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Tuesday, 02 June 2026 08:28

Cotton trade under pressure as war risks and tariff chaos raise apparel costs

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Cotton trade under pressure as war risks and tariff chaos raise apparel costs

 

The global textile and apparel industry is entering a high-stakes period of volatility as the ongoing Iran war creates a divide between energy-producing and energy-consuming markets. While Asian manufacturing hubs grapple with physical constraints on energy supplies, the US market, a critical player for global retail demand, is facing a sharp escalation in operational costs. With US oil prices rising to $4.45 per gallon, the highest level in four years, the resulting pressure on discretionary income is beginning to reshape the commercial scenario for cotton-dominant goods.

Geopolitical disruptions affect global fiber value chain

The conflict in the Middle East has moved beyond a localized crisis to become a primary headwind for international trade flows. For global cotton players, the immediate concern is the impact on consumer sentiment, which has hit record lows according to the University of Michigan Index. As energy and food costs claim a larger share of the household budget, the textile sector is preparing for a shift in purchasing patterns. The current environment forces a difficult choice for retailers who must balance rising logistics and raw material costs against a consumer base that is wary of the conflict premium being added to every garment.

Retail prices touch two-decade high

The commercial reality for apparel brands is currently defined by the highest retail price levels seen since the early 2000s. US garment prices rose 1.8 per cent in February and 1 per cent in March 2026, culminating in a 3.2 per cent year-over-year increase. This upward price pressure is worsened by a chaotic legal environment surrounding import duties. Following a Supreme Court ruling that invalidated 2025 tariff hikes, the trade community is currently facing 10 percentage point increases implemented under Section 122 of the 1974 Trade Act. Although a trade court challenged these increases on May 7, they remain in effect during the appeals process, keeping import costs high for global sourcing teams.

Inventory discipline meets falling global demand

Despite macroeconomic headwinds, apparel spending remains a resilient category, though growth is clearly cooling from its 2025 peaks. Real consumer spending on clothing fell to a 3.1 per cent year-on-year growth rate in March, down from the much stronger 6.9 per cent increase seen during the same period last year. This decline is forcing a more disciplined approach to inventory management. Current data shows the clothing wholesaler inventory-to-sales ratio holding steady at 2.1, suggesting that the industry has so far avoided the massive overstock positions seen in previous cycles.

Table: Macroeconomic & industry indicators

Indicators

Q1: 2026

March 2026

April 2026

Growth in US Real GDP (Quarterly)

2.0%

-

-

Consumer Confidence Index

-

92.2

92.8

NY Nearby Cotton Price (cents/lb)

-

66.8

74.9

A Index Cotton Price (cents/lb)

-

77.2

86.4

U.S. Apparel Spending (YoY % Change)

-

3.1%

-

Garment CPI (MoM % Change)

-

1.0%

-

The table highlights mounting pressure across the global cotton and apparel value chain. US GDP growth at 2 per cent indicates a slowing economy, while weak consumer confidence reflects concerns over inflation, fuel prices and geopolitical tensions. Cotton prices rose sharply between March and April 2026, largely due to supply-chain disruptions and rising energy costs linked to the Iran conflict. At the same time, US apparel spending growth slowed to 3.1 per cent year-on-year, signalling cautious consumer behaviour. Rising garment inflation and ongoing Section 122 tariff uncertainty are further squeezing apparel margins, forcing retailers and manufacturers to adopt tighter inventory and sourcing strategies.

Section 122 tariff challenge

The recent shift by the US administration to use Section 122 of the 1974 Trade Act serves as a critical case study in modern trade volatility. After the Supreme Court ruled that the International Emergency Economic Powers Act (IEEPA) did not justify 2025 tariff hikes, authorities immediately applied a 10 percentage point increase via Section 122. While the May 7 trade court challenge offers a potential reprieve for importers, the ongoing appeals process means global supply chains must continue to price in these rare increases for the foreseeable future.