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Starting January 1, 2025, the AATCC (American Association of Textile Chemists & Colorists) Journal of Research (AJOR) will become an Open Access Journal, making vital information in textile chemistry, coloration, testing, and advanced materials freely accessible to researchers and professionals worldwide.
Previously, access to AJOR was limited to AATCC members or through paid subscriptions. The shift to Open Access eliminates these barriers, allowing anyone to view all past and present articles at no cost.
This change aligns with AATCC’s mission to disseminate knowledge and enhance education within the textile industry. AJOR has a long-standing reputation for publishing high-quality, peer-reviewed research, serving as a crucial resource for AATCC members to stay updated on advancements in textile science.
The decision to open AJOR to the public is a significant step towards broadening the reach of textile research and fostering collaboration among global professionals.
Key figures in this initiative include Editor in Chief Gang Sun (University of California, Davis), Deputy Editor Chi WaiKan (Hong Kong Polytechnic University), and Publications Chair Jiping Wang (Shanghai University of Engineering Science), who have played a vital role in this transition.
Fashion for Good, along with partners adidas, Inditex, ON Running, PVH Corp., Reformation, Target, and Zalando, has announced a new initiative to advance footwear sustainability. This effort builds on their expertise in innovation and collaboration, targeting key areas to drive footwear circularity.
Annually, 23.9 billion shoes are produced worldwide, often composed of over 40 different materials like TPU, EVA, PU, and rubber. The complexity of shoe construction and low collection rates result in most discarded footwear ending up in landfills. Fashion for Good aims to tackle this by focusing on circularity and accelerating innovation in footwear recycling.
Four core workstreams
Materials: Scouting and validating sustainable alternatives for footwear materials.
Design: Defining circular design and driving guidelines for circular infrastructure.
End of Use: Developing data on post-consumer footwear waste and validating solutions for repair, disassembly, and recycling.
Traceability: Creating a traceability data protocol to substantiate sustainability claims.
Fashion for Good’s experience in multi-stakeholder projects and innovation validation will be pivotal. Partners, including The Footwear Collective, will align efforts to achieve significant results.
Katrin Ley, Managing Director of Fashion for Good, emphasized the organization's and its partners' recognition of the urgent need to accelerate innovation in footwear sustainability. She highlighted their goal to drive circularity and validate sustainable solutions in a segment that is ready for disruption.
Sigrid Buehrle, SVP of Product Operations at adidas, noted that their partnership with Fashion for Good has led to several sustainable innovation initiatives. She expressed their intention to now focus on footwear and address challenges related to the scalability of low-impact materials.
India is poised to become a favorable option for clothing brands looking to diversify their sourcing away from countries where they currently have significant exposure, opines SivaramakrishnanGanapathi, Managing Director, Gokuldas Exports.
The recent events in Bangladesh might accelerate the diversification plans of many clothing brands, Ganapati points out. India's extensive supply chain will attract retailers to consider incremental sourcing from the country, he adds.
Gokuldas Exports collaborates with numerous global garment retailers, including those operating in Bangladesh. However, the country recently experienced significant unrest due to protests against a government policy reserving 30 per cent of civil service jobs for freedom fighters and their descendants. This political turmoil led to the resignation and subsequent escape of Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina,
Ganapathi believes, this instability could compel retailers to reconsider their sourcing strategies, with India emerging as a potential alternative. However, it may still be too early to see a substantial shift in sourcing or changes in orders from Bangladesh, he warns.
In terms of cost, Bangladesh currently has several advantages over India, such as lower labor costs, a weaker currency, and duty-free access to European markets. As India's free-trade agreements with the UK and Europe progress, the competitive landscape could change, potentially leveling the playing field, Ganapathi notes.
A women’s intimatewear brand, Commando plans to expand into the men’s underwear category with its first full collection to be launched this fall.
Starting with two microfiber styles, Commando soon expanded into a wide range of women’s intimates along with bodysuits, leggings, pants, shirts, shorts, skirts, dresses and even jeans.
The brand’s new men’s collection will comprise three categories: Essential, the male version of Commando’s best-selling Butter line for women, and described as a ‘super soft and tactile.’ range. These micro modal pieces will be offered in relaxed or modern-fit trunks, boxer-briefs or briefs in black, navy or titanium in sizes small to XXL. They will retail for $46 or $48.
Next would be the Classic collection that would be created from the comfortable and quick drying Italian microfiber fabrics. In addition to the briefs, trunks and boxers, the collection will alsooffer crewneck and V-neck undershirts in white, black, navy and slate. These will retail for $48 to $54 for the underwear and $88 for the undershirts.
The third category, ‘Ultimate,’ is the ‘lowest profile’ product in bonded microfiber fabrics with bonded edges. It is being offered in boxer-briefs, trunks and briefs in black and will retail for $46 to $50.
In addition to being sold on the Commando e-commerce site, the men’s line is also being sold at Saks Fifth Avenue, Bloomingdale’s, Neiman Marcus, Bergdof Goodman, Revolve and other specialty stores.
According to Kerry O’Brien, Founder, the men’s assortment will follow the same trajectory as the women’s, with more categories and products being added as it becomes established.
As the crisis in the country intensifies, the textile sector in Bangladesh, a significant contributor to its exports, faces several challenges. With international buyers beginning to shift focus to alternative markets like India, there might be a potentialredirection of orders.
Industry experts predict, even if 10-11 percent of Bangladesh's export volume is diverted to Indian hubs like Tiruppur, India could gain an additional $300-400 million in business per month. KM Subramanian, President, TiruppurExporters’ Association, remarks, the association expects at least 10 per cent more orders in this financial year.
Currently, Bangladesh exports apparel worth $3.5-3.8 billion per month, holding a significant market share in the European Union, the United Kingdom, and around 10 percent in the United States. In comparison, India's monthly exports are in the range of $1.3-1.5 billion. PrabhuDamodaran, Secretary, Indian Texpreneurs Federation, states, the current disruptionsmay affect buyers’ sentiments with some orders shifting to India and other countries.India has the capacity to immediately handle an additional $300-400 million in orders, he adds.
The crisis in Bangladesh has emerged at a time when the country was on track to surpass $50 billion in annual exports in 2024, up from around $47 billion in 2023. The instability has also led to concerns about manufacturing units owned by Indians in Bangladesh. Approximately 25 percent of the units in Bangladesh are owned by Indian companies, such as Shahi Exports, House of Pearl Fashions, Jay Jay Mills, TCNS, Gokaldas Images, and Ambattur Clothing.
Highlighting the logistical challenges, S Chandrasekararan, Trade-policy Analyst, states, the breakdown in the supply chain for the upcoming Christmas season may benefit India with some orders being diverted to the country.Though global export volumes might drop, this could be offset by a rise in shipments from India, he adds.
Making its debut in the Middle East market, Italian luxury fashion house Roberto Cavalli will launch its new Spring/Summer 2025 collection at the upcoming Dubai Fashion Week.
Scheduled from Sep 01-07 at Dubai Design District (d3), the prestigious event will featurethe brand as the Guest of Honor.
Known for its bold prints, luxurious fabrics, and iconic denim, Roberto Cavallihas long captivated fashion enthusiasts worldwide. It is currently experiencing resurgence under the leadership of Fausto Puglisi, Creative Director.
Dubai’s status as a global fashion hub combined with the city's burgeoning luxury market alongwith platforms like Dubai Fashion Week (DFW), provide an ideal environment for international fashion brands to thrive. By choosing Dubai for its Middle Eastern debut, Roberto Cavalliemphasiseson the region’s growing influence on the global fashion scene.
Khadija Al Bastaki, Senior Vice President, Dubai Design District (d3), avers,the brand’s presence at DFW is a testament to Dubai’s position as a world-class fashion destination.
Mohammed Aqra, Chief Strategy Officer, Arab Fashion Council, adds, the strong connection between the brand and the region will ensure its success in this market.
Fausto Puglisi, Creative Director, Roberto Cavalli, adds, Dubai is a perfect match for Roberto Cavalli’s future vision and the brand aims to engage with both existing and new customers.
The upcoming Dubai Fashion Week promises to be a star-studded event, with a pre-show gathering of media and celebrities kicking off the festivities. Over 30 designers from around the globe will present their latest collections, making DFW an essential event for fashion enthusiasts and industry professionals.
The Ethiopian Textile and Garment Manufacturers Association (ETGMA)has called for stricter enforcement of laws against illegal clothing imports and increased support for local manufacturers to help them remain competitive in an increasingly challenging market.
Since the last few months, Ethiopia’s textile manufacturers have beenstruggling to compete with the influx of second-hand garments, known as ‘bonda’ clothingthat has been flooding the market at low prices.
The surge of bonda clothing, colloquially known as ‘Taiwanese’is making it difficult for Ethiopian textile manufacturers to sell their products in the market, says Ageazi G/Selassie, General Secretary, ETGMA. As these second-hand garments are often dry-washed, tagged, and distributed across various boutiques in urban areas, local businesses are unable to compete on price and quality. As a result, many manufacturers are being driven out of the market.
Over the past decade, Ethiopia’s textile and apparel sector has generated approximately $1 billion in export revenue, while imports have totaled around $5.4 billion, resulting in a trade deficit of $4.4 billion. This gap underscores the difficulties faced by the domestic industry, now further compounded by the proliferation of illegal clothing products.
Despite the importing illegal clothing being prohibited under Ethiopian law, the market for these garments is rapidly growing. These products enter the market through various channels and are often sold at prices that are highly attractive to consumers.
The impact of second-hand clothing influx on small-scale manufacturers and vulnerable businesses is particularly severe as they are being forced to quit the market. Local producers in rural areas are being further challenged by a different type of second-hand clothing, known as ‘relief,’clothing.
Asper a study conducted by the association last year, ‘bonda’ clothing accounted for 53 per cent of the Ethiopia’s textile market.This poses a significant threat to local textile industries in Ethiopia and beyond, as consumers increasingly opt for these cheaper alternatives, further pressuring domestic manufacturers.
The Ethiopian Textile and Garment Manufacturers Association (ETGMA)has called for stricter enforcement of laws against illegal clothing imports and increased support for local manufacturers to help them remain competitive in an increasingly challenging market.
Since the last few months, Ethiopia’s textile manufacturers have beenstruggling to compete with the influx of second-hand garments, known as ‘bonda’ clothingthat has been flooding the market at low prices.
The surge of bonda clothing, colloquially known as ‘Taiwanese’is making it difficult for Ethiopian textile manufacturers to sell their products in the market, says Ageazi G/Selassie, General Secretary, ETGMA. As these second-hand garments are often dry-washed, tagged, and distributed across various boutiques in urban areas, local businesses are unable to compete on price and quality. As a result, many manufacturers are being driven out of the market.
Over the past decade, Ethiopia’s textile and apparel sector has generated approximately $1 billion in export revenue, while imports have totaled around $5.4 billion, resulting in a trade deficit of $4.4 billion. This gap underscores the difficulties faced by the domestic industry, now further compounded by the proliferation of illegal clothing products.
Despite the importing illegal clothing being prohibited under Ethiopian law, the market for these garments is rapidly growing. These products enter the market through various channels and are often sold at prices that are highly attractive to consumers.
The impact of second-hand clothing influx on small-scale manufacturers and vulnerable businesses is particularly severe as they are being forced to quit the market. Local producers in rural areas are being further challenged by a different type of second-hand clothing, known as ‘relief,’clothing.
Asper a study conducted by the association last year, ‘bonda’ clothing accounted for 53 per cent of the Ethiopia’s textile market.This poses a significant threat to local textile industries in Ethiopia and beyond, as consumers increasingly opt for these cheaper alternatives, further pressuring domestic manufacturers.
The ongoing political unrest in Bangladesh has brought the country's apparel industry to its knees. With factories shuttered, transportation halted, and communication networks disrupted, production has ground to a halt, leading to massive order cancellations and financial losses.
“It’s a nightmare scenario,” said President of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA). “We’ve never seen anything like this before. The industry is bleeding.”
Billions of dollars in losses
Industry estimates suggest that the crisis has already cost the apparel sector over $800 million in just a few days and it cost more than $4 bn worth of orders. With each passing day, the losses mount as buyers seek alternative sources for their products.“The financial impact is catastrophic,” says a leading apparel exporter. “We’re facing massive order cancellations and delays. It’s going to take months to recover.”
Global brands fleeing Bangladesh
The crisis is likely to erod confidence in Bangladesh as a reliable manufacturing hub. Global brands are increasingly concerned about production delays, quality issues, and the overall risk of operating in an unstable environment.“We’re closely monitoring the situation and exploring alternative sourcing options,” said a spokesperson for a major global apparel retailer. “The safety and security of our workers is our top priority.”
India poised to benefit
As Bangladesh struggles, India is emerging as a potential beneficiary. With its vast textile industry and existing infrastructure, India is well-positioned to absorb some of the overflow of orders.“This is a golden opportunity for India to showcase its capabilities,”avers an Indian textile industry expert. “We need to be proactive and aggressive in attracting new business.”
Government under pressure
The Bangladeshi government is facing mounting criticism for its handling of the crisis. The opposition is demanding immediate steps to restore order and protect the country’s vital apparel industry.
The crisis is having a devastating impact on the millions of workers employed in Bangladesh’s apparel industry. With factories closed, many are facing unemployment and financial hardship.
The ongoing political and economic instability in Bangladesh is casting a long shadow over the Indian textile and apparel industry. With factories shutting down repeatedly in Bangladesh, the ripple effects are being felt across the value chain.
A hit to Indian raw material exports
India is a major supplier of raw materials like cotton, yarn, and fabric to Bangladesh's thriving apparel sector. The frequent closures of factories due to political unrest have led to a sharp decline in demand for these materials. Indian textile exports to Bangladesh have been volatile and will face major decline during this period of heightened political tension.: "The uncertainty in Bangladesh is hurting our raw material exports badly. We have already seeing a drop-in orders and prices," says a leading exporter.
India exports $2.4 billion worth of its cotton to Bangladesh, according to ministry of commerce data, the share of Bangladesh in India’s overall cotton exports doubled from 16.8% in FY13 to 34.9% in FY24. Raw cotton exports accounted for a fourth of India’s total exports to the country in FY24. Any political instability in Bangladesh could significantly impact India's cotton sector, despite overall trade remaining unaffected.
Global brands to seek alternatives
The disruptions in Bangladesh's apparel production have also caught the attention of global brands. Faced with delayed shipments and quality concerns, these brands are increasingly looking for alternative sourcing destinations. India, with its large textile and apparel industry, is a natural contender.While India is already a significant player in global apparel sourcing, the current situation in Bangladesh presents a unique opportunity to increase its market share."We are closely monitoring the situation in Bangladesh. If the instability persists, we will definitely explore options to diversify our sourcing base," says a sourcing manager for a leading global apparel brand.
A boon for Indian apparel industry
The challenges faced by the Bangladeshi apparel sector could be a boon for Indian apparel brands and retailers. With duty-free access to the Indian market, many Bangladeshi exporters have been supplying garments to Indian players. However, the recent disruptions may compel these brands and retailers to shift their focus to domestic sourcing. India's largest retailer, Reliance Retail, has already announced plans to significantly increase its sourcing from domestic manufacturers. This move is expected to benefit thousands of Indian textile and apparel businesses."We believe in supporting the Indian textile industry. The current situation in Bangladesh provides us with an opportunity to strengthen our domestic supply chain," says a spokesperson for Reliance Retail.
Challenges and opportunities
While the current situation in Bangladesh presents several opportunities for the Indian textile and apparel industry, it also comes with challenges. India needs to address issues such as infrastructure, labor costs, and skill development to effectively capitalize on this situation.Moreover, the industry must focus on product innovation and quality to compete with global benchmarks. By adopting sustainable practices and leveraging technology, India can position itself as a preferred sourcing destination for global brands.
The ongoing turmoil in Bangladesh is creating a complex and dynamic landscape for the Indian textile and apparel industry. While challenges persist, the potential for growth and development is significant.
