Leading apparel retailers like Adidas, Marks and Spencer, Patagonia and Phillips-Van Heusen have taken steps against cotton from Uzbekistan entering their supply chain to protest against forced labour practices in the country. A survey named ‘Cotton Sourcing Snapshot: A Survey of Corporate Practices to End Forced Labor’, of 49 apparel and home goods firms released by the Responsible Sourcing Network (RSN) looked at what the companies are doing to identify risks, establish policies, implement procedures, and disclose practices to eliminate and prevent incidents of forced labour in cotton harvesting. Evaluations covered 11 indicators across policy, public disclosure, engagement, and implementation and auditing.

While only five companies scored over 50 points, 19 scored under 25 points, and two companies scored zero. Among those with the lowest rankings were Costco, Forever 21 and Sears, with All Saints and Urban Outfitters coming last according to the report. 

The report found that only 2 per cent of companies surveyed fully disclose progress and/or challenges with their strategies on Uzbek cotton, and only 6 per cent have fully implemented a traceability or spinner verification program.
Of those that do implement best practices, 18.5 per cent are involved in spinner efforts individually or through another initiative; 16 per cent provide training and require their suppliers/spinners to abide by their policies; an additional 8 per cent also include this in their supplier contracts; and 12 per cent have independent third-party audits of their spinners/mills.

www.sourcingnetwork.org