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IndustriALL’s global campaign to STOP Precarious Work was joined by unions from across the world recently.
Workers and affiliates raised their voice to denounce the increase of precarious work and the bad working conditions of precarious workers in several countries such as India, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Mauritius, Serbia, Kenya, Ghana, Armenia, Belgium, Germany, USA, Canada, Japan, Indonesia, etc.
A human chain was organised by IndustriALL Bangladesh Council in Dhaka, Bangladesh, with more than 200 people protesting against precarious work. IndustriALL National Council Women’s Committee held a joint demonstration in Jakarta, Indonesia linking this action to their ongoing campaign on maternity protection. Women and youth members showed their commitment to decent work with flyers at the National Assemblies of both the Committee for promoting gender equality and the Youth committee in Japan. For the first time, to bring attention to precarious work IndustriALL affiliates in Kenya took action.
Mauritian affiliate of IndustriALL Global Union, CMCTEU, along witht eh national centre, CTSP organised a demonstration and a debate on Decent Work and labour legislation to mark the day.
Also, Rio Tinto network and the HolcimLafarge mobilised their members to denounce the rise of precarious work in their companies and the subsequent bad working conditions.
www.industriall-union.org
In 2014 German manufacturers of garment and leather technology observed a growth of 27 per cent in sales in real terms as compared to the previous year and a rise of 16 per cent in incoming orders.
An increase of 6.5 per cent in sales and 2.8 per cent in incoming orders has already been observed from January to August 2015. Flexibility, productivity, sustainability and high quality standards are the main reasons for this growth.
German sewing and garment technology machinery and equipment are used for making not only conventional garment products but protective clothing, functional wear, industrial filters, tarpaulins and sails, rucksacks, upholstered furniture, seats for cars and planes, and airbags.
Manufacturers of laundry and textile cleaning machinery, ironing technology and logistics supply machinery and equipment that represent are technologically and ecologically state of the art. Intelligent programs and fault diagnostics are part of German textile processing machinery and equipment and thus represent the ideal solution for any area of application.
As early as the development phase, new processing techniques and system solutions are integrated, guaranteeing the desired level of quality and safety. The product and service portfolio ranges from sewing technology, including needles, to ironing and finishing technology, IT and software as well as material handling and logistics.
“The 20 per cent growth in exhibitors demonstrates just how renowned Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics has become in the global industry, and how it is seen as the premier sourcing destination to be at each March and October. To ensure this remains the case going forward, we have added new elements and revamped some of our product zones at this edition,” said Wendy Wen, Senior General Manager of the fair organiser Messe Frankfurt (HK).
Chinese market continues to hold importance
The world economy has undergone many challenges this year, but the surge in exhibitors proves the industry still believes that there are opportunities in the Chinese and Asian markets.
Contrary to the notion that devaluation of yuan against the dollar may make an adverse impact on the global textile industry as a whole, according to Olaf Schmidt, Vice President, Textiles & Textile Technologies, Messe Frankfurt Exhibitions GmbH, there would be no impact on fabrics priced between mid to high level, as the difference really doesn’t impact final ready to wear prices, however impact would be much more in low cost fabrics.
Expressing his views on devaluating currencies and business dynamics, Michael Scherpe, President, Messe Frankfurt, France said, “It depends on which side of business you are in. For Europeans, it is beneficial since currency all these years was very strong. For those on the Chinese side of business, yes it will be little difficult but nothing very radical and challenging to balance the situation. More than these little changes, we have to see the political scenario that is causing a lot more uncertainty.”
A whole range of pavilions and product zones
The autumn editions of Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics; CHIC, the China International Fashion Fair; PH Value; and Yarn Expo are all simultaneously taking place showcasing high-quality domestic and international fabrics and accessories, yarn, garment and knitting manufacturers.
The international halls are divided into various pavilions and product zones to feature an extensive variety of products from around the globe. SalonEurope with France, Germany, Portugal, Turkey, the UK and Italy’s Milano Unica pavilions together with exhibitors from Bulgaria, Czech Republic, Slovenia, Spain and Switzerland are displaying high-end European-made fabrics and accessories. In addition, the FILO Pavilion is featuring Italian yarn and fibre companies within Milano Unica for the first time.
Premium Wool Zone is offering premium wool products from France, Italy and the UK. The exhibition area has increased in size by over 50 per cent this season. In Verve for Design, in addition to returning design studios from Hong Kong, Italy and the UK, designers from Japan, Switzerland and Russia are also taking part for the first time to display inspiring textile pattern designs. Asian country and region pavilions - India, Indonesia, Japan, Korea, Taiwan and Thailand enrich the diversity of products on offer. A large selection of innovative products will be introduced in the Birla Cellulose, DuPont, GNC, Hyosung, Invista, Lenzing, Korea Chemical Fibers Association (KCFA), Korea Textile Trade Association (KTTA) and SRTEPC group pavilions.
All About Sustainability area including an Education Zone also has ecoBoutique display area, Forum Space and the Oeko-Tex pavilion. The entire sustainable supply chain as well as seminars on sustainable solutions and initiatives can be found in this area. “Two trends are quite obvious; says Schmidt, adding, “first is sustainability, though it is new, but is increasingly gathering momentum and second is movement of fabrics towards high quality.”
And a debut product zone and revamped denim area cater to current market demands. Around 60 exhibitors are featuring in the Performance Lab area in response to the rapidly growing demand for high-performance products and production technology. Beyond Denim has not only expanded by 74 per cent but also appears with a new image. Denim exhibitors from the concurrent CHIC garment fair are taking part in this hall as it becomes a true one-stop sourcing platform covering the entire supply chain.
Categorised by product end-use, domestic exhibitors are located in six halls: tiled Casual wear, Lingerie and swimwear, Functional wear & sportswear, Shirting, Suiting and Ladieswear. The Accessories Hall is also housing over 660 accessories suppliers from China and overseas showcasing zippers, buttons, lace and embroidery, linings and interlinings, thread, appliques, sequins, beads, rhinestones and more.
Fringe programme - an integrated learning platform
To meet the industry’s needs, new elements have been added into this year’s fringe programme. A brand new Digital Printing Forum and a series of panel discussions will be held for the first time throughout the three-day fair, along with 31 informative seminars. Experts from different industry sectors will share a wide range of design and trend ideas, the latest market news as well as industry technologies.
In addition, the Autumn/Winter 2016/17 international trends envisioned by the Directions Trend Committee will be revealed in the Intertextile Directions Trend Forum. To further interpret the trends on display, Ornella Bignami, Creative Director of Elementi Moda and the Trend Forum designer, will demonstrate seasonal trend stories at three Trend Tour sessions during the first two days of the fair.
This is the first Autumn Edition of CHIC, the China International Fashion Fair. This new edition aims to strengthen the industry’s development by gathering both upstream and downstream resources. Over 700 brands from 23 countries and regions are featured in this comprehensive industry platform to offer the best quality products and innovative services. Based on the themes of ‘Age of Big Connection: Smart Manufacture’, a total of 18 fashion seminars and over 10 CHIC Shows will be held concurrently.
This year, the CHIC 2015 Autumn fair adopts the theme of ‘Smart & Fashionable’, using ‘Smart’ to fully integrate all steps and products of the industry supply chain. It interprets ‘Smart & Fashionable’ from three dimensions of manufacturing, products and retail, and integrates multiple parts of smart expo services, smart manufacturing, smart terminals and smart products, thus being fully prepared for the advent of the new age of technology reform. The ‘Smart & Fashionable’ theme will run through fashionable menswear and ladieswear, and specialised manufacturing and processing exhibition zones, while the two newly added theme zones of ‘Smart & Fashionable’ and ‘Smart Manufacturing’ will also present the new ‘Smart & Fashionable’ trend from different perspectives.
PH Value, with a total of nearly 300 exhibitors is focusing on offering finished knitwear products, which includes knitwear, underwear, home products, T-shirts, socks and more, which reflects the value chain, from ready-to-wear processing to brands, sales channels and consumers. Concurrently with CHIC, forum activities will also be held. The forums are on hot topics in the industry including ‘Internet + Dialogue Digital Retail Future’, ‘Fibre-Perfect integration between high performance and eco-friendliness’, ‘Application of polyaminoester short fibre in textile’, and ‘Forecast of knitwear popular trends’.
This year’s Yarn Expo has attracted a total of 258 overseas and domestic suppliers from 10 countries and regions. A strong line-up of fibre suppliers showcases the most cutting-edge high-performance products available today. Concurrently, Yarn Expo will showcase the ‘2015/16 China fibre popular trends’ as well as a variety of forums and lectures.
Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabricsis co-organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK), CCPIT; and the China Textile Information Centre.
www.intertextileapparel.com
Unifi, a producer of textured and other processed yarns, is known for its recycled fiber brand Repreve. Unifi is increasing the versatility of Repreve by combining more performance benefits with sustainability options for the benefit of consumers in Asia and Europe. This expansion into new global markets underscores the company’s dedication to remaining a leader in sustainable solutions and recycled products around the world.
Repreve with Augusta CL is designed to provide the natural look and feel of cotton and the superior performance of synthetics. Unifi also has a new, longer Repreve staple fiber that is ideal for wool blends. Repreve filament is blended with cationic-dyeable and disperse-dyeable polyester. Repreve with Reflexx is a high stretch fiber for improved fit, comfort and performance.
The company is focused on providing customers with eco-friendly products with the added performance benefits that consumers expect in products they wear and use every day. Its goal is to be a global resource for customers no matter where they choose to do business.
Unifi has entered into collaborations with Korteks, a licensed manufacturer of Repreve in Turkey, and Sun Chemical in Taiwan. These collaborations will greatly expand distribution channels for Repreve, helping to shorten lead times and broaden options for customers elsewhere in the world.
www.unifi.com
India is nowhere near China in the apparel trade. China is the world’s apparel superpower and controls 39 per cent of the global apparel trade. India, in contrast, exports one-tenth that of China and contributes 3.7 per cent to global apparel trade.
To enhance its share in the global apparel trade India needs to do some things. One is to build cost-effective large-scale fabric mills. A large fabric mill brings in efficiencies, lowers costs and improves quality. As quality and cost-effective fabric capacity increases, the demand for India’s fabric locally and internationally will go up, spurring further downstream investment. India practically has no good quality synthetic fabric mills. The world, on the other hand, is moving away from cotton and towards synthetics.
India’s manufacturing efficiencies are low compared to those of Chinese factories. Concepts such as lean manufacturing are not as prevalent in the garment-making world as they are in automotive manufacturing. Investment in people and systems is rare, and at the heart of this is the entrepreneur’s fear of adding and investing in labor without having the flexibility to downsize as required. This fear is driven by a system of archaic labor laws and unhealthy labor-politician nexuses that thrive in many manufacturing clusters. Consequently, large Indian garment factories employ 3,000 to 4,000 people, while Chinese factories employ over 10,000 at one place. So labor reforms are central to building higher quality garment factories.
According to industry insiders, western retailers' groups and apparel makers got locked in fresh row over post-inspection remediation issues, including incorporation of new conditions in the corrective action plan (CAP), duplication in follow up inspection and funding.
As per their allegations, although duplication had been avoided in the initial inspection, again it surfaced in the follow-up as both the groups were sending their experts to oversee the remediation work in line with the CAP in the units that produce apparel products for both signatories of Accord and Alliance.
The duplication issue had already been raised by the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) to the NTC (national tripartite committee) on Building and Fire Safety in readymade garment sector. Such activities were creating confusion among the buyers, slowing down the remediation work and hampering the regular production activities. A factory owner said that Accord was attaching 'unnecessary' new conditions with its follow-up inspections and adding those to the CAPs.
Md Shahidullah Azim, former Vice-President of Bangladesh BGMEA said that such an action sends a wrong message among buyers that the companies are not complying with the safety requirements within the set timeframe. However, he added that the situation was different as the Accord was adding additional requirements.
www.bgmea.com.bd
The fifth edition of the Future Fabrics Expo, inside Fashion SVP at London Olympia exhibition centre presented a curated showcase of globally sourced materials with reduced environmental impacts, which featured approximately 1500 qualities from over 80 mills, with sustainability information displayed for each mill and fabric.
Reinforced by key research and resources for sustainable textiles and fashion, including the Higg Index by the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC), which is the apparel, footwear and home textile industry’s foremost alliance for sustainability across the entire supply chain, the expo enabled visitors to join the dots of their supply chain.
Displaying leading innovations from around the world, summarised by highlighting their ‘Top 5’ innovations including leather alternatives made from waste pineapple leaf fibre, South American giant mushrooms, and natural rubber from the Amazon rainforest, along with biodegradable resin buttons, and organically tanned by-product exotic fish skin and ostrich leather, was the key focus of the expo.
The highest quality reduced impact denims made with diverse fibres including linen and Tencel, and responsibly made organic cotton in a range of knitted and woven qualities was showcased by two of their sponsors, Kassim Textiles and Elmer & Zweifel.
Also, the Taiwan Textile Federation participated for the first time and showcased the leading Taiwan Eco Textiles focussing on performance and technical textiles. The expo not only provides a platform for sustainable sourcing, but it’s a place for dynamic networking too, where one can share the best practice for the benefit of all.
Industrial Fabrics Association International (IFAI) is the world’s leading and longest-running specialty fabrics trade organisation since 1912. It has more than 1,500 member companies located in 55 countries. IFAI publishes market-specific magazines and organises global industry events.
Industrial Fabrics Association International announced the winners of the 2015 International Achievement Awards on October 8, 2015, at IFAI Expo 2015, the largest specialty fabrics trade show in the Americas, held this year in California. The awards aim to inspire companies around the globe to develop innovative products and processes, sharing their stories from concept to completion.
For more than six decades, the IFAI-sponsored competition has recognized excellence in design and innovation, highlighting craftsmanship in the specialty fabrics and technical textiles industry. The goal is to promote awareness of specialty fabrics used in thousands of products and applications in the growing130 billion dollar global fabrics marketplace.
IFAI received 292 entries from 11 countries that were submitted in 32 categories. Winners were selected based on complexity, design, workmanship, uniqueness and function. Judges included industry experts, editors, architects, educators and design professionals. IFAI is a not-for-profit trade association with more than 1500 member companies representing the international specialty fabrics and technical textiles marketplace.
www.ifai.com
China’s cotton imports for 2015/16 are forecast to fall for the fifth consecutive year. This brings forecast imports below 2008/09 levels, the last year before Chinaʼs aggressive reserve accumulation policy kicked in. India and Australia were the prime beneficiaries of rising imports through 2011/12.
India and Australia maintained robust market shares in 2013/14 as Chinaʼs imports began to fall, but saw their exports to China drop sharply in 2014/15. India’s exports fell due to quality and price considerations and Australia’s exports fell due to reduced supplies. Although total Chinese imports fell by almost half last year, US exports to China fell only marginally, leading to strong growth in the US market share.
It remains to be seen if the US market share can continue to increase enough to maintain US export volume to an even smaller market in 2015/16. Global import demand in 2015/16 is expected to decline as the fall in import demand by China more than offsets growing import demand in the rest of the world.
With 2015/16 beginning stocks outside of China at record levels, this suggests that exporting countries will need to compete aggressively in alternative markets such as Vietnam and Bangladesh in order to avoid further accumulation of stocks.
Textile and fashion products made in Europe are renowned for their creativity, innovation, quality and increasingly the environmental and social responsibility with which they are produced. Constant improvement in materials, production processes and supply chain management can further optimise the sustainability performance of the European textile and clothing industry.
However to achieve real step-changes in material circularity, resource-efficient manufacturing and smart on-demand business operations, radically new concepts, technologies and business models are required. So a conference has been organised by the European Technology Platform on October 28,2015 to deliberate over ‘Innovating for Sustainability in European Textiles and Clothing’, at Husa President Park Hotel in Brussels.
European thought leaders will speak on textile sustainability of the 21st century. Attendees will also get to discover industry innovators and technology disruptors working already on the sustainability solutions of tomorrow and learn about tools and solutions that EU initiatives bring to the industry across Europe.
They can also understand how digitisation and material circularity can enable entirely new market approaches and business models. Representatives from the entire European fibres, textile and clothing value chain, from research and technology organisations, industry federations, consulting and service companies as well as policy makers and the media are expected to attend the event. It will be followed by EU research and innovation funding seminar and project brokerage event on October 29, 2015 at the same venue.
www.euratex.eu
