FW
Lycra is the original spandex fiber that revolutionized the fashion industry. It is the best-known branded fiber in the world and has changed clothes and the way we wear them. Originally invented to replace rubber threads that caused women’s foundation garments to lose their shape and fit over time, and made them hot and uncomfortable to wear, Lycra outperformed the natural fiber it replaced by adding lasting comfort, fit and the ability to move freely.
Lycra is owned by Invista. It quickly became apparent that the fiber had the power to transform other types of women’s clothing and menswear too. Today, this nearly invisible fiber can be found in virtually every apparel segment, including lingerie, underwear, denim, active wear, hosiery, socks, swimwear, and ready-to-wear apparel. It has also been the catalyst for the development of new multi-billion-dollar segments across shape wear, stretch denim, compression sportswear and athleisure apparel.
What began six decades ago as a single elastic fiber renowned for its ability to stretch and snap back to its original shape, time after time and wash after wash, has evolved into a portfolio of over 200 differentiated fibers designed to meet a wide variety of consumer needs. Each one is engineered to improve fabric aesthetics and add lasting performance benefits that continue to drive sales for leading apparel brands and retailers around the globe.
"While sustainability rankings have gained prominence however, one doesn’t really know the authenticity of these reports and on what basis assessment are done. Sustainability assessment is complex, especially where the value chain is long and products are diverse. Rules to ensure a ‘level playing field’ are set out in guidelines for Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) by the International Organization of Standardization (ISO). ISO 14040:2006 and 14044:2006 provide broad guidance for quantifying environmental impacts of a product from cradle-to-grave. Importantly, in 2017 ISO provided clearer guidance on using an LCA approach for comparative"
While sustainability rankings have gained prominence however, one doesn’t really know the authenticity of these reports and on what basis assessment are done. Sustainability assessment is complex, especially where the value chain is long and products are diverse. Rules to ensure a ‘level playing field’ are set out in guidelines for Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) by the International Organization of Standardization (ISO). ISO 14040:2006 and 14044:2006 provide broad guidance for quantifying environmental impacts of a product from cradle-to-grave. Importantly, in 2017 ISO provided clearer guidance on using an LCA approach for comparative assertions and for communicating a ‘footprint’ (a single score across one or few impacts). LCA is the most holistic system currently available, but it is still evolving. It is not a perfect tool and there are many dimensions of sustainability not captured in LCA.
LCA provides a basis for a ‘level playing field’ across equivalent products but only if applied correctly. In practice, some data are frequently missing or of poor quality, and the assumptions or simplifications that are made because of this affect results and potentially bias comparisons. Simplifications such as not including the full life cycle or counting only a few environmental impact categories risk making the field no longer level. It is found that in apparel sustainability assessments, natural fibres such as wool are particularly disadvantaged.
Full life cycle
Each stage of the life cycle of a garment from extraction of raw materials to final disposal affects the environment in some way. It differs depending on the impact, type of apparel and material. Taking climate change as an example, over half of the full life cycle impact of wool garment commonly occurs at the raw material stage, while for polyester raw material may represent less than 10 per cent. Clearly, comparison at the fibre stage cannot give an accurate ranking for garments of different materials.
Levi Strauss’s 2013 LCA showed that over the full life of denim jeans, consumer care (washing, drying, etc.) represented 37 per cent of climate change and 23 per cent of water consumption impacts. Additionally, a paper by Consumption Research Norway (SIFO) revealed significant variations in consumer care across garments of different materials. Woolen garments were washed less frequently than cotton and at lower temperatures using a gentler cycle, with less tumble drying than the average for all laundry. According to the analysis, wool clothing commonly has a longer service life than equivalent items of alternative fibres, reducing ‘production burden’ per wear or per garment. Along with end-of-life biodegradability, this is another important factor in sustainability.
Environmental impact
To avoid trade-offs between impacts, ISO requires all categories of significance to be counted in publicly available comparisons. For issues such as microplastic pollution, where reliable indicators and quantification methods are not yet available, this limitation should be acknowledged. Where possible the risk of trade-offs should be identified. For example, moving to replace cotton with polyester in apparel may reduce water consumption and land use at the fibre production stage, but increase harm to marine and freshwater ecosystems and potentially human health due to microfibres.
Progress so far
Data issues, methodology development, and incorrect application of tools such as LCA are some of bug bears for successful sustainability assessment. Examples for wool include a new LCA study by The New Zealand Merino Company and an AWI survey to build on data and understanding of use phase. Continuing to report results & data and engage with organisations including the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) will improve the quality of apparel sustainability assessments. Technical experts globally are working on new and improved impact methods and while expertise in correctly applying these methods is growing across the industry, attentiveness is needed to ensure that not even unconscious bias undoes good progress towards a level playing field in this complex area.
US based robotic sewing pioneer SoftWear Automation is collaborating with European manufacturers, brands and retailers.
The aim is to encourage production of sewn goods in Europe. The plan will start with T-shirts and create automation capability within European manufacturing. The company then plans to build those capabilities across a wider range of products, including footwear, since Europe has historically been a focal point of footwear.
SoftWear, which launched in 2012, aims to change the current inefficient market environment by creating autonomous sewn goods work lines for home goods, footwear and automotive sectors. With its patented fully automated sewbots disruptive technology, the company aims at geographically shortening the distance between manufacturer and consumer by utilising the benefits of disruptive technologies.
Sewbots use a combination of patented high-speed computer vision and lightweight robotics to steer fabric to and through the needle with greater speed and accuracy than a human. Using sewbot work lines customers are expected to be able to increase productivity while decreasing their overall defect rate.
The company’s newest sewbot work line is available for global pre-order. The patented sewbot pick-place-sew automation has been expanded to fully-automated shoe uppers.
The fundamental problem in the fashion retail industry today is the wrong product at the wrong time and an oversupply of it. Localised manufacturing has to enter the strategic capability.
The Government of Pakistan has allocated Rs 1,500 million in Public Sector Development Programme (PSDP) for some on-going and four new schemes. The Pakistan Government has assigned Rs 100 million for establishing an Institute of Fashion and Design in Karachi. The institute will develop and promote the country’s fashion sector and attract investment.
The government has also allocated close to Rs 280.437 million for schemes of the Textile Industry Division in order to promote the country’s textile sector. The Karachi expo centre will also be remodeled and expand as the government has assigned Rs 500 million for it. Additionally, Rs 700 million has been earmarked for setting up an expo centre in Peshawar, according to Pakistani media reports.
Over a thousand stitching units will also be established in the country at a cost of Rs 154 million. About Rs 18 million will be spent on the Faisalabad garment city training projects. The government has also allocated Rs 58 million for standardising the system of producing high quality and clean cotton.
Nilit is a leading manufacturer of high-quality nylon 6.6 fibers. The company operates globally, with manufacturing operations and marketing offices in key regions such as Europe, USA, Turkey, Latin America, Asia-Pacific and China. Renowned brands incorporate the innovative fibers in their collections.
Nilit nylon 6.6 fibers are inherently softer, sturdier, more durable, moisture absorbent and resist odor better than other synthetic fibers, making them perfect for active wear, athleisure and casual sportswear.
Nilit performance yarns are engineered to deliver the added value and functionality that athletes need. Nilit Breeze has a cooling effect for enhanced comfort in warm environments. Nilit Heat keeps one warm in cold conditions or during cool downs, while Nilit Aquarius keeps one dry when sweating. Nilit Innergy has been developed to stimulate blood circulation, energise cells and reduce the development of cellulite.
Functional fibers made from Nilit Fiber’s special high quality nylon 6.6 deliver measurable results when it comes to performance, comfort, and well being. The fibers have energizing, cooling, warming and moisture-transporting properties.
Nilit is based in Israel. It is known its brands Sensil and Sensil Breeze. The secret is in polymer and yarn production. Nilit does not finish its fibers and yarns but integrates mineral micro particles before the fiber is even spun.
Sri Lanka’s apparel exports grew 4.1 per cent during the first quarter of this year. Apparel exports to the European Union grew by 5.2 per cent year on year while exports to the United States grew by 5.1 per cent year on year.
However, exports to the EU slowed down during March, recording only a marginal growth of 0.5 per cent year on year. In contrast, apparel exports to the United States grew significantly by 17.7 per cent year on year.
The trade dispute between the US and China is helping somewhat Sri Lankan apparel exports to the US.
Both apparel and textile exports during the first quarter of 2018 grew by four per cent year on year.
The country has targeted to achieve 5.5 billion dollars in apparel exports this year with a minimum ten per cent growth in exports to the EU countries. However there’s a concern on the European markets due to the weather conditions. Because of the long winter in Europe, the retail sector has slowed down as the long winters cause people to spend lesser time in shopping.
Some manufacturers in Sri Lanka are still engaged in manufacturing basic apparel despite the country’s gaining the GSP Plus concession last year.
Future Group owned firm Future Retail as part of its joint venture (JV) with Oman based Khimji Ramdas (KR) Group has incorporated a new firm "Future Retail LLC" to foray into the Oman and other Middle East markets.
The firm will open around six FBB fashion outlets in the Middle East during the current financial year. In all, the JV company plans to open around 18 exclusive FBB stores in the Middle East over the next few years with a total investment of Rs 150 crore (approx $ 22.5 million).
Future Group’s value fashion brand FBB also plans to enter the top ten performing global fashion brands in the 2019 financial year with its international expansion.
With the advent of Rohan Batra, Managing Director of Mumbai-headquartered Cravatex Brands, which has the license to sell Fila products in India, fortunes are turning in the company’s favour.
Fila saw sedated growth compared to its much illustrated contemporaries like Adidas and Puma.
In 2014, Fila devised a new strategy by looking at the product mix, closed down outlets that were adding no value to the brand experience, exiting some of the footwear categories, created a design department that was edgy, and adding a lot of global products that were not available earlier in the country.
This has resulted in doubling of the average maximum retail price, increase in average margin delivery, improved profits and modernised products
Fila is present in India since 1970s
Russia plans to allocate up to 250 million dollars in the design and production of nonwovens and technical textiles for the needs of the Russian military forces during the next several years.
The majority of funding for the project will be provided from the Russian military budget. Most of the funds will be invested in the design of special materials, based on technical textiles, which will be used in the production of military uniform clothing and other military equipage for Russian soldiers, including those who are currently deployed in Syria and other Middle Eastern states.
The enterprises that will participate in the project are Russia’s largest producers of technical textiles and nonwovens, which have previously supplied their products to Western markets, European, in particular.
The project also involves acceleration of R&D activities in the industry, involving some of Russia’s leading research institutions in the field of technical textiles and nonwovens as well as the country’s leading technical universities.
In recent years, Russian military and defense has become one of the largest consumers of nonwovens and technical textiles in Russia. This has provided a significant impetus for the industry and created conditions for its further growth.
When denim is worn out, consumers tend to dump old clothes but now denim makers have a new way of reusing used denim. The Blue Jeans Go Green denim recycling programme gives new purpose to old denim. Roian Atwood, Director – Sustainability, Wrangler points out that in 2017, the company contributed more than 43,000 pounds of denim, which produced over 80,000 sq. ft of insulation. In 2006, Cotton Incorporated started the program to help divert denim from landfills. Since then, more than two million pieces including jeans, shorts, skirts, jackets, dresses, and shirts, have been collected and turned into housing insulation.
UltraTouch Denim Insulation is created through a partnership with Bonded Logic Inc. To create this insulation, denim garments are collected. Zippers, buttons and embellishments are removed. The denim is returned to its natural cotton fibre state and then it’s upcycled into denim insulation. So far, more than 4 million sqft of insulation has been manufactured from the Blue Jeans Go Green programme. With this initiative, more than 1,000 tons of denim garments have been kept from being sent to landfills. Looking at the success rate, big giants such as Holt Renfrew, Madewell, Rag & Bone, and J. Crew, have also partnered with the move. At each store, when used denim is dropped, the customer receives a dollar or a percentage towards buying something new from the denim range. So far, Madewell alone has collected close to 300,000 pairs of jeans, and as a result more than 300 Habitat for Humanity homes have been built with insulation made from the pre-worn denim. The homes were built in cities that included New Orleans, Charleston, and Los Angeles.
Wrangler is the recent partner to the program. Currently, the company collects denim scraps, material and products from its internal manufacturing, product development and distribution centres. Atwood observes if customers want to mail in their old denim to headquarters, the company will include it in its recycling programme. In 2018, Wrangler is working together with the Blue Jeans Go Green programme to provide 130,000 sqft of the sustainable denim insulation to All Hands and Hearts – Smart Response for its rebuild effort after Hurricane Harvey.
Upcycling & recycling
The Cotton Council International (CCI) and Cotton Incorporated Global Environment Survey, revealed about three out of four consumers or more say they recycle (82 per cent), use refillable bottles (74 per cent) and purchase energy-saving appliances (72 per cent) in an effort to protect the environment. That’s followed by consumers who say they limit home water usage (69 per cent), recycle clothing or textiles (65 per cent), purchase local made products (62 per cent), and reduce overall consumption (55 per cent).
Besides retailers and manufacturers, Cotton Incorporated’s Blue Jeans Go Green programme has partnered nearly 60 colleges and universities across the country and collected more than 200,000 pieces of denim along the way. Atwood says the company is excited for the possibilities of engaging consumers in the programme. The company has already been insulating homes in Lumberton, NC, post-Hurricane Matthew, and All Hands has already been using the denim insulation for houses and schools in northeast Houston.
