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Honduras wants to be one of the top textile and apparel producers and exporters in the world. As of now the Central American country is the second largest exporter of textiles in the region, after Mexico. Total export value of Honduras’ textile products is expected to grow by 10 per cent in 2017. The US, Europe and Canada are some of the largest export destinations for Honduras.
By 2020, Honduras wants to double its apparel exports and become the fifth largest clothing supplier for the US, up from its current position at seventh. The project is set to generate over 2,00,000 new jobs in the sector, and there will be additional funds for training more skilled workers, establishing renewable energy facilities and building logistics infrastructure.
Sustainability and innovation will be the new main focuses for Honduras to develop its textile and apparel sector. A big emphasis has been placed on technology to ensure the sustainability of all manufacturing processes in the textile industry, from saving water in the fabric dyeing process to using recycled fibers in production.
The country’s location allows it to have shorter time span and lower costs to ship its textile and apparel products to major ports in the United States and Europe compared to any other Asian textile exporter.
European clothing companies prefer to source wool from Italy than from China. This is a sign of the changing times. China is caught between rising domestic costs and persistent technical and distribution advantages elsewhere. Italian fabric producers are closer to the market, so not only is transport cheaper also timelines between orders and sales are shorter and in the fast-paced world of high fashion, this matters.
When cost differences are significant, quality may be less important but if overall costs are comparable, quality should be decisive in sourcing decisions. If Chinese producers still have a reputation for relatively low-quality textiles, then as the labor cost picture worsens, they will likely have nothing left to offer.
At a macro level, China has for years aspired to move up the value chain, to capture more of higher skilled components of the global supply chain. In keeping with this, China was content for the low-value textile industry to relocate to Southeast Asia in search of cheaper labor. But now, as China’s own costs rise still further, they find themselves competing against long established, higher quality production centers like Italy, and losing out. Even in textiles, China is no longer the prime destination for new investment.
Thailand is hosting FESPA Asia 2017, February 15 to 17, 2017. The focuses of the exhibition is on wide-format digital, screen and textile printing, allowing visitors the chance to source all they need for their businesses under one roof. Domestic and international brands are exhibiting.
FESPA Asia is the latest addition to the FESPA portfolio of established trade print exhibitions. Designed to connect screen, digital and textile printing communities across the Asean region and beyond, this event brings together print professionals looking to discover the newest products, the latest innovations and the best advice.
FESPA is the largest specialty and creative printing federation with 37 member associations, and has the philosophy of reinvesting in the global print community for sustainable growth across the board. French software house Caldera is presenting its award-winning print workflow solutions. Products that Caldera will be showcasing at the event include its premium signs and display solutions software and its market-leading textile-printing solutions. The new Caldera V11 RIP suite speeds up image processing and improves organisation for wide-format print businesses of all kinds.
Hexis is showcasing its new HXS5000, which offers 14 colors and allows application on flat and slightly curved surfaces. Senfa is displaying Decoprint, a range of coated textiles for large-format digital printers.
Lenzing’s viscose and modal fibers have been awarded the Biobased Product Label by the US Department of Agriculture (USDA). The certification is proof that all standard types of fiber produced by Lenzing are fully derived from the natural and renewable raw material, wood. The company’s Lyocell fiber Tencel has been certified as 100 per cent bio-based content since 2011.
Eco-responsibility represents a key component of Lenzing’s group strategy. Lenzing is in tune with the growing trend towards ecology and sustainability. Lenzing fibers are not only derived 100 per cent from nature, but they are also returned to nature at the end of their life cycle. Standard Lenzing fibers are 100 per cent biodegradable and even compostable.
Based in Austria, Lenzing supplies to the global textile and nonwoven industry with high-quality, botanic cellulose fibers. Its portfolio ranges from dissolving pulp to standard and specialty cellulose fibers. With 79 years of experience in fiber production, the group is the only company worldwide combining the manufacturing of all three cellulose fiber generations on a large scale under one roof – from viscose to modal to tencel.
The certification by USDA is designed to motivate government institutions and companies to purchase bio-based products or those which largely consist of biological materials.
"With global cotton industry under scrutiny for using forced and child labor and polluting the environment, Western companies are now working with farmers to clean up fashion's leading natural fiber - and its complex supply chain. The phenomenon is visible with a crop of farmers coming ahead towards this cause. Kanchen Kanjarya is one such example having a small farm in Mayapur, Gujarat."
With global cotton industry under scrutiny for using forced and child labor and polluting the environment, Western companies are now working with farmers to clean up fashion's leading natural fiber - and its complex supply chain. The phenomenon is visible with a crop of farmers coming ahead towards this cause. Kanchen Kanjarya is one such example having a small farm in Mayapur, Gujarat.
Working for eight hours a day on the six acre plot, Kanjarya is one of millions of small holder farms in India supplying cotton to garment factories making clothes for Western brands. Kanjarya is one of 1,250 women farmers in Gujarat, India's biggest cotton and cottonseed producing state, taking part in one of a number of small initiatives led by companies to combat environmental problems and break the cycle of child labour.
For the past three years, these women farmers have had classes and infield training twice a month in sustainable farming methods such as water efficiency, natural pesticides, and soil health, designed to increase cotton yields and income. The pilot, by social enterprise CottonConnect, India's Self Employed Women's Association and funded by UK budget retailer Primark, has pushed up profits more than two-fold and is expanding to 10,000 farmers over six years, its founders say.
Local sourcing
Elsewhere in India, the C&A Foundation, affiliated with global retailer C&A (and in a partnership with the Thomson Reuters Foundation on trafficking), is working with various groups to help 25,000 farmers move to organic cotton. And the non-profit Better Cotton Initiative, set up in 2005, has nearly 1,000 members including retailers like IKEA, H&M, Burberry and Adidas, committed to fair work practices in cotton and regulated use of land, chemicals and water. They have been witnessing an increasing trend of companies getting involved in cotton production.
Alison Ward, Chief Executive at CottonConnect says, the world is changing and it is starting to be far more about local sourcing but getting to the middle of the supply chain is a real challenge. Only 10-12 percent of cotton globally is sustainable and it will take time, effort and investment to shift to farming methods that could boost profits and combat labor abuses in the crop historically plagued by slavery.
Experts say cotton supply chain is the hardest to crack as the journey from field to store involves so many stages – from seed production, to cotton growing, to gins to separate seeds and fibre, spinning mills to garment factories.
India’s global positioning
India, the world's second largest cotton producer after China and ahead of the United States and Pakistan, is the only country named for having child and forced labour in both cottonseed production as well as cotton growing. Indian group Glocal Research's 2014 study ‘Cotton's Forgotten Children’ found the number of children under 14 working on cottonseed farms doubled from 2010 to 200,000 with small hands useful in cross pollination to produce hybrid seeds.
In pockets of Gujarat and Rajasthan, the situation has deteriorated and the issue is what defines a family enterprise and whether children registered for school do attend.
MC Karina, Deputy Rural Labor Commissioner for Gujarat, claimed they have been working on this concern for the last eight years and are now sure that not a single child is working on the cottonseed farms.
Global brands take initiatives
With the complexity and lack of transparency in the cotton supply chain, international brands are getting more involved for the sake of their reputation and to meet ethical commitments. Katharine Stewart, Primark's ethical trade and environmental sustainability director, said her company set out to find an ethical and sustainable way to produce cotton at the same price as conventional cotton. Organic and Fairtrade has a premium. Primark, part of Associated British Foods, sells low-priced clothes such as $5 T-shirts in 11 countries, and is constantly under pressure to explain how it makes clothes so affordable without exploiting workers.
Stewart said the retailer, with a high volume, low cost business model, ensured workers were well treated in supplier factories and paid at least the minimum wage with regular and surprise audits but wanted to dig further into the supply chain. She said the Gujarat pilot proved sustainable cotton could be produced at the same price as conventional cotton. Definitely there are little signs of improvements, but there's a long way to go.
The growth in athleisure is not only influencing the luxury goods industry but also the jeans category. Yoga and jogging bottoms have gained appeal. The jeans industry is now looking at ways at turning the athleisure trend into its own opportunity, as brands design denim for men and women with new stretch fibers and fabrics with more effective sweat management to make them feel like jogging bottoms.
The global jeans market has seen a slow growth over the last few years. The new innovations in more comfortable textures have helped jeans see a global increase of almost four per cent in 2016.
Though performance sportswear takes the lead in terms of market size, growth in sports-inspired clothing, or athleisure, is being witnessed in emerging markets such as India and Thailand as well as core markets such as the US.
Athleisure has evolved from what brands dabbled in with capsule collections to a full-fledged business opportunity. With a wider selection and greater availability, sports-inspired products are gaining in popularity among a consumer base that seeks to incorporate sports-styled designs into their everyday wardrobe. Both sports-inspired footwear and apparel are growing at a rapid pace, registering ten per cent and six per cent growth in 2016.
"China has been playing an increasingly important role in the global yarn and fibre industry, not only as a strong buyer but also as a high-quality supplier that is looking to exports. As a result, a significantly higher number of Chinese exhibitors will feature at next month’s Yarn Expo Spring including some of the industry’s biggest names, reflecting the fair’s leading position in the country. Over 275 domestic exhibitors (2016: 150) have already confirmed their participation, which is schedule from March 15 – 17, in hall 5.1 of the National Exhibition and Convention Center (Shanghai)."
China has been playing an increasingly important role in the global yarn and fibre industry, not only as a strong buyer but also as a high-quality supplier that is looking to exports. As a result, a significantly higher number of Chinese exhibitors will feature at next month’s Yarn Expo Spring including some of the industry’s biggest names, reflecting the fair’s leading position in the country. Over 275 domestic exhibitors (2016: 150) have already confirmed their participation, which is schedule from March 15 – 17, in hall 5.1 of the National Exhibition and Convention Center (Shanghai). Together with the international exhibitors from 10 countries and regions, the fair is expected to host over 360 exhibitors.
Display Zones
These domestic exhibitors will showcase a diverse selection of innovative yarns and fibres, such as nylon, viscose filament, renewable & recycled fibres and much more under five distinctive display zones:
Fancy Yarn Zone: Nearly 50 exhibitors, including some leading suppliers like Dongguan Jiancheng Textile, Hangzhou Hengniu Fancy Yarn, Jiangyin Haoqiang Textile, Yiwu Heny Imp.Exp and Zhejiang Longyou Chaobao Textile, will bring together the latest collections of creative and trendy fancy yarns.
Natural Cotton Zone: Around 100 of China’s top cotton yarn suppliers will exhibit high-end cotton yarns as well as new imitation varieties, such as vortex spinning and differentiated yarns. In addition, four regional pavilions from Henan, Fujian Changle, Jiangxi and Xinjiang can also be found here.
Colourful Chemical Zone: Four theme areas – China Fibre Trend Area 2017-18, Ecology & Functional Area, Fashion & Technology Area and Green & Eco-friendly Area – will host the foremost Chinese fibre brands with a wide spectrum of innovative and eco-friendly low carbon fibres.
Quality Wool Zone and Green Linen Zone: The focal point for outstanding wool and linen yarns and fibres Shenghong China Fibre Trend Forum 2017-18 illustrates ‘Fibres Change Life’ concept. Located in the Colourful Chemical Zone, Shenghong China Fibre Trend Area 2017-18 will reveal the concept of ‘Fibres Change Life’ through demonstrations of various cutting-edge fibre products, and the latest technologies and trends.
Concurrent shows
Yarn Expo Spring will showcase some of the world’s highest quality yarn and fibre products, such as natural and blended yarns including cotton, wool, flax/regenerated flax, silk, and man-made fibres and yarns, as well as specialty products including elastic, and fancy and blended yarns. Along with Yarn Expo Spring 2017, four other textile trade fairs are held concurrently in the same venue: Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics – Spring Edition, Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles – Spring Edition, PH Value and the China International Fashion Fair (CHIC). Yarn Expo Spring is organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd; The Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT; China Cotton Textile Association; China Wool Textile Association; China Chemical Fiber Association; China Bast & Leaf Fibres Textiles Association; and China Textile Information Centre.
"Amongst the many high-quality offerings at Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics’ premium SalonEurope is the Milano Unica Pavilion, which will feature again at the 2017 Spring Edition in March. This follows the huge success of the last October edition. The pavilion, which is by invitation only, recorded a 20 per cent increase in buyers compared to the Autumn edition. Moreover, the organizers were pleased with not just this growth but a rise in quality of the buyers as well. “We registered an important increase in high quality clients,” says Ercole Botto Poala, President, Milano Unica."
Amongst the many high-quality offerings at Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics’ premium SalonEurope is the Milano Unica Pavilion, which will feature again at the 2017 Spring Edition in March. This follows the huge success of the last October edition. The pavilion, which is by invitation only, recorded a 20 per cent increase in buyers compared to the Autumn edition. Moreover, the organizers were pleased with not just this growth but a rise in quality of the buyers as well. “We registered an important increase in high quality clients,” says Ercole Botto Poala, President, Milano Unica.
Now, Milano Unica is optimistic about the coming edition, with Poala noting exports of Italian textiles to China grew by around 3 per cent in 2015, and in 2017, he expects demand for Italian women’s wear fabrics to grow. “2017 will be a positive year not only for menswear fabrics. Comments from the womenswear textile mills (at the fair) highlight a constant increase in quality visitors and knowledgeable choices of products,” he said.
Zones a top attraction
SalonEurope also attracts buyers looking for high-quality offerings with its country pavilions. This edition includes: France and Germany Zone. Since its debut in 2015, the France Zone has become an instant favourite among buyers thanks to the top brands exhibiting there, which in this edition include: Goutarel SA, Malhia Kent, Promostyl and Solstiss Sarl. Germany Zone will also feature well-known industry names including Transfertex, a leader in pattern designs and digital & transfer printing, and Union Knopf with its wide range of quality accessories. Apart from these three countries, individual exhibitors from Denmark, Switzerland, Turkey and the UK are amongst those already confirmed to exhibit in SalonEurope.
Asia shines through
Asia is well represented again at Intertextile Shanghai, with country and region pavilions from Japan, Korea, Taiwan, India and Pakistan housed in the International Hall. The Japan Pavilion, organised by Japan Fashion Week Organization, will feature exhibitors of high-quality cotton, man-made and knitted fabrics, and lace and embroidery for womenswear. The Korea Pavilion will highlight the country’s expertise in innovative products, with a range of man-made and functional fabrics on offer thanks to the Korea Fashion Textile Association. The Taiwan Textile Federation’s Taiwan Pavilion will showcase knitting fabrics, lace and embroidery, functional and man-made fabrics, as well as blended yarns.
Representing India for the first time at the fair is the Powerloom Development & Export Promotion Council Pavilion. Exhibitors in this pavilion will highlight their cotton, linen/ramie, man-made and lace and embroidery products. The Pakistan Pavilion, organised by the Commercial Section, Embassy of Pakistan features exhibitors of cotton fabrics for casual wear and jeans wear.
Lenzing Group Pavilion
As one of the industry’s leading innovators, Lenzing will organise their own group pavilion for the first time to allow partner mills to showcase cutting-edge textile products. Nearly 25 of these mills will exhibit a range of cotton, man-made, knitted, lace and embroidery, and fibre and yarn products made from Lenzing’s raw materials.
Concurrent shows
In addition to Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics, four other textile fairs are happening concurrently at the National Exhibition and Convention Center, Shanghai. These include Yarn Expo Spring (Hall 5.1), Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles – Spring Edition (Hall 4.2), CHIC (Halls 1, 2, 3 & 4.1) and PH Value (Hall 3). Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics – Spring Edition 2017 is co-organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK; the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT; and the China Textile Information Centre.
DuPont’s renewably sourced fiber Sorona has been chosen runner-up for Fiber Producer of the Year by the World Textile Awards.
Sorona is an illustration of DuPont’s commitment to developing and delivering exceptional products that benefit every level of the supply chain. Sorona is derived, in part, from renewably sourced plant-based ingredients, allowing for a decreased dependence on fossil fuels and reduction in greenhouse gas emissions. In addition to sustainability, it offers unique performance benefits including superior softness, unmatched durability and inherent stain resistance without the need for topical treatments. As a multipurpose fiber, it can be used alone or combined with synthetic or natural fibers for different benefits and endless options.
World Textile Awards are dedicated to recognizing and rewarding excellence across the global textile industry. Companies are assessed on their market position, technical performance, environmental and sustainability practices, quality control and employee programs.
DuPont has been bringing world-class science and engineering to the global marketplace in the form of innovative products, materials, and services since 1802. The company believes that by collaborating with customers, governments, NGOs, and thought leaders it is possible to help find solutions to such global challenges as providing enough healthy food for people everywhere, decreasing dependence on fossil fuels, and protecting life and the environment.
UK apparel and textile exports rose almost seven per cent from last year, with a 28 per cent increase since 2012. The rise has come on the back of increased interest in heritage UK manufacturing, the creativity of British fashion designers and the importance of the UK as a key apparel trading hub.
However, there could be disruption ahead as the country extricates itself from its long-term membership of the EU. In 2016 the European trade bloc was the UK’s biggest export market and accounted for 74 per cent of the products it exported.
Britain’s apparel and textile exports to the EU rose 36 per cent from 2012 to 2016. But imports also rose with the UK trade deficit increasing. Many UK fashion chains import yarn and some manmade materials from abroad, making them vulnerable to currency fluctuations. If they import from China or India, the cost of yarn and raw materials are US dollar denominated. That impacts on the cost. Aside from rising costs, there is the potential impact on tariffs from a hard Brexit.
If the UK does not reach a post-Brexit trade agreement with the EU by 2019, the nation could be forced to use World Trade Organisation rules. This would mean tariffs on food and clothing rising sharply, with clothing and footwear prices going up by 16 per cent.
