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Coimbatore-based KPR Mill is looking at aggressive expansion with a focus on the garmenting sector. The company, since its inception in 1996, had an integrated facility with combined capacities in spinning, knitting, processing and garmenting. As of now KPR has 10 state-of-the-art production facilities at: Sathyamangalam, Neelambur, Arasur, Karumathampatti, Tirupur and Perundurai in Tamil Nadu. Over the ye ars, its spindleage has increased to 3.54 lakh spindles from 12,000 at the beginning. However, in the last year KPR has stopped expansion in the spinning space and started focusing on garmenting and knitting.


It expanded its Arasur garment facility, upgrading capacity by 10 million pieces with an outlay of Rs 25 crores last year. It also took up greenfield expansion of Thekkalur at an investment of Rs 75 crores and strengthened its garmenting capacity from 37 million pieces a year to 59 million.

The company has been exporting 30 per cent of its products to international markets. Europe is a major market, followed by the US and Australia. It would like to focus more on the US and other markets such as Brazil and Japan going forward. The total garmenting capacity has gone up from 37 million pieces a year to 59 million pieces. KPR also has a 93 MW of green energy of which 63 MW is from the windmills and 30 MW from co-gen, meeting 75 per cent of its power requirements.

KPR’ net profit was up 28 per cent at the end of the first quarter of the fiscal 2015-16 as against the corresponding quarter of the earlier year. Revenues shot up five per cent and garment turnover was up 19 per cent.

www.kprmilllimited.com/

Work attire continues to evolve over the past few decades and casual Fridays have turned into casual every day. Yet, retailers are cautioned by experts that this is not so much about dressing down as dressing comfortably.

Roseanne Morrison, Fashion Director, The Doneger Group says that there has been a big shift. Women wear rompers, short sets, dresses, and skater skirts, which are paired with sneakers. For Fall, they will pick darker, dressy denims. People will pick a flared leg that looks a bit sexier and dressier, so one can be dressy yet comfortable.

Thus, stores have to work harder to provide more khakis for men and dresses for women. Knowing the core customer helps, also the types of type of industries they work in and then provide assortments that reflect those preferences—however, comfort remains at the top.

Tom Julian, men’s Fashion Director, The Doneger Group, says that what used to be casual business has now evolved into ‘creative workplace’. He adds that from speaking to marketing firms and creative tech companies, the biggest change in workplace attire is self-individuality and comfort. Today, millennials do not want to change outfits from work to play to time out. Tailored separates have been accepted by young men and these can be seen in major stores and global chains, Julian states.

According to the ‘Monitor’ survey, while women, for long have been piecing together their wardrobes, the post-recession business environment inspired men to shun their khakis and golf shirts for tailored separates. Today, 66 per cent of both, men and women buy separate pieces from different stores, rather than buy an entire outfit from one place.

Target Corporation (TGT) Q2 sales increased by 2.8 per cent, driven by better-than-expected increase in comparable sales. Comparable sales in style (which includes the majority of the retailer’s apparel categories), baby, kids and wellness grew by more than 7 per cent in the quarter, three times faster than the company average.

Comparable sales was four to five per cent in both home and apparel categories, with apparel showing the strongest performance in baby, kids and women’s ready-to-wear. Digital channel sales grew by 30 per cent and contributed 0.6 percentage points to comparable sales growth. About 80 per cent of digital channel sales growth was driven by home and apparel. One of Target’s key strategic initiatives is to become a leader in digital, since it plays such a major role in driving store traffic.

Gross margin rose by 50 basis points to 30.9 per cent of revenue, reflecting heightened promotional markdowns in the second quarter of 2014 and a favorable merchandise mix in 2015. Net income increased by 221 per cent, up 20.6 per cent from the second quarter of 2014.

The company is pleased with the second quarter financial results, as traffic growth, strong sales in the signature categories and continued expense discipline drove better-than-expected profitability.

World cotton output in 2015-16 is forecast at 109 million bales, 2.5 million bales below last month's projection and 10 million bales below 2014-15. Global cotton area in 2015-16 is seven per cent below 2014-15. The 2015-16 production is projected below consumption and would be the smallest crop since 2009-10. For India, which is expected to be the largest producing country, cotton crop is projected at 29 million bales in 2015-16, about two per cent below last season’s 29.5 million bales. With a normal monsoon this season, a seven per cent reduction in area is partially offset by a higher yield expectation.

In China, production is forecast at 26 million bales in, four million bales below last season, with fewer incentives to plant cotton resulting in a reduced area of nearly 18 per cent in 2015-16.

Pakistan's crop is forecast is at 10.2 million bales, nearly four per cent below 2014-15, while area is expected to rise two per cent, with reduction in yield, reducing Pakistan’s production by 400,000 bales in 2015-16. Brazil’s crop is forecasted to remain the same in 2015-16 at seven million bales, as area and yield are projected to equal that of 2014-15. However, India’s exports in 2015-16 are expected to expand significantly.

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Kenya is fast emerging as a strong apparel sourcing destination for the West. This was confirmed by a McKinsey & Company’s study which revealed Kenya will be the next hub for apparel sourcing in East Africa. The renewal of African Growth and Opportunity Act (Agoa), the US Trade Act, has significantly enhanced market access to America for qualifying Sub-Saharan African (SSA) countries. Also, some steps taken by the government has also led to the rise in interest in Kenya as a potential apparel sourcing destination. After visiting garment factories, interviewing players, including manufacturers and buyers, and analysing market data, the authors arrived at this conclusion. Also, a third survey was conducted of 40 apparel chief purchasing officers (CPOs), where they were asked a series of questions that were focused on East Africa.

Kenya apparel sourcing 2

Among the CPOs, Ethiopia emerged as the most sought after nation and turned out to be the most attractive for international buyers of apparels. Out of the 40 CPOs, 13 said they would start sourcing from Kenya, five said they would increase the value of apparels they sourced from Kenya. Another 28 said they would start sourcing from Ethiopia and eight said they would increase the value of apparel sourced from there.

East Africa emerges strong

The survey ‘East Africa: The Next Hub for Apparel Sourcing’, shows Ethiopia has cost advantages, whereas Kenya has higher production efficiency. Mauritius is third, and 13 respondents said that they would start sourcing apparels from there, while another three said they would increase their value of apparels. Lesotho, Madagascar, Uganda, Tanzania, Botswana, Egypt, South Africa and Swaziland were the other African countries that are emerging.

At present, Kenya’s apparel industry specialises in supplying high volume bulk basics such as trousers, as per the report. Almost 92 per cent of Kenya’s apparel exports went to the US in 2013. Over $400 million worth of apparels that includes jeans and towels consumed in the US are manufactured in Kenya’s Export Processing Zone (EPZ), at present. According to Adan Mohamed, the Industrialisation Cabinet Secretary, this is projected to many fold. Also, in recent years, due to foreign direct investments from Asia and Middle East as well as support from the EPZ developed by the Kenyan government, the capacity of Kenya’s garment factories has grown.

Future goals for the sector

The revival of textile and leather industries is one of Jubilee government’s price focus. This will be help take advantage of Agoa and global markets. The government intends to invest in industrial and enterprise skills to sustain these industries. Besides, they would be initiating a targeted approach to identify potential international investors for these priority industries.

With economic liberalisation in 1990, there was an influx of textile goods in country. Also, the average capacity utilisation in textile mills went down by almost 50 per cent. Once the fifth largest forex earner, the textile sector’s contribution to GDP dropped. Agoa Act though, offered government support and several prospects, which helped the industry. According to the McKinsey report, if they wish to attract international buyers, both Kenya and Ethiopia have to address compliance and risk issues. And as the CPOs surveyed pointed out, Kenya needs to address corruption, high crime rates and social compliance. 

cotton

Global cotton prices have fallen over the past months however, NY Futures sharply reversed after the release of this month's USDA report. Prices for the most actively traded December futures declined slowly but steadily throughout the month of July. In August, prices broke out of the range between 63 and 68 cents/lb for the first time since mid-March by falling through support near 63 cents/lb. However, following the release of this month's USDA report, which featured large downward revisions to figures for US production and ending stocks in 2015/16, prices rebounded from levels near 62 cents/lb back to those near 65 cents/lb.

USDA report indicates price recovery

cotton1-672x372

The A Index followed NY futures lower throughout July and August and dropped to values below 70 cents/lb for the first time since April. The Chinese government facilitated the largest percentage decrease in the value of the RMB relative to the US dollar since 1994 early this week. The shift in the exchange rate lowered the value of the CC Index in dollar terms slightly from 96 to 93 cents/lb. In local terms, the CC Index has been steady at values near 13,150 RMB/ton.

Indian spot prices for the Shankar-6 variety moved marginally lower over the past month. In international terms, values declined from 69 to 67 cents/lb. In local terms, prices declined from Rs 34,400 and Rs 33,700 per candy. Pakistani spot prices also decreased slightly. In international terms, values fell from 56 cents/lb to 53 cents/lb. In local terms, prices decreased from Pakistani Rs 4,700 to 4,500 per maund.

Price outlook for 2015/16

The response by NY futures to the latest USDA release was likely driven by the substantial changes made to figures related to the US. It is not uncommon for there to be large revisions to US production estimates in reports released in August. This is because there is a change in methodology used by the USDA between the July and August releases.

From May, when the first complete estimates for upcoming crop year are released, to July, the USDA relies on commodity analysts and statisticians to develop forecasts. In August, and throughout the harvest period, data gathered from field surveys conducted by observers across the cotton belt are used to generate yield and production forecasts. This year, due to heavy rainfall in many cotton growing states, there was considerable uncertainty related to acreage planted, abandonment, and yield. As a result, the change in methods could have been expected to result in important revisions to existing estimates.

This month, the US planted acreage number was lowered 100,000 acres nationally from 9 to 8.9 million. Abandonment, which refers to acreage planted but not harvested due to poor crop conditions, was increased from 500,000 acres to 1.0 million acres. The national yield forecast was lowered 27 lbs/acre (3 per cent). In combination, these changes generated the 1.4 million bale (10 per cent) decrease in US harvest expectations this month.

Accompanying the reduction to the US harvest estimate were changes to US export numbers and ending stocks. A 200,000 bale increase from 11.0 to 11.2 million to the 2014/15 export figure contributed to a 500,000 bale reduction to 2014/15 stocks. For 2015/16, the US export estimate was lowered 800,000 bales, from 10.8 to 10.0 million and was a result of the smaller production number. The implied tightness in US supplies could emerge as a factor supportive of prices in 2015/16.

 

www.usda.gov

The China Keqiao International Textile Expo 2015 (Autumn) is scheduled to take place from October 16-19, 2015 at the China Textile City International Convention & Exhibition Center in Keqiao district, Shaoxing city, Zhejiang province. The exhibition area will spread over 34,000 sq. mt. and the expo will feature 1,400 international stands. The expo is very popular and though more than 90 per cent of the stands were booked, many textile enterprises are still looking to register.

The reason for the expo’s popularity, is that since its foundation, the Keqiao Textile Expo has stood out from fabric shows everywhere in the country. The expo has become one of the top three along with the Shanghai Fabric Show and Fabric Show in Canton Fair.

The show works as a meeting ground for exhibitors and companies looking to source. Also, the solid industry chain and improved industry base works as a strong support for the expo, say experts. Moreover, they feel it has some advantages over the Fabric Show in Canton Fair and Shanghai Fabric Show. The Keqiao Textile Expo’s outstanding feature is the textile cluster production area, with convenience for follow-up visit and cooperation.

Pakistan Hosiery Manufacturers and Exporters Association (PHMA) is opposing the government’s move to impose import duty on yarn. The move aimed at protecting the spinning sector, but the association believes this would have a negative impact on value-added textile sector.

Usman Jawaad, Chairman, North Zone, Pakistan Hosiery Manufacturers and Exporters Association (PHMA) strongly opposed the move and said that PHMA stands with Pakistan Readymade Garments Manufacturers (PRGMEA) and Exporters Association, Pakistan Apparel Forum (PAF) and all other business associations, who had already expressed their displeasure about the proposed move.

He said that value-added textiles in general and the apparel sector in particular were under severe pressure due to fierce competition in the international market from countries like Bangladesh, Vietnam and Cambodia. He further added that squeezing the apparel manufacturers would in turn lead to a decline in export earnings along with unemployment.

Apparel manufacturer say the All Pakistan Textile Mills Association’s (APTMA) demand to impose five per cent duty on yarn import exposed their support of a free market. The value-added textile sector, in 2010, was faced with cotton yarn shortage due to short cotton crop. However, the spinners’ lobby opposed restrictions on yarn exports. The APTMA also opposed the Indian government’s move when it imposed restriction on cotton exports to Pakistan. Now, the very people were advocating a ban on import of yarn.

Jawaad added that as the apparel industry adds more value to Pakistan’s cotton than any other segment of the textile industry, it deserves to be safeguarded of its business environment. The PHMA thus demanded that any unilateral policy be avoided and overall national interest should be foremost and the main objective while drafting the country’s policies.

Planet Textiles Summit on textiles and sustainability is scheduled for the October 14 in Shanghai, alongside Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics, (scheduled from October 13-15), and is organised by Messe Frankfurt. The Planet Textiles Summit will touch key topics such as tough new environmental legislation in the Chinese textile sector and how it is being enforced. One of the speakers is, Zhao Lin of Solidaridad who will highlight the work of the Better Mill Initiative in China. The three-year Better Mill Initiative (BMI), in partnership with H&M and other major international retailers was launched by Solidaridad.

Besides the summit, the fair will also feature an increasingly popular ‘All About Sustainability’ zone. This was created in response to demand, from both Chinese and global textiles industry. This year’s zone is bigger by 30 per cent, and features three sections: an educational zone, and ecoBoutique display and a seminar area.

Wendy Wen, Senior General Manager of Messe Frankfurt (HK), said sustainability is a major issue in China since the past few years. It’s not just the government and the textile industry that are concerned with this issue, but even the consumers are concerned, as they have become more conscious of protecting the environment. She added that both, the Planet Textiles Summit and All About Sustainability were a response to the increasing interest in China.

The summit as well as the fair will take place at the newly built National Convention and Exhibition Center, Shanghai, China. Planet Textiles 2015 will take place in English, and have simultaneous translations in Chinese.

World cotton output in 2015-16 is forecast at 109 million bales, 2.5 million bales below last month's projection and 10 million bales below 2014-15. Global cotton area in 2015-16 is seven per cent below 2014-15. The 2015-16 production is projected below consumption and would be the smallest crop since 2009-10. For India, which is expected to be the largest producing country, cotton crop is projected at 29 million bales in 2015-16, about two per cent below last season’s 29.5 million bales. With a normal monsoon this season, a seven per cent reduction in area is partially offset by a higher yield expectation.

In China, production is forecast at 26 million bales in, four million bales below last season, with fewer incentives to plant cotton resulting in a reduced area of nearly 18 per cent in 2015-16.

Pakistan's crop is forecast is at 10.2 million bales, nearly four per cent below 2014-15, while area is expected to rise two per cent, with reduction in yield, reducing Pakistan’s production by 400,000 bales in 2015-16. Brazil’s crop is forecasted to remain the same in 2015-16 at seven million bales, as area and yield are projected to equal that of 2014-15. However, India’s exports in 2015-16 are expected to expand significantly.

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