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Outdoor apparel brand Patagonia has launched an online platform the ‘Patagonia Action Works’ platform which permits users to find local events, sign petitions in support of environmental issues as well as volunteering and donating money to local causes. Patagonia says it has supported activists working to find solutions to environmental issues since the last four decades. To this effect, the company has launched a platform ‘Patagonia Action Works’ to connect committed individuals to organisations working on environmental issues in their local communities. Patagonia’s founder, Yvon Chouinard says, Patagonia’s reason for existence is to force governments and corporations to take action in solving our environmental problems. Since the last 35 years, his company is giving out around $90 million to grassroot environmental activists. Patagonia says it supports people working on issues in the areas of land, water, climate, communities and biodiversity.
Lisa Pike Sheehy, VP, Environmental Activism at Patagonia, says “If we could connect our community, our friends, our customers, directly with local groups near where they live, working on issues they’re passionate about, suddenly these organisations would have the capacity to achieve even more.”
The California-based company donates a so-called ‘self-imposed tax’ consisting of a 1 per cent share of annual sales to the preservation and restoration of natural environments, through the ‘one per cent for the planet’ initiative.
Cut-price fashion chain Primark published details of factories in its supply chain to show to the world that it has nothing to hide when selling products manufactured without using slave labour. The budget retailer, which has 350 stores across Britain, Europe and the US, has published an online map showing details of over 600 suppliers’ factories in around 30 countries, including information about the number and gender of workers. Primark’s head of ethical trade, Katharine Stewart says, they are opening up about suppliers to boost transparency and visibility in supply chain. The numbers are adding on, from big brands Adidas to fashion retailers H&M and ASOS, are sharing information on their supply chains as they face mounting regulatory and consumer pressure to ensure their products are slavery-free.
It may be noted that supply chains are often complex as a product is manufactured, packaged and distributed in a process linking multiple suppliers in many countries, making it difficult to see forced labour. The International Labour Organization (ILO) and rights group Walk Free Foundation reports about 25 million people worldwide are estimated to be trapped in forced labour in 2016,
Peter McAllister of the Ethical Trading Initiative (ETI) points out Primark joins the select but growing group of leading companies that disclose details of their supplier factories. It is one more step in meeting consumer expectations. Primark said it had decided to divulge the details as most of its suppliers were also contracted by rival companies, many of which had already made the details public. Post alleged accusations that it used “sweatshops” and “modern-day slaves” to produce clothes sold for just a few pounds, Primark says it has stepped up efforts to tackle the risk of forced labour. The retailer minimises costs by spending very little on advertising and buying materials in bulk, Stewart said.
Maharashtra’s cabinet has approved the new textile policy for 2018-2023 aimed at attracting an investment of Rs 36,000 crore to the state and generating 10 lakh employment. Some of the major parts of the policy include cutting back on power tariffs and increasing capital subsidy to 45 per cent for spinning mills.
Officials say the policy uses the ‘Make in Maharashtra’ concept to strengthen the cotton industry and silk business. It is targeted at reducing regional imbalance in the state as higher concessions would be given for setting up units in Vidarbha, Marathwada and North Maharashtra. More emphasis would be placed on cotton producing regions which recorded a large number of farmer suicides.
Several schemes of Rs 4649 crore will be implemented under the new policy. The policy intends to create infrastructure for textile cluster and garment parks. The policy has also suggested a proposal for setting up a textile university in the Vidarbha region. Subhash Deshmukh, State Textile Minister says they have made provisions to reduce power tariffs for spinning mills. Besides, spinning mills were given financial assistance in several instalments. Now, they would get financial assistance in two instalments only. A key reason for spinning mills reporting losses is the higher power tariffs, when compared to other states. The power tariffs in Gujarat, Karnataka and a few other states are between Rs 4 and Rs 6 per unit, while it is Rs 9 per unit in Maharashtra. Correspondingly, spinning mills will be urged to set up solar power plants on their land and the power generated from it will be used by spinning mills. Hence, the power tariffs are likely to be reduced to Rs 3.5 per unit. Further, capital subsidy has been substantially increased for processing units, spinning mills and modernisation of powerlooms. It proposes to give 45 per cent capital subsidy for processing units and 25 per cent for spinning mills and modernisation of powerlooms.
Levi Strauss announced its full year revenue grew 8 per cent to touch $4.9 billion. Chip Bergh, President and CEO said in a statement “Our growth and momentum accelerated in Q4 capping the strongest revenue year the company has had in more than a decade. Our strategies are working and the investments that we’ve made to diversify our business over the past few years are paying off, best demonstrated by the strength of the Levi’s brand globally."
For the fiscal year November 26, 2017, net revenues grew the most in Europe touching $1.3 billion, up 19 per cent compared to the same period last year. In Asia, net revenues grew by 5 per cent to $818 million, primarily reflecting direct-to-consumer expansion and performance, while in the Americas, the group's leading market, revenues grew 3 per cent to touch $2.8 billion.
Net revenue growth shows both strong results among direct-to-consumer sales and wholesale, however, due to unfavourable exchange rate adjustments and debt refinancing activities this year, Levi Strauss's full-year net income was down by 3 per cent. In its Q4, net revenues grew 13 per cent on a reported basis. Similarly full year results, net revenues grew the most in the European market rising 21 per cent to $374 million. In Asia, net revenues grew by 13 per cent to $237 million and in the Americas by 7 per cent to $855. The company had 53 additional company-operated stores at the end of fiscal 2017 than in a year earlier period.
The next edition of Kingpins Transformers denim seminar series will be held on April 17 in Amsterdam, and the focus will be on transparency. Leading ‘The Charge of the Light Brigade’ is Everlane, with its promise of ‘radical transparency’. A single click enables customers to see the entire process chain along with photographs. Andrew Olah, Founder of Kingpins Transformers discloses, “Everlane is growing by leaps and bounds because of what they’re doing. We can be sure their business model will be copied as all successful business models are copied.” In the long term every company will have to be transparent and show their entire supply chain. And consumers won’t want to buy from brands that don’t give that information, withhold that information or don’t know it.
For those that refuses to face the consequences, he sees a fate that’s similar to the rise and fall of IBM, which failed to recognise that the industry was going in the direction of personal computers, remained rooted in mainframe and ultimately lost it’s dominance. Olah does not claim to have the answers there is no one-size-fits-all solution he warns. Through panels and interactive sessions that include movers and shakers in the fibre, textile, technology, chemical and machinery sectors, Kingpins Transformers educates companies to help them sail through rocky waters. Kingpins Transformers, is a summit series spotlighting members of the denim community who are committed to creating, implementing and sharing the changes that need to happen in the jeans industry to make it more environmentally viable, socially responsible and financially sound.
Inditex Group, the world’s biggest clothes retailer and owner of the well-known fashion brand Zara has opened its first branch office in Pakistan. As per a Pakistan government statement, “Due to Pakistan Embassy and its Commercial Section in Spain’s sustained pursuance with Inditex Group, which comprises of 8 international renowned brands (Zara, Massimo Dutti, Pull and Bear, Bershka), Inditex Group has opened its buying house in Pakistan first time ever. It is heartening to inform about the significant and positive development with regards to trade between Pakistan and Spain,” It added.
Jose Manuel Romay de la Colina, a representative of the Inditex Group recently met Commercial Counsellor Muhammad Hamid Ali at the Embassy of Pakistan in Spain and “officially confirmed opening of its buying house in Karachi”. Romay was hopeful that due to the presence of buying house it is likely that Inditex Group will double its imports from Pakistan in the coming year or two with additional technical collaborations in the field of textiles and design,” the statement from the group’s official said.
Pakistan exports to Spain touched $405 million in the first five months of the current fiscal 2017/18. “It is likely to reach $550 million once we will include the data of December 2017 in terms of value the maximum increase in exports from Pakistan to Europe took place in Spain,” the statement noted.
“We are sanguine that for the first time in Pakistan and Spain bilateral trade history, our exports to Spain will cross $1 billion mark during the current financial year of Pakistan. Similarly, it will also likely cross one billion dollars as per the financial year of Spain which is from January 2017 to December 2017,” the statement added. After recording slow growth during the past couple of years, exports of textile and clothing went up by eight per cent to $6.642 billion in the first half of the current fiscal year of 2017/18. Textile exports from Pakistan which account for over 60 per cent of the country’s total annual exports.
Rakhi Parasurampuria, Director, Baba Textile Machinery Pvt Ltd. speaks to fashionatingWorld in an exclusive interview.
What machines do you have showcased here? Rakhi explains, “Some of our machines on display are embroidery, laser cutting and mix. Innovation is our password, we keep innovating on our machinery along with introducing new technologies in every fair we participate in.”
What is the USP of your brand? “It’s all about our product. Our USP is that we are better in every respect when compared with other players in the market. Our products are quality-oriented, cost effective and we provide a warranty.
“Our job does not end post selling the machine. Another plus point is our after sales service and this aspect makes us stand out from the crowd. We are known for service we provide to our clients when needed.
“We have been in the market for 15 years now and we are growing strength by strength just because we don’t leave any stone unturned as far as customer’s satisfaction is concerned. There is a department for each of the vertical we handle. Let me repeat, we never compromise on service, no matter how much it costs us.”
Discussing the brands forte, “Embroidery machinery is our forte,” Rakhi gushes, “we sell most of the machines in this segment. We have machinery set ups in cities including in Banaras, Ahmedabad and Bangalore.”
Imported or indigenous? “We import all our machinery from China. We do not have any manufacturing in the country because it is not possible manufacture the kind of machinery that we get currently import. We are constantly adding new products and machinery to our portfolio.” What is your take on the competition? “Initially when we started it was difficult, but today we well settled in the market. Competition has always been there and will always be there in future too. The only difference is earlier we would feel threatened by our competitors, are out of our space.”
Where are you present, “We are well established in the Northern and Eastern regions of India. We have offices in Kolkata, Delhi and Ahemdabad too. Recently we opened an office in Jaipur.”
Demand scenario “The market is back on track. It’s comparatively better than it was a year ago when it was tough times. But now all is settled.”
What is the government’s involvement? “The steps that the government is taking is appreciable. We faced issues with reforms but the economy is getting streamlined day by day. It is expected to get better in the long term.”
What is your take on GTE? Rakhi shares his view, “This is the third day of the GTE fair and overall it has been good. Yesterday has been comparatively low in terms of footfall, but today, attendance is significant and is increasing with every passing day. “We hope for more footfall tomorrow as it is the last day of the fair. GTE has really been very productive as far as our business is concerned and there is no doubt it could have been the same for other participants too. This is the platform that helps in many ways, right from building new relations to getting acquainted with new technology, he adds.
The American Apparel & Footwear Association signed a MoU with Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production (WRAP) during AAFA’s Social Responsibility Committee meeting in Long Beach, CA. The collaborative venture will leverage the organisations’ expertise in corporate social responsibility (CSR) for the apparel and footwear industry with a focus on labour and working hours. As per the agreement, AAFA and WRAP will work together to provide industry tools, resources, and thought leadership to be delivered at AAFA committee meetings, educational events, and webinars. As a part of the agreement, WRAP will be recognised as AAFAs official CSR partner.
Rick Helfenbein, President and CEO AAFA says they are excited to enter a more formal agreement with WRAP. AAFA helps members address changing regulations and international sanctions, and also to move beyond compliance, into forward-looking approaches to social responsibility. They are looking to leverage WRAP’s extensive and unique expertise in CSR space, as they work directly with factories and value chains around the world. This new arrangement will help provide AAFA members with essential guidance on a wide range of social responsibility issues. In 2018, AAFA and WRAP will develop guidance for AAFA members on North Korean sanctions as well as developing industry best practices for working hours.
India’s woven fabric export continued to rise in December following a steep recovery in November. It was also higher than the levels two years ago. While spun yarn exports grew at a slow pace, the rise in fabric export shows a tremendous potential for export of value added products. Volumes rose 10 per cent to 397 million sq mt valued at $302 million. Cumulative export in the first nine months of 2017-18, was 3,190 million sq mt, a marginally down by 0.1 per cent as against the same period a year ago. In terms of value, woven fabric export was valued at $2,510 million (Rs 15,970 crore).
During December, 142 countries imported woven fabrics from India, spearheaded by Bangladesh and followed by Sri Lanka and the UAE. All three accounted for 33 per cent of the total woven fabric export during the month. Seven countries did not import any fabric as in previous year, while 16 countries imported fabric valued at $1 million this December. Afghanistan, Nepal and Paraguay were the fastest growing large markets for woven fabrics which accounted for 3 per cent of total export value in December.
Around 55 per cent of woven fabrics exported were made of 100 per cent cotton valued at $65 million (Rs 1,020 crore) with volumes at 190 million sq mt. The average unit price realisation was at $0.87 a sq mt, about US cents 5 more than a year ago period. Plain fabric exports accounted for 65 per cent of all types of woven fabrics exported in December 2017, up 6 per cent in volume year on year with shipment totalling 312 million sq mt worth $198 million. Bangladesh, UAE and Sri Lanka were the top markets for plain fabrics.
Denim was the second largest woven fabric exported in December with volumes increasing by a steep 30 per cent year on year in value rising 31 per cent to $31 million. They were largely imported by Bangladesh with Egypt and Sri Lanka following. Denim exports to Bangladesh alone was valued at $19 million.
Although US menswear revenues are expected to grow 5 per cent in the next 2 years, outperforming womenswear, few brands are catering to the burgeoning market on their digital platforms this was revelaed by The Dark Horse of Fashion report. The study, found a third of brands carrying both women’s and menswear did not feature any men’s products on their e-commerce homepages. A further 19 per cent demoted these products to secondary status by only showing them below the fold.
Calvin Klein was tinted as a coed brand missing a trick, prioritizing womenswear on its homepage, while men's underwear was its most viewed product page in 2017. The study also found 15 brands that did use their data to target men more precisely in this way saw significantly higher open rates in emails featuring menswear-specific subjects, suggesting a clear marketing benefit.
This could go some way to explaining the bias identified by Zine's survey, as, by this logic, menswear brands should be aiming to coordinate a smaller pool of more highly influential digital promoters. In a market increasingly dominated by e-commerce and digital marketing, fashion brands carrying menswear would do well to take heed of L2’s findings as men’s apparel and accessories come into their own in an industry that is traditionally female focused.
It is a shift which is being reflected across all levels of the industry with Nordstrom gearing up for the opening of its first men’s flagship in New York and menswear labels outnumbering women’s wear in the short list for last year’s LVMH Prize. The increased importance of men’s fashion is even affecting the catwalk as more and more brands choose to host coed runways.
