Some 12,000 people are expected to be employed in these facilities. Arvind plans to invest Rs 500 crores a year for the next four or five years with an aim to double revenue from its textile business to Rs 12,000 crores. Gujarat has been at the forefront of the textile value chain. The state’s progressive textile policy has seen Gujarat become the leader in cotton production, spinning and fabric production. The state is poised to become a large garmenting hub.

Leading Japanese flat knitting machinery manufacturer Shima Seiki, showcased its latest innovative technologies at last month’s ITMA Asia + CITME 2018 in Shanghai, just as China’s domestic knitwear manufacturing industry prepares for digitalisation and automation.

Digitalisation and automation

Digitalisation and automation were key messages at ITMA Asia + CITME, which was held at the National Exhibition and Convention Centre (NECC) in Shanghai from 15-19 October 2018. Until fairly recently China was at the centre of the world’s knitwear exporting industry with its huge labour pool and low labour costs. Now with rising labour costs and labour shortages, things have slowed down a little and although China is still a very significant exporter of knitwear, it is smaller than it once was, with much production moving to Vietnam and Bangladesh.

The situation in China’s domestic manufacturing industry is quite different however, with consumers wielding real spending power with the country’s domestic fashion brands. Speaking to Knitting Industry in Shanghai, Mr Ikuto Umeda, Director of Sales Headquarters, the man responsible for sales of Shima Seiki machines in China, explained: “With rising living standards and booming demand, China’s domestic needs in terms of knitwear and other apparel cannot be met conventionally. Production needs to change, and China has to deal with it. China has to adopt Industry 4.0.”

Total Fashion System

Accordingly, Shima’s Total Fashion System took centre stage in Shanghai. The Wakayama headquartered company’s solution is a complete digital system which aims to maximise profits while achieving zero inventory loss, zero leftover stock, zero lost sales opportunity and most importantly zero waste through smart, speedy and sustainable production.

The automation part comes in the shape of the company’s WHOLEGARMENT knitting technology, a pioneering seam free knitting solution, which is now gaining real traction in the Chinese domestic market. Shima has been selling its flagship MACH2XS and MACH2S machines in significant numbers over the past three years, and a range of machines was on show in Shanghai, including a MACH2XS123 in gauge 15L and a MACH2S in 8 gauge.

Virtual sampling

Also starring in Shanghai was the company's SDS-ONE APEX3 3D design system which sits at the core of the Total Fashion System concept. Highly realistic simulation capability on APEX3 allows virtual sampling which minimises the impact the sample-making process has on manufacturing, both in terms of time and cost.

With Shima’s new manufacturing model, the production cycle can be shortened to such an extent, that on-demand production is possible avoiding the limitations of seasonal cycles. This allows the product planning stage to be extended to allow more accurate analysis of consumer demand.

“Recent consumer trends, such as increased online shopping activity have changed supply chain requirements in China, with growing interest in on-demand production both in terms of time-compression and mass-customisation,” explained Masaki Karasuno, Head of Corporate Communications at Shima Seiki.DS-ONE APEX3 3D design system. © Shima Seiki

“The combination of Shima Seiki's pioneering Wholegarment knitting technology that allows a garment to be produced in its entirety without the need for linking or sewing afterward, along with the SDS-ONE APEX3 3D design system yields revolutionary game-changing flexibility in the knit supply chain to support such trends.”

Maximising profit

Virtual samples can also be used at retail level to gauge consumer acceptance of upcoming products, data for which can be used for forecasting demand.

“Such feedback can be used to adjust production and optimise inventory in order to prevent leftover stock that would otherwise go to waste. If stock runs out mid-season, on-demand production capability of Wholegarment knitting can furthermore replenish inventory to prevent lost opportunity,” Mr Karasuno said.

“In such a way, the Total Fashion System maximises profit while achieving zero inventory loss, zero leftover stock, zero lost sales opportunity and most importantly zero waste through smart, speedy and sustainable production.”

Virtual yarns

Shima showcased two collaborative projects which involve the generation and development of virtual yarns using the SDS ONE APEX3 Design System – the first with Italian spinner Tollegno and the second with Hong Kong’s UPW.

Readers familiar with SDS ONE APEX3 will know of its capability in producing hyper-realistic digital simulations of knit structures – the software also allows users to scan lengths of yarn to use in knit simulations. UPW has made its entire collection available digitally on its website, which means that any designer or factory that uses the APEX3 is now able to download UPW shade cards directly into their design system and design with UPW yarns.

First PLM solution for knitwear production

As part of its Total Fashion System and to further support knit manufacturing in the 21st century, Shima has developed the world's first PLM (Product Lifecycle Management) system dedicated to flat knitting as a powerful implementation of IoT for realizing factory automation and this was in evidence in Shanghai.

With Shima KnitPLM, the entire manufacturing process of knitwear from planning to production can be visualized to support efforts in maximizing production efficiency.

“The fashion industry is undergoing rapid change in globalization and diversification, requiring even more variety, higher speeds and shorter cycles. In such an environment, in order to perceive consumer needs and realize sustainable growth, the capability to perform the process from marketing and product planning to production and sales, quickly and without waste, becomes very important,” Masaki Karasuno explained.

Shima KnitPLM applies the latest IoT technology to join Shima Seiki products with its customers' ERP and SCM core systems, offering high levels of traceability and higher productivity throughout all stages in the value chain. With seamless linking of data between systems, workflow can be automated and labour can be reduced while reducing workload associated with data input required for each work stage.

WHOLEGARMENT knitting

Shima exhibited a number of computerised flat knitting machines, the production tools of its Total Fashion System, each with distinct solutions for current and future needs of the Chinese and Asian markets. WHOLEGARMENT knitting technology was represented by three machines.

The flagship MACH2XS WHOLEGARMENT machine has 4 needlebeds and Shima’s original SlideNeedle, which makes it ideal for producing WHOLEGARMENT knitwear in all needles. MACH2XS also features patented spring-type sinkers, which permits high quality knitting of complex fabrics – for example flechage is now easier to knit, allowing more control over neck drop.

As the ‘MACH’ name suggests, speed and productivity are high, with MACH2XS achieving a maximum knitting speed of 1.6 metres per second. Additionally, the machine’s R2CARRIAGE system permits quick carriage returns for high efficiency per knitted course. Split Stitch technique also allows efficient production by eliminating empty courses and quality is assured with i-DSCS+DTC Digital Stitch Control System with Intelligence and Dynamic Tension Control. MACH2XS is designed to offer flexibility for knitting beautiful and sophisticated, high-quality WHOLEGARMENT products in all needles, with a wide variety of knit patterns at very high speed and efficiency. MACH2XS was on show in gauge 15L.

MACH2S

MACH2S is a versatile V-bed machine that supports production ranging from conventional shaped knitting in all needles to WHOLEGARMENT knitting using every other needle. At ITMA Asia + CITME, the MACH2S was shown in 8 gauge for coarse gauge applications.

Shima is currently experiencing a spike in demand for its flagship MACH2XS machine, especially in China, which is affecting delivery times. The company is now offering MACH2S as an alternative for Chinese and other manufacturers.

The third category of WHOLEGARMENT machine on display was the machine range known as ‘Mini’. The SWG061N2 compact or ‘Mini’ WHOLEGARMENT knitting machine is capable of producing a wide variety of knit accessories for fashion as well as technical textile applications. The SWG061N2 on show in Shanghai was producing novel 3D shoes in 15 gauge and an extensive range of samples was also exhibited.

Hybrid inlay fabrics

SVR series

For more conventional solutions, Shima’s SVR series is a very popular choice for shaped knitting. On show was the company’s SVR123SP computerised knitting machine in 14 gauge, featuring a special loop presser bed, capable of producing hybrid inlay fabrics that feature both knit and weave characteristics.

Demand for such unique fabrics are reported to be very high across a wide range of applications - from fashion to sportswear, innerwear, outerwear, uniforms and other functional clothing, as well as wearable technology and technical textiles.

The SVR123SP shown in Shanghai also featured Shima’s i-Plating option for expanded capability in inverse plating technique where complex jacquard-like patterns can be knitted in plain jersey stitch. Knitted accessory items were also shown to demonstrate the flexibility of the technology.

ITMA ASIA + CITME was deemed a very successful show for Shima, who reported high visitor numbers and strong sales at the event. The exhibition hosted over 1,600 exhibitors and attracted around 100,000 visitors.

Create Apparel, Australian-based sports apparel manufacturer, has seen its business growing ever since the company started using Kornit Storm II direct to garment (DTG) printer.

Elaborating on this, Mark Yammin, Owner, Create Apparel, said that the Israel-made DTG printer has increased the business of its custom t-shirts without taking away any extra time of their staff.

After purchasing Kornit Storm II from Kissel & Wolf – the Australian distributor – the printer was installed by Create Apparel in March 2018.

Along with Kornit Storm II, the company also installed Adelco industrial textile dryer, which helped the company not only take larger orders of custom t-shirts but also supply better quality products to customers on time.

Mark said that the company was always looking to invest on a printer, which would not require more than a single person to run it and they were happy with their decision to buy the DTG printer.

Kornit Storm II makes 35 to 45 custom t-shirts every hour and only one person does the printing at a high rate. Also, its feature of printing on fabrics other than cotton make it unique.

Tomas Lorenc, Sales Manager, digital equipment at Kissel and Wolf, said though the initial investment is huge, but the volume and the cost per print is less.

These must be interesting times for everyone who works at, or with, Ricoh.

Not too long ago if the name Ricoh was mentioned to a printing industry professional, the products that would probably come immediately to mind would have been the Pro-series of electrophotographic sheetfed digital presses – also sold under the Versafire brand by Heidelberg – and Ricoh’s range of high-speed continuous feed inkjet printers under the InfoPrint and Pro VC60000 marques.

In the decade that has passed since Ricoh entered the production printing market at Drupa 2008, a lot has changed. And, specifically, a lot more has changed since fresh chief executive Yoshinori Yamashita took the helm of the business 19 months ago.

During his first financial year (ending March 2018) Yamashita rolled out his ‘Ricoh Resurgent’ strategy aimed at getting the business in the right shape to deliver growth.

Now, the group has entered the ‘Ricoh Ignite’ phase that will run to the end of the 2020 financial year, to be followed by ‘Take Off’ through to 2023, which includes some pretty peppy sales and profitability targets.

Yamashita wants to grow Ricoh’s commercial and industrial printing ops (including its thermal media business) from 12% of sales to 20% of the group by March 2023, backed with a ¥100bn (£688m)investment in mergers and acquisitions specifically in this part of the business.

He expects overall group sales including office printing, consumer products and healthcare, to grow from ¥2.03bn to ¥2.3bn; and perhaps more importantly, has set an operating margin goal of 8%, a substantial increase on the 1.7% margin achieved in 2017.

Developments, and M&A activity, on the print side have certainly moved on apace this year (see boxout). At Fespa in May, Ricoh showcased the many and various different products that could now be printed using Ricoh technology. It showed its first flatbed wide-format printer and previewed a new latex roll-to-roll printer that was officially launched last month. Also on the booth was a direct-to-garment printer developed following its acquisition of AnaJet.

Since then, Ricoh has moved into other new areas, including printing onto large, three-dimensional objects with the acquisition of LAC Corporation. LAC’s systems can print directly onto cars, trucks, aircraft, tyres and glass bottles. The vast majority of sales are currently in Japan, and Ricoh insiders see a great opportunity to expand that to other markets using Ricoh’s network.

The same thing applies for colour measurement firm ColorGate, Ricoh’s most recent buy. It is strong in Europe and is now expected to grow in Asia Pacific and the US on the back of Ricoh’s presence there.

Ricoh is also making it easier for developers to use its inkjet know-how, with the recent Coloreel partnership a perfect example.

“In the industrial area the supply chain is very fragmented, and you need a myriad of relationships for heads, inks, drives, software and ink delivery,” explains head of commercial inkjet business Graham Kennedy. “The fewer relationships a developer can have, the more they can accelerate time to market. We’ve done that to great effect with Coloreel.”

Ricoh corporate vice-president Peter Williams believes the business is well-placed to capitalise on its expanding reach. “We’re probably in a unique position, because we can go to not only traditional manufacturers such as Heidelberg, where we’re partnering with someone who’s recognised as the best in their chosen analogue field and then work with them to leverage their brand and customer base. We can also do the same in wallpaper, or textiles,” he says.

Indeed, Yamashita has highlighted those two markets as examples of where Ricoh could grow its business while also fulfilling its corporate goal to benefit society by driving sustainability: reducing the huge amount of polluted waste water created by conventional textile printing methods; and using a digital print-on-demand model to dramatically reduce inventory waste in wallcoverings.

Ricoh has come a long way in 10 years, but over the coming five it intends to go further still.