A massive economic windfall is sitting uncollected in India’s landfills, and the key to unlocking it lies in rethinking how the country disposes of its old clothes. At a high-powered panel discussion held in Mumbai on World Environment Day to launch Mumbai's Mega Post-Consumer Waste Collection & Upcycling Initiative, industry experts revealed that building an institutionalized "circular textile economy" could unlock a staggering $9 billion in annual economic value for India.

The panel,moderated by Dr. Pankaj Kumar, National Project Coordinator at UNIDO brought together leading voices from sustainability, policy, finance, and manufacturing. They issued a collective wake-up call: textile circularity is no longer just a green "waste management" initiative; it is a critical strategy for global trade survival.

The $9 bn blind spot

The most staggering revelation came from Devanshu Ralhan, Executive Director at Grant Thomton Bharat LLP, who referenced recent national studies conducted by the Ministry of Textiles and FICCI. "The kind of value that textile-based circularity can unlock on an annual basis is close to $9 billion, if an enabling environment exists for it," Ralhan stated. "That is actually equal to the amount of exports that we do to the EU on an annual basis. It's a huge potential."

However, realizing this potential requires overcoming a massive collection failure. Currently, 45% of post-consumer textile waste in India is not even collected, heading straight to landfills instead. Ralhan argued that for India to scale up, the government and industry must collaborate over the next five years to transition from fragmented pilots to an organized nationwide infrastructure. This requires establishing decentralized, hyper-local recovery centers equipped with high-accuracy automated sorting technology, alongside regional recycling hubs.

"At this moment, the whole business model breaks because there are just two recycling hubs in India," Ralhan explained. "What you really need is smaller hubs across the country to really solve that problem."

Moving beyond "Downscaling"

India already boasts an informal waste-picking economy, but it suffers from a fundamental qualitative flaw: a lack of precise sorting. Surya Valluri, Chief Sustainability Officer at Aditya Birla Cellulosic Fibre, pointed out that India generates roughly 7 to 8 billion tons of textile waste, with 40% hitting landfills and another 30% trapped in "downscaling"—mechanically shredding quality fabrics into low-value items like mattress stuffings, sleepover rugs, and industrial wipes.

"While it is about volume, it is sorting where the economic value of the waste starts unfolding," Valluri stressed, explaining that recyclers must know exact fiber chemical blends to upcycle fabric back into high-quality yarn. "For textile recycling to succeed, it has to be very well supported by a very strong network of sorting infrastructures."

Furthermore, Valluri warned that global brands will entirely lose interest if Indian suppliers cannot achieve massive industrial volumes. "The most important thing is scalability. If you have a solution, if you have a product, if you are not in a position to scale it up, I don't think the brands will be interested."

De-Risking capital for MSMEs

The operational engines behind this massive transformation are Micro, Small, and Medium Enterprises (MSMEs). However, small waste entrepreneurs face a steep financial wall when trying to scale past pilot stages.

Saurabh Dey, Principal at Intellecap, explained that while innovative textile startups are emerging across India, they require strategic "hand-holding" via creative financial structures. Intellecap has been tackling this bottleneck through viability gap funding and co-creating specialized grants for Textile Recovery Facilities (TRFs), with an eighth facility slated to open in Surat in the coming months.

"The waste management enterprises who are interested, all recycling sectors, MSMEs, are not afraid of getting loans," Dey observed. "They are afraid about the affordability part of it... Is there a higher moratorium that's available? That flexibility is very much required by the MSMEs."

Dey urged financial institutions to blend concessional public capital with philanthropic funds to drastically drive down the cost of capital, offering repayment structures linked realistically to bumpy waste business cycles.

The Next Frontier: The "Right to Repair" and traceability

To change consumer habits and corporate mindsets, the panel highlighted two emerging disruptive forces: institutionalized garment repair and digital supply chain tracking. Naveen Sainani, Chairman of the ESG Committee at the Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI), introduced a paradigm shift for domestic clothing brands: focusing heavily on commercial upcycling hubs and structural repair.

"A very important new thing which is coming up is repair," Sainani stated. "If we tell a brand to come out with a USP saying that any consumer who buys my products, for three years I take full guarantee of any repair: imagine the kind of carbon footprints which can be saved. Any buttons, zipper, ruffle, whatever can be done." Sainani also noted that while the younger generation is structurally aware of sustainability, the movement desperately needs cultural "heroes or stars" to make upcycled, repaired, and recycled fabrics mainstream fashion statements.

Yet, even with a cultural shift, Indian manufacturers face an existential threat on the global stage if they do not digitize their operations. Global regulatory shifts, particularly in the European Union, are mandating absolute product transparency.

Aditya Birla’s Valluri emphasized that "traceability is the single most important" factor for India's textile sector to survive upcoming global audits. Because small MSMEs cannot afford heavy IT infrastructure, Valluri proposed a vital public-private intervention: "Can we provide a cloud-based storage facility for these MSMEs so that they don't have to invest on the infrastructure, but they can avail that on a lease basis and can store their primary data?"

A collective path forward

As the session drew to a close, Dr. Pankaj Kumar synthesized the panel’s insights, reiterating that a truly circular ecosystem requires a tightly woven, three-pronged strategy: forward-thinking policy interventions, flexible MSME financing, and scalable sorting innovations.

The successful launch of Mumbai’s post-consumer collection drive serves as a critical first step. However, as the panelists made clear, clearing the landfills is only half the battle—the true victory lies in building the factories, sorting centers, and financial frameworks that turn India's discarded clothes back into economic gold.

A powerhouse coalition teamed up including CMAI, Tisser, the United Nations Industrial Development Organization (UNIDO), ReFiber, O’terri, World Trade Center Mumbai, and Lions International to hold the event and the initiative . On World Environment Day, they officially launched the ‘Mega Used Clothes Collection & Upcycling Initiative’, Mumbai's first-ever mega post-consumer textile waste collection campaign.

Carhartt WIP (Work In Progress) has strengthened its footprint in the Netherlands with the inauguration of a new flagship store in Amsterdam’s historic Spiegelkwartier. Located at Nieuwe Spiegelstraat 34, this latest addition represents the brand's third standalone boutique in the capital, marking a significant step in its regional retail strategy. Situated within a district celebrated for its high-end art galleries and antique shops, the storefront occupies a former art gallery space, deliberately retaining a refined ‘white cube’ identity to honor the architectural heritage of the neighborhood while showcasing the brand's contemporary collections.

Curating immersive retail environments

Moving away from the industry-wide trend of screen-heavy, digital-centric retail design, Carhartt WIP’s recent expansion emphasizes material tactility and atmospheric depth. The new Spiegelkwartier location, designed in collaboration with Andrea Caputo and Salomée Faeh, utilizes a minimalist aesthetic that bridges the gap between the brand's industrial workwear roots and the sophisticated demands of the modern urban consumer. This experiential focus is echoed across the brand's global retail network, where physical flagships serve not merely as transactional outlets, but as cultural anchors designed to facilitate deeper community engagement through exclusive local capsules and curated environments.

Balancing global growth with regional autonomy

As Carhartt WIP continues to execute its Spring/Summer 2026 global campaign - centered on themes of transformation and tactile movement - its retail strategy remains firmly rooted in maintaining distinct, market-specific identities. By scaling its presence in key European fashion hubs, the label leverages its independent operational structure to maintain a consistent premium positioning. Industry analysts suggest that this disciplined approach to physical infrastructure, combined with a steady release cadence for seasonal and limited-edition collections, provides the brand with a resilient framework to navigate the broader challenges facing the international streetwear sector. This expansion underscores the company’s ability to successfully harmonize its blue-collar origins with a high-fashion, boutique-led distribution model.

Established in 1994 by Edwin Faeh in Switzerland, Carhartt WIP modifies classic American workwear for a global streetwear market. The brand operates over 60 international flagship stores and maintains a robust direct-to-consumer digital infrastructure. It focuses on premium menswear, womenswear, and specialized accessories, consistently emphasizing durable construction and subcultural relevance.

Brooks Brothers has officially inaugurated a premier retail destination at 900 North Michigan Avenue in Chicago, reinforcing its commitment to the American high-street landscape. The new storefront, located in the heart of the city’s renowned retail corridor, serves as a strategic touchpoint for the luxury apparel house to re-engage with its multi-generational client base. This opening is part of a deliberate expansion strategy by its operating partner, Sparc Group, to bolster the brand's visibility in high-traffic urban clusters. The boutique’s design centers on a sophisticated aesthetic, creating an immersive shopping environment that balances the brand’s storied 1818 heritage with contemporary service models.

Integrating personalized retail and heritage identity

The Michigan Avenue flagship distinguishes itself by integrating high-touch personalization services, including dedicated personal shopping suites and on-site tailoring, which are critical for attracting today’s discerning luxury consumer. By prioritizing these experiential elements, Brooks Brothers is evolving its brick-and-mortar strategy to transcend traditional inventory-led retail. The Chicago location serves as a critical model for this service-first approach, aiming to cultivate deep brand loyalty through high-frequency engagement. This physical expansion is strategically designed to complement the brand’s accelerating digital footprint, ensuring a seamless omnichannel experience that aligns with the modern standards of the ‘Everyday Luxury’ sector.

Leveraging strategic scaling for global market reach

Brooks Brothers continues to benefit from the operational expertise of Sparc Group, which manages the brand's extensive retail, wholesale, and e-commerce infrastructure. Under the broader umbrella of Authentic Brands Group (ABG) - which recently solidified its position as a global licensing leader with $38 billion in pro-forma retail sales - Brooks Brothers is positioned for sustained global scaling. As ABG pursues an aggressive growth mandate, the focus for Brooks Brothers remains on maintaining its legacy of quality while navigating a competitive market that increasingly values agility and digital integration. This successful deployment in Chicago underscores the brand's resilience and its intent to capture an increasing share of the premium apparel market across North America and beyond.

Oldest continuous clothing retailer in the US

Founded in 1818, Brooks Brothers is the oldest continuous clothing retailer in the United States, celebrated for innovations like the button-down collar shirt. Currently operated by SPARC Group and owned by Authentic Brands Group, the label focuses on premium tailored clothing and sportswear, with a global expansion strategy in place.

Dubai-based retail powerhouse BFL Group has officially expanded its Saudi Arabian network with the inauguration of a new ‘Brands For Less’ outlet at Salam Mall in Riyadh. This strategic launch in one of the capital's premier commercial corridors underscores the company’s objective to capture the burgeoning demand for high-end off-price apparel and home goods within the Kingdom. With this addition, the retailer further consolidates its position as a dominant force in the Middle Eastern value-fashion sector, effectively leveraging its signature ‘treasure-hunt’ business model to drive consistent footfall across the high-growth Saudi retail landscape.

Capitalizing on Saudi Arabia’s value retail growth

The expansion into Salam Mall is a calculated maneuver to align the brand with the evolving consumption patterns of Saudi shoppers, who are increasingly prioritizing premium value propositions. By maintaining a daily rotation of designer labels at significant discounts, the group bridges the gap between aspirational luxury and budget-conscious purchasing. Industry analysts note that this store opening serves as a pivotal touchpoint for the group's broader mandate to enhance its regional market share through high-visibility, Tier-1 mall placements.

This physical scaling is complemented by the group's ongoing commitment to digital transformation and localized logistics, ensuring that the brand maintains operational agility in a highly competitive retail environment.

Leveraging strategic synergies for regional growth

BFL Group’s expansion momentum remains supported by its landmark strategic partnership with global off-price giant TJX Companies, which acquired a 35 per cent stake in the business. This institutional backing has provided the necessary capital and operational insights to accelerate the group’s footprint across the GCC and beyond. As BFL Group continues to scale, the integration of advanced data analytics and e-commerce enhancements remains central to its long-term strategy of delivering a seamless omnichannel experience. By combining its proven off-price sourcing capabilities with a growing network of physical flagships, the company is well-positioned to navigate the complexities of the Saudi retail sector and capture a larger segment of the regional fashion wallet.

Headquartered in Dubai, BFL Group is a leading off-price retailer specializing in designer fashion, home decor, and lifestyle goods. Founded in 1996 in Lebanon, the company operates over 100 stores across the Middle East and Southeast Asia. BFL Group is currently scaling its physical and digital retail presence globally.

Adidas has significantly expanded its physical retail presence in Central Europe with the inauguration of a new large-format flagship store in the PlusCity shopping center, located in Pasching, Austria. Spanning 600 sq m, the retail space is positioned within one of Austria’s most frequented commercial hubs, reflecting the sportswear giant’s strategic focus on high-traffic, premium environments. This opening is part of a broader commitment to enhancing direct-to-consumer (DTC) touchpoints, ensuring that the brand’s expansive catalog - ranging from specialized running gear to high-fashion streetwear - is accessible in a refined, immersive setting ahead of major global sporting events.

Advancing DTC strategy through experiential environments

The new Pasching storefront utilizes an advanced interior design language characterized by precision lighting and optimized product displays, intended to elevate the customer experience beyond traditional transaction-based retail. By integrating a dedicated local advisory team,

Adidas aims to foster deep regional engagement, allowing the brand to showcase its technical innovations and lifestyle collections with higher efficacy. This emphasis on physical space complements the company’s strong global DTC momentum, which saw a 22 per cent sell-out growth in Q1, FY26. These branded environments serve as crucial anchors for consumers, bridging the gap between digital discovery and in-store sensory testing.

Sustaining operational momentum in a volatile market

This retail expansion follows a robust start to the FY26 for Adidas, with the group reporting a 14 per cent increase in currency-neutral revenue, reaching €6.6 billion in the first quarter. Despite ongoing macroeconomic volatility and currency headwinds, the brand has demonstrated significant operational leverage, with operating profit rising 16 per cent to €705 million. As the company continues to maintain a disciplined approach to inventory management and wholesale distribution, these strategically selected flagship stores provide a hedge against market fragmentation, ensuring that the brand retains control over its pricing and premium positioning.

Looking forward, the company maintains a cautious yet optimistic full-year outlook, targeting an

operating profit of approximately €2.3 billion for 2026.

Expanding high-value retail

Adidas is a Germany-based global leader in sportswear, manufacturing performance-driven athletic footwear and lifestyle apparel. The company operates across 160 countries with an extensive global retail network. Driven by continuous innovation in material science and design, Adidas is currently focusing on premiumizing its direct-to-consumer channels and expanding high-value physical retail.

Vancouver-based ‘Everyday Luxury’ retailer, Aritzia has officially entered the Missouri market with the opening of a 10,000-sq-ft flagship boutique at Plaza Frontenac in St Louis. This high-profile launch marks a tactical progression in the company's aggressive US growth strategy, which has become the primary catalyst for its recent revenue surge. By securing a footprint in one of the Midwest’s premier luxury shopping destinations, Aritzia aims to consolidate its presence in the American interior, leveraging the location’s high-income demographic to deepen brand penetration and support its expanding omnichannel ecosystem.

Scaling the everyday luxury model

The St. Louis opening is a key indicator of Aritzia’s broader retail mandate to increase its physical footprint by 12 to 13 boutiques globally during FY27, with the majority of these slated for the United States. Following a record-breaking FY26, which saw the company achieve $3.7 billion in net revenue - a 35 per cent Y-o-Y increase - management is prioritizing large-format flagships that offer personalized styling services and immersive interior design. These physical touchpoints serve as experiential anchors, designed to convert digital traffic into high-value, in-store client relationships and amplify the brand’s ‘Everyday Luxury’ positioning in untapped regional territories.

Driving record revenue through operational excellence

Aritzia’s growth remains underpinned by rigorous inventory management and a high-performance boutique model. Despite broader macroeconomic headwinds, the brand’s U.S. segment demonstrated exceptional vitality, with U.S. net revenue growing by 38% in the most recent fiscal period. Looking toward fiscal 2027, the company forecasts continued growth, targeting annual net revenue between $4.4 billion and $4.6 billion. By maintaining a disciplined cadence of new boutique openings and repositioning existing locations, Aritzia is effectively positioning itself to capture a larger share of the competitive North American fashion market while sustaining strong operating margins.

Aritzia is a vertically integrated design house offering premium women’s fashion, including apparel and accessories, under brands such as Wilfred, Babaton, and Tna. Founded in 1984, it operates over 140 boutiques across North America. The company is currently executing a growth plan focused on geographic expansion and digital acceleration. 

Italian luxury powerhouse Prada has taken a definitive step into the aerospace sector, unveiling the Liquid Cooling and Ventilation Garment (LCVG) designed for NASA’s upcoming Artemis lunar missions. Developed in partnership with Houston-based Axiom Space, the garment serves as the critical inner layer of the Axiom Extravehicular Mobility Unit (AxEMU) spacesuit. Rather than a purely aesthetic endeavor, the collaboration leverages Prada’s deep-seated expertise in advanced textile engineering, material science, and precision patternmaking - capabilities honed through decades of high-performance design in competitive sailing and sportswear.

Engineering life support through advanced textiles

The LCVG acts as the primary thermal regulation system, essential for protecting astronauts during physically demanding lunar spacewalks lasting up to eight hours. The garment features an intricate network of specialized tubes that circulate chilled water across major muscle groups, efficiently extracting metabolic heat. A key technical innovation is the inclusion of a fully redundant cooling circuit, a backup system that ensures thermal stability even if the primary loop fails. Beyond temperature control, the garment manages ventilation by circulating fresh oxygen and scrubbing exhaled carbon dioxide, maintaining a stable life-support environment within the harsh, unpredictable conditions of the lunar South Pole.

Redefining cross-industry space collaboration

The integration of a luxury fashion house into mission-critical aerospace hardware signals a departure from traditional, government-centric procurement. Axiom Space officials emphasize that the partnership is a practical engineering alliance, focusing on ergonomic comfort and material durability in extreme thermal environments. By utilizing 3D modeling and advanced knitting techniques, the team has created a garment that fits seamlessly beneath the outer spacesuit, enhancing astronaut mobility. This collaboration underscores a broader trend where space exploration increasingly integrates specialized knowledge from non-traditional sectors to accelerate innovation, ensuring that human-grade protection can meet the rigors of long-duration missions to the Moon and beyond.

Global leader in luxury fashion

Prada Group is a global leader in luxury fashion, renowned for its design, manufacturing, and material innovation. The company manages iconic brands including Prada, Miu Miu, and Church’s. It focuses on integrating high-performance technical fabrics into luxury retail, aiming for sustainable growth and pioneering unconventional, cross-industry design partnerships.

Ralph Lauren is aggressively expanding its presence in France, targeting premier locations from the Champs-Élysées in Paris to the coastal luxury hub of Saint-Tropez. This retail acceleration serves as a cornerstone of the company’s ‘Next Great Chapter: Accelerate’ strategy, which prioritizes the expansion of high-end direct-to-consumer (DTC) channels and flagships. By securing high-visibility real estate in these critical luxury centers, Ralph Lauren aims to cultivate deeper brand equity and cater to a growing demographic of affluent international travelers and local clientele, moving firmly away from its legacy reliance on volume-driven wholesale distribution.

Curating a heritage luxury experience

The French retail push reflects a broader shift toward a more curated, luxury-centric distribution model. With DTC revenue now comprising approximately 65 per cent of its total global sales, Ralph Lauren is investing in experiential flagships that blend physical engagement with digital precision. In Paris, the brand’s focus is on showcasing its most premium offerings—including the Purple Label and the Ralph Lauren Collection - to solidify its identity as a top-tier heritage house. This emphasis on store productivity has already yielded tangible results globally, with renovated flagships witnessing over 10 per cent gains in store productivity, a metric the company aims to replicate in its newest European ventures.

Driving margin growth through operational discipline

The brand’s expansion is supported by sophisticated operational tailwinds, including AI-driven demand forecasting and RFID-enabled supply chain transparency. These technologies have improved inventory turnover by approximately 15 per cent, successfully mitigating the risk of end-of-season markdowns and protecting full-price sell-through margins. Coming off a strong FY26, during which total revenue surpassed $8 billion for the first time, Ralph Lauren is well-positioned to balance expansion costs with its long-term target of achieving mid-teens operating margins by fiscal 2027. This disciplined approach to growth ensures the brand remains resilient in the face of macroeconomic fluctuations while capturing a larger share of the global luxury market.

A global leader in luxury lifestyle apparel

Ralph Lauren Corporation is a global leader in luxury lifestyle apparel, accessories, home furnishings, and hospitality. Through its ‘Next Great Chapter: Accelerate’ plan, the company focuses on premiumization, digital-physical retail integration, and expansion in high-value global luxury cities, supported by a long-standing history of classic American design and innovation. 

G-III Apparel Group has reported robust financial performance for FY27, ending April 30, 2026, with net income increasing to $66.5 million from $7.8 million in the same period last year. This significant uplift, which surpassed market expectations, was largely boosted by a $102.7 million pre-tax benefit stemming from the expected recovery of previously incurred tariffs. Excluding this non-recurring gain, the company demonstrated operational resilience, maintaining healthy full-price selling momentum across its core brand portfolio. While net sales of $536 million reflected an 8 per cent Y-o-Y decline  - largely due to the planned exit from the Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger licensed businesses - the company’s strategic shift toward its owned and high-growth brands continues to yield margin expansion.

Accelerating the transformation into a brand-led powerhouse

The organization is actively refining its long-term growth trajectory through the acquisition of the iconic Marc Jacobs brand, a move designed to diversify its footprint and reduce reliance on third-party licensing. Morris Goldfarb, Chairman and CEO, indicates, this acquisition represents a fundamental evolution for the company, stating, Marc Jacobs is one of the most influential brands in fashion, and we see tremendous opportunity to build on its strong foundation and drive long-term growth across categories, channels, and geographies. By prioritizing its owned assets, including DKNY, Donna Karan, and Karl Lagerfeld, G-III is successfully replacing lost licensed-brand volume with higher-margin, proprietary retail opportunities.

Raising fiscal outlook to reflect operational resilience

Reflecting increased confidence in its current strategy, G-III has upwardly revised its earnings guidance for fiscal year 2027. The company now anticipates net income in the range of $171 million to $175 million, a substantial improvement from its previous forecast. The management is also targeting $25 million in run-rate cost savings by FY28 to further streamline operational efficiency. Despite facing a dynamic global macroeconomic environment and ongoing tariff uncertainties, G-III maintains a strong balance sheet with $394.2 million in cash and cash equivalents, providing the necessary liquidity to continue investing in marketing, brand-building, and potential future acquisitions.

A global fashion powerhouse

G-III Apparel Group is a global fashion powerhouse that designs, sources, and markets an extensive portfolio of owned and licensed apparel, footwear, and accessories. Key brands include DKNY, Donna Karan, and Karl Lagerfeld. The company is currently executing a strategic transformation to become a brand-led global retail leader.

Grasim Industries has greenlit a Rs 3,094 crore capital expenditure to expand its Lyocell fibre production capacity at Harihar, Karnataka, signaling a decisive move to align with the global apparel industry’s migration toward high-performance, circular materials. Involving addition of 110,000 tons per annum (TPA) of capacity, the project will be executed in two equal phases, with commissioning scheduled for 2028 and 2030. This initiative follows an ongoing 55,000 TPA construction project, ultimately positioning the Harihar site as one of the world's largest hubs for Lyocell - a third-generation cellulosic fibre renowned for its breathability, durability, and low-impact, closed-loop manufacturing process.

Securing feedstock for global apparel retail

The expansion is a direct response to the mounting pressure on fashion retailers to eliminate high-emission synthetics from their supply chains. With global Lyocell demand projected to sustain a steady growth trajectory - supported by the fibre’s versatility across luxury apparel, medical textiles, and activewear - Grasim aims to capture significant market share. "This investment reflects our intent to invest ahead of the curve in sectors that define India's future competitiveness, notes Kumar Mangalam Birla, Chairman, Aditya Birla Group . By scaling these specialized inputs, the company intends to increase the specialty segment’s share to 35 per cent of its total portfolio by 2030, directly serving global brands seeking verified, sustainable feedstock for their collections.

Balancing operational efficiency and market volatility

While the expansion underlines a long-term growth thesis, Grasim continues to manage the immediate realities of the textile sector. The company reported a 97 per cent capacity utilization rate in FY26, showcasing strong operational throughput despite ongoing margin pressures from global commodity pricing. The Harihar site is currently undergoing technology upgrades, including a new bleach plant and modernized evaporation systems, to further reduce freshwater consumption and chemical waste. Funded through a strategic mix of internal accruals and debt, this multi-phase development ensures that the company remains insulated from short-term market fluctuations while building the industrial infrastructure necessary to exceed 1 million TPA in total cellulosic fiber capacity by the end of the decade.

A global leader in MMCF and textiles

Grasim Industries, an Aditya Birla Group flagship, is a global leader in Man-Made Cellulosic Fibres (MMCF), chemicals, and textiles. It provides essential raw materials to the global fashion and apparel markets. The company focuses on scaling sustainable, high-value specialty fibres to support its 2030 premium product targets.