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The future of recycled cotton a circular and sustainable textile industry

The global textile industry is undergoing a significant shift towards sustainable practices. One key area of focus is recycled cotton fiber, a market poised for significant growth in the coming years.

The global recycled cotton fiber market is estimated to have reached a value of $1.2 billion in 2023 as per industry reports. It's projected to move ahead at a CAGR of over 15 per cent from 2023-28 period, reaching $2.5 billion by 2028. This exponential growth reflects the increasing adoption of sustainable practices by textile manufacturers and growing consumer awareness about the environmental impact of the fashion industry.

Production and consumption trends

Data suggests a positive trend in both production and consumption of recycled cotton fiber. Global production of recycled cotton fibers is steadily increasing, albeit lagging slightly behind consumption. This indicates a growing demand that the market is striving to meet.

Table: Global production and consumption of recycled cotton fibers

Year

Production (mn tons)

Consumption (mn tons)

2020

0.35

0.28

2021

0.42

0.34

2022 (Est.)

0.51

0.4

Asia Pacific leads the pack, accounting for over 60 per cent of global production. China is the undisputed leader in production. India too has emerged as a major player. China boasts of a robust infrastructure for textile waste collection and processing, making it the world's largest producer of recycled cotton fibers. Meanwhile, countries like Italy, Germany, and Spain are actively investing in innovative recycling technologies, propelling them to the forefront of European production. The US is witnessing significant growth in the recycled cotton fiber sector, driven by rising consumer eco-consciousness and government support for sustainable initiatives.

On the consumption side, the story unfolds differently. Europe is the frontrunner, driven by stringent environmental regulations and a high level of consumer awareness regarding sustainability. Brands across the continent are actively incorporating recycled cotton into their product lines. North America displays a growing appetite for recycled cotton, with major fashion retailers and brands embracing eco-conscious practices. Asia Pacific, meanwhile a production powerhouse, has room for growth in terms of consumption as consumer education on sustainable fashion picks up pace. In fact, this region is expected to witness the fastest growth in recycled cotton consumption in the coming years, with a growing middle class and rising awareness about environmental issues.

The growing demand has seen several companies now moving in to manufacture recycled cotton. For example, Recover, has emerged as a leading manufacturer of recycled cotton fibers. They exemplify the industry's commitment to sustainability. Their innovative technology transforms pre-consumer and post-consumer textile waste into high-quality recycled cotton, minimizing environmental impact. Recover's success story underscores the immense potential of this sector. Similarly, Everlane, this US-based clothing brand champions transparency and sustainability. Their transparency in sourcing and production processes resonates with environmentally conscious consumers. Their ReCotton collection utilizes pre-consumer waste to create high-quality garments.

Challenges and opportunities

However despite its growing popularity recycled cotton manufacturers face several challenges.

Limited supply: Currently, the supply of recycled cotton fiber lags behind demand. This presents an opportunity for companies to invest in infrastructure and innovation to increase recycling capacity.

Sorting and contamination: Effectively sorting different fiber types and minimizing contamination in recycled cotton streams are crucial for maintaining fiber quality. New technologies like near-infrared spectroscopy offer promising solutions.

Quality concerns: Maintaining consistent fiber quality across batches remains a challenge.

Consumer awareness: While awareness of recycled cotton is growing, there's a need for further education on its benefits and quality. Collaboration between brands and retailers can bridge this gap.

Moving ahead, investing in innovative mechanical and chemical recycling technologies will be key to scaling up production and improving fiber quality. Also, developing efficient systems for sorting and collecting pre- and post-consumer textile waste is essential to ensure a steady supply of high-quality feedstock. Collaboration between brands, retailers, recyclers, and policymakers is crucial to build a robust and sustainable recycled cotton ecosystem.

The recycled cotton fiber market is on an exciting path. By addressing the challenges and capitalizing on the opportunities, the industry can play a significant role in creating a more sustainable and circular textile industry. As consumer demand for eco-friendly products continues to rise, recycled cotton fiber is poised to become a mainstream material in the years to come.

 

Texworld Paris Global fashion hub

 

From July 1 to 3, 2024, the Paris Expo Porte de Versailles will host the highly anticipated Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris, Europe's leading platform for textile and apparel sourcing. This three-day event is set to attract over a thousand exhibitors, offering a rich global selection for fashion brands ranging from ready-to-wear to luxury.

A new summer edition in Paris

This summer edition of Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris consolidates Messe Frankfurt France's entire textile and apparel offerings under one roof. The event includes Texworld for fabrics and trims, Apparel Sourcing for finished apparel and fashion accessories, Avantex for innovative and sustainable fashion solutions, and Leatherworld for the leather industry, covering everything from raw materials to finished products.

Global representation

This year, exhibitors from 26 countries will converge in Paris, showcasing the diversity of the global market. Key sourcing nations such as China, India, Turkey, Korea, Taiwan, Pakistan, and Bangladesh will be represented, alongside other countries like Hong Kong, Thailand, Indonesia, Rwanda, South Africa, Ethiopia, and the Netherlands. National pavilions will highlight the unique offerings from countries like Turkey, supported by the Istanbul Chamber of Commerce (ITO), and Korea, represented by the National Union of Textile Manufacturers (KOFOTI). Indian manufacturers will also showcase their expertise under Texprocil, reflecting the country's strategic importance in the textile industry.

Highlights and innovations

Taiwanese companies, supported by the Taiwan Textile Federation (TTF), will present sustainable fabrics ideal for activewear. These manufacturers will be featured in the Econogy Finder, Messe Frankfurt's sustainability initiative. The Denim Village, will span nearly 1,000 meter square, featuring 30 international exhibitors. Highlight Denim, curated by artistic directors Louis Gerin and Gregory Lamaud, will showcase standout products.

Leatherworld will feature approximately 20 exhibitors hailing from South Africa, Pakistan, China, Taiwan, and Italy. The new Leather Trend feature will present current leather market trends in partnership with Edizioni AF and the Arsutoria School design center. This area will include mini-conferences on diverse materials used in shoe and bag manufacturing, offering a technical and comprehensive view of the leather industry.

Expanded offerings for Apparel Sourcing

Apparel Sourcing will welcome over 500 manufacturers from traditional sourcing countries and emerging markets like Rwanda, Myanmar, and Ethiopia. India, making a significant return with over 50 garment manufacturers, underscores its crucial role in global textile sourcing. The Near Sourcing Hub will feature around 50 companies from Portugal, Turkey, Serbia, and Morocco, linking physical samples to detailed digital information via QR codes and the B2B platform Foursource.

Concept store products and the designer hub

This year, Apparel Sourcing is expanding to include new categories like jewelry and bags, reflecting the trend of retailers broadening their brand territories. A 300 meter square "Chinese Brands Gallery" will showcase 30 manufacturers aiming to penetrate the European market directly.

The Avantex sector will feature over 20 suppliers offering innovative solutions for sustainable fashion, with a new Designer Hub to foster creativity and collaboration. This hub will support initiatives by stylists like Jean-Luc François, Maeva Elfassi, and Rozz Connor, aiming to bridge the gap between designers and buyers.

Yarn expo and the Avantex Fashion pitch

A new pavilion dedicated to yarns, organized in partnership with Yarn Expo from Shanghai, will showcase cutting-edge products from China, India, Pakistan, and Taiwan. Visitors can explore innovations like the Greencell yarn range from AceGreen and recycled polyester yarns from Suzhou Make It Fiber.

The Avantex Fashion Pitch competition will highlight innovative fashion and textile projects, with the winner receiving a "Start-Up" booth for the next edition, a €2,000 prize, and a one-year incubation period at the IFA school's Foundry. Last year’s winner, AwareTM, will return to exhibit its blockchain-based traceability solution.

Conclusion

Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris promises a comprehensive and dynamic experience for industry professionals, with a focus on sustainability, innovation, and global collaboration. From exploring the latest trends in fabrics, leather, and yarns to engaging with new concept store products and sustainable solutions, attendees will have the opportunity to discover and connect with key players shaping the future of the fashion industry.

  

Archroma, a global leader in specialty chemicals, has introduced Color Management+, an enhanced color design and development solution for textile and fashion brands and mills. This new system aims to improve both economic and environmental sustainability by offering the industry’s largest off-the-shelf color atlas, advanced design tools, and customized services for rapid color selection and creation.

Color Management + integrates Archroma’s Super Systems+ to ensure consistent and accurate color reproduction with reduced environmental impact. With over 5,700 unique colors in the Color Atlas by Archroma, designers can access a comprehensive physical and online library, or create custom colors. The solution also includes technical and economic feasibility data for each color standard, adhering to the ZDHC MRSL Level 3 sustainability standards.

By providing clear color communication and achievable criteria at the selection phase, Color Management + helps mills reduce excessive lab dipping, shorten approval times, and improve first-time-approval rates. The system supports bulk production with durable colors and intelligent effects, enhancing environmental impact, eliminating harmful chemicals, and adding value to the end product.

Supported by Archroma’s One Way+ Impact Calculator, SIP, and Safe Edge+ compliance-data platform, Color Management + aligns with Archroma’s “Planet Conscious+” vision, driving the textile and fashion industry towards more sustainable practices.

  

Being held from June 04-08, 2024 at the Tuyap Fair and Congress Center in Turkey, the International Textile Machinery Exhibition (ITM) 2024 brings together nearly 1,300 domestic and foreign companies and company representatives from more than 70 countries. It also attracts textile investors from countries such as Pakistan, Uzbekistan, India and Egypt. It provides world-class textile machinery manufacturers and leaders an opportunity to launch their latest products.

Focusing on the motto, ‘Discover the Future,’ the exhibition provides exhibitors an opportunity to network with diverse visitors and boost their business volume.

Being held in partnership with Tüyap Tüm Fuarcilik Yapim Inc and Teknik Fairs Inc in cooperation with Textile Machinery and Accessories Industrialists Association (TEMSAD), ITM 2024 also facilitates interactions between company owners and experts on new technologies to be used in their factories; develop their products and direct their investments.

Visitors to the ITM 2024 Exhibition will be able to learn about every field of textile from weaving to knitting, from yarn to digital printing, and from finishing to denim will discover innovative, nature-protecting, pioneering technologies in digitalisation for a sustainable future.

One of the focal points of ITM 2023 will be digitalisation, artificial Intelligence, and automation. The exhibition will showcase machines and equipment designed to reduce environmental impact and manufactured from sustainable materials.

ITM 2024 will be held alongside Hightex 2024 International Technical Textiles and Nonwovens Exhibition. This exhibition will accelerate development in the technical textile sector by showcasing nonwoven products and raw materials used in production of technical textiles.

  

A Japanese operator of internet services for the online shopping and clothing industry, Makip has launched a new advanced online sizing technology known as FaceChange A development of Makip’s highly accurate online sizing technology, Unisize, FaceChange leverages AI to offer precise online sizing recommendations.

To use this technology, users need to upload a photo of their face, which is then placed on the model displaying the clothing, helping them visualise the fit more accurately. This approach not only personalises the shopping experience but also significantly boosts conversion rates by over four times.

Aligning with the industry’s shift towards sustainability, this technology minimises the carbon footprint associated with multiple shipments and returns. It enhances customer satisfaction and loyalty by ensuring they receive the correct size on their first purchase. Retailers using FaceChange have reported significant boosts in sales and reductions in return rates. The personalised experience provided by the technology fosters a stronger connection between the consumer and the brand, leading to higher levels of customer satisfaction and repeat business.

Incorporating more sophisticated AI and machine learning algorithms, digital sizing technologies are poised to evolve in future. They could offer more immersive and accurate fitting experiences by integrating technologies such as augmented reality (AR) and virtual reality (VR). This will help transform the online retail landscape, providing consumers with enhanced tools to make informed purchasing decisions.

 

Cotton in Crisis MSP woes and seed price controls stifle industry growth

 

India's cotton sector, once a global leader, is struggling to hold onto its position. Policy decisions like the Minimum Support Price (MSP) for cotton and the Cotton Seeds Price (Control) Order, 2015 (CSPCO) are creating a tangled mess for the industry.

How MSP is sowing trouble

The government sets an MSP for raw cotton (kapas) to shield farmers from price fluctuations. However, this seemingly helpful policy becomes a double-edged sword when coupled with a Maximum Sale Price (MSP) for cotton seeds. This squeezes profit margins for seed companies, discouraging investment in crucial research and development (R&D) for high-yielding varieties.

The MSP for seeds acts as a disincentive for seed companies, say experts. Investment in R&D for better seeds suffers, hindering India’s ability to compete in the global market. We need cutting-edge seed technology to thrive.

Production in decline, imports on the rise

India's cotton production peaked at a staggering 390 lakh bales in 2013-14. Since then, it has witnessed a concerning decline of nearly 100 lakh bales annually. This shortfall is forcing textile mills to rely heavily on imports, which reached a value of Rs 10,353.96 crore in 2021-22. This import dependence weakens India's cotton export potential.

Is the CSPCO stifling innovation?

The CSPCO, by controlling seed prices, is seen as a potential roadblock to innovation. The order discourages companies from developing new Bt cotton varieties that can combat the ever-evolving pest landscape, explain experts, a seed industry representative. However, complete deregulation of the CSPCO raises concerns of exploitation by seed companies. Some farmer associations fear that without regulations, seed prices could skyrocket.

A market-driven approach

Countries like China and the US have adopted successful models that India can learn from. China's market-driven approach, coupled with strong intellectual property (IP) protection, fosters a thriving seed development ecosystem. This has resulted in high-yielding, pest-resistant varieties that give them a competitive edge.

Experts suggest a nuanced solution: delisting cotton seeds from the Essential Commodities Act (ECA) 1955. This would remove central control over seed pricing, paving the way for a market-driven system. Additionally, states could introduce regulations to ensure fair seed prices for farmers.

The revival of India's cotton sector hinges on a multi-pronged approach. The government should incentivize research in new technologies and promote Integrated Resistance Management (IRM) practices to combat pests. By fostering innovation, ensuring fair prices for farmers, and promoting a globally competitive seed industry, India can reclaim its rightful place as a cotton powerhouse.

  

At Drupa in Dusseldorf, BW Converting unveiled a fresh branding identity following its incorporation of leading print and industrial technology company Baldwin into its portfolio. Renamed from BW Converting Solutions, the company boasts a formidable lineup including Paper Converting Machine Company (PCMC), Winkler+Dünnebier (W+D), Hudson-Sharp, STAX Technologies, and Northern Engraving and Machine Company.

The rebrand emphasizes BW Converting's commitment to societal betterment beyond factory floors. Simon Blake, VP of Marketing, articulates their mission to bridge knowledge gaps and facilitate positive change. The new branding aims for a visually cohesive architecture, showcasing the company's comprehensive capabilities.

Stan Blakney, Group President, underscores the strategic fusion of knowledge, scale, and global reach across six robust product brands to support customer growth. This rebranding initiative aims to provide customers with clarity and recognition, facilitating easier access to BW Converting's diverse technologies and expertise.

  

The ASEAN International Fashion Week (AIFW) is set to make its triumphant return to Singapore from June 7th to 9th, 2024, with an innovative collaboration between Epson and the ASEAN Fashion Designers Showcase (AFDS). Hosted at Singapore's iconic ArtScience Museum, this year's event promises a fusion of high fashion and technological innovation.

Showcasing a diverse range of styles from avant-garde to haute couture, AIFW 2024 aims to push the boundaries of fashion while championing sustainability and circular fashion practices on a global scale. The three-day extravaganza will feature up to 40 international fashion designers from over 15 countries, including 11 ASEAN designers partnering with Epson to create sustainable fashion using cutting-edge digital textile printing technology.

Beyond the runway, AIFW will host a panel discussion on sustainability in the fashion and technology industries on June 8th. Led by industry experts such as Desmond Gay, Regional Manager of Epson Southeast Asia, and Hayden Ng, President and Founder of AFDS AIFW, the discussion promises valuable insights into the future of sustainable fashion.

  

Lenzing Group, a prominent supplier of regenerated cellulose fibers, clinched the prestigious Vienna Stock Exchange Vonix Sustainability Award, securing the top spot in the 'Industrials' category. This accolade, a testament to Lenzing's exceptional sustainability performance on the capital market, underscores its commitment to fostering sustainable practices within the textile and nonwovens sectors.

Christian Skilich, a member of Lenzing's Management Board, expressed gratitude for the recognition, emphasizing Lenzing's unwavering dedication to catalyzing the shift from a linear to a circular economy model in the textile industry.

Renowned environmental organizations and rating agencies have lauded Lenzing's sustainability endeavors. For three consecutive years, Lenzing secured a coveted spot on the 'A list' across all categories by CDP, a global non-profit environmental organization.

Additionally, Lenzing maintained platinum status in the EcoVadis CSR rating, ranking among the top one percent of companies evaluated worldwide. Furthermore, MSCI conferred an 'AA' rating on Lenzing for the third consecutive year, positioning the company within the top eight percent of rated peers.

These accolades underscore Lenzing's steadfast commitment to sustainability and its leading role in driving environmental stewardship within its industry.

  

Fashion for Good Museum, in reflecting on its impactful journey, celebrates achievements in transforming perspectives on clothing and inspiring sustainable change in the fashion industry. With 115,000 visitors, including 8,000 students from 200 schools, the museum curated 13 exhibitions and hosted over 75 events. Alongside launching four educational programs, Fashion for Good reached current and future generations, evidenced by its 250,000 social media followers and 15,000 newsletter subscribers.

Albert Brenninkmeijer, chairman of the board, notes the museum's mission to spark a global movement towards sustainable fashion, aiming to inspire and educate visitors. With an earned media value of over 46 million Euros, Fashion for Good's influence has been substantial. Brenninkmeijer envisions the museum's legacy enduring, motivating others to challenge the fashion industry's status quo for the planet's betterment.

Reflecting on the museum's journey, six key lessons emerged: First, there is a recognition of a broader shift towards sustainability within museums. Second, cultural institutions play a crucial role in driving societal change through storytelling. Third, embracing organizational limitations can lead to innovation. Fourth, understanding and expanding core audience engagement is essential for sustainability initiatives. Fifth, measuring impact presents challenges for socially-driven organizations, necessitating clear success criteria. Lastly, defining sustainability within an organizational context is fundamental for sustainability efforts.

As the museum transitions into a versatile space integrating various functions, Fashion for Good remains committed to revolutionizing the fashion industry. With a renewed strategy, the museum intensifies efforts in brand engagement, supplier integration, financing, and impact assessment through its Innovation Platform. This strategic evolution highlights Fashion for Good's dedication to fostering collaboration among sustainable fashion changemakers.

Katrin Ley, Managing Director, expresses pride in the museum's achievements and its enduring legacy. Despite physical doors closing, the spirit of Fashion for Good lives on, ensuring its vision for a more sustainable fashion industry inspires future generations.

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