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As per the Foreign Agricultural Service of the USA for Mexico, production of cotton in 2018-19 in Mexico is likely to increase 2 per cent than previous marketing year, due to continued favorable prices for cotton than for other crops, such as sorghum and corn. Cotton is the only commercially grown GE crop in Mexico. Farmers have indicated that the use of GE cotton has resulted in better pest control and pest management.

The area under cotton plantation increased substantially in 2017-18 from the previous season 2016-17. This is attributed to favorable weather conditions, adequate irrigation, continued use of genetically engineered (GE) seeds, and a return to cotton planting as a result of favorable prices, after a year of crop rotations.

The country’s cotton imports for 2018-19 total are forecast at 925,000 bales due to the expected large crop production. The expansion in production is expected to encourage yarn and textile manufactures to source their needs from the local cotton industry. Production, however, in Mexico now consists of nearly 80 percent of total domestic use.

 

Global textile company Lenzing and Los Angeles designer Pawan Kumar have collaborated on a collection called Midnight Blues. The collection will be showcased at upcoming Kingpins Amsterdam—the denim trade show to be held from October 24 to 25. The clothing showcases the potential of Lenzing’s Tencel Lyocell with Refibra technology. Refibra fiber is made from post-industrial cotton waste.

The fiber for the collection has been sourced from facilities in the United States, the United Kingdom or Austria, the reach of the project will expand into a larger worldwide initiative to create dresses, T-shirts, sweaters and jackets.

Born in Mauritius, Pawan Kumar has worked with Spanish apparel manufacturing technology firm Jeanologia. While he understands the technical aspects of recent innovations in textiles, Kumar is also able to interpret his vision into a collection that allows the characteristics of Lenzing’s material to shine through.

Inspired by the rich indigo shades of Mauritius’s sky, he sought to elevate the Refibra brand by creating strong, beautifully crafted pieces, which include an impressive spaghetti-strap, sweetheart-neckline indigo gown whose skirt features eight layers of pleating. Instead of going for a casual look, he used a clean, sophisticated denim wash in order to enhance the beauty of the Refibra denim. He used different shades of indigo and added some sparkle to add more richness to the Tencel fabric.

 

Garment manufacturers in Gujarat have cut production due to a reduction in demand. Usually, traders and retailers place orders two months before Diwali and garment manufacturers dispatch orders by Dusshera. But this year the pre-festival business has gone down by about 40 per cent on account of lower purchasing power, disturbed payment systems and weak exports.

Dubai is the leading buyer of readymade garments. But exports of readymade garments have fallen due to the value added tax in Dubai. GST and demonetisation have affected the payment cycle of the industry and because of this the overall business has gone down. There are over 5,000 garment manufacturers in Gujarat. Gujarat’s textile and garment exports have fallen by 30 per cent after the cut in incentives that came with the implementation of GST.

Export incentives for cotton and polyester have reduced roughly by four per cent. This makes products more expensive in the international market and reduces exporters’ competitiveness. Gujarat accounts for 12 per cent of all apparels exported from India. Sri Lanka and Middle Eastern countries are some of the key markets for garment manufacturers from Gujarat.

With a cut in duty drawback, there is stiff competition from the likes of Bangladesh and Vietnam, both of which get tax incentives in addition to export incentives. Besides, these countries are preferential importers for several global markets.

Saturday, 20 October 2018 13:57

Fashion threatens global biodiversity

There is a lot of attention on the fashion industry’s impact on water and climate. But more focus needs to be given to the role it is playing in declining biodiversity. Fashion is having a devastating impact on ecosystems around the globe.

The extinction of fish species in the Aral Sea is linked to intense cotton farming in the region. Deforestation in Canada and Brazil for the cellulosic fiber market is destroying ecosystems which provide a home for a plethora of endangered species. Sumatran orangutans, tigers and Indus river dolphins have been pushed to brink of extinction by the actions of industries including fashion manufacturing.

The insatiable thirst for buying more clothes more often is putting the Earth’s most precious wild places at risk, pushing species towards extinction, destroying livelihoods and communities.

The link between unsustainable fashion and the loss of biodiversity is the last orangutan in a clear-cut forest. Whether it is pollution from farming cotton, plundering species such as eucalyptus for rayon fabrics, or the harvesting of wild animals for fur, the natural environment is being eroded and weakened.

Now is the time for businesses, including the fashion industry, to think seriously about how they can mitigate their impacts on biodiversity and contribute to global efforts to improve the status of biodiversity.

Electronics For Imaging launched its latest innovations for digital textile production at ITMA Asia. These included EFI Reggiani Colors, a digital textile printer offering high-end production in up to 12 colours; the EFI Reggiani Terra solution featuring new pigment ink with binder for a greener, faster and competitive textile process; EFI Optitex® 2D/3D CAD design software; and the EFI Fiery® DesignPro software suite for print preparation and production.

With these products, designers, brands and manufacturers alike benefit from the ability to speed time to market and deliver stunning, digitally printed apparel, home textiles and more. The Reggiani Colors printer offers a unique imaging configuration especially important for customers seeking to establish a distinct competitive advantage. The printer runs at speeds up to 560 square meters per hour, delivering unmatched printing quality and uniformity with an extended colour gamut, superior colour depth and increased penetration into fabric.

The Reggiani Terra solution for direct-to-textile production eliminates the need for steaming or washing on direct-to-textile applications using a greener, more-efficient polymerisation process that takes place as printed textile goes through the printer’s on-board dryer.

The EFI Optitex® 2D/3D CAD design software delivers a faster, more customisable, user-friendly experience, saving time and resources with a faster time to market. It includes an all-in-one avatar solution that allows users to customize avatars, adjust morphs, create sizes and define poses to visualise a final draped result and enable accurate fit.

The new version 4 of EFI’s Fiery DesignPro software includes new and updated plug-ins that significantly reduce the time and effort needed to create repeat patterns and sophisticated colorways directly within Adobe® Photoshop®.

 

Most countries recorded an increase in textile and apparel exports during the first eight months of 2018. China's textile exports during the period increased marginally up by 1.2 per cent while its apparel exports declined by 1.06 per cent. Vietnam’s textile and apparel exports increased 24.47 per cent. Its apparel exports grew by 27 per cent, while fabric exports increased by 34.31 per cent. Yarn exports were up by around 4 percent

Pakistan’s exports of most of textile product categories in August exports recorded a robust growth of 25.55 per cent over July. Its raw cotton exports shot up by 165.37 per cent, cotton fabric exports went up by 40.47 per cent, knitwear exports were up by 34 per cent and made-ups exports increased by over 50 per cent.

Sri Lankan apparel exports in August were 6 per cent higher than in January. March recorded the highest exports at $465 million. While in April, at $323 million, Sri Lanka's apparel exports were the lowest. However, India's textile and apparel exports in July were 5.82 per cent lower than in January. Exports of woven apparel till July declined 19.43 per cent.

Turkey's textile and clothing exports also went down by 5 per cent in August 2018, compared to exports in January 2018. Export growth has fluctuated wildly during these eight months.

 

Saturday, 20 October 2018 13:49

CPTPP to take effect by early 2019

The Comprehensive and Progressive Trans-Pacific Partnership (CPTPP) may take effect early next year. The 11 member free trade pact in which Japan has a leading role was earlier known as the Trans-Pacific Partnership.

The accord will come into force 60 days after at least six countries have worked on their domestic procedures. So far, Japan, Mexico and Singapore have completed the process, with Australia, Canada and New Zealand seeking to do so by the end of the year. Brunei, Chile, Malaysia, Peru and Vietnam are also part of the pact.

After the US pulled out of the TPP in January 2017, the remaining eleven members signed the revised TPP in March this year. The UK, Colombia, Indonesia, South Korea, Taiwan, Thailand and South Korea are believed to be interested in joining the CPTPP. This agreement will focus on goods and will be different from a free trade agreement that is more comprehensive.

TPP was previously negotiated by the US with Japan, Canada, Mexico, Australia and seven other Pacific countries. It was touted at the time as an alternative framework to the World Trade Organization amid criticisms that the current trade enforcement regime was outdated and failed to address issues related to services, intellectual property and the digital economy properly.

Park PVH Corp, leading clothes manufacturer in Ethiopia’s Hawassa Industrial Estate received the 2018 US Secretary of State’s Award for Corporate Excellence (ACE). The company, one of the world’s largest apparel companies and owner of iconic brands, including Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger, Van Heusen, Speedo, Warner’s and IZOD, has received recognition from the US Department of State for promoting corporate excellence

Hosted at the US State Department in Washington D.C., the ceremony honored the company for upholding high standards of responsible business conduct. PVH accepted the Sustainable Operations Award as lead investor of a best-in-class apparel manufacturing facility in Hawassa, Ethiopia.

 

Cotton Corporation of India (CCI), which was gearing up for procurement operations from farmers may have to wait for a while as prices have gone above the Minimum Support Prices (MSP). Cotton prices are ruling at Rs 5,800 per quintal and have jumped up by nearly Rs 800 per quintal in last 10-12 days. The prices have shot up by nearly Rs 800 per quintal on reports of short supplies, the typhoon in the US that has hit the crop and China announcing a quota of nearly 48 lakh bales.

P Alli Rani, CMD, CCI pointed out that arrivals are weak, by about 50,000 to 60,000 bales a day. Moreover most of the cotton does not meet the FAQ parameters with more than 12 per cent moisture. Meanwhile, experts says traders are buying cotton at Rs 50 or Rs 100 more than MSP and once arrivals peak, prices are set to drop and then it will be difficult for them to buy at MSP.

Market sources pointed out that prices are up due to buying by mills, which are running out of stock amid lower-than-expected supply of the new crop in Maharashtra, Gujarat and Telangana.

 

Saturday, 20 October 2018 13:44

Chinese shoes wreck Polish brands’ market

CCC is Poland’s largest footwear retailer, with a market share of about 20 per cent. It operates 1,160 outlets, with its network stretching across several European countries, including Germany, Russia, Austria and Hungary. The chain employs more than 12,000 people and sells nearly 40 million pairs of shoes a year.

But an oversupply of cheap, imported Chinese shoes has created something of a crisis in Poland's footwear industry. The country's manufacturers cannot compete with the significantly lower-priced Chinese shoes that are swamping the market. Although many consumers profess a distinct preference for Polish products, the sizeable price differential often all but obliges them to purchase far cheaper China-sourced alternatives.

A manufacturer of high-quality children's shoes shut its doors last month after 20 years of being in the business. Despite the disappearance of many domestic footwear manufacturers, a fair number of their associated brands have maintained a presence on the high street. This new lease of life granted them is largely down to a number of the country's major chain-store operators, including CCC, acquiring the rights to these discontinued brands and either switching production to one of the few remaining domestic footwear manufacturers or, more usually, outsourcing production to third-party operations in China.