FW
Zegna, the esteemed Italian company founded by Ermenegildo Zegna has unveiled the first chapter of Villa Zegna in Shanghai.
This project aims to provide consumers and industry insiders with an immersive experience reflecting the beauty and uniqueness of Oasi Zegna’s 100 sq km of natural territory in Piedmont, Northern Italy, where the company is based. The one-week event offers unprecedented insight into the vision of Ermenegildo Zegna, who, in the 1930s, planted over half a million trees and constructed a panoramic road connecting the two sides of the mountainous landscape near Biella, now home to Oasi Zegna.
This manifesto emphasises that Oasi Zegna, as a mindset, is expanding globally. Serving as the foundation of Zegna’s values, Oasi Zegna is a unique model of social and environmental awareness that has guided the brand for over a century. Inspired by this vision, ‘Villa Zegna’ was conceived as a global concept set to travel to various markets, sharing the brand’s story uniquely and adding new dimensions with each chapter.
Debuting in Shanghai, in the vibrant Middle Huaihai Road neighborhood, the installation recreates a real oasis of linen, inspired by the Spring/Summer 2024 collection show set. ‘Villa Zegna’ will be a one-week event, welcoming guests by invitation only, offering an experience that transcends mere product display.
Spanning three floors, the installation seamlessly integrates the founder’s vision, the brand’s history, and the fabrics that have made Zegna the leading menswear brand in the world. Guests embark on a journey through the linen oasis before arriving at the apparel collection floor. This natural sanctuary within the metropolis celebrates Oasi Lino, Zegna's fully traceable fiber and fabric, pivotal in the brand’s summer collections since 2024.
The top floor features a dedicated space transformed into an exclusive, relaxing private lounge. Here, select clients can enjoy a tailor-made shopping session with exclusive products unavailable in the usual retail network. This personalised approach offers the premium community an opportunity to immerse themselves in top luxury.
Following the inauguration of the first Zegna Caffè worldwide in Shanghai’s Taikoo Hui, a Zegna Caffè pop-up will be available for guests to enjoy a moment of relaxation.
The world’s largest manufacturer of home textile bed linens, Indo Count has entered into a licensing agreement with Iconix International Inc to manufacture Fieldcrest and Waverly branded products in the US and Canada. This strategic move enhances Indo Count’s presence in the US market following their successful acquisition of Wamsutta.
The new licensing agreement encompasses a broad range of product categories, including sheets, fashion and utility bedding, bath, and window treatments. This expansion significantly bolsters Indo Count’s brand portfolio, enabling them to better serve diverse consumer segments in the US and Canada.
This partnership aligns perfectly with the company’s commitment to deliver exceptional home textile products that meet the diverse needs of consumers, says Mohit Jain, Executive Vice Chairman, Indo Count.
Fieldcrest, established in 1893, has a long history of offering bedding and bath products originating from the textile mills of North Carolina. Waverly, founded in 1923 by F. Schumacher & Co., has been a leader in prints and patterns, becoming synonymous with personal curation in home fashion.
The broad demographic appeal of Fieldcrest and Waverly allows Indo Count to effectively target various consumer segments, enhancing market penetration. These partnerships also reinforce Indo Count’s commitment to expanding its value-added business, positioning the company for sustained growth in the global market.
The enriched brand portfolio from these agreements enables Indo Count to offer a wider variety of high-quality, stylish home textile products. This move also marks a significant step in their efforts to expand their B2C footprint in the US and Canada, making their products more accessible to North American consumers.
The fashion industry is in a whirlwind. Fast fashion, with its trendy clothes at rock-bottom prices, continues to dominate the market, projected to reach a staggering $291.1 billion by 2032 at a CAGR of 10.7 per cent. However, a growing shadow looms – the environmental cost of this relentless trend.
The market is segmented by various factors, with the adult segment leading the pack in terms of growth, followed by males as the dominant gender category. Independent retailers currently hold a significant share, but online stores and brand stores are catching up rapidly. Interestingly, Asia-Pacific is projected to be the fastest growing region in this market.
Enter Ultra-Fast Fashion: A new level of speed
Ultra-fast fashion takes the concept of fast fashion to an extreme. Brands like Shein churn out thousands of new designs per day, capitalizing on fleeting trends and impulsive buying habits. This model disrupts traditional retail by offering incredible speed and flexibility. However, the environmental impact is a major concern. The industry is accused of excessive water usage, chemical pollution, and textile waste.
In fact, fast fashion, with collections renewed a few times a year, already faces criticism for its environmental impact. But the new breed of ultra-fast fashion takes it to a whole new level. Shein for example, churns out thousands of new designs daily, fueled by a data-driven, ultra-flexible supply chain. This allows it to capitalize on fleeting trends and impulsive buying, but at a tremendous environmental cost.
Several factors fuel the growth of both fast fashion and ultra-fast fashion. Affordability is top most as fast fashion caters to a desire for trendy clothing without breaking the bank. This is particularly attractive to younger demographics like millennials and Gen Z. Novelty is another allure. The constant influx of new designs feeds the need for variety and keeps consumers engaged. Then online platforms and widespread retail chains make fast fashion readily available. Strategic partnerships with celebrities and influencers create a sense of urgency and exclusivity, driving impulsive purchases.
Some facts about global fast fashion are that the market is segmented by gender, with the male segment expected to maintain the lead. The market is divided into adults, teens, and kids, with adults currently driving the most growth. Independent retailers, online stores, and brand stores. Online stores and brand stores hold a combined market share of around 35 per cent. In terms of geography, North America currently holds the largest market share, but Asia-Pacific is expected to see the fastest growth in the coming years.
This model of excessive consumption exacerbates the environmental issues of fast fashion, leading to proposals like penalties. For example, the French government is considering penalties of up to 50 per cent of a garment's price to offset the environmental impact of ultra-fast fashion companies. France is also proposing bans on advertising by ultra-fast fashion companies.
Slow fashion’s new allure
In response to these concerns, a movement for slow fashion is gaining momentum. Slow fashion emphasizes ethical production, sustainable materials, and quality over quantity. This approach aims to reduce the environmental footprint of the fashion industry. No wonder, consumers are increasingly looking for slow fashion, which prioritizes ethical production, quality materials, and timeless styles.
Can fast fashion be sustainable?
The answer is a maybe. Some fast fashion companies are incorporating sustainable practices like:
Eco-friendly materials: Using recycled fabrics or organic cotton can lessen environmental impact.
Ethical labor: Ensuring fair wages and safe working conditions for garment workers.
Waste reduction: Initiatives to minimize fabric waste during production and encourage garment recycling.
However, the core business model of fast fashion – rapid production and low prices – inherently clashes with true sustainability.
The long-term outlook is a balancing act
The future of fashion lies in finding a balance. Consumers can make conscious choices, opting for sustainable brands and buying less, but more durable, clothing. Regulations like those proposed in France, aiming to penalize ultra-fast fashion brands, could incentivize a shift towards sustainability. Businesses need to innovate and adopt eco-friendly practices throughout their production cycles. Ultimately, a collaborative effort from consumers, policymakers, and the fashion industry is crucial to ensure a future where style meets sustainability.
rPET fibers, Patagonia, The North Face, Adidas, H&M, Mordor Intelligence
Recycled polyester fiber (rPET), reborn from plastic waste, is rapidly transforming the textile industry. This eco-friendly alternative to virgin polyester offers a glimpse into a more sustainable future for fashion and beyond.
The global rPET fiber market is booming. In 2021, it stood at $12.3 billion, and is expected to reach a value of $28.3 billion by 2031, with a healthy CAGR of 8.71 per cent. This growth is due to several factors viz rising consumer demand for sustainable products and growing environmental concerns.
Production and consumption trends
A look at the statistics reveals, polyester itself accounts for over half of the global fiber market, with a significant portion shifting towards recycled options. This trend is evident in rising rPET demand, with projections expecting a capture rate of at least 45 per cent by 2025 and a long-term vision of reaching 90 per cent by 2030.
Table: Global rPET fiber market
|
Category |
Value |
Source |
|
|
Market Size (2021) |
$12.3 billion |
Industry Report |
|
|
Projected Market Size (2031) |
$28.3 Billion |
Industry Report |
|
|
CAGR (2021-2031) |
8.71% |
Industry Report |
|
|
Polyester Share of Global Fiber Market |
Over 50% |
Industry Report |
|
|
Projected rPET Capture Rate (2025) |
At least 45% |
Industry Report |
|
|
Long-Term rPET Capture Vision (2030) |
90% |
Industry Report |
Asia Pacific dominates the rPET fiber production landscape, with China being a major player. Brands like Patagonia and The North Face, with a significant presence in Asia, are driving the demand for rPET in the region. However, the story on the consumption side differs. Europe and North America are currently leading the charge in rPET fiber usage, driven by strong consumer awareness and government regulations promoting sustainability. Brands like Adidas and H&M, headquartered in Europe, have pledged to increase their use of rPET in their products.
Table: rPET Fiber Production and Consumption
|
Region |
Production Leader |
Consumption Leader |
Reason for Consumption Lead |
|
Asia Pacific |
China |
Europe & North America |
Strong consumer awareness and government regulations |
|
Examples (Brands) |
Adidas, H&M |
European Headquarters |
While rPET fiber production is ramping up, it still lags behind consumption. Data suggests that in 2022, only around 14 per cent of the global fashion industry's polyester demand was met by recycled fibers as per Mordor Intelligence. This gap presents a tremendous opportunity for increased production and infrastructure development. "Recycled polyester fiber is a game-changer for the textile industry. It allows us to create high-quality products while minimizing our environmental footprint," explains Stella McCartney, renowned fashion designer known for her sustainable practices.
Several brands are taking concrete steps to integrate rPET into their products. Patagonia, a renowned outdoor apparel company, has pledged to eliminate virgin polyester by 2025, relying heavily on rPET for its clothing lines. Similarly, Adidas, a sportswear giant, aims to use recycled polyester in all its products by 2024. These examples showcase the industry's growing commitment to sustainability. “Recycled polyester is a game-changer for the textile industry. It allows us to create high-performance products while minimizing our environmental impact," explains Yvon Chouinard, Founder of Patagonia.
Despite the positive outlook, the rPET market faces hurdles. Collection and sorting of plastic waste for recycling remain inefficient, especially in developing countries. Additionally, scaling up production of high-quality rPET fibers to meet rising demand requires technological advancements. To overcome these obstacles, strategic initiatives are underway. Investments in improved waste management infrastructure and technological advancements in recycling processes are crucial. Furthermore, promoting a ‘circular economy’ where used textiles are recycled back into new fibers is another key solution.
Indeed, rPET fiber market is promising, driven by environmental concerns and consumer preferences. While challenges exist, innovative solutions and industry collaboration are paving the way for a more sustainable future. As production capacities increase, costs decrease, and infrastructure improves, rPET has the potential to revolutionize the textile industry, leaving a smaller footprint on our planet.
At the Global Fashion Summit, RE&UP introduced a recycling ecosystem poised to revolutionize the textile industry. Building on Sanko's century-old textile heritage, RE&UP has developed a patented technology capable of separating polycotton blends into pure cotton and polyester, making significant strides in sustainable fashion.
This innovative process combines advanced thermochemical, thermomechanical, and mechanical technologies, allowing it to recycle various feedstocks and expand accessible waste streams.
The resulting Next-Gen Cotton and Next-Gen Polyester match the performance of virgin materials, boasting robust fiber length and full decolorization while cutting water usage and carbon dioxide emissions by approximately 85 per cent.
RE&UP's technology is ready for immediate application in yarns, fabrics, and garments, operating from its facilities in Turkiye, with plans to expand across Europe and Asia. The company aims to recycle over 200,000 tons of textile waste annually by 2025 and scale up to over one million tons globally by 2030.
RE&UP is committed to promoting a more responsible and technologically advanced future for textiles and fashion, according to Chairman Fatih Konukoglu.
At the summit, RE&UP will participate in discussions on future fibers and global collaboration, emphasizing their commitment to driving sustainable change in the fashion industry.
At the Global Fashion Summit, RE&UP introduced a recycling ecosystem poised to revolutionize the textile industry. Building on Sanko's century-old textile heritage, RE&UP has developed a patented technology capable of separating polycotton blends into pure cotton and polyester, making significant strides in sustainable fashion.
This innovative process combines advanced thermochemical, thermomechanical, and mechanical technologies, allowing it to recycle various feedstocks and expand accessible waste streams.
The resulting Next-Gen Cotton and Next-Gen Polyester match the performance of virgin materials, boasting robust fiber length and full decolorization while cutting water usage and carbon dioxide emissions by approximately 85 per cent.
RE&UP's technology is ready for immediate application in yarns, fabrics, and garments, operating from its facilities in Turkiye, with plans to expand across Europe and Asia. The company aims to recycle over 200,000 tons of textile waste annually by 2025 and scale up to over one million tons globally by 2030.
RE&UP is committed to promoting a more responsible and technologically advanced future for textiles and fashion, according to Chairman Fatih Konukoglu.
At the summit, RE&UP will participate in discussions on future fibers and global collaboration, emphasizing their commitment to driving sustainable change in the fashion industry.
Recently reopened, one of Japan's largest stores, Diesel Shibuya has unveiled a new retail concept under the creative direction of Glenn Martens.
Spanning the basement and the first floor, the redesigned store features striking graphic applications of Diesel red and industrial metal billboards.
Inspired by vintage Diesel advertisements reminiscent of those lining iconic American highways like Route 66, the store's decorative anchor sets a nostalgic tone. The walls, covered in riveted raw steel panels, evoke the raw spirit of the road and are complemented by artisanal, handmade resin posters adorning the walls and floors.
The store showcases the latest Diesel collections and exclusive items, including a special denim capsule collection and silver jewelry chokers. Dedicated to Diesel's core denim collection, the Redwall, stands out with its all-red lacquered walls contrasting against the bold monochrome interior.
The store houses the 'Upcycle Lab' on the B1 floor which stocks Diesel's second-hand clothes and other unused inventory. The store also offers quick fix services such as denim repair and hemming, and provides a denim repair and upcycling service for members.
Enhancing the retail experience, Renzo Rosso, Founder, Diesel has opened his restaurant, Cucina Diesel Farm within the store. Originally located in Marostica, northeastern Italy, this is the only Diesel store featuring the restaurant, which serves traditional Veneto regional cuisine and wines produced at Diesel Farm, a bio-diverse property Rosso has owned and protected for 30 years.
Furthermore, the Diesel Art Gallery, a renowned center for contemporary art since its inception in 2010, continues to showcase emerging artists. The first exhibition after the renovation features the works of Nanao Mitobe.
The flagship holding firm of the Aditya Birla Group, Grasim Industries registered a 15.54 per cent rise in consolidated net profit during Q4, FY24. Driven by a strong performance in its cement and financial services sector, the company’s profit increased to Rs 2,721.81 crore during the quarter from Rs 2,355.67 crore profit recorded in the same quarter of the previous year.
The company’s revenue from operations increased by 12.74 per cent to Rs 37,727.13 crore during the reviewed quarter from Rs 33,462.14 crore in the corresponding period of the previous fiscal year. The company highlighted that this was its highest consolidated revenue to date.
Despite facing an exceptional items charge of Rs 538 crore in the March quarter, the company’s consolidated earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation, and amortisation (EBITDA) grew by 27 per cent Y-o-Y to Rs 6,196 crore.
Total expenses surged by 11.18 per cent to Rs 33,750.46 crore while total income, including revenue from other sources, rose by 13.27 per cent to Rs 38,154.36 crore.
However, the company’s revenues from the Cellulosic Fibers segment declined to Rs 3,761.75 crore in the March quarter from Rs 3,764.06 crore in Q4 FY23. The company attributed this dip to the amendment in the MSME policy, which led to low inventory build-up in the textile value chain, and increased cheaper imports from China impacting the Cellulosic Fashion Yarn (CFY) business.
The revenues of the Chemicals business declined by 13.11 per cent to Rs 2,082.98 crore from Rs 2,397.47 crore a year ago, due to an over-supply situation affecting caustic soda prices in domestic markets. Nevertheless, the Chemicals business achieved its highest-ever caustic soda sales volume of 308 KT in Q4 FY24, up 8 per cent Y-o-Y.
In contrast, revenues of the Building Materials business increased by 11.25 per cent to Rs 20,918.55 crore, compared to Rs 18,803.03 crore in the same quarter last year. This segment includes UltraTech Cement, the newly launched Paints business, and the B2B e-commerce business Birla Pivot. The growth was driven by increased sales volumes in UltraTech and expansion in the B2B E-commerce business.
Revenue from the financial services segment, Aditya Birla Capital (ABCL), surged by 29.51 percent to Rs 10,483.77 crore from Rs 8,094.51 crore a year earlier. Revenues of other segments, including Textiles, Insulators, and Renewable Power, increased by 5.95 per cent to Rs 789.85 crore.
For the financial year ending March 31, 2024, Grasim Industries reported a 10.4 pre cent decline in net profit, totaling Rs 9,925.65 crore, compared to Rs 11,078.20 crore in FY 2022-23. However, revenue from operations for FY24 increased by 11.35 per cent to Rs 1,30,978.48 crore, up from Rs 1,17,627.08 crore the previous year. The company attributed this growth to strong performance across its diversified business portfolio, particularly in the Building Materials and Financial Services sectors.
Renowned for its authentic athletic apparel since 1919, Champion has unveiled its latest innovation; the Champion Weighted Hoodie, with an aim to promote mental health.
The weighted hoodie was invented after a survey conducted by the brand in 2022. on 19 to 35-year-olds revealed a desire for a weighted wearable product from the brand Champion by over 90 per cent of the consumers. Responding to this widespread need, the brand created this stylish and innovative hoodie for day-to-day wearable relief.
The weighted hoodie prototype represents another step in the brand’s pursuit of meaningful product creating a real impact for consumers. The hoodie is a perfect example of addressing mental health concerns and daily life stress. It is inspired by the use of weighted products for comfort by the brand’s consumers. Through this adaptive fashion, the brand aims to destigmatise mental health.
Weighing 8 lbs, this machine-washable hoodie is quilted with micro glass beads to provide the scientifically proven benefits of weighted pressure, similar to weighted blankets, which can reduce symptoms of stress and anxiety and support other mental health and neurodivergent conditions. The hoodie was developed in collaboration with Thera, a small business founded by Jenny Rosenberg, who began creating weighted wearable products during the pandemic. The prototype is undergoing testing with leading mental health experts, including Dr. Kerri McBee-Black, Head Adaptive Apparel Researcher and Professor at the University of Missouri.
In 2023, the Hanesbrands-owned Champion launched its first global brand campaign, titled ‘Champion What Moves You,’ redefining its mission to provide every individual a platform to pursue their passions and live their true purpose. For Champion, being a ‘Champion’ is about taking action and creating with intention, supporting important causes across communities, including mental health.
Developed in partnership with Thera, the Champion Weighted Hoodie weighs 8 lbs (3.6 kg) with balanced distribution across the arms, chest, back, and hood. It is made with premium quality, non-toxic, odor-free, machine-washable micro glass beads.
Easy to clean and maintain, the hoodie offers multiple sensory experiences and extended wear options with one side textured and quilted, and the other soft and smooth. Designed for those with sensory label issues, the hoodie aids in garment reversibility while retaining important legal and wash information. It acts as a focus agent for those with fidgeting tendencies.
In its second crowdfunding round launched this week, circular denim brand Mud Jeans aims to raise a capital worth €250,000 (approximately $270,600). The brand will use these funds to enhance awareness among customers, boost online sales, and expand its wholesale business. These growth plans of the company entail an investment of over €1 million this year.
To be hosted on the sharefunding platform Eyevestor, the crowdfunding will be initiated on a profit sharing basis. Consumers will start getting dividends within four to six years, as the Dutch brand will reinvest all earnings back into the company for growth. Investment opportunities range from a minimum of €250 ($270) to €25,000 ($27,060), with various benefits such as shopping credits, free jeans, and membership in Mud’s think tank. For investments exceeding €25,000, the brand will provide a custom proposal.
In its first crowdfunding round, Mud Jeans successfully raised €641,000 ($693,800) from 460 investors. If the second round is successful, the company plans to initiate a third round of funding.
Mud Jeans is known for its ‘lease a jeans’ program and aims to promote 100 per cent circular denim. This year, the brand has revamped its approach to manufacturing and selling jeans, strengthened its management team, and improved its product range. The current collection includes popular styles like barrel jeans, wide-leg jeans, maxi skirts, and coordinates. In May, the company also launched a bolder branding strategy and a new, consumer-friendly website.
Mud Jeans aims to achieve revenues worth € 25 million by 2030. By then, the company plans to expand its retail presence from 210 to 780 stores and increase its annual sales of jeans from 43,000 to 360,000, all made from 100 percent recycled denim.
