In the glittering world of fashion, where storytelling is everything, the small but powerful ‘Made in...’ tag is often the final word on a garment’s origin. It tells the consumer where their clothing comes from—or so they believe. But hidden behind this simple phrase is a global sleight of hand that masks the truth, erases identities, and quietly undermines centuries-old traditions.
In a factory in Noida, an artisan painstakingly embroiders a silk gown with zardozi threadwork passed down through generations. A few weeks later, that same gown is assembled in a Parisian workshop, given a final steam press, and tagged ‘Made in France’. The artisan’s story, and the country where most of the craftsmanship occurred, disappears in an instant.
This isn’t an isolated incident. It’s a global norm.
Thanks to a technicality in global trade law—specifically the WTO’s rule of ‘last substantial transformation’—brands can legally label a product based on where its final stage of production occurs, regardless of where most of it was made.
A leather handbag can be cut, stitched, and finished in Vietnam. But if its metal clasp is affixed in Milan, it earns the right to say ‘Made in Italy’. Similarly, a pair of jeans sewn in Bangladesh but distressed in Turkey emerges as ‘Made in Turkey’. This manipulation is not just legal—it’s deliberate. Stakeholders estimate that up to 90 per cent of a garment’s production may happen in one country, only to be rebranded through minor finishing elsewhere. A senior sourcing executive explains and says, it’s storytelling, not transparency.
Nowhere is this deception more painful than in countries like India, Bangladesh, and Cambodia—all rich in textile history and home to generations of skilled artisans. Their contribution is crucial to the global fashion machine, yet they remain invisible.
As an artist working in craft clusters of Gujarat opines, they are not just losing jobs or fair wages rather they are losing ‘pride’. When a bridal gown that took three weeks of their best handwork is called ‘Made in France,’ it’s not just mislabelling, it’s theft. This isn’t merely about geography; it’s about erasure. Techniques like chikankari, kantha, and phulkari, each with centuries of cultural history, are commodified and rebranded under Western luxury labels with no mention of their true origins.
For consumers, Made in Italy or Made in France isn’t just a label—it’s a promise of quality, heritage, and authenticity. These perceptions justify the high price tags. But that illusion is meticulously constructed and carefully maintained. A buyer paying $2,000 for a so-called French gown may never realize it was largely handcrafted in India. The romance of European couture is preserved, while the reality—a multi-country production involving low-wage labor—is concealed. Consumers think they’re paying for European quality, at a premium fashion house. In truth, they’re paying for European branding.
This deception doesn’t just distort perception; it actively harms development. When garments made in South Asia are falsely labeled, it robs these regions of both recognition and economic opportunity.
If labels told the truth—if consumers saw “Hand-embroidered in India, Assembled in France,” perhaps they may not value the product more; perhaps brands may invest more in uplifting artisan communities and textile infrastructure. As textile researcher Priya Nair puts it, there’s a global market for Indian craftsmanship. But first, the world needs to know where it actually comes from.
Luxury leather nags: A globally celebrated Italian brand sources leather panels and lining from Vietnam. The bag is stitched entirely in Asia but gets its ‘Made in Italy’ label after a logo plate is attached in Florence.
High-street denim: Jeans woven and stitched in Bangladesh are sent to Turkey for a final wash. The jeans, now with ‘Made in Turkey’ tag, are sold as products of Turkish denim heritage.
Couture gowns: Exquisite gowns embroidered in India are assembled and pressed in French studios. Despite Indian artisans' central role, only Paris makes the label.
While global trade rules won’t change overnight, transparency must start with the brands—and the buyers. Co-origin labeling like ‘Crafted in India, Finished in Italy’ can help tell a more honest story. Some ethical brands have already embraced this practice, turning transparency into a competitive edge. Consumer awareness is key. Every purchase is a vote—one that can either uphold an illusion or demand integrity. In a fashion world built on stories, let’s ensure the one we wear includes everyone who shaped it.
The Yamuna Expressway Industrial Development Authority (Yeida) has revived plans to establish a dedicated Handloom and Textile Park near the Noida International Airport, along the Yamuna Expressway. This initiative aims to create a focused cluster for handloom and handicraft units in Sector 10 of the Yeida area.
The Handloom Handicraft Exporters Welfare Association (HHEWA), which was initially promised land for the park three years ago, has now been instructed by Yeida to reapply. They also need to secure approval from the Uttar Pradesh government to develop this park, drawing inspiration from Yeida's successful Apparel Park in Sector 29.
According to RK Singh, CEO, Yeida, the park will focus on the handloom and handicrafts sectors, enabling entrepreneurs to apply for industrial plots up to 8,000 sq m through e-auction.
In September 2022, Yeida had confirmed its board's approval for the park in Sector 10, where land acquisition was already underway, following the model of other sector-specific clusters. HHEWA had previously submitted a list of over 150 members eager to establish manufacturing units in this sector, ideally located near the India Expo Mart in Greater Noida.
However, the project stalled despite several meetings, says CP Sharma, President, HHEWA. Exporters have voiced concerns regarding the state policy's mandate for e-auction for plots up to 8,000 sq m, fearing that smaller exporters may lack the resources to compete effectively in such a bidding process.
To be held from September 2-4, 2025 at the National Exhibition and Convention Center in Shanghai, Yarn Expo Autumn aims to boost international collaboration across the upstream and downstream textile supply chains. The fair will be organized by Messe Frankfurt (HK) and Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT.
Following a successful previous edition that connected around 540 global exhibitors with nearly 22,000 buyers from 81 countries, the upcoming show, co-located with Intertextile Apparel, will continue to serve as a vital platform for yarn and fiber trade. It will primarily focus on innovations addressing the growing demands for eco-friendly and functional textiles. The event's fringe program, featuring forums and trend displays, is also expected to drive engaging discussions.
Emphasizing the critical role of fostering ‘innovation, sustainability, and collaboration’ in the yarn and fiber sector, Wilmet Shea, General Manager, Messe Frankfurt (HK) highlights Yarn Expo's commitment to providing an international platform that supports industry growth and meets contemporary demands. Shea expresses confidence in the expo's continued success, anticipating new opportunities this autumn.
Driven by a population growth, sportswear demand and socioeconomic advancements alongiwt a growing focus on sustainable production, the global yarn, fiber, and thread market is projected to reach $138.8 billion by 2029, growing at a CAGR of 6.4 per cent, driven by population growth, sportswear demand, and socioeconomic advancements, with sustainable production being a top priority.
Yarn Expo Autumn is strategically positioned as an international sourcing hub, aligning with global eco-friendly and functionality trends by gathering key industry players from Asia and beyond. The 2024 edition featured dedicated zones for India, Pakistan, and an International Zone, alongside six key product zones covering regenerated, cotton, synthetic, specialty, and elastic products.
Exhibitors from the previous edition, Shailesh Jain, Director, Shanti Rayons India, hails the ‘good collections and valuable contacts,’ noting discoveries like ‘seaweed-made Chinese yarn’ and the benefits of the trend forum.
Karuna Changmai, Vice President and Global Sales Head, Thai Acrylic Fibre Co, lauds the fair's ability to attract international and Chinese visitors, emphasizing its focus on sustainability as crucial for the future of fashion.
China emerged as the leading global exporter and importer of textile yarns in 2024, with India, Italy, and Türkiye also ranking highly on both lists, reflecting their strong presence among the expo's visiting countries.
Tajikistan aims to boost its textile exports to $3 billion in the future by significantly increasing domestic cotton processing and establishing closed production chains. The country currently, processes only about 30 per cent of the cotton grown in the country, with the remaining 70 per cent being exported as raw material.
According to Sherali Kabir, Minister of Industry and New Technologies, Tajikistan’s textile and cotton fiber exports reached approximately $300 million last year. This figure can be raised by making strategic investment and an increased focused on finished products, he opines.
A cornerstone of Tajikistan's fourth national strategy, this initiative aims to accelerate industrialization and a double overall industrial production within the next five years. A key component of this strategy is the establishment of full-cycle clusters, encompassing every stage from cotton cultivation to the manufacturing of final textile products.
Under the Strategy for the Development of the Textile Industry, adopted two years ago, Tajikistan plans to create over 600,000 new jobs and ensure the complete processing of all locally grown cotton. This integrated approach is expected to transform the country's textile sector, making it a more significant player in the global market. The focus on adding value domestically rather than exporting raw materials is central to Tajikistan's long-term economic growth and job creation efforts.
UK-based off-price fashion marketplace, Secret Sales plans to expand its presence in the European market by acquiring two Dutch brands, V&D (Vroom & Dreesmann) and To Be Dressed.
Once a cornerstone of Dutch high street shopping, V&D holds deep sentimental value across generations. Chris Griffin, CEO, Secret Sales, emphasizes, more than just a brand, V&D is a part of the Dutch story. The brand holds a special place in people’s lives, with memories and meaning that stretch across generations. He sees this as a unique opportunity to evolve V&D while honoring its cherished legacy, aiming to re-establish it as the ‘modern, go-to destination for fashion in the Netherlands.
The acquisition also includes To Be Dressed, an established online platform known for its curated, discounted fashion selection, appealing to a younger, price-savvy demographic. Both V&D and To Be Dressed will retain their distinct brand identities, but will benefit immensely from Secret Sales' robust tech infrastructure and access to a vast €2 billion inventory from over 4,500 global brands. The goal for V&D is to relaunch with a significantly expanded product offering, aiming to restore its status as a household name for Dutch shoppers by providing value, familiarity, and a locally relevant assortment.
This strategic acquisition boosts Secret Sales' European footprint, expanding its reach to seven markets, 17 million users, and a growing catalog of over one million products. It follows a series of other impactful buys, including Dreivip, Dress for Less, and Afound, signaling Secret Sales' aggressive expansion strategy.
Jonathan Kahn, Partner, Cool Investments and Outgoing Owner, V&D, affirms, this sale to Secret Sales marks the beginning of an exciting new chapter. With their scale, platform, and ambition, V&D is now perfectly placed to grow beyond that foundation and reclaim its former glory – once again becoming a trusted destination for the Dutch people. This partnership is poised to bring a nostalgic yet modernized shopping experience back to Dutch consumers, he adds.
The US retail industry continues to face significant challenges, with luxury retailer Nordstrom and department store chain JCPenney announcing store closures. This move reflects the broader struggles within the sector, grappling with a difficult economic climate and evolving consumer behavior.
Nordstrom is slated to shut down two of its locations by the end of August. It will close the Saint Louis Galleria Nordstrom store in St Louis, Missouri on August 24, followed by the Nordstrom store in Santa Monica, California, on August 26. The company confirmed these closures as it works to maintain its financial stability.
Following Nordstrom's announcement, JCPenney revealed plans to close a few of its own stores in the coming months. The company cited various reasons for these closures, including expiring lease agreements and market changes, as it endeavors to adapt to rapidly shifting retail conditions. The retailer plans to close eight JCPenney locations across eight different states.
Further underscoring the industry's difficulties, US retail closures last fall reached their highest level since the COVID-19 pandemic, according to data from Coresight Research. The impact extends to employment, with job cuts in the retail sector rising by 80 per cent in the first five months of 2025 compared to the same period last year, a report from Challenger, Gray & Christmas indicates.
Andrew Challenger, Senior Vice President, Challenger, Gray & Christmas, notes, factors such as tariffs, funding cuts, consumer spending, and overall economic pessimism are putting intense pressure on companies’ workforce." Companies are spending less, slowing hiring, and sending layoff notices, with store closures being a direct contributor to these job reductions, he adds.
Currently undergoing significant transformation, the GCC textile market is projected to grow from $16.32 billion in 2025 to $25.21 billion by 2032, expanding at a CAGR of 6.4 per cent during this period. This expansion is being fueled by rapid urbanization, evolving consumer preferences, and strategic government initiatives aimed at increasing regional self-reliance in textile production.
The United Arab Emirates (UAE) and Saudi Arabia are at the forefront of this growth. Dubai's established role as a global textile trading hub, exceeding $4.5 billion in trade in 2023, continues to drive the market. Simultaneously, Saudi Arabia's ambitious Vision 2030 is accelerating domestic manufacturing, including a $50 million investment in a textile production hub dedicated to Islamic and modest fashion, bolstering self-sufficiency and meeting regional and global demand.
Growth in this segment is dominated by the synthetic fibers segment, accounting for 48 per cent of the market in 2025 due to their cost-effectiveness and durability, especially in high-temperature climates. Natural fabrics hold approximately 32 per cent of the market, catering to luxury and sustainable fashion preferences. The apparel segment remains the largest with a 54 per cent share, propelled by growth in sportswear, Islamic fashion, and high-end brands. Technological advancements and expanding retail infrastructure, including e-commerce, are enhancing local manufacturing efficiency and market accessibility.
Despite the optimistic outlook, challenges persist, notably a heavy reliance on raw material imports, which exposes the region to price volatility. High energy costs, limited skilled labor, and regulatory hurdles also impede local production scalability.
However, abundant opportunities lie in sustainable fashion and technical textiles. The global push for eco-friendly products creates avenues for GCC manufacturers to innovate with organic and recycled materials. The rising demand for modest and Islamic fashion presents a lucrative niche, both domestically and for export. Furthermore, increasing foreign direct investment (FDI) and international collaborations are expected to unlock new revenue streams, positioning the GCC as a significant manufacturing and export hub in the global textile industry.
The US subsidiary of Indo Count Industries (ICIL), Indo Count Global (ICG) has re-launched Wamsutta as a direct-to-consumer (DTC) brand. The company makes Wamsutta’s products available at wamsutta.com in the United States.
Indo Count acquired the Wamsutta brand from Beyond, Inc. in April 2024. This reintroduction marks a strategic move to strengthen Indo Count's presence in the premium segment of the US home textiles market, featuring an updated product assortment and refreshed brand positioning.
Founded in 1846, Wamsutta quickly rose to become a preeminent American producer and, eventually, the world's largest cotton weaving plant. Beloved by millions, the brand became a household name and a category leader in bedding and bath products. The re-launch aligns with Indo Count's strategy to leverage heritage brands with high consumer awareness and reposition them for modern growth through a digitally led, vertically integrated approach.
According to Mohit Jain, Executive Vice-Chairman, Indo Count Industries, the brand Wamsutta has always stood for quality and comfort that endures. Now, with a refreshed brand, premium positioning, and the direct-to-consumer channel, it connects with a new generation of consumers while honoring the brand's legacy, he adds.
The new wamsutta.com platform showcases a curated selection of premium bedding and bath products, emphasizing quality, simplicity, and timeless design. Indo Count's deep commitment to quality, sustainability, and customer-first service underpins every product offered. The DTC model enables Indo Count Global to directly engage with customers, gather real-time insights, and build long-term brand equity through digital storytelling and product experience, all while delivering timeless comfort and enduring quality.
Established in 1988, Indo Count Industries (ICIL) is a world-renowned home textiles company and globally the largest manufacturer of bed linen. With state-of-the-art manufacturing facilities in India and the United States, ICIL ensures superior quality across its fashion, institutional, and utility bedding segments. The company maintains a strong global presence with offices, showrooms, and distribution centers in New York, Charlotte (the US), Manchester (UK), and Dubai (UAE), complemented by a growing e-commerce footprint in the US, UK, UAE, and India.
In the world of global trade, few terms have the covert glamour and historical baggage of ‘submarining’. Once a relic of the quota-era under the now-defunct Multi-Fiber Agreement (MFA) the controversial practice, is making waves again. Spurred by a new climate of protectionism and punitive tariffs—particularly those introduced during the Trump administration—this old trade trick is quietly regaining momentum, reshaping how garments make their way into the US market.
But this time, the game has evolved. The geography is different, the stakes are higher, and the players include not just foreign exporters but U.S.-based actors who’ve found clever ways to flip the script from within.
To grasp the gravity of this revival, we must return to the era of the MFA (1962-05), when garment imports into the US States were strictly controlled by country-specific quotas. Exporters, especially from big sourcing countries like China, faced caps on how much they could send to lucrative markets like the US. Submarining emerged as a workaround—ingenious and illegal.
Here’s how it worked: Chinese apparel was shipped to third countries—often in Africa—that weren’t subject to quotas. There, without any real processing, the goods were relabeled as originating from the intermediary country and re-exported to the US quota-free and sometimes duty-free. Everyone benefited: Chinese factories bypassed quota constraints, African traders earned tidy margins without making a single garment, and US importers stocked their shelves with high-demand items at lower prices.
This workaround netted billions before fading into obscurity with the MFA’s demise and the liberalization of global trade in 2005. But like all cycles, protectionism is back—and so is submarining.
Fast forward to the late 2010s and early 2020s, under President Donald Trump’s administration, a slew of new tariffs and duties—especially targeting Chinese-made goods was unleashed in the name of protecting American industry. From solar panels to steel, and yes, to apparel, the US found itself reintroducing steep trade barriers.
These tariff walls, according to analysts, have rekindled the conditions for submarining to flourish once more. Only this time, the third-country detours are playing out across the Middle East, Western Asia, and parts of Southeast Asia—regions with preferential access to US markets or minimal exposure to the new duties.
What’s changed is not the method but the motive. In place of avoiding quotas, today’s submariners aim to dodge tariffs that can reach up to 25 per cent on certain Chinese goods. The garments are moved through countries like Jordan, Bangladesh, or even the UAE, where they are given a new paper trail and re-exported under different origin claims—sometimes with minor processing, other times with none at all.
Trump, for his part, responded with characteristic bluntness, threatening “serious action against the crooked and deceitful players who are undermining his quota regime.” But experts say the problem is not just overseas
Data from 2024 adds a fresh, if unsettling, layer to the story: the US itself may be acting as a launchpad for its own brand of submarining.
Metric |
Value |
US Garment Exports (Total) |
$6.0 billion |
US Garment Re-exports |
$3.5 billion |
US Global Ranking (Net Exports) |
18th (Below Egypt) |
Key Re-export Recipients |
Canada, Mexico |
Share of Re-exports to NA Partners |
64% ($2.2 billion) |
Top Re-exported Products |
T-shirts, Cotton Casual Pants |
Of the $6 billion in total US garment exports in 2024, more than half—$3.5 billion—were classified as re-exports, meaning the goods were imported into the US and then exported again without substantial transformation. This moved the US down to 18th in the world in net apparel exports, trailing countries like Egypt. Canada and Mexico—America’s key partners under the USMCA—absorbed $2.2 billion worth of these re-exports, mostly comprising garments that were originally imported from Asia.
Here’s how the domestic version of submarining unfolds:
Apparel imports from Asia enter the US—largely comprising basic but high-volume items like T-shirts and cotton pants. These goods are then re-exported to Canada or Mexico, capitalizing on duty-free benefits under USMCA. Back they come—often with minor tweaks or merely a change of documentation—to the US market under new origin status and free from the steep tariffs originally imposed on direct imports from Asia.
It’s a tidy legal loop that stretches the definition of “substantial transformation” but remains technically difficult to police. With tariffs pushing companies to seek creative trade routes, this US-based submarining is estimated to grow into a billion-dollar practice, piggybacking on loopholes in existing trade agreements.
The economic implications are manifold. For starters, submarining erodes the effectiveness of trade policies meant to safeguard domestic manufacturing or pressurize geopolitical rivals. For compliant businesses, it introduces a competitive disadvantage, as they face higher landed costs while others game the system.
Ethically, it raises red flags over transparency. Consumers may believe they're buying a T-shirt ‘Made in Mexico’ when it’s effectively a Chinese product that’s played hopscotch across trade borders. “This is a test of regulatory will,” said a trade compliance expert on condition of anonymity. “Governments must decide whether they’ll clamp down on these practices or tacitly allow them to flourish because they keep supply chains stable and prices down.”
As trade tensions persist and more nations flirt with economic nationalism, the conditions for submarining are only likely to grow more favorable. Technology from AI-powered customs inspections to blockchain tracking is being explored as a countermeasure. But enforcement lags behind innovation.
The return of submarining marks more than a curious footnote in trade history—it’s a powerful indicator of how policy can drive both ingenuity and subversion in global commerce. Whether regulators crack down or turn a blind eye may well determine whether submarining stays submerged—or resurfaces as a defining force in 21st-century trade.
A direct result of the ongoing tariffs that have pushed retailers to diversify their supply chains, US apparel imports from China hit a 22-year low in May. This significant decline highlights the lasting impact of trade tensions, prompting a notable shift in sourcing toward countries like Vietnam, Bangladesh, and India.
Historically the dominant apparel exporter to the US, China has seen its market share diminish as a consequence of escalating US tariffs, some reaching as high as 145 per cent under President Donald Trump. This has compelled American companies to actively reduce their dependence on Chinese manufacturing.
Trade experts indicate that this trend of decreasing imports from China isn't new. US interest in Southeast Asian production has been on the rise since mid-2023, evident in the increased demand for factory inspections across the region. These ongoing shifts suggest fundamental and enduring changes in global supply chain dynamics, changes that could face further challenges as temporary tariff pauses eventually expire.
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