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New CMAI initiative to address 70 lakh tons of textile waste
India’s apparel ecosystem is aggressively scaling up post-consumer waste recovery pathways following the nationwide rollout of the ‘Freedom from Unused Garments’ initiative. Spearheaded by the Clothing Manufacturers Association of India alongside ReFiber and UNIDO, the campaign addresses the country's generation of approximately 70 lakh tons of annual textile waste. Industry leaders emphasize, over half of this volume emerges post-consumer use, necessitating structured collection mechanisms rather than traditional landfill disposal. By leveraging digital applications for door-to-door micro-logistics, the initiative provides a seamless framework to divert discarded apparel back into yarn and fiber spinning mills for mechanical or chemical recycling.
Collaborative ecosystems and economic impact
Moving beyond basic recycling, the movement integrates social empowerment with material recovery. Collected garments are systematically sorted through partnerships with artisan trusts and social organizations to be repurposed or upcycled into commercial secondary textiles. Stakeholders note, establishing a robust circular infrastructure protects operating margins against raw material scarcities while satisfying stringent international traceability norms demanded by Western import markets. Collection is only the initial phase; true commercial integration occurs when recovered fibers re-enter the spinning pipeline as high-value yarn feedstock, remarks a senior industry coordinator tracking national ESG mandates.
Championing progressive reforms and international trade alignment
The Clothing Manufacturers Association of India is the apex national body representing the domestic apparel sector, encompassing manufacturers, exporters, brands, and retail networks across the country. Focused on driving policy advocacy, ESG compliance, and sustainable manufacturing transitions like the landmark SU.RE initiative, CMAI has historically championed progressive structural reforms and international trade alignment since its inception over six decades ago.
MIT’s recyclable yarn could disrupt spandex’s grip on fashion

Stretch has become essential to modern fashion. Activewear, denim, underwear and athleisure all depend heavily on elastic fibres such as spandex, also known as elastane. But the same fibre that gives garments flexibility creates a major recycling problem. When spandex is combined with polyester or nylon, the resulting fabric becomes a multi-material product that is difficult to recycle through conventional mechanical processes.
The problem is significant. Around 80 per cent of textiles in the US apparel market are estimated to contain some spandex. Once these garments reach the end of their useful life, separating the elastic component from the main fibre can require costly and complex processing. As a result, many blended garments ultimately end up in landfills or incinerators. This is where research from the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT) could have commercial significance.
One fibre family, one recycling stream
MIT researchers have developed an elastic yarn made entirely from polyolefins, using polyethylene for both the outer sheath and the flexible core. Unlike conventional stretch yarns, which combine chemically different materials, the MIT yarn keeps its components within the same material family. That means the finished yarn can potentially be melted, extruded and spun again without first separating different fibres.
The research, published in ACS Materials Letters, reveals the yarn could be remelted and respun through 10 cycles while retaining its performance.
Table: Conventional stretch yarn vs. recyclable MIT polyethylene yarn
|
Feature |
Conventional stretch yarn |
MIT polyethylene yarn |
|
Core |
Polyurethane/spandex |
Polyethylene copolymer |
|
Sheath |
Polyester or nylon |
Engineered polyethylene |
|
Recycling |
Difficult multi-material separation |
Direct remelting |
|
Processing |
Often requires specialised separation |
Compatible with melt processing |
|
Tested Recycling |
Performance can deteriorate |
Performance retained through 10 cycles |
The significance goes beyond simply replacing one fibre with another. The innovation tackles the problem of blended textiles by designing stretch into a material system that can remain recyclable.
Designed for existing manufacturing
The MIT approach also has a potential advantage for textile manufacturers: it does not depend on an entirely new fibre ecosystem. Researchers developed different polyethylene formulations for the yarn’s core and sheath. The flexible core provides elasticity, while the stronger outer material provides protection and strength.
The materials are heated to around 350°F (177°C), extruded through fine nozzles and converted into filaments before being processed into yarn. This creates a yarn that can potentially move through existing spinning and textile production infrastructure with relatively limited changes. The lower processing temperature could also offer an energy advantage compared with polyester, which generally requires significantly higher temperatures during processing.
Why activewear could be the first test
The biggest commercial opportunity may lie in performance apparel. Consider a pair of leggings made with 82 per cent recycled polyester and 18 per cent spandex. The recycled polyester content may allow a brand to market the product as partly sustainable, but the elastane blend still makes end-of-life recycling difficult.
A mono-material stretch yarn could change that equation. Instead of sending a blended garment to a specialised chemical recycling process, manufacturers could potentially shred the product, melt the material and convert it into new pellets or fibres. For fashion companies facing tighter circularity requirements and producer-responsibility obligations, this could eventually reduce the cost of managing textile waste.
The commercial hurdles
The technology is promising, but laboratory performance does not automatically translate into mass-market adoption. Textile mills would need to validate the yarn across knitting, weaving, dyeing and finishing processes. Brands would also need to assess durability, comfort, colour performance and consumer care requirements.
Polyethylene presents another challenge: it does not behave like polyester when dyed. Solution or dope dyeing may therefore, become more important, requiring colour pigments to be incorporated during fibre production rather than relying on conventional dye baths. That could reduce water use and wastewater generation, but it would also require brands and mills to make colour decisions earlier in the supply chain. Garment-care standards may need adjustment as well, particularly around high-temperature washing and drying.
Challenge to spandex’s dominance
The global spandex market, valued at billions of dollars, is deeply embedded across activewear, denim, intimates and athleisure. Replacing it will not happen simply because an alternative yarn becomes technically viable. The larger opportunity is to rethink how stretch fabrics are designed.
For years, fashion has treated recyclability as something to address after a garment is made. MIT’s approach reverses that logic by designing the material itself around future recovery. If the technology can move from laboratory-scale production to commercially competitive textile manufacturing, it could give brands a new way to combine stretch performance with circularity. The bigger lesson is that the next phase of sustainable fashion may not be about finding better ways to separate blended garments. It could be about eliminating the blend altogether.
Speed, synthetics and trade pacts propel Vietnam past Bangladesh

Vietnam has overtaken Bangladesh to become the world's second-largest exporter of ready-made garments (RMG), marking more than a symbolic change in global trade rankings. The shift reflects a change in the way international fashion brands are designing supply chains around speed, product complexity, trade preferences and supply resilience rather than labour cost alone.
China remains the undisputed leader with almost 31 per cent of global apparel exports, but the competition for the second position indicates how sourcing priorities have evolved in an era of fast fashion, shorter product cycles and diversified manufacturing networks.
Changing sourcing equation
As per data compiled from the World Trade Organization (WTO), UNCTAD and national trade agencies, global apparel exports have become more concentrated around specialised manufacturing hubs.
Table: Global apparel export market share distribution
|
Rank |
Exporter |
Global market share |
Estimated annual exports |
Core strength |
|
1 |
China |
31.6-32.8% |
Over $150 bn |
Full-spectrum apparel manufacturing |
|
2 |
Vietnam |
6.4% |
$29-38 bn |
Technical apparel, synthetics, activewear |
|
3 |
Bangladesh |
6.3% |
$28-38 bn |
Cotton basics, denim and knitwear |
For years, Bangladesh built its competitiveness around large-scale production of basic cotton garments, serving retailers such as Walmart, Primark, Target and Gap. Vietnam, in contrast, positioned itself in higher-value categories including activewear, technical outerwear and athleisure, supplying brands such as Nike, Adidas, Lululemon, Zara and Uniqlo. This difference has become very important as global demand shifts towards performance fabrics and shorter fashion cycles.
Speed over scale
Vietnam's growth has been driven by factors like manufacturing capability and ecosystem development rather than labour arbitrage alone. The country's garment industry derives nearly 57 per cent of its production from synthetic and man-made fibres (MMF), compared with Bangladesh's approximately 72 per cent dependence on cotton apparel. Since synthetic fibres now account for more than half of global apparel consumption by value, Vietnam's production mix is closely aligned with evolving consumer demand.
Foreign direct investment from South Korea, Taiwan and China has helped Vietnam establish integrated spinning, weaving and dyeing clusters, allowing manufacturers to source technical fabrics domestically. Bangladesh, meanwhile, continues to import roughly 70 per cent of its synthetic fibre requirements, increasing lead times and exposing exporters to raw material price volatility.
The operational gap extends well beyond fibre choice. Vietnam typically completes production within 30-45 days, while Bangladesh's cycle ranges between 60 and 90 days because of imported inputs, logistics bottlenecks and periodic energy constraints. Direct shipping routes from Vietnamese ports also reduce transit times to Europe and North America by up to two weeks compared with South Asian routes.
For global retailers, those additional days can determine whether merchandise is sold at full price or marked down at season-end. Vietnam also commands higher export realisations. In the US market, Vietnamese apparel achieves an average export value of about $3.71 per sq. mt. compared to Bangladesh's $3.10. In Europe, the gap is even wider, with Vietnam earning approximately $30.76 per kg against Bangladesh's $17.27. The premium reflects Vietnam's greater presence in technically sophisticated and higher-margin product categories.
The tariff advantage
Trade policy has emerged as another decisive differentiator. Vietnam enjoys preferential market access through agreements such as the EU-Vietnam Free Trade Agreement (EVFTA), the Comprehensive and Progressive Agreement for Trans-Pacific Partnership (CPTPP) and the Regional Comprehensive Economic Partnership (RCEP). These agreements provide predictable tariff reductions and strengthen long-term sourcing confidence among multinational retailers.
Bangladesh's position is more uncertain. Much of its export competitiveness still depends on Least Developed Country (LDC) preferences, including the European Union's Everything But Arms (EBA) framework. As the country prepares for LDC graduation, preserving tariff competitiveness through new bilateral agreements or qualifying for the EU's GSP+ regime will become increasingly important.
What the numbers mean for retailers
The ranking change does not imply that retailers are abandoning Bangladesh. Instead, sourcing portfolios are becoming more specialised.
A representative sourcing model illustrates the trend. Rather than relying overwhelmingly on Bangladesh, retailers are increasingly splitting production between countries based on product characteristics.
Table: Global apparel sourcing hubs and their advantages
|
Product category |
Preferred manufacturing hub |
Rationale |
|
High-volume cotton basics |
Bangladesh |
Lowest production costs for predictable demand |
|
Activewear, outerwear, and technical garments |
Vietnam |
Faster lead times and synthetic fibre expertise |
|
Trend-driven collections |
Nearshore markets (e.g., Turkey or Mexico) |
Rapid replenishment and shorter delivery cycles |
This dual-hub sourcing strategy enables retailers to reduce markdowns, improve inventory planning and respond faster to changing consumer demand without concentrating production risk in a single geography.
Lessons for Bangladesh
Vietnam's rise should not be viewed solely as a competitive setback for Bangladesh but as an indication of where the industry is heading. Stakeholders have identified five broad priorities for sustaining export growth: expanding domestic MMF production, modernising logistics infrastructure, ensuring uninterrupted industrial energy supplies, accelerating factory automation and digital sampling, and negotiating post-LDC trade agreements with key export markets.
Significant investment in synthetic fibre manufacturing would reduce dependence on imported raw materials, while port automation and improved customs processes could shorten shipment cycles. At the factory level, wider adoption of automated cutting systems, 3D sampling and digital production planning would help manufacturers meet increasingly compressed retail calendars.
A broader realignment
The global apparel industry is moving beyond a single metric of low-cost manufacturing. Buyers are increasingly evaluating suppliers on a combination of speed, product sophistication, supply-chain resilience and trade access. Vietnam's rise to the second position reflects success in aligning industrial policy, manufacturing capability and trade diplomacy with changing market demand. Bangladesh retains formidable strengths in scale, efficiency and cotton-based production, but maintaining its competitive position will require a faster transition towards synthetic textiles, integrated supply chains and higher-value manufacturing.
For global fashion brands, the emerging sourcing model is unlikely to be about choosing one country over another. Instead, it will increasingly revolve around allocating production to the location best suited for each product category—a strategy that is reshaping the geography of apparel manufacturing worldwide.
India’s T&A exports display operational divergence
India’s foreign trade performance in the textile and apparel (T&A) sector displayed a sharp operational divergence mid-year. While upstream raw material and fabric shipments gathered robust upward momentum, downstream RMG shipments encountered persistent headwinds. Sector analysts attribute the intermediate goods expansion to stabilizing global yarn and fiber demands, whereas the garment contraction reflects cautious inventory corrections by Western retail buyers facing sluggish consumer spending.
Strategic reorientation toward European markets
To cushion against volatile consumer demand in North America, leading domestic manufacturers are redirecting their supply chain footprints toward European corridors. Recent preferential trade agreements have catalyzed double-digit inquiry jumps from buyers in the United Kingdom, Germany, and Poland. We are witnessing a structural shift where European retail houses are expanding sourcing destinations outside traditional Asian hubs, notes Rajesh Mehra, Director, Apex Garments Export Council. Major export houses are scaling up production capacities domestically while optimizing alternate manufacturing bases to fulfill stricter compliance and sustainability mandates required by European buyers.
Targeting European exports
Raymond Lifestyle operates as a premier integrated manufacturer and retailer of men's apparel, fabrics, and high-value fashion garments. The enterprise commands dominant market segments across worsted suitings, branded readymade apparel—featuring labels such as Park Avenue and ColorPlus—and high-precision garment contracting for international brands. Backed by aggressive manufacturing expansion plans in southern India and overseas units, the company targets raising European shipments to account for a quarter of its total export revenue, mitigating North American market volatility through strategic geographical diversification and enhanced technical textile integration.
Bangladesh, Netherlands collaborate to promote circular textile economy
The bilateral trade framework between South Asia and Europe has reached a notable milestone following the formalization of a strategic agreement between Bangladesh and the Netherlands. Designed to accelerate sustainable industrialization, the newly signed MoU focuses on integrating circular economy principles directly into the ready-made garment and textile supply chains. As international compliance mandates and environmental standards tighten across Western retail markets, this diplomatic and commercial pact seeks to optimize resource efficiency, minimize industrial waste, and expand green technology adoption across local manufacturing units.
Upgrading manufacturing infrastructure for global competitiveness
With domestic textile mills facing mounting pressure to reduce carbon footprints and eliminate hazardous discharge, the collaborative framework emphasizes advanced waste recycling and cleaner production systems. Industry stakeholders note, transitioning away from traditional linear production models is no longer optional for maintaining long-term export viability, particularly as international apparel brands demand verified traceability. This MoU is an important milestone in advancing our partnership towards a greener, more resilient and future-oriented economy, states Khandakar Abdul Muktadir, Commerce Minister, Bangladesh. By combining Dutch green technologies with South Asian manufacturing scale, the initiative aims to safeguard regional market share against escalating ecological compliance hurdles.
Bilateral cooperation and sustainable trade profile
The bilateral pact unites government bodies, financial institutions, and industry associations from Bangladesh and the Netherlands to foster sustainable textile manufacturing. Focusing on resource conservation, green employment, and advanced recycling infrastructure, the initiative supports emerging market producers in meeting stringent international environmental benchmarks.
Bombay Dyeing targets festive home demand with new bedding collections
Bombay Dyeing has launched three bedding collections - Saughat, Ethnicity and Urban Living - to tap festive-season demand ahead of Raksha Bandhan and Onam. The collections span traditional Indian motifs, contemporary prints and premium bedding, with prices ranging from Rs 5,499 to Rs 6,699. The launch comes as festive gifting increasingly extends beyond apparel and personal products into home categories.
Cotton, digital prints lead the assortment
Saughat is positioned around festive gifting, using reds, maroons, golds and pastels, with premium gift-box packaging and an MRP of Rs 5,499. Ethnicity features 300-thread-count satin-finish, 100 per cent cotton fabric and digital prints, priced at Rs 6,349. Urban Living moves further up the range with 400-thread-count satin-finish cotton, digital printing and a Rs 6,699 price point. All three king-size sets include a bedsheet and four pillow covers.
145-year textile legacy meets modern retail
Founded in 1879, Bombay Dyeing is a flagship brand of the Wadia Group and operates across home textiles and lifestyle categories including bedsheets, towels, comforters, blankets and pillows, alongside suiting and shirting. The brand sells through modern trade and continues to expand its distribution through franchise partnerships and alliances across India. Its festive launch places design-led home textiles at the centre of seasonal gifting and consumption.
Eastman takes US-made Naia fibers closer to Western Hemisphere apparel sourcing
Eastman is taking its Naia cellulosic fiber and filament yarn portfolio to Guatemala’s Apparel Sourcing Show for the first time, as apparel manufacturers and brands look to strengthen sourcing links closer to the US market. The event from August 18–20, 2026 brings together yarn, textile, machinery and apparel suppliers across the DR-CAFTA region.
Naia Renew targets activewear demand
At Booth 50, Eastman will present US-produced Naia staple fibers and filament yarns for casualwear and activewear, including Naia On The Move. The application uses Naia Renew staple fiber, comprising 60 per cent sustainably sourced wood pulp and 40 per cent certified recycled waste through GRS-certified mass-balance accounting. Eastman says the material is designed for comfort, breathability, moisture management and quick-drying performance.
The move comes as Guatemala seeks to strengthen its role in regional nearshoring. AAPN and VESTEX are also using this year’s show to connect brand and retail sourcing executives with local factories and suppliers, highlighting speed-to-market and regional supply-chain capabilities.
US specialty materials manufacturer
Founded in 1920, Eastman is a US specialty materials producer serving customers in more than 100 countries. Its portfolio spans materials for transportation, construction and consumer markets, including Naia textile fibers. The company reported $8.8 billion in 2025 revenue and employs about 13,000 people globally.
Organic cotton valuations face potential volatility amid shifting supply dynamics
The global organic cotton market is navigating a delicate equilibrium as stringent certification protocols and volatile agricultural outputs test supply chain resilience. With the worldwide organic cotton sector expanding toward a projected valuation of US$ 3.25 billion, raw fiber pricing remains susceptible to sudden breakouts driven by tightening farm-gate availability and fluctuating retail commitments.
Unlike conventional commodities, organic cultivation requires a rigorous three-year pesticide-free transition phase under Global Organic Textile Standard frameworks, structurally capping yields at roughly 60 to 70 per cent of conventional output levels. Consequently, minor weather disruptions or unexpected rises in corporate procurement can trigger sharp price corrections across key sourcing regions.
Sourcing pressures across the textile value chain
Spinning mills and apparel manufacturers are encountering persistent cost spreads between certified organic fibers and alternative sustainable inputs, such as pre-consumer recycled cotton. While eco-conscious apparel brands increasingly mandate certified organic yarn for high-end collections to meet stringent ESG targets, high production costs and limited seed availability continue to constrain rapid volume scaling.
Brands committed to absolute traceability are encountering tight spot supplies, forcing procurement teams to reevaluate long-term contracting models to hedge against potential price spikes, notes Rajesh Sharma, Senior Agricultural Commodity Analyst, Global Textile Insights. Industry stakeholders emphasize, sustained market stability will depend on closer collaboration between farming cooperatives and global retail brands to secure predictable crop yields without compromising environmental integrity.
Enhancing supply chain transparency with ethical production
The organic cotton sector encompasses certified agricultural producers, ginners, and specialized spinning mills supplying eco-friendly fibers to global apparel and home textile markets. Key categories include GOTS-certified raw lint, organic yarn, and blended fabrics. Driven by strong demand across North America, Europe, and Asia-Pacific, the sector focuses on scaling traceable production, expanding land conversion programs, and enhancing supply chain transparency.
Premium denim sector in trouble as luxury jeans labels restructure operations
The global premium apparel market faces renewed turbulence as macroeconomic pressures and shifting consumer preferences compel legacy denim brands to reevaluate their operational models. Mid-tier and luxury jeans manufacturers are confronting compressed margins, driven by rising raw material costs and cautious discretionary spending among retail shoppers. Industry observers note, mall-based apparel chains and denim specialists are particularly vulnerable to fluctuating traffic patterns and excessive inventory accumulation, prompting several labels to seek court-supervised protection to shed legacy lease liabilities and restructure heavily leveraged balance sheets.
Strategic restructuring and operational modernization
Faced with mounting liquidity challenges, corporate leadership teams are increasingly utilizing restructuring frameworks to cancel unprofitable retail storefront agreements and realign supply chain operations toward digital-first commerce. Market analysts emphasize, long-term survival in the contemporary apparel sector relies on agile inventory management and strict cost discipline rather than aggressive physical footprint expansion. Brands can no longer rely solely on brand heritage; operational efficiency and direct-to-consumer digital alignment dictate market viability, notes Sarah Jenkins, Senior Retail Strategy Consultant, Global Apparel Insights. Companies successfully emerging from reorganization are focusing on sustainable fabric sourcing and data-driven product development to recapture market share.
Specialist in men’s and women’s denims
A specialist in designer men's and women's denim, Mud Jeans offers premium five-pocket jeans, jackets, and casual lifestyle apparel. Distributed globally through high-end department stores and proprietary e-commerce channels, the brand previously enjoyed rapid growth during the early-2000s denim boom before encountering prolonged retail headwinds and shifting fashion cycles.
Sustainable dyeing innovation takes center stage as Imogo opens new Swedish facility
An affiliate of the Swedish textile machinery association TMAS, Imogo has established a dedicated showroom and manufacturing facility at the 7H Dyehouse in Kinnahult, Sweden. This development introduces industrial-scale digital spray dyeing systems designed to curb environmental footprints across apparel production lines. Utilizing advanced application hardware, the facility houses both the Dye-max and Mini-max machinery, targeting natural fiber coloration for woven and knitted fabrics up to 2.4 meters wide.
Scaling sustainable apparel production
The installation addresses urgent sustainability mandates by cutting water, energy, and chemical consumption significantly compared with conventional immersion dyeing. The commercial-grade Dye-max line delivers a processing capacity of 1.5 metric tons daily, bridging the gap between laboratory trials and high-volume manufacturing. The organization is now fully equipped with the machinery, technical expertise, and operational experience to move projects from the lab to full-scale commercial production, states Joacim Wellander, CEO, Imogo. This operational readiness enables textile mills and global fashion brands to integrate resource-efficient finishing into existing supply chains without sacrificing fabric quality or production velocity.
Swedish machinery advancements and enterprise profile
Imogo specializes in high-performance digital spray dyeing equipment for natural textile fibers. Serving global apparel and fabric manufacturers, the company focuses on scaling eco-efficient coloration technologies. Backed by solid industry partnerships, Imogo drives sustainable modernization across international textile processing sectors.










