Readymade garment factories in Bangladesh have a similar story to tell when it comes to negotiating with western brands. When a sourcing department from a brand arrives to negotiate with a factory, the unit owner might point out that it practises sustainable methods of production and that the extra costs of doing so should be factored into end prices accordingly. In many cases, the sourcing department will reject such considerations outright. Sustainable production and best practice are viewed as a given.

There is a different message from the sustainability department of a brand. Such departments might require a supplier factory to implement certain sustainability practices, make them aware of the price implications of implementing the practices, and explain that these pricing issues will be dealt with by the sourcing department; often, the sustainability team is not authorised to discuss pricing.

Such a lack of coordination leads to confusion and frustration for factory owners. Brands recognise that operating in a sustainable manner goes hand in hand with business success. It is for this reason that sustainability teams have grown rapidly with brands in recent years. Even smaller brands with limited resources have invested in this and employ in-house and external sustainability consultants. The area where change needs to take place is in joining the dots.