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Marking a significant milestone in its mission to transition the textile industry from a linear to a circular model, non-profit organisation Accelerating Circularity will launch its Global Cotton Report at the upcoming Circularity24 conference in Chicago next month
A culmination of exhaustive system trials conducted in both the US and Europe, the report offers valuable insights into the feasibility, scalability, and impact of circular textile-to-textile recycling processes. It represents Accelerating Circularity's commitment to reshaping the textile industry into a more sustainable and environmentally friendly sector.
One of the key highlights of the report is the successful development and market introduction of various trial products, including cotton and cotton-blend garments, which demonstrate the viability of achieving substantial recycled content goals. These trials mark a pivotal step towards reducing the industry's environmental footprint and aligning with global sustainability targets.
Sarah Coulter, Representative, Accelerating Circularity, emphasises on the collaborative nature of the organisation. The organisation brings together stakeholders across the value chain to drive innovation and action in the textile industry, she says. According to Coulter, more than just a collection of findings, the Global Cotton Report is a blueprint for transformative change.
Attendees of the Circularity24 conference will have the opportunity to delve into the report's findings, gaining a deeper understanding of circular textile production and the collaborative model that underpins these achievements. The event will serve as a platform for knowledge exchange, networking, and empowerment for individuals dedicated to catalysing systemic change within the economy.
In his address at the National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) 20th Annual Meeting, Chairman Norman Chapman painted a stark picture of the US textile industry's struggle against economic turmoil exacerbated by unfair trade practices and customs fraud. Emphasizing the industry's vital role in the economy, particularly in national defense and public health, Chapman highlighted the urgent need for action to counteract the damaging effects of predatory trade behavior.
Despite the industry's resilience and innovative spirit, Chapman acknowledged the severity of the crisis, attributing it to deteriorating market conditions and lax customs enforcement. The consequences, including historic inflationary pressures, weak consumer demand, and a contraction in manufacturing, have been profound, not only for domestic producers but also for hemispheric partners reliant on US free trade agreements.
NCTO's advocacy efforts, however, have not gone unnoticed. Chapman underscored the organization's successful collaboration with Congress and the Biden administration in addressing critical issues facing the industry. From intensifying pressure to close loopholes facilitating illegal trade to safeguarding free trade agreements and enhancing government procurement of US textile-based products, NCTO's achievements have reverberated at the highest levels of government.
One notable milestone was President Joe Biden's historic visit to an NCTO member facility, symbolizing recognition of the industry's competitiveness and economic significance. Yet, the road ahead remains fraught with challenges, necessitating continued engagement with policymakers to shape effective policies supporting industry growth and resilience.
Key among NCTO's policy priorities is strengthening customs enforcement, particularly against unfair trade practices and fraudulent activities. With a focus on combating slave labor and origin fraud, NCTO has rallied bipartisan support and secured commitments from government agencies to address enforcement concerns.
The Section 321 De Minimis provision, a contentious issue in US trade law, has been a focal point of NCTO's advocacy efforts. By highlighting its detrimental impact on domestic producers and advocating for legislative action, NCTO aims to close this loophole and level the playing field for American manufacturers.
Looking ahead, NCTO remains committed to navigating economic uncertainties and trade challenges, leveraging partnerships with Western Hemisphere allies and capitalizing on onshoring and nearshoring trends. Chapman expressed confidence in the industry's ability to overcome obstacles and reinforce its position as a cornerstone of the US economy, underscoring the importance of industry leadership and engagement in shaping favorable policy outcomes.
Beyours, a trailblazer in men's fashion, reaffirms its dominance with a recent survey unveiling strong consumer preferences and sales data. Leading the charge is the timeless classic shirt, capturing a substantial 34 per cent of the brand's total sales.
Following closely are the versatile Air Joggers and functional Air Cargo pants, securing 16 per cent and 10 per cent of sales respectively. This underscores Beyours' unique ability to seamlessly blend traditional elegance with modern functionality, resonating profoundly with consumers' tastes and lifestyle needs.
Looking forward, Beyours prepares to redefine men's fashion standards with a range of upcoming products. Among these are the innovative Stain & Water Repellent Hybrid Trousers, catering to the modern man's demand for both style and durability. Additionally, the Easy Linen Trousers offer a blend of comfort and elegance, ideal for warmer seasons.
In a bold stride towards inclusivity, Beyours announces plans for a women's wear line, aiming to cater to a broader audience and meet the increasing demand for high-quality, stylish clothing. Founders Ashish and Nilesh express their commitment to innovation and quality, promising products that exceed customer expectations.
This announcement marks a pivotal moment for Beyours as it solidifies its position as an industry leader, known for quality, style, and innovative designs. Beyours sets the standard for men's fashion and is poised to make a significant impact in women's fashion as well.
Uniqlo's story in China is one of explosive growth. Entering the market in 2002, it capitalized on the country's rising middle class and growing demand for high-quality basics at affordable prices. Uniqlo's focus on innovation, like its HeatTech thermal wear, and its commitment to functionality resonated with Chinese consumers. By 2023, Uniqlo had over 1000 stores in China, dwarfing its presence in any other market.
Uniqlo's rise in China
Uniqlo entered China in 2002, capitalizing on the country's booming economy and growing middle class. Their affordable, high-quality basics resonated with Chinese consumers. Here's what trigger their success.
Value proposition: Uniqlo offered stylish yet practical clothing at competitive prices, a sweet spot for value-conscious Chinese shoppers.
Strategic locations: The brand established itself in major cities with high foot traffic, ensuring maximum exposure.
Localization: Uniqlo catered to local preferences by offering HeatTech innerwear for cold winters and airy fabrics for hot summers.
Shifting tides, reasons behind store closures
Despite the initial success, Uniqlo's China dream seems to be facing some challenges. Several factors are contributing to the store closures:
One major reason is saturation, with over 1,000 stores, Uniqlo might have reached a saturation point in some areas. This can lead to cannibalization, where new stores eat into the sales of existing ones. Despite the vast store network, sales haven't reached the heights achieved in Japan. As CFO Takeshi Okazaki admitted to the Nikkei, "the company’s goal is to achieve similar average store sales in China as in Japan within 10 years." This ambitious target exposes the underperformance of many existing stores. In fact, Okazaki says, beyond August 2025, there’s a possibility of maintaining a low net increase in store numbers. This shift suggests a move towards a more strategic store network, focusing on prime locations and high-traffic areas.
Shifting consumer preferences is another factor. Chinese consumers are becoming more fashion-forward, demanding greater variety and trendier designs. Uniqlo's core focus on basics may not be enough to keep up. Increased competition from other players like H&M and Zara, has squeezed Uniqlo's market share.
China's e-commerce market is thriving, and consumers are increasingly comfortable shopping online. Uniqlo needs to adapt its online strategy to capture this growing segment.
Table: Uniqlo’s store and sales
Uniqlo stores in China (as of August 2023): 1,031
Uniqlo stores in Japan (as of August 2023): 800
Uniqlo's sales in China (as of August 2023): Yen 620.2 billion
Uniqlo's sales in Japan (as of August 2023): Yen 890.4 billion
Managing the challenge
Uniqlo's plan to address this challenge is multifaceted. Closing unprofitable stores is just one part of the equation. While closing underperforming stores and its opening new ones in high-traffic areas, with this Uniqlo aims to improve average store sales and profitability.
The company also aims to boost its online presence. E-commerce sales in China already contribute 20 per cent compared to 15 per cent in Japan, and Fast Retailing wants to further leverage this channel.
Impact on China's fashion retail
Uniqlo's presence has significantly impacted China's fashion retail landscape. They introduced the concept of high-quality basics at affordable prices, which many domestic brands have adopted. While Uniqlo's store closures might create some short-term disruption, it could also push domestic brands to further innovate and differentiate themselves.
In fact, Uniqlo's struggles serve as a cautionary tale for other foreign retailers in China. The market is dynamic, and consumer preferences evolve rapidly. Uniqlo's experience underscores the need for continuous innovation and adaptation to stay ahead of the curve. While the store closures might have a localized impact on employment and competition, the overall fashion retail landscape in China is likely to remain vibrant, driven by domestic players and new entrants.
As predicted by textile trendsetter, Italtex the autumn/winter 2024 promises to be luxurious and eco-conscious season with cotton taking the center stage in collection with a focus on rich colors, playful textures, and sustainable practices.
Here's a peek at a few of these exciting upcoming trends in cotton:
1. Rising supremacy of lilac & purple: This season, cotton embraces elegance with purple and soft lilac hues adorning jacquards. These would sometimes be paired with bold abstract prints. The color purple will take on various forms ranging from classic suits to modern tweeds, thus offering something for every style.
2. Modern twist to winter blues: Winter blues will get a refreshingly modern twist as they intertwine with grays in jacquard wool coats. Graphic motifs and unexpected details like 3D-printed flowers will adorn knit felt. The shade blue will be combined with cream and red in chunky tweeds to give them a more sporty look. Cotton knits will be transformed with shimmering chenille and playful transparency effects. Rich, velvety blues with eye-catching prints will add a touch of drama to the outfit.
3. A sensual touch to black: This season black takes on a sensual and innovative approach with intricate embroideries on delicate tulles creating a captivating lace-like effect. Boldness will rule with shiny coatings on geometric jacquard jerseys. Textures take center stage with embossing on lightweight fabrics and technical applications on parachute cloth, softened by beautiful embroidery. Ultra-light jerseys will showcase tattoo like patterns with their stunning interplay between opacity and transparency.
Thus, the cotton fabric trends for A/W 2024 promise a captivating blend of timeless elegance, eco-conscious practices, and cutting-edge innovation.
Marks and Spencer (M&S) is aiming to be a net zero business by 2040 and has launched a £1 million fund to accelerate this goal. The Plan A Accelerator Fund will support innovative projects with existing and new suppliers.
One project involves a first-of-its-kind clothing recycling trial with Oxfam. Unwearable clothes donated to Oxfam will be turned into new materials, preventing them from going to landfill. This aligns with M&S's focus on a circular fashion economy.
Another project uses AI to optimize heating and ventilation in stores, potentially saving thousands of tons of carbon annually if rolled out across all stores.
Other initiatives include exploring green hydrogen fuel, a shoe recycling program, and agricultural tech using eco-friendly methods.
M&S CEO Stuart Machin emphasizes the company's commitment to innovation and collaboration to achieve net zero. He highlights the potential of these projects to make a significant impact on climate challenges.
This comes after M&S invested in Nobody's Child, an eco-conscious fashion brand, and saw a sales increase in clothing and home ranges, suggesting a positive response to their sustainability efforts.
Polyester product exports from China, a major global supplier, have dipped in the first two months of 2024, raising concerns about the industry's health. According to customs data, total exports reached nearly 1.803 million tons, down 18,000 tons year-on-year. This decline is primarily driven by significant drops in polyester filament yarn (PFY) and staple fiber exports, falling 63,000 tons and 26,000 tons respectively.
Reasons for the decline
Several factors might be contributing to the decrease in Chinese polyester exports.
• Weakening global demand: The global economic slowdown and rising inflation in key markets like Europe and the US could be dampening demand for polyester products.
• Shifting production base: The textile industry's migration to Southeast Asian countries like Vietnam could be impacting China's polyester exports as these countries establish their own production capabilities.
• Post-lunar New Year slump: The data might not be fully representative due to seasonal fluctuations. The pre-holiday stocking and bullish market sentiment before the Lunar New Year might have led to inflated expectations, resulting in a post-holiday order cool down.
Impact on global polyester business
The decline in Chinese exports, particularly of filament yarn and staple fiber, could lead to a temporary surplus in the global market, potentially putting downward pressure on prices. While filament yarn and staple fiber exports fell, the story highlights a rise in downstream polyester yarn and woven fabrics exports. This suggests that manufacturers in other countries might be picking up the slack, but the long-term impact remains unclear.
Table: (Jan-Feb 2024 vs. YoY) - Key Products (in thousand tons)
|
Product |
Exports (2024) |
Change (YoY) |
|
Polyester Filament Yarn (PFY) |
601 |
-63 |
|
Polyester Staple Fiber (PSF) |
169 |
-26 |
While the initial data shows a decrease in exports, the broader picture remains complex: Despite the decline in filament yarn and staple fiber exports, other segments of the polyester industry chain, like polyester filament woven fabrics, have shown growth . This suggests continued downstream demand for polyester products.
However, further observation is needed to understand the long-term impact on demand. The post-holiday order cool down might be temporary, and the full-year picture could be different.
The future of Chinese polyester exports and the global market depends on several factors.
• Post-pandemic recovery: The global economic recovery post-pandemic will significantly influence demand for polyester products.
• Geopolitical tensions: Trade tensions or disruptions in raw material supply chains could further impact exports.
• Sustainable practices: Growing consumer preference for sustainable clothing could push the industry towards recycled polyester, potentially impacting demand for virgin polyester.
The initial decline in Chinese polyester exports in 2024 warrants close monitoring. While the reasons for the decline are not entirely clear, a combination of global economic factors, industry shifts, and seasonal fluctuations could be at play. The impact on the global market and the future demand-supply situation remain uncertain and require further analysis.
The cotton shirt, a wardrobe staple for generations, is facing a new challenge: man-made fibers (MMF). This shift in the global shirt industry is driven by a confluence of factors – functionality, affordability, and ever-evolving fashion trends.
A balancing, cost vs performance
Cotton reigns supreme in breathability and comfort, but its price fluctuations and water-intensive cultivation cast a shadow. Studies reveal that MMF currently holds a staggering 70% share in global fiber consumption. "Consumers are willing to pay more for a shirt that offers superior performance and comfort," says Sarah Jones, a textile analyst. Brands are responding with a spectrum of options catering to diverse budgets and needs. Synthetic fibers, generally cheaper to produce, are a boon for fast fashion and budget-conscious consumers. Fast fashion giant H&M exemplifies this by actively incorporating recycled polyester into their clothing lines, touting affordability alongside sustainability benefits.
Function reigns supreme
Beyond cost, synthetic fibers offer functionalities that cotton struggles to match. Analysts at Apparel Views highlight the growing demand for performance-driven textiles. Polyester and nylon blends, renowned for their wrinkle resistance, require minimal ironing – a major perk in today's fast-paced world. "Synthetic fibers offer features like wrinkle resistance, moisture-wicking, and durability," points out Faruk Hasan, President of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA). These features are particularly sought after in activewear and performance shirts, but are increasingly finding their way into everyday wear as well.
The rise of blends
While synthetics are gaining ground, pure polyester isn't the only story. Blended fabrics, particularly cotton-polyester mixes, offer a middle ground. Industry estimates suggest MMF already hold a significant 70% share of global fiber consumption. These blends combine the breathability of cotton with the wrinkle resistance and affordability of synthetics. The future likely lies in even more innovative hybrid fabrics that bridge the gap between comfort and functionality.
Regenerated cellulose fibers like rayon are gaining traction for being a natural alternative to synthetics while maintaining some of their functional benefits. Some studies indicate rayon has displaced wool in many important uses, including shirting, due to its affordability and comfort. Fashion trends also play a role. The rise of athleisure and activewear, with their focus on moisture-wicking and flexibility, has pushed up demand for synthetic fabrics designed specifically for performance. Patagonia, a leader in outdoor apparel, exemplifies this trend. Their ‘Capilene Cool Lightweight Shirt’ is made with a recycled polyester blend that prioritizes moisture-wicking and breathability, perfect for active pursuits.
A global landscape woven with diverse fabrics
The shift towards synthetics isn't uniform across the globe. The US market, for example, presents a complex picture. While synthetics dominate apparel consumption (around 75 per cent), cotton imports still hold a slight edge over man-made fibers. Rising oil prices, which impact synthetic fiber production, could temporarily swing the pendulum back towards cotton.
The European market shows a growing interest in sustainable alternatives. Regenerated cellulose fibers, like viscose rayon derived from wood pulp, are gaining traction due to their eco-friendly appeal. However, even in Europe, the demand for wrinkle-free and easy-care shirts is driving a rise in synthetic blends.
The future of shirt fabrics likely lies in innovation. Sustainable alternatives like Tencel, a wood-based fiber, are gaining traction. "We're seeing a growing interest in eco-friendly synthetics made from recycled materials," says Marie Dubois, a fashion designer specializing in sustainable clothing. The industry is also exploring new ways to improve the comfort and breathability of synthetics, potentially blurring the lines between natural and man-made fibers.
The cotton shirt may not be facing extinction, but the industry is clearly weaving a new narrative. Consumers seeking function, affordability, and sustainability will have a wider range of fabrics to choose from, ensuring a comfortable and stylish fit for the future.
Propelled by the performance of its flagship brand Uniqlo in North America, Europe and South-East Asia, Japanese ready-to-wear group, Fast Retailing reported exceptional half-year results. The company has slightly adjusted its full-year profit forecast following these promising figures.
The company’s net profit during the first half, spanning from September 2023 to February 2024, rose by 27.7 cent to 195.9 billion yen (approximately €1.2 billion). The company’s operating profit also increased by 16.7 per cent Y-o-Y to 257 billion yen.
Sales of the company increased by 9 per cent to 1,598.9 billion yen. This growth was driven primarly by Uniqlo's robust international performance, alongside the contribution of the group's second major brand, GU.
However, the company registered a 2 per cent decline in the Uniqlo sales in domestic market in Japan Fast Retailing attributed this underperformance to insufficient product offerings tailored for a warmer-than-usual winter, as well as communication issues regarding its products.
Similarly, in China, Uniqlo faced challenges due to a milder winter and a slowdown in consumer spending.
The group's other brands, including Theory, PLST, Comptoir des Cotonniers, and Princesse tam.tam, reported a slight decrease in total sales by 1.2 per cent Y-o-Y and incurred an operating loss of 1.7 billion yen (€103 million).
Fast Retailing mentioned that the reduction in the number of Comptoir des Cotonniers shops by 10 per cent compared to the previous year contributed to the decline in sales.
Despite these challenges, the company remains optimistic about achieving record results for the fiscal year 2023/24. It has raised its annual profit forecast by 8 per cent Y-o-Y to 320 billion yen. However, it slightly adjusted its sales forecast to 3,030 billion yen, maintaining robust sales growth at 9.5 per cent Y-o-Y.
Propelled by the performance of its flagship brand Uniqlo in North America, Europe and South-East Asia, Japanese ready-to-wear group, Fast Retailing reported exceptional half-year results. The company has slightly adjusted its full-year profit forecast following these promising figures.
The company’s net profit during the first half, spanning from September 2023 to February 2024, rose by 27.7 cent to 195.9 billion yen (approximately €1.2 billion). The company’s operating profit also increased by 16.7 per cent Y-o-Y to 257 billion yen.
Sales of the company increased by 9 per cent to 1,598.9 billion yen. This growth was driven primarly by Uniqlo's robust international performance, alongside the contribution of the group's second major brand, GU.
However, the company registered a 2 per cent decline in the Uniqlo sales in domestic market in Japan Fast Retailing attributed this underperformance to insufficient product offerings tailored for a warmer-than-usual winter, as well as communication issues regarding its products.
Similarly, in China, Uniqlo faced challenges due to a milder winter and a slowdown in consumer spending.
The group's other brands, including Theory, PLST, Comptoir des Cotonniers, and Princesse tam.tam, reported a slight decrease in total sales by 1.2 per cent Y-o-Y and incurred an operating loss of 1.7 billion yen (€103 million).
Fast Retailing mentioned that the reduction in the number of Comptoir des Cotonniers shops by 10 per cent compared to the previous year contributed to the decline in sales.
Despite these challenges, the company remains optimistic about achieving record results for the fiscal year 2023/24. It has raised its annual profit forecast by 8 per cent Y-o-Y to 320 billion yen. However, it slightly adjusted its sales forecast to 3,030 billion yen, maintaining robust sales growth at 9.5 per cent Y-o-Y.
