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The Indian textiles, apparel and retail industry has around 4 per cent representation in the Fortune 500 India list featuring around 15 textile and apparel companies alongwith six retail companies.
The textile and apparel companies named in the list include Raymond, PDS, Welspun India, Vardhman Textiles, Century Textile & Industries, Arvind, Trident, Bombay Dyeing, KPR Mills, Alok Industries, Page Industries, Filatex India and RSWM.
The companies listed in the retail sector, either associated with apparel or completely involved in apparel retail include companies like Avenue Supermarts, Aditya Birla Fashion & Retail, Trent, Lifestyle International, Shoppers Stop and Arvind Fashions.
No new companies were listed in the textile, apparel and fashion retail sectors while rankings of three companies in the textile and apparel sector increased while the rankings of ten companies decline. Rankings of two retail companies increased while those of four companies declined.
The fashion industry continues to grapple with the complexities of sourcing cotton from Xinjiang, China, amidst allegations of forced labor. While many brands have pledged to avoid Xinjiang cotton, recent tests reveal its presence in nearly 20 per cent of apparel sold by major retailers in the US and worldwide. This raises concerns about the efficacy of current supply chain tracing mechanisms and the ability of brands to adhere to ethical sourcing standards.
Navigating the backlash and supply chain obfuscation
Japanese clothing company Fast Retailing owners of brand Uniqlo, recently faced backlash from Chinese consumers after its CEO stated the company does not use Xinjiang cotton. The Xinjiang Cotton Association issued a statement to refute claims on forced labor in response to remarks made by Tadashi Yanai, CEO of Fast Retailing, parent company of global fashion brand Uniqlo, in an interview with the BBC on November 28, in which he said his company is not using cotton from Xinjiang. The Association emphasized that Xinjiang cotton is one of the best in the world and strongly opposes the US using the so-called "forced labor" claims and other baseless reasons to discredit and boycott Xinjiang cotton and its products.
This incident highlights the tightrope brands walk between adhering to ethical standards and maintaining access to the lucrative Chinese market. Uniqlo's case also exemplifies the challenges of ensuring transparency in complex global supply chains. While the company claims to avoid Xinjiang cotton, one of its major suppliers, Lu Thai Textile, has historical ties with the region. Although recent reports suggest Lu Thai may have shifted its sourcing practices, the case underscores the difficulty of guaranteeing the origin of materials in multi-tiered supply chains.
All about sourcing and loopholes
The UFLPA, enacted in 2022, closed a loophole that allowed goods under $800 to enter the US without thorough customs checks. This loophole was previously exploited to import Xinjiang cotton by shipping it in small packages, bypassing scrutiny.
However, new methods of obfuscating the origin of Xinjiang cotton have emerged. One tactic involves exporting Xinjiang cotton to intermediary countries, where it is blended with local cotton and manufactured into finished goods. This makes it nearly impossible to trace the cotton back to its origin, effectively circumventing the UFLPA.
Table: Key players and their stance on Xinjiang cotton
|
Brand |
Stance on Xinjiang cotton |
Challenges |
|
Uniqlo |
Claims to avoid Xinjiang cotton |
Supply chain ties to Lu Thai Textile, facing backlash from Chinese consumers |
|
H&M, Adidas, Nike, Burberry |
Publicly distanced themselves from Xinjiang cotton |
Potential presence of Xinjiang cotton in supply chains despite efforts to avoid it |
|
Lu Thai Textile |
Previously sourced exclusively from Xinjiang, now claims to source cotton overseas |
Transparency concerns, historical ties to Xinjiang raise questions about current sourcing practices |
It maybe noted that in 2021, Xinjiang accounted for 85 per cent of China's cotton production and nearly 25 per cent of global supply. However, following forced labor allegations, the China Cotton Association estimated an 8 per cent drop in Xinjiang's cotton production in 2023 and a 5 per cent reduction in planting areas. Tests reveal traces of Xinjiang cotton in nearly 20 per cent of apparel sold by major retailers globally, despite efforts to avoid it.
The issue of Xinjiang cotton continues to challenge global brands. Balancing ethical sourcing with maintaining market access in China requires a delicate approach. While regulations like the UFLPA aim to prevent the import of goods linked to forced labor, the complexity of global supply chains and the emergence of new methods to obfuscate the origin of materials highlight the need for ongoing vigilance and stricter enforcement. The question remains: can brands truly guarantee their products are free from Xinjiang cotton, and can consumers trust those claims?
The 2024 Cotton Day event in Dhaka was marked by a strong statement from Showkat Aziz Russell, President of the Bangladesh Textile Mills Association (BTMA). His concerns over the reliability of Indian cotton imports have reignited a long-simmering debate between the two South Asian neighbors.
"A big portion of cotton comes from India," Russell pointed out, "But we want to shy away from India. Because, whenever our demand increases...they increase the price unethically or holding the shipment without valid reasons." He further criticized the lack of organic certification for cotton purchased from India, despite assurances from sellers.
This isn't the first time Bangladesh has aired such grievances. As the world's second-largest apparel exporter, Bangladesh heavily relies on cotton imports to fuel its massive garment industry. India, with its proximity and competitive pricing, has been a dominant supplier. However, the relationship has been punctuated by accusations of price manipulation, unpredictable export policies, and quality concerns.
Table: Historical tensions and data
Year Indian cotton exports to Bangladesh (in bales) Major issues 2010-11 1.8 million India imposed a ban on cotton exports, causing price spikes and supply disruptions in Bangladesh. 2016-17 2.8 million Concerns over dependence on a single source; price volatility due to Indian export policy fluctuations. 2020-21 2.2 million Delays in shipments and phytosanitary certification issues reported. 2023-24 (Data pending) Allegations of price gouging during periods of high demand; organic certification discrepancies.
A Chequered past
There is a history of tensions around cotton imports from India to Bangladesh. In 2010, India abruptly banned cotton exports, citing domestic needs. This sent shockwaves through the Bangladeshi textile industry, causing massive disruptions and price increases. The ban was eventually lifted, but the episode left deep scars and fueled distrust among Bangladeshi manufacturers. Allegations of price rise during period of high demand, certification issues etc have long plagued cotton trade between the two neighbours.
Indian perspective
Indian authorities and exporters have traditionally defended their practices. They argue that price fluctuations are a natural consequence of market forces and that any export restrictions are implemented to ensure domestic supply stability. They also point to efforts to improve trade relations, such as simplifying customs procedures and enhancing infrastructure at border points. As a a representative of the Cotton Association of India points out, "Indian exporters operate in a free market. Prices are determined by supply and demand. We are committed to fulfilling our export obligations."
However, the fact is the concerns raised by BTMA's president highlight the need for greater transparency and stability in the India-Bangladesh cotton trade. While geographical proximity and economic factors favor continued trade, both sides must address the underlying trust deficit. Meanwhile, Bangladesh is actively seeking to diversify its cotton import sources, exploring options in Africa and other regions. And calls for stronger bilateral agreements and dispute resolution mechanisms are growing louder. The future of this crucial trade partnership hinges on the willingness of both nations to forge a more equitable and reliable relationship.
The Saudi Retail Forum (SRF) 2024, held on December 10 at the JW Marriott Hotel Riyadh, gathered retail leaders and innovators to explore transformative strategies for the Saudi Arabian and MENA retail sector.
Apparel Group stood out at the event, clinching seven prestigious awards at the RetailME Awards 2024. These accolades highlight the company’s unwavering commitment to sustainability, technological advancement, and impactful brand campaigns, solidifying its leadership in the global retail industry.
The group earned the Responsible Retailer of the Year and Tech Adaptor of the Year awards in the corporate category, reflecting its focus on sustainable practices and innovation. Its brand Athletes Co was recognized as Retailer of the Year, while Rituals secured the Brand Campaign of the Year in Beauty award. Additionally, Dune London and Allo Beirut won Brand Campaign of the Year awards, further demonstrating Apparel Group’s excellence in impactful marketing.
Aligned with Vision 2023, SRF 2024 emphasized empowering local retailers and integrating global strategies to drive retail transformation in Saudi Arabia.
Among the keynote speakers were Neeraj Teckchandani, CEO of Apparel Group, and Hesham Almekkawi, CEO of Tim Hortons- Middle East. Teckchandani highlighted the company’s innovative initiatives, stating, “At Apparel Group, we believe in the power of collaboration and innovation to drive growth and transformation in the retail sector. SRF 2024 was a vital platform for exchanging an innovative ideas and shaping the future of retail.”
The Saudi Retail Forum continues to serve as a dynamic hub for sharing insights, addressing challenges, and fostering innovation, positioning itself as a cornerstone in the evolution of the region’s retail industry.
India’s Ready-Made Garment (RMG) sector continues to demonstrate robust export growth despite global economic headwinds, signaling a rising demand for Indian-made products. Sudhir Sekhri, Chairman of the Apparel Export Promotion Council (AEPC), highlighted the sector's resilience, stating, “While overall exports declined, apparel exports have withstood challenges, showcasing their ability to adapt. With changing geopolitical dynamics, India is poised for significant growth as businesses shift towards us.”
RMG exports for November 2024 grew by 9.8 per cent compared to November 2023 but saw a 6.6 per cent decline from November 2022. Cumulatively, exports from April to November 2024-25 reached $9,853.9 million, marking an 11.4 per cent increase over the same period in 2023-24, though a 4.9 per cent drop from 2022-23.
Sekhri attributed this growth to India’s comprehensive value chain, strong raw material base, and sustainable manufacturing practices. He noted rising demand from key markets like the USA and UK and green shoots from Free Trade Agreement (FTA) partners such as Australia, Korea, Japan, Netherlands, and UAE.
Encouraging international buyers to visit the Bharat Tex Expo 2025, Sekhri emphasized the platform’s role in showcasing India’s entire textile value chain and fostering collaboration. The Bharat Tex Roadshow has already garnered significant interest globally.
To further boost the sector, AEPC has urged the government to enhance the interest equalization rate to 5 per cent and implement the PLI 2.0 scheme for all garment types. Sekhri remains optimistic that these measures will drive exponential growth and reinforce India’s position as a leading sourcing destination for global brands.
The 64th edition of one of Europe’s most established and long-running trade shows, the bi-annual Copenhagen International Fashion Fair (CIFF) will feature 1,200 brands alongside an enhanced program of brand showcases, interactive installations, retail integrations and live performances. The trade show will be held on 34,000 sq m in January 2025.
CIFF has also launched the CIFF Media, an innovative media platform to empower emerging and established fashion brands to expand their visibility. Combining video content, podcasts, and editorial storytelling, CIFF Media enables brands to share their narratives and values more effectively. Participating brands can showcase their design processes, aspirations and market strength in cost-effective way by leverage an access to an in-house TV and podcast studio, social media activations, and communication specialists.
This initiative responds to the increasing emphasis on brand marketing within the fashion industry. According to the State of Fashion 2024 Executive Survey by BoF and McKinsey, 71 per cent of fashion executives plan to increase spending on brand marketing, compared to 46 per cent focusing on performance marketing. Similarly, younger consumers are placing greater importance on aligning with brand identities: a 2024 Ipsos study revealed that 69 per cent of Gen Z and 77 per cent of teen shoppers agree that their clothing choices reflect their personalities.
CIFF Media provides brands with tailored support, including strategic storytelling, retailer matchmaking, ongoing visibility.
CIFF has also forged strategic partnerships with leading organisations such as Pitti Uomo, Camera Nazionale della Moda, and ISPO Munich to broaden its international reach. Reflecting its commitment to foster global connections and support brands in adjacent markets, the event has also collaborated with the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) and sports trade show ISPO Munich,
Valued at $81.95 billion in 2023, the global cotton yarn market is projected to grow at a CAGR of 4.10 per cent from 2024-2032 to $117.69 billion by 2032. As per a report by SNS Insider, this growth is likely to be fueled by an increasing demand for sustainable, high-quality textiles across fashion, home furnishings, and industrial applications. The shift toward eco-friendly production and the rising popularity of organic cotton yarn, which eliminates synthetic pesticides and fertilisers, are driving advancements in the market.
Enhancing the market for eco-friendly yarn, sustainability initiatives such as the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) are promoting responsible cotton farming across the globe. In 2023, the carded yard segment held approximately 48 per cent share in the global cotton market on account of its cost-effectiveness and suitability for basic textiles and garments. Meanwhile, driven by a demand for premium apparel and home textiles, particularly in the developed markets, the combed yarn segment is growing at the fastest.
In 2023, propelled by the fashion industry’s need for breathable and comfortable fabrics, demand in the cotton sector was dominated by apparel segment with over 60 per cent market share,
Cotton yarn is widely used in producing T-shirts, shirts, jeans, and other garments. The home textiles segment, including bed linens, curtains, and towels, also grew as rising disposable incomes boosted spending on home improvement. Additionally, industrial textiles are being increasingly adopted in the automotive and medical segments.
Driven by thriving textile industries in China, India, Bangladesh, and Vietnam, Asia-Pacific led the global cotton yarn market in 2023 with a 52 per cent share. India’s abundant raw cotton supply and government schemes like TUFS supported its leadership. In North America, demand for organic cotton yarn rose, particularly in the US and Canada, where consumers favor sustainable textiles.
Held on December 12, 2024, in Coimbatore, India, Cotton Day 2024 emphasised on a collaboration between US Cotton and the Indian textile industry to help drive the global cotton value chain forward.
Organised by Cotton Council International (CCI), the event highlighted the rapid growth of the US Cotton Trust Protocol program. William Bettendorf, Director, Cotton USA Supply Chain for South Asia, stated, the Trust Protocol’s exponential growth not only strengthens supply chains but also unlock new opportunities for Indian mills and brands.
Focusing on the role of Supima cotton in the global textile market, Marc Lewkowitz, President & CEO, Supima, stated, paired with the innovative AQRe™ Project platform, the premium quality of Supima cotton helps Indian manufacturers meet international demands with precision, responsibility, and authenticity. The partnership between these two entities reflects a shared vision for a sustainable and innovative future for the textile industry, affirms Lewkowitz.
The event also addressed the impact of import duty removal on Extra Long Staple (ELS) cotton. This policy change has not only made high-quality US Pima fiber more accessible to Indian mills but also enhanced India’s global competitiveness significantly, it added
Highlighting the importance of strengthening US-India collaboration to foster sustainable practices and meet evolving global market demands, Peush Narang, Representative, Cotton Council International, advocated for removing of the import duty on US Upland Cotton to provide Indian spinning mills greater access to high-quality fiber, enhancing competitiveness and sustainability.
The event also introduced the Mill Performance Index, a live dashboard for tracking and optimising mill productivity, demonstrated how data-driven tools can revolutionise operations.
Additionally, it showcased advancements in traceability solutions, including contributions from the US Cotton Industry, Textile Genesis, and Oritain, highlighting how technology can enhance transparency and build consumer trust.
Delving into the emerging trends impacting the fashion industry, industry experts at the event offered insights into the key factors shaping the future of fashion retail in India. They focused on the importance of innovation, sustainability, and global collaboration in maintaining competitiveness in the dynamic market.
Premiere Vision New York, the leading sourcing platform for North American fashion, is set to return on January 14-15, 2025, at the iconic Tribeca 360° venue. This year’s edition will focus on forward-thinking materials, trends, and innovations for the Spring/Summer 2026 season, reinforcing its position as the top destination for creative, sustainable fashion solutions.
The event will feature over 150 international and local exhibitors, offering a diverse range of fabrics, accessories, leather, prints, and tech-driven textiles. Designers, brands, and manufacturers will find exclusive insights into the latest collections, from bold prints to sustainable denim and artisanal craftsmanship.
Sustainability will be at the forefront, with the expansion of the ‘a better way’ program. This initiative highlights exhibitors committed to eco-conscious practices, offering transparent product lifecycles, ethical processes, and reduced environmental impact. Visitors can easily identify these exhibitors by the ‘a better way’ sticker, ensuring they connect with leaders in sustainable fashion.
In addition to product showcases, Premiere Vision New York will host exclusive trend and color talks by Celine Khawam, PV’s Fashion Consultant. Khawam will reveal key trends for Spring/Summer 2026, including Re-Store, Re-Fresh, and Re-Set, while exploring innovative material innovations.
The event will also feature industry experts, including Lesley Vargas, Founder of LSV Consulting, who will discuss cost complexities and building strong manufacturing relationships. PV New York remains the premier destination for professionals seeking to stay ahead of the evolving fashion landscape with a focus on sustainability and innovation.
The American Association of Textile Chemists & Colorists (AATCC) and The Textile Association (India) (TAI) have signed a Memorandum of Understanding (MOU) to foster collaboration and enhance the global textile industry. This partnership aims to promote communication, align efforts, and advance educational initiatives in the fiber-to-fashion value chain.
Through the MOU, AATCC and TAI will jointly develop training programs, seminars, and conferences to benefit the Indian textile industry. Both organizations will leverage their expertise to promote standards and knowledge-sharing, supporting students, professionals, and businesses. Members of each organization will also receive a 30 per cent discount on membership in the other, with special introductory offers for TAI members from AATCC.
AATCC President Christina Rapa expressed enthusiasm about the partnership, highlighting its potential to support the Indian market with high-quality testing standards, training programs, and networking opportunities, while advancing the mission to connect textile, chemistry, and color science professionals globally.
AATCC Membership Chair Kanti Jasani announced the signing of an MOU between AATCC and TAI, emphasizing that the partnership will strengthen the textile industry by fostering collaboration and providing educational, training, and networking opportunities for students, professionals, and businesses across the sector.
TAI President Tulsi L Patel highlighted the value of the collaboration, noting that with over 26,000 members, TAI is eager to partner with AATCC to organize joint educational programs and expand opportunities for individuals and businesses in the Indian textile sector.
As part of its outreach, AATCC has appointed Seshadri Ramkumar, a distinguished professor at Texas Tech University, as the first AATCC Ambassador to India. Ramkumar will represent AATCC in fostering industry relationships and promoting international collaboration.
Seshadri Ramkumar stated that the partnership between AATCC and TAI establishes a foundation for meaningful knowledge exchange and growth in the fiber-to-fashion and advanced textiles sectors.
AATCC Executive Director Gregg Woodcock expressed optimism, stating that the partnership and the Ambassadorship of Seshadri Ramkumar represent a significant step toward increased engagement with the Indian textile community.
This strategic collaboration underscores the shared commitment of AATCC and TAI to drive innovation, education, and global connectivity in the textile industry.
