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Global shipments of textile machinery saw mixed results in 2023, according to the 46th annual International Textile Machinery Shipment Statistics (ITMSS) report by the International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF). While some segments experienced growth, others faced significant declines. The report, which includes data from over 200 textile machinery manufacturers worldwide, highlights key trends across spinning, draw-texturing, weaving, knitting, and finishing machinery.
Spinning machinery: Mixed regional performance
The spinning machinery segment saw varying performances in 2023. Global shipments of short-staple spindles increased by 155,000 units, reaching a total of 9.78 million. The majority of these shipments (85 per cent) were destined for Asia & Oceania, where deliveries remained stable compared to 2022. However, shipments to Europe (including Turkiye) and North and Central America dropped by 13 per cent and 27 per cent, respectively. In contrast, Africa and South America saw substantial growth, with shipments to Africa rising by 120 per cent and to South America by 140 per cent. Egypt emerged as the largest recipient in Africa, accounting for 85 per cent of the region’s deliveries.
In the open-end rotor category, shipments declined by 17 per cent, totaling 1 million units. Asia & Oceania continued to dominate, receiving 85 per cent of global shipments, although deliveries in the region dropped by 19 per cent. China, India, and Turkiye remained the top investors, despite facing declines. Notably, Brazil and Mexico bucked the trend with increases of 20 per cent and 46 per cent, respectively.
Long-staple (wool) spindle shipments increased by 5 per cent, driven by higher deliveries to Europe and South America. China, Turkiye, and Iran were the primary recipients, with China alone receiving 31 per cent of the total shipments.
Texturing machinery: Declines across the board
The draw-texturing machinery segment experienced a sharp downturn in 2023. Global shipments of single heater draw-texturing spindles, used mainly for polyamide filaments, plummeted by 33 per cent to 43,000 units. Asia & Oceania continued to dominate this market, receiving 97 per cent of shipments, with China being the largest investor.
Similarly, shipments of double heater draw-texturing spindles, primarily used for polyester filaments, fell by 27 per cent to 550,000 units. Asia maintained its lead with a 97 per cent share of global shipments, with China accounting for 91 per cent.
Weaving machinery: A significant surge
The weaving machinery segment recorded significant growth, particularly in the shuttle-less loom category. Global shipments surged by 52to 171,000 units. The increase was driven by strong demand for air-jet and water-jet looms, which saw growth of 34 per cent and 96 per cent, respectively. Asia & Oceania remained the top destination, receiving 96 per cent of all shuttle-less looms. China was the largest investor in air-jet and water-jet looms, while India led in rapier-and-projectile looms.
Knitting machinery: Stronggrowth in circular and flat knitting
The knitting machinery segment also witnessed robust growth in 2023. Global shipments of large circular knitting machines rose by 17 per cent to 33,000 units. Asia & Oceania, and particularly China, dominated the market, with China alone accounting for 63 per cent of all deliveries—a remarkable 86 per cent increase from 2022. India and Turkiye followed as the second and third-largest markets.
The flat knitting machinery category saw an even more significant rise, with shipments increasing by 61 per cent to 177,000 machines. Again, Asia & Oceania was the leading region, receiving 92 per cent of global shipments, with China maintaining its position as the top investor.
Finishing machinery: Stability with mixed results
In the finishing segment, the overall number of deliveries remained stable. The "fabrics continuous" category saw a 3 per cent increase in stenters shipments, while other machines in this category reported mixed results, ranging from a 42 per cent decrease for relax dryers/tumblers to a 103 per cent increase for bleaching lines. In the "fabrics discontinuous" segment, shipments of jigger/beam dyeing and air jet dyeing machines declined by 8 per cent and 0.3 per cent, respectively, while overflow dyeing machines saw a 4.2 per cent increase in deliveries.
The ITMSS report for 2023 paints a varied picture of the global textile machinery industry, with strong growth in some areas, particularly weaving and knitting, while other segments such as draw-texturing and open-end rotors face significant challenges. Asia and Oceania continue to dominate as the leading destination for textile machinery, particularly China, which remains a critical market across multiple categories.
Textile and clothing (T&A) exports from Pakistan contracted by 3.09 percent in July’24, signaling potential struggles for the sector in the face of stringent new tax measures introduced this fiscal year.
As per the data released by the Pakistan Bureau of Statistics (PBS), the textile and clothing sector, which accounts for over 60 percent of the country’s total exports, experienced a decline for the second consecutive month. This follows a 0.93 percent drop in June, despite the government's recent budget measures aimed at promoting exports—a move that top textile exporters have criticised. The sector had shown a significant rebound in May with double-digit growth after two months of sluggish performance. However, the rising costs of energy and high taxation are now contributing to the downturn.
Despite having an installed capacity of $25 billion, Pakistan’s textile and clothing exports have remained stagnant over the past two years, according to industry exporters. They cite structural issues as a primary reason for this lack of growth.
In absolute terms, textile and clothing exports from the country declined by 10.13 per cent to $1.27 billion in Julyfrom $1.31 billion in the same month last year.
The government's decision to increase the tax rate on exporters' personal income in the 2024-25 fiscal year is expected to have a more pronounced impact in the coming months.
According to the PBS data, the value of readymade garment exports increased by 7.57 percent increase in July, along with an 8.47 percent rise in quantity. However, the value of knitwear exports dropped by 1.88 percent and volume by 6.37 percent. Bedwear exports posted a slight decrease of 1.20 percent in value but grew by 4.07 percent in quantity.
Towel exports dropped by 3.67 percent in value and 2 percent in quantity, while cotton cloth exports decreased by 0.56 percent in value and 4.72 percent in quantity.
Yarn exports experienced a significant drop of over 42.54 percent compared to July last year. The exports of made-up articles, excluding towels, declined by 5.84 percent, while exports of tents, canvas, and tarpaulin rose by 14.22 percent Y-o-Y.
In terms of imports, synthetic fiber imports fell by 33.23 percent, and synthetic and artificial silk yarn imports declined by 17.68 percent. However, other textile items saw a notable increase of 53.20 percent during the same period. The import of raw cotton decreased by 20.60 percent in July, whereas the import of second-hand clothes increased by 13.47 percent.
Overall, total exports in July grew by 11.75 percent, reaching $2.31 billion from $2.06 billion in the same month last year.
Building on its rich heritage in denim design and innovation, Levi’s is set to introduce a fresh array of silhouettes for men and women, blending comfort, style, and versatility. After a successful Spring/Summer 2024 women’s collection that featured baggy and wide-leg jeans, Levi’s continues to cater to the growing demand for looser denim fits.
For women, the brand has introduced XL Straight, a wide-leg style that features a mid-rise and a relaxed fit through the hip and thigh. Crafted from 14 oz. cotton denim, the XL Straight is available in a variety of washes, ranging from a light wash with a ripped knee to dark indigo and black. This style also includes a removable self-belt, adding a touch of customisation.
Levi’s is also emphasising utility and comfort in its new men’s fits. It has launched the 555 Relaxed Straight jeans that are inspired by the roomy straight cuts popular in the 1990s. These jeans, which sit at the waist, stack at the hem, and maintain a relaxed fit through the seat and thigh, are available in a range of clean washes with a utility-inspired design.
In addition to its denim offerings, Levi’s is expanding its innovative Levi’s Tech program. It has launched the 511 Tech Pant and XX Chino Tech Pant that feature slight adjustments to the rise of their base silhouettes, the 511 Slim Fit and XX Chino Standard, respectively, providing better coverage during active movement.
These 100 percent polyester tech pants are designed for performance, offering moisture-wicking, quick-drying, and reliable sun protection. Each style is equipped with a secure zip pocket on the right back side for convenient storage on the go. The tech pants are available in classic utilitarian colors, including olive, brown, black, and charred gray.
Fabric manufacturer Shrijee Lifestyle Group aims to achieve a turnover of Rs 1,200 crore by 2030. Of this, the company plans to achieve a turnover of Rs 500 crore in 2024-25.
To achieve this, the company plans to expandits product portfolio while also continuing to expand its brands both in India and internationally. The company has brands including 'Shrijee' for blouse and fancy ladies' wear fabrics, 'Avant Moda' for high-end digital printed and piece-dyed shirting and suiting for men and women, 'Cranberry' for creative shirting and kurta fabrics, 'Gizanni' for pure Giza yarn-dyed and piece-dyed fabrics, and 'Linen Villa' for pure linen and innovative Lyocell linen blends.
Founded in 1970 by DeshbandhuKagzi, the Shrijee brand initially gained recognition for its blouse fabrics, especially the 2x2 Rubia. It later expanded across India and into international markets such as the UK, EU, Middle East, and Latin America. Over the years, Shrijee Lifestyle Group has become a recognised force in shirting, women’s wear, and kids’ wear, known particularly for its value-added and digitally printed fabrics.
A prominent US-based online second-hand fashion company, ThredUp plans to exit the European market as its revenues from this market declined by 18 per cent to $13 millionduring Q2, FY24.
The company’s gross profit from European operations declined by 25 per cent to $3.6 million during the quarter while gross margin decreased to 27.3 per cent from 29.8 per centreported in the same period in 2023.
Overall, ThredUp’s sales during Q2 2024 dropped by 4 per cent Y-o-Y to $79.8 million. However, the company’s gross profit improved by 1 per cent compared to Q2 2023, with a gross margin rising to 70.4 per cent. The net loss for the quarter narrowed to $14 million from a net loss of $18.8 millionin Q2 2023.
ThredUp also reported an improvement in its adjusted EBITDA loss to $1.5 million from $5 million in the same quarter the previous year.
Looking ahead, ThredUp’s anticipates consolidated revenue to increase to $298 million -$302 million in FY24, with US sales projected to rise to $247 million-$251 million.
ThredUp has also introduced certain AI-enabled search tools such as enhanced search, image search, and style chat, to improve the customer experience. These features will customers to more efficiently navigate ThredUp's extensive inventory of over 4 million single-SKU items.
Leading technical textiles manufacturer, Garware Technical Fibers reported a 9 per cent Y-o-Y growth in its net profit to Rs 46.8 crore during Q1, FY25. The company’s profits before tax during the quarter rose by 9 per cent, affirms VayuGarware, Chairman and Managing Director.
The company’s net sales during the quarter increased by 3 per cent Y-o-Y to Rs 336.3 crore from Rs 325.7 crore in the same period the previous year. Profits before tax increased to Rs 62.1 crore as compared to Rs 57.1 crore in Q1 FY24.
During Q4, FY24, all the plants of Garware Technical Fibers had operated near full capacity. However, this did not affect the company’s results for Q1 FY25 as much of its production was shipped to Norway and Chile, with billing scheduled for the second quarter.
The company’s domestic business continued to grow in Q1 FY25, with the geosynthetics division poised for a strong performance this fiscal year, states Garware. The firm anticipatesa stronger profit growth in Q2 FY25, which would set the stage for robust results in the first half of the year, he adds.
Leading polyester producer, Shinkong Synthetic Fibers Corp has invested $10 million in Ambercycle’s first state-of-the art commercial facility to enhance its production capacity for decarbonised polyester- Cycora.
This collaboration builds on three years of joint efforts that combined Ambercycle’s molecular regeneration technology with Shinkong’s expertise in the premium polyester market to produce regenerated yarns.
Shay Sethi, Co-founder and CEO, Ambercycle, says, this investment enables the company to expand its operations and advance the boundaries of sustainable textile production.
The global demand for decarbonised polyester is projected to increase to approximately 7 million metric tons annually by 2026, from 5 million metric tons in 2015, as more brands pursue circular materials to achieve their sustainability targets.
Eric Wu, Chairman, Shinkong Synthetics, adds, by investing in this new facility, the company reinforces its commitment to pioneer a future with decarbonised polyester. This collaboration will enhance its ability to deliver high-performance, sustainable products to the global market.
Ambercycle plans to begin operations at the new facility in 2026. Thefacility will significantly boost the company’s capacity to support circularity and scale next-generation materials in the textile industry, aligning with global initiatives to transition towards more decarbonised production practices.
Lululemon, the athletic apparel giant, has become synonymous with high-quality yoga wear and comfortable workout gear. But in recent years, they've also set ambitious sustainability goals under the banner ‘Be Planet’. This initiative encompasses several areas, aiming to reduce Lululemon's environmental footprint.
Be Planet in action
Under this plan, Lululemon is committed to using more sustainable materials. By 2025, they aim for at least 75 per cent of their products to be made from recycled, renewable, or responsibly sourced fibers. They're also exploring innovative fabrics like plant-based nylon, a significant shift from traditional petroleum-based materials. Lululemon has increased transparency in its supply chain, disclosing information about factory conditions and environmental impacts.
Water conservation is another pillar of Be Planet. They aim to reduce freshwater use intensity in manufacturing by 50 per cent by 2025. This involves implementing water-efficient processes and technologies. Lululemon sources 100 per cent renewable electricity for their owned and operated facilities, significantly reducing their carbon footprint. Indeed, these initiatives haven't gone unnoticed. Lululemon has earned praise for its efforts. Transitioning to renewable energy and using recycled materials are positive steps towards a greener future for the fashion industry.
Greenwashing clouds
However, Lululemon also faces accusations of greenwashing. Critics point out that the company still relies heavily on synthetic materials like polyester, which have a significant environmental impact during production. Additionally, the vast majority of Lululemon's emissions come from their supply chain (Scope 3 emissions), which are outside their direct control. While they're encouraging suppliers to adopt sustainable practices, the effectiveness of these efforts remains to be seen.
The points of concern are:
Focus on materials: While Lululemon has made progress in using sustainable materials, critics argue that the company is not addressing other environmental impacts, such as carbon emissions from transportation and manufacturing.
Offsetting claims: Some environmental organizations have raised concerns about Lululemon's reliance on carbon offsets, suggesting that these do not adequately mitigate the company's overall carbon footprint.
Worker welfare: While Lululemon has improved labor conditions in some of its factories, critics claim that the company still falls short in ensuring fair wages and safe working environments throughout its supply chain.
An ongoing sustainability journey
Lululemon's sustainability journey is ongoing. They acknowledge the challenges and are working to address them. To truly silence greenwashing claims, they'll need to demonstrate measurable progress in reducing their supply chain impact and achieve greater transparency throughout their manufacturing processes.
Lululemon's Be Planet initiative represents a significant commitment to sustainability. While questions remain, their efforts serve as a springboard for discussions about the fashion industry's environmental responsibility. As Lululemon navigates these challenges, their path will be closely watched to see if they can truly deliver on their Be Planet promises.
The 2024 USFIA Fashion Industry Benchmarking Study offers a detailed examination of the current landscape and strategic priorities shaping US fashion companies' global operations. Released annually by the United States Fashion Industry Association (USFIA) in collaboration with the University of Delaware, this year's report unveils critical insights into how industry leaders are navigating unprecedented challenges, from economic volatility and geopolitical tensions to supply chain disruptions and regulatory complexities. The study, is a deep dive into the business landscape of 30 leading US fashion companies, paints a picture of an industry under pressure. As the fashion industry grapples with multifaceted risks and opportunities, the study provides a comprehensive analysis of key findings that underscore the sector's resilience and adaptive strategies amidst a rapidly evolving global environment.
Rising sourcing risks amidst economic uncertainty
The study reveals significant concerns among respondents regarding sourcing risks. Over half of the surveyed companies cited managing forced labor risks and navigating an uncertain US economy as their top challenges. The emergence of issues like shipping delays and geopolitical instability underscores the evolving landscape of global sourcing. Almost 45 per cent respondents rated “Protectionist trade policy agenda in the United States” as a top five business challenge, up from 15 per cent in 2023.
Sourcing diversification strategies
To mitigate these risks, US fashion companies are diversifying their sourcing bases. A notable trend is the increase in sourcing from multiple countries, with nearly 70 per cent of large companies now sourcing from 10 or more countries. This diversification aims to enhance resilience against disruptions while allowing flexibility in supply chain management strategies through 2026. Nearly 80 per cent said they plan to source from the same number or more countries till 2026, in order to reduce sourcing risks effectively.
Focus on forced labor mitigation
Addressing forced labor remains a critical priority. Companies have intensified efforts to comply with regulations like UFLPA, with an average implementation of six distinct practices to ensure supply chain transparency. Over than 90 per cent said they are “Making more efforts to map and understand our supply chain, including the sources of fibers and yarns contained in finished products.” Notably, there's been a significant increase in mapping entire supply chains, reflecting a proactive approach to risk management. And another 80 per cent said they “intentionally reduce sourcing from high-risk countries” in response to the UFLPA’s implementation.
Declining China exposure
Reflecting geopolitical tensions, a growing number of US fashion companies are reducing their dependence on China. This trend, accelerated by perceived risks and regulatory environments, sees 80 per cent respondents planning further reductions in Chinese sourcing over the next two years. Nearly 60 per cent no longer use China as their top apparel supplier in 2024.
Exploration of new sourcing opportunities
Amidst these shifts, companies are exploring new sourcing destinations. India has seen increased utilization rates, surpassing traditional Asian peers like Bangladesh. This year, more respondents reported sourcing from India (89 per cent utilization rate) than from Bangladesh (86 per cent utilization rate) for the first time since the survey began. Also, nearly 60 per cent said they plan to increase apparel sourcing from India over the next two years. Moreover, countries like Guatemala, Mexico, and Egypt are gaining traction, driven by proximity and trade agreements like CAFTA-DR and USMCA.
Importance of trade agreements
Respondents emphasized the renewal of trade agreements such as AGOA, crucial for sourcing from Sub-Saharan Africa. Overwhelming support exists for extending AGOA for another decade, highlighting its integral role in global supply chain strategies.
Recommendations and future outlook
Looking ahead, the study outlines a dynamic five-year outlook for the US fashion industry, emphasizing the need for adaptive hiring strategies and continued focus on social responsibility and sustainability. As companies navigate competitive sourcing landscapes and evolving regulatory frameworks, maintaining flexibility and proactive risk management will be paramount.
The findings also underscore the industry's trade policy priorities for 2024, advocating for clarity and support in navigating international trade dynamics. The 2024 USFIA Fashion Industry Benchmarking Study provides a comprehensive snapshot of the sector's current challenges and strategic responses. As global conditions evolve, US fashion companies are recalibrating their supply chains and operational strategies to foster resilience and sustainability in a complex global marketplace. This report serves as a crucial resource for stakeholders seeking insights into the evolving dynamics of the fashion industry and the strategic imperatives shaping its future.
Sustainability takes centerstage
Intertextile Apparel 2024 is set to reinforce its commitment to sustainability in the textile industry by launching the new Econogy Hub. The show, known for over a decade of promoting greener industry practices through its "All About Sustainability" zone, is now elevating its efforts by adopting Messe Frankfurt’s global TexpertiseEconogy concept. This rebranded and enhanced focus will include not only the Econogy Hub but also a range of eco-conscious features and innovations.
The fair will feature seven eco-focused group pavilions, three sustainable display areas, an ecoBoutique, and cutting-edge innovations showcased in the Digital Solutions Zone. These initiatives aim to highlight the latest in sustainable textile practices and products, offering attendees a comprehensive view of the industry's shift towards eco-friendliness.
Econogy hub: A new focal point
The Econogy Hub will be the heart of Intertextile Apparel's sustainability efforts. This new zone will host eco-fabric suppliers, certification providers, and other key players in the sustainable textile sector.
Key players within the Econogy Hub include industry giants like Bureau Veritas Group, specializing in testing and certification, and Cotecna Group, offering accreditation for various sustainability standards. Eastco Industries, a GOTS-certified woven fabric manufacturer, will showcase organic and recycled fabrics. And TextileGenesis, a Lectra company, is introducing an innovative traceability platform to ensure the authenticity and provenance of sustainable textiles.
Eco-focused group pavilions and display areas
The fair will also feature eco-focused group pavilions, including those from Ecocert, Hyosung, Lenzing, Lycra, Oeko-Tex, Prutex, and Sorona. These pavilions will showcase over 130 downstream suppliers, with Prutex making its debut to highlight products like Prueco, the first chemically regenerated nylon.
Sustainable display areas will be presented by Lycra, Birla Cellulose, and Idole/Mitsubishi. Meanwhile, the ecoBoutique will offer a curated selection of products from brands like Unifi and ZhangjiagangVcare, further demonstrating the industry's commitment to eco-friendly practices.
Digital solutions zone: Navigating the future of textiles
In addition to its sustainability focus, Intertextile Apparel 2024 will introduce the Digital Solutions Zone. This zone will feature cutting-edge technologies and innovations that are shaping the future of the textile industry. Key exhibitors include:
Shima Seiki: A Japanese multinational known for its industry-leading knitting machinery, design systems, and CAD/CAM systems. Their technology has applications across fashion, sportswear, healthcare, and even automotive and aeronautical sectors.
Symmpix: A premier digital solutions provider, Symmpix will showcase AI-powered fabric search, AI pattern generation, 3D visualisation tools, digital product creation, virtual catwalks, and showrooms.
Both Shima Seiki and Symmpix will also participate in the fair’s Digital Transformation Forum, presenting their innovations and engaging in panel discussions on how digital solutions are revolutionizing the textile industry.
Fringe programmes and collaborations
As part of the broader fringe programme, attendees can also look forward to presentations on technology and solutions that enhance supply chain transparency, AI-driven textile product development, and innovations in recycling. Avery Dennison will discuss integrated solutions for supply chain transparency, while Unifi will present on Repreve powered by Textile Takeback, a product that converts textile waste into recycled polyester products.
Co-organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd, the Sub-Council of Textile Industry (CCPIT), and the China Textile Information Centre, Intertextile Apparel 2024 will be held at the National Exhibition and Convention Center in Shanghai. The event will run alongside Yarn Expo Autumn, CHIC, and PH Value, providing a holistic view of the entire apparel textile value chain, with sustainability at its core.
