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Bemberg by Asahi Kasei was a key participant in the Zero Edition of the Smart Closet event, held from September 27-29 during Milano Beauty Week. This innovative event, organized by CLASS and Equipe International, promotes a new generation of fashion that emphasizes beauty, innovation, and responsibility.
Bemberg, a regenerated cellulose fiber known as cupro, is produced exclusively by Asahi Kasei in Japan. The fiber's circular economy model is based on a closed-loop process, utilizing regenerated cellulose from cottonseed oil manufacturing. This sustainable approach ensures transparency and traceability, making Bemberg suitable for various applications, from linings to couture.
At the event, Bemberg presented the capsule collection ‘A Dress For Venice,’ designed by eco-designer Tiziano Guardini and illustrated by artist Jacopo Ascari. Produced in collaboration with Martina Vidal Venezia, the collection features elements of Burano lace, an ancient craft nominated for UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage status. The garments were crafted from Bemberg fabrics printed with low-water pigment inks by Creazioni Digitali.
A panel discussion titled ‘A Dress For Venice’ featured Guardini, Ascari, and representatives from Creazioni Digitali and Asahi Kasei Fibers Italia. Moderated by CLASS CEO Giusy Bettoni, the talk explored the collection's sustainable journey, demonstrating that fashion can be beautiful, innovative, and eco-friendly. Bemberg aligns with Smart Closet’s vision, promoting a harmonious relationship between aesthetics and responsibility in the fashion industry.
The Association of Suppliers to the British Clothing Industry (ASBCI) is set to host a conference on October 16, 2024, in Halifax, UK, focusing on the impact of artificial intelligence (AI) on the textile and clothing industries. Textiles Intelligence is the official media partner.
The conference will examine how AI is transforming areas such as trend prediction, product development, stock optimisation, and customer engagement, while also addressing ethical concerns. Key discussions will centre on how AI can drive innovation, reduce waste, enhance efficiency, and present new risks and responsibilities for businesses.
Ahmed Zaidi, CEO and co-founder of Hyran Technologies, will deliver the keynote, exploring the role of AI in solving long-standing industry challenges. His talk will highlight the intersection of fashion and AI, focusing on AI’s potential to meet consumer demands and improve profitability.
The event will also feature notable industry speakers such as Jack Stratten of Insider Trends, Nick Eley from ASOS, and Cedric Hoffman of Ameba. Topics will range from AI’s role in design and supply chains to its potential for waste reduction and personalisation. Additionally, speakers will address legal, ethical, and sustainability concerns tied to AI adoption.
Julie King, chair of the ASBCI, emphasized the importance of understanding AI’s broad impact on the fashion industry and the need for clear direction amid rapid advancements. The conference aims to provide a comprehensive look at how the industry can harness AI responsibly.
Two panel discussions, moderated by Jenny Holloway and Simon Platts, will further explore the benefits and challenges of AI in fashion.
This conference represents a timely opportunity for industry professionals to stay ahead of the AI curve while navigating its complexities.
Amongst competing countries, Bangladesh registered the largest decline in apparel exports to the United States during the Jan-Aug’24 period, shows data from the Office of Textiles and Apparel under the US Department of Commerce.
Bangladesh’s apparel exports to the US declined by 9.16 per cent in value and 3.86 per cent in volume during these eight months due to ongoing challenges faced by exporters including rising production costs and extended lead times.
In terms of value, Bangladesh’s apparel exports to the US declined to $4.71 billion during Jan-Aug’24period compared to $5.18 billion in the corresponding period of 2023.
By volume, Bangladesh apparel exports declined to 1.52 billion sqm during Jan-Aug’24 from 1.58 billion sq m exported in the same period of the previous year. Vietnam’s apparel exports to the US declined by 1.06 per cent to $9.56 billion during the first eight months of 2024 from $9.66 billion in the same period of 2023.
China continued to be the largest supplier of apparel to the US market, although the country also witnessed a slight decline during the Jan-Aug’24 period.
Overall apparel imports by the US declined by 2.98 per cent to $10.69 billion during the eight-month period spanning Jan-Aug’24 compared to $11.02 billion in the same period of the previous year. In terms of volume, overall apparel imports by the US increased by 1.41 per cent to $16.71 billion sq m from $16.48 billion sq m in the same period of 2023.
Apparel imports from India and Indonesia also declined during the first eight months of 2024. RMG imports from India declined to $3.21 billion compared to $3.26 billion in the same period of the previous year. Meanwhile, imports from Indonesia contracted by 7.16 per cent to $2.68 billion compared with those of $2.89 billion in the same period of 2023.
On the other hand, apparel imports from Cambodia rose to $2.29 billion from $2.21 billion during the first eight months of 2024 while imports from Pakistan increased to $1.39 billion in the Jan-Aug’24 compared to $1.37 billion in the same period of 2023.
Driven by India’s inherent strengths and a strong policy framework encouraging investment and exports, the textile sector in India is likely to grow to $350 billion by 2030. Trade data of Aug’24 from the Ministry of Textiles shows, India’s RMG exports will grow by 11 per cent Y-o-Y during this period.
With end-to-end value chain capability, a strong raw material base, a large export footprint and a vibrant and rapidly expanding domestic market, India is a traditional leader in the textiles sector.
The Indian government has also launched a number of schemes and policy initiatives to leverage and catalyseits inherent strengths to help the textile sector achieve the targeted $350 billion goal by 2030. The government aims to attract Rs 90,000 crore of investment through PM Mega Integrated Textile Region and Apparel (PM MITRA) Park and Production Linked Incentive (PLI) Schemes in the next 3-5 years. It also aims to focus on schemes like the National Technical Textiles Mission to help India acquire leadership position in emerging sectors such as technical textiles.
After a gap of five years, lingerie brand Victoria's Secret will once again organise its annual fashion show on Oct 15 in New York. The show will feature the brand’s historic models including Tyra Banks, Gigi Hadid and Taylor Hill.
Victoria’s Secret had canceled its annual fashion in 2019, after various controversies, especially regarding the physicality cult of its models, erupted.In response, the company rebranded itself to embrace diversity, body positivity, and inclusivity. This shift included introducing a broader range of models of different sizes, ages, and backgrounds, and launching campaigns that focus on empowerment and authenticity.
In 2021, Victoria’s Secret introduced the VS Collective, a new group of brand ambassadors, which includes women like Priyanka Chopra Jonas, Megan Rapinoe, and Paloma Elsesser. These ambassadors are meant to represent a more inclusive and diverse vision for the brand, focusing on real stories and achievements rather than just physical appearance
A globally recognised American lingerie, clothing, and beauty retailer, Victoria’s Secret is known for its fashion-forward designs and iconic marketing campaigns. Established in 1977 by Roy Raymond in San Francisco, the brand quickly became a leader in the lingerie industry, offering a wide range of intimate apparel, sleepwear, activewear, and beauty products.
At the upcoming edition of ITMA Asia +CITME exhibition from Oct 14-18, 2024 in Shanghai, Itema will showcase its new range of weaving machines including the GalileoRX Rapier and P7300HP V8 Projectile Weaving Machines.
Launched in 2022 to address the specific needs of the Chinese and Asian textile markets, the Itema GalileoRX Rapier Machine is known for its ability to weave a wide range of fabrics with superior quality and precision.The 2.3-m-wide machine is equipped with a new generation machine console, a 15.6-inch capacitive touch screen and the fancy iSaver device to eliminate waste selvedge.
Aiming to demonstrate its ability to handle heavy weight fabrics, the 3.9-m-wide P7300HP V8 Projectile Weaving Machine will produce denim at the show. Currently, Itema is the sole manufacturer of this machine and continues to explore the weft insertion technology.
This year also marks the 70th anniversary of the official launch of TW11 – the first projectile weaving machine. First launched at the Mustermesse in Basel, Switzerland, in 1954, the TW11 revolutionised the weaving industry with its unique weft insertion system and ability to efficiently produce extra-wide and heavy fabrics, laying the groundwork for subsequent generations of projectile looms leading to today’s P7300HP V8.
Itema will also showcase other rapier weaving machines at the exhibition through partners including Huzhou Hyundai, Lilai, Tongxiang, Changfang, and Song&Song.
Mosaic Brands, an established name in Australian fashion retail landscape, has been struggling for years. The company, which owns brands like Millers, Rockmans, Noni B, Rivers, Katies, and others, recently announced the closure of several labels viz. Rockmans, Crossroads, Autograph, W. Lane, and BeMe and also numerous stores. This drastic move reflects deeper issues within the company and potentially within the wider retail sector.
What went wrong?
Several factors contributed to Mosaic Brands' decline. The company primarily caters to women over 50 that has a significant demography and is also highly competitive market. Perhaps that is why, brands like Katies and Millers may have struggled to differentiate themselves and attract younger customers, leading to stagnation. The rise of online shopping and fast fashion has dramatically changed the retail landscape. Consumers, even older demography, are increasingly drawn to online platforms offering greater variety, convenience, and competitive pricing. Mosaic Brands' online presence, while existing, may not have been robust enough to compete effectively.
Mosaic Brands owns numerous labels targeting similar demographics with overlapping styles. This likely led to internal competition and brand cannibalization, diluting customer loyalty and hindering individual brand growth. Rising inflation and cost-of-living pressures have impacted consumer spending, particularly discretionary items like clothing. This has may have squeezed Mosaic Brands' margins and contributed to its financial difficulties. Moreover, Mosaic Brands has been grappling with a significant debt load, which hindered its growth. In their most recent financial report, the company reported a net debt of $44.7 million. The company's share price has dropped over 90 per cent in the past five years and it has already closed hundreds of stores in recent years.
A mirror of the of the overall retail sector
While Mosaic Brands' struggles are specific to its circumstances, they also reflect a broader trend in the retail industry.
The rise of e-commerce: The shift to online shopping is undeniable. Brands that fail to adapt to this new reality face significant challenges. In fact, many traditional retailers like Sears, JCPenney, and some fashion giants have struggled to maintain their brick-and-mortar presence.
Changing consumer behavior: Consumers are more discerning and price-conscious. They demand value, convenience, and a personalized shopping experience. Brands that fail to meet these expectations risk losing market share.
Increased competition: The retail landscape is becoming increasingly competitive, with new players emerging constantly. Fast fashion brands like Shein and Temu, with their agile supply chains and low prices, are putting immense pressure on traditional retailers.
Many other Australian brands have faced similar fate in recent years. For example, Wesfarmers, which owns Kmart and Target, has also faced pressure from online competitors and changing consumer behavior. Similarly, Myer the department store chain has struggled to adapt to the rise of online shopping and has closed numerous stores in recent years. David Jones another department store chain is facing similar challenges to Myer.
Therefore, the challenges being faced by Mosaic Brands serves as a caution for other retailers. Adapting to changing retail landscape, embracing e-commerce, and offering a compelling customer experience are crucial for survival in today's competitive market.
Karl Mayer will highlight innovative solutions for the composite and grid production sectors at ITMA ASIA + CITME 2024, focusing on lucrative opportunities in technical textiles. The company’s presence at the Shanghai National Exhibition and Convention Center will showcase carbon fabrics for lightweight construction applications, targeting both traditional warp knitting customers and new prospects in the carbon composites market.
Two innovative warp knitting machines will be featured at a concurrent in-house show in Changzhou starting October 13. The Weft, upgraded for improved performance, will produce lightweight fabrics for outerwear and interlinings. With a 247 working width and 20 per cent performance boost, this model addresses market demand.
Also debuting is the Weft Grid Eco machine, designed for efficient production of lightweight glass grid structures, mainly for the construction industry. With a working width of 245 and 1,800 rpm speed, it offers a 12 per cent speed increase and is 20 per cent cheaper than its predecessor, the Wefttronic II G.
Jan Stahr, Sales Manager for Karl Mayer’s Technical Textiles unit, anticipates strong interest from both domestic and international customers. This marks Karl Mayer 's first major trade fair participation in Asia since the pandemic.
On October 10, 2024, Lenzing AG's Extraordinary General Meeting elected three new members to its Supervisory Board. Marcelo Feriozzi Bacci, Carlos Aníbal de Almeida Junior, and Markus Furst will serve until the Annual General Meeting addressing the 2028 business year.
Following these appointments, the board now consists of ten members elected by the General Meeting: Carlos Aníbal de Almeida Junior, Cornelius Baur, Helmut Bernkopf, Marcelo Feriozzi Bacci, Stefan Fida, Markus Fürst, Franz Gasselsberger, Cord Prinzhorn, Gerhard Schwartz, and Astrid Skala-Kuhmann. Additionally, five members were appointed by the Works Council.
Former members Christian Bruch, Nicole van der Elst Desai, and Melody Harris-Jensbach have resigned, with Lenzing AG expressing gratitude for their service.
In a subsequent Supervisory Board meeting, Cord Prinzhorn was elected Chairman, Marcelo Feriozzi Bacci was named 1st Vice Chairman, and Stefan Fida was elected 2nd Vice Chairman.
Baldwin Technology, part of BW Converting, will present its TexCoat G4 precision spray system at ITMA Asia 2024 in Shanghai from October 14-18, targeting sustainable textile finishing. As brands, consumers, and regulators increasingly emphasize sustainability, Baldwin aims to meet the demand for eco-friendly production methods with its advanced spray technology.
The TexCoat G4 system offers significant environmental benefits by reducing water, chemical, and energy consumption by up to 50 per cent compared to traditional pad-dry-cure processes. It applies chemicals precisely where needed on fabrics, eliminating waste. The system uses the same chemicals as conventional methods but with more efficiency, aligning with the industry's sustainability goals.
At the event, visitors can view fabric samples treated with TexCoat G4, and Baldwin’s team will discuss the system’s role in reducing carbon footprints and enhancing cost-efficiency.
Baldwin’s recent collaboration with Monforts and Archroma strengthens its commitment to sustainable solutions. This partnership integrates Monforts’ finishing equipment and Archroma’s chemistries with TexCoat G4 technology, aiming to improve dyeing and finishing processes for manufacturers in Bangladesh, China, India, and Pakistan.
BW Converting’s VP, Rick Stanford, highlighted the system’s success in Asia, noting that investments in TexCoat G4 offer both environmental and financial benefits.
The TexCoat G4 exemplifies Baldwin’s vision for greener textile production, providing a win-win for manufacturers and the planet.
