FW
According to a study by consultancy Bain, casual luxury is driving global sales of high-end apparel, footwear and handbags as big-spending consumers are opting for popular choices in T-shirts, sneakers and rubber sliders.
This trend of casual fashion is driven by Millennials, with help also from their comfort-seeking parents and the next generation of consumers, teens.
It is helping boost sales of personal luxury items including apparel, footwear and handbags, to upwards of 280 billion euros (329 billion), up 8 percent from 260 billion euros in 2017.
While a strong euro is penalizing sales to tourists in Europe, local consumers are filling the void to keep the market steady with a projected growth of 2-4 percent.
Younger consumers who had long been detached from luxury are now buying individual elements that appeal to them.
The demand for casual and street wear gives the luxury producers a new creative outlet — such as luxury Birkenstock-style footwear. And it is also giving household names like Fila, Nike, Adidas and Birkenstock more access to big-spending consumers of luxury goods, D’Arpizio said.
Hubbub has launched a campaign which is seeking to achieve the same kind of media exposure for textile microfiber pollution as has been received by single-use plastics and wet wipes.
The campaign is also looking to educate consumers on how to combat this type of microfiber pollution through changing domestic laundry practices and taking a different approach to the apparel they buy.
Hubbub is a non-profit organisation which promotes environmental causes. it will use the latest scientific research – which is, as yet, at a very early stage – to create numerous campaigns encouraging people to engage with the environmental impact of clothes, helping them to play an active role in reducing microplastics.
The textile microfiber pollution problem has garnered an increasing amount of media attention over recent months. In the UK, the focus seems to be shifting toward this particular area of marine pollution.
Hubbub includes reference to the fact that microfiber shedding is not exclusive to synthetic apparel.
The campaign includes guidelines for consumers like choosing clothes which are more durable; washing clothes only when needed since microfibers are released in the wash.
The campaign is supported by The Campaign for Wool, an organisation representing an industry which uses the issue of microfiber pollution to promote the virtues of its natural fiber.
"As per the European Clothing Action Plan, Europeans consumed over 6.4 million ton of clothing in 2017. France alone discards 600,000 ton of clothing and accessories per year, reveals a case study by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, of which only a quarter is collected in recycling bins or charity shops. Under the country’s circular economy roadmap, lawmakers are planning to impose a ban on unsold clothing just the same way it passed a law preventing supermarkets from throwing away or destroying unsold food two years back. With the Prime Minister Édouard Philippe at the helm, by 2019 new regulations or incentives would prohibit brands from discarding unsold clothing into landfills or through incineration, instead requiring sustainable measures like recycling or donating to charity shops."
France has been leading the eco-friendly countries’ race globally. From a solar-powered road to up cycled installations, the country has continuously found creative ways to make environmentalism its mission. Following in the footsteps of a 2015 food waste law, the French government has turned its attention to textiles, making it illegal for retailers to throw away unsold clothing.
As per the European Clothing Action Plan, Europeans consumed over 6.4 million ton of clothing in 2017. France alone discards 600,000 ton of clothing and accessories per year, reveals a case study by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, of which only a quarter is collected in recycling bins or charity shops. Under the country’s circular economy roadmap, lawmakers are planning to impose a ban on unsold clothing just the same way it passed a law preventing supermarkets from throwing away or destroying unsold food two years back. With the Prime Minister Édouard Philippe at the helm, by 2019 new regulations or incentives would prohibit brands from discarding unsold clothing into landfills or through incineration, instead requiring sustainable measures like recycling or donating to charity shops.
The initiative is a part of the proposed Circular Economy Roadmap, which outlines 50 measures for France to become a circular, sustainable economy —
one that moves away from a linear ‘take, make, dispose’ model towards a model of restoration and regeneration. The details of the entire move are yet to be outlined, according to legislators, it may include potential tax breaks for companies that re-use or recycle clothing, rather than dump them in a landfill, thereby linking sustainable practices with profit. Regardless, it is not likely to be a fully-fledged law, but rather an incentivised proposal. Moreover, it would also include potential tax breaks for companies that re-use or recycle clothing. Francois Souchet, lead of the Circular Fibres Initiative at the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, stated now is the time for the fashion industry to ensure their products are used more. Whether it’s through pressure from legislators or consumers, a lot of signals say the time is right for the industry to rethink their business model.
Ways to achieve sustainability
The Ellen MacArthur Foundation, which worked with the French government on the scheme, outlines three areas of action that brands can take. First, set up new business models that move away from a classic retail model. Second, innovate and use recyclable materials. Third, make clothes to be made again by incorporating recycling into the design process. On this move, French luxury house Chanel has stated it avoids (the practice of disposing off unsold clothing) and does everything possible to eradicate it. Chanel’s strategy of producing collections only when it receives orders from buyers’ cuts down considerably on unsold stock. It is also planning to recycle unsold items.
Most companies have a tough task in managing their sustainability goals, for instance, last year, H&M was accused of burning 12 ton of new, unsold clothing per year (although the fast fashion chain denied the claims). Meanwhile, Louis Vuitton has long been rumoured to burn all unsold bags to avoid lowering brand cachet by selling discounted items in stores. On changing paradigms, Souchet asserted the opportunity is to disconnect revenues from resource consumption and satisfy changing customer needs. Brands need to align the design and business model.
Due to new data and information received after publication of the 40th International Textile Machinery Shipment Statistics (ITMSS 2017) last month, the International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) has revised its statistics for the year 2017.
As per the new data available, the growth in the short-staple spindles has been revised 8 per cent from the earlier 21 per cent. Open end rotors during the period reported zero per cent growth as against 24 per cent published earlier.
However the growth figure for shuttleless looms was increased to 14 per cent from the earlier 13 per cent. The growth in fabric discontinuous was increased to 70 per cent from the earlier 44 per cent; while the growth in fabric continuous was increased to 5 per cent from the earlier zero per cent.
SANTEX RIMAR GROUP has appointed Simone Rancan, former SMIT CEO, as new CEO of the group thus ensuring continuity and a smooth transition.
Joining the group in 2016 as its SMIT CEO, Rancan started his career in Sperotto Rimar and later managed important companies of the weaving and spinning sector.
Stefano Gallucci has been nominated as the CEO of CenterValue, a manufacturer of highly automated medical systems for the diagnosis and management of ocular pathologies based in Italy and USA controlled by SANTEX RIMAR GROUP shareholders.
The company has also announced a structural architecture involving mechanics, electronics and communication systems to provide the most advantageous weaving machine configurations for production of high quality fabrics.
The system is versatile enough to be upgraded anytime, can incorporate custom made self-retaining grippers and is engineered for a wide range of weft material and counts, according to a company release.
London Fashion Week Men’s (LFWM) is taking place June 8 to 11. This is a bi-annual showcase of the most creative and innovative names in the fashion industry.
It features over 50 designer businesses and welcomes guests from over 45 countries.
LFWM brings together an international audience of global media and retailers supported by industry creatives, collaborators, brands and businesses from China, France, Germany, Italy, Japan, South Korea, Spain, the US and UK. There are catwalk shows, experiential activations, pop up shops and performances from alternative hip hop to classic tailoring and previews of collections from international design houses and award winning British designers.
Internationally celebrated designers Alex Mullins, Berthold, BLINDNESS, COTTWEILER, Edward Crutchley, MAN, Matthew Miller, PRONOUNCE, Sharan Wauchob, and Qasimi will hold catwalk shows.
London is an international hub for menswear. The men’s clothing market grew by an estimated 3.5 per cent in 2017. Menswear now accounts for 26 per cent of the total clothing market. Menswear is predicted to grow by 11 per cent between 2018 and 2022.
Since the inception of a dedicated menswear fashion showcase in London in June 2012 over 430 designer brands have been part of over 750 catwalk shows, presentations, performances and events.
The number of countries with arbitrary arrests and detention of workers increased from 44 in 2017 to 59 in 2018, and freedom of speech was constrained in 54 countries, as per IndustriaLL Organisation ( ILO)
The three global trends for workers’ rights are shrinking democratic space, unchecked corporate influence and the importance of legislation.
Democracy is under attack in countries that fail to guarantee people’s right to organize, speak out and take action. Brazil passed laws that denied freedom of association, China restricted free speech and the military was used to suppress labor disputes in Indonesia.
More countries are excluding workers from labor law – from migrant workers, public sector employees to workers in platform businesses-- with 65 per cent of countries excluding whole categories of workers from labor law.
Violations of workers’ and trade union rights are more a rule than an exception.
The number of countries in which workers are exposed to physical violence and threats increased by ten per cent and include Bahrain, Honduras, Italy and Pakistan.
Trade unionists were murdered in nine countries, including Brazil, China, Colombia, Guatemala, Guinea, Mexico, Niger, Nigeria and Tanzania.
Out of 142 countries, 54 deny or constrain free speech and freedom of assembly.
More than 80 per cent of countries deny some or all workers collective bargaining.
Turkey imported 658 circular knitting machines in the first four months of 2018 – almost three times as many as in the first four months of 2017.
In the January-April period of 2017, Turkey imported just 223 circular knitting machines.
The 658 circular knitting machines imported so far this year came from eight countries - three European countries and five countries in the Far East. A total of 145 machines were imported from Germany and 37 machines were imported from Italy. A total of 165 circular knitting machines were imported from the United Kingdom – these are assumed to be second hand machines.
During the period, most of the machinery imported from the Far East came from China, as would be expected - a total of 188 circular knitting machines were imported.
In addition, 24 knitting machines were imported from Japan, 65 machines from Taiwan. Nineteen machines were imported from Malaysia and 15 machines were imported from South Korea.
Turkey is one of the world's leading manufacturers of knitted fabrics.
As Turkey’s textile exports grow, the country’s textile manufacturing companies will have to upgrade their machinery, parts and components, as well as the manufacturing processes. Turkish textile companies are also being encouraged to consider technical collaboration with foreign partners.
Without guaranteeing rates of return Pakistan can’t attract foreign investors.
Pakistan’s economy needs foreign direct investment in the manufacturing sector where the country has a competitive advantage in global markets.
Instead of continuing with fiscal incentives that are a risky and generally costly means of attracting foreign investment, a level playing field should be ensured for foreign investors.
Pakistan’s yarn and fabric exports have declined in the past decade because of high prices.
The country has an advantage in coarse cotton yarn, but the world has moved beyond cotton to blended yarn made from cotton and manmade fiber. Fabrics made from various blended yarns are used to produce very high value apparel. Pakistan does not produce most of these yarns so it does not export high value apparel.
Instead of protecting the domestic basic textile industry, the aim should be to ensure the availability of high quality blended fabric and yarn for exporters so they manufacture high value apparel for exports.
Value-added exports are only going to pick up if apparel exporters have access to inputs at globally competitive rates. Fabric and yarn imports should be allowed duty free on bank guarantee that should be released automatically when apparel produced from these materials are exported and export proceeds realised.
The textile industry generates more harmful Co2 than the entire air and ship traffic as a whole.
Eighty billion pieces of clothes are bought every year, twice as much as 15 years ago and 23 billion pairs of shoes are produced annually.
Mountains of plastic waste, eroded landscapes, droughts or species extinction demonstrate massive environmental pollution, caused by humans and their predatory exploitation of nature.
More plastic than fish could swim in the sea by 2050.
Now consumers can choose environmentally-friendly, climate-neutral and recycled clothes and shoes – without having to accept any compromise on performance.
If we don’t close the textile loop soon with joined forces and thus don’t only prevent additional waste and chemicals, but also save precious resources, such as crude oil and water as well as balance CO2 emissions, such a nature will be a thing of the past.
With today’s customers becoming increasingly environmentally mindful, the timing has never been better to bring awareness to the ways that responsible sustainability can be incorporated into a fashion or lifestyle brand.
In the last ten years sustainable practices have merged into the overall circularity movement and have moved from vocabulary to real practice. Circularity in fashion can positively impact the bottom line when executed strategically.
